Justerinis Buyers Blog

Southwold 2012

2012-01-24T13:10:00.001Z

The great and the good of the wine trade (and yours truly) recently descended upon the little Suffolk seaside town of Southwold for yet another epic blind tasting.

This year was the turn of the 2008s. Initially tasted in the spring of 2009 in the wake of Lehman Brothers’ collapse and the first credit crunch, some merchants boycotted the tastings altogether. J&B made the annual pilgrimage, and with certain caveats, we liked what we saw. It was evident that the estates with the best terroir and the deepest pockets fared best. Some lesser properties displayed green notes - not unsurprising given the cool growing season.

Angelus released before Easter and the First Growths released soon after at very attractive prices. This gave the campaign some impetus, but it was when Robert Parker raved about the wines that the campaign really took off. In retrospect, Big Bob was a little over zealous; the two subsequent vintages, which can both stake claims to being potential vintages of the century, rather overshadowed the 2008s, so the downgrades came as no surprise.

Over the three days we tasted over 250 wines by commune. I am not permitted to disclose average or other individual’s scores, but I can disclose by own thoughts, so what follows is my personal view from the tasting and is not necessarily the consensus of the group. 2008 is a very mixed bag. There are many highlights, particularly in the northern Medoc and Pomerol. Wines that showed extremely well for me included: Cos d’Estournel, Montrose, Calon Segur, Lafite, Mouton, Lynch Bages, Pontet Canet, Pichon Lalande, Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Poyferre, Langoa and Leoville Barton, Ducru Beaucaillou, Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, Palmer, Margaux, Haut Brion, La Mission Haut Brion, Carmes Haut Brion, Domaine de Chevalier, Malartic Lagraviere, Le Pin, Petrus, Eglise Clinet, VCC, Evangile, Providence, La Fleur Petrus, Hosanna, Cheval Blanc and Tertre Roteboeuf. Particular mention should go to Angelus and Pichon Baron, both were real over-performers.

As to the character of the wines, there were a few changes and themes. I noticed a sweeter character to the fruit in the flights of St Estephes and St Juliens, however, this was not evident in the Pauillac flights. I have no evidence, but estates are permitted to add up to 15% of the final blend from other vintages and there was a decidedly 2009 style to some of these... They will no doubt give much early drinking pleasure. The top wines from the Medoc are more structured than I remember. This could be a result of press wine added to the blend. Tannins are ripe, but they are big and solid and acidities are high. This should bode well for long keeping, but one required a bit of stamina to taste through some of these flights (maybe I’ve just gone soft after the 2009s and 2010s...).

After the palate-pounding two days, we tasted a couple of flights of Sauternes to finish. The first flight of less well known estates didn’t really do much for me. The final flight including the likes of Yquem, Climens and de Fargues was considerably more interesting. It was a tiny crop, I believe yields were as low as 3hl/ha and most of the fruit came from the first two picks as latter tries encountered problems with frost. Yquem, Suduiraut and Guiraud topped my list; all displayed ample sweetness, lovely precision, pure flavours and great balance. It is a somewhat overlooked Sauternes vintage, but don’t dismiss the 2008s, these are charming wines.

Un Mot: Burgundy 2010 (part two)

2012-01-23T13:09:00.001Z

The questioning continues...

Un Mot: Burgundy 2010 (part one)

2012-01-18T14:47:00.000Z

In which we ask some of Burgundy's greatest wine makers the impossible question, namely, can you sum up your 2010s with a single word? Part two to follow...

Mouton Rothschild unveils their 2009 label.

2011-12-08T09:41:00.009Z

British artist Anish Kapoor has been added to the list of modern artists, including: Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Marc Chagall, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud to be commissioned to produce a work for the Mouton Rothschild label. Mr Kapoor was born in Mumbai in 1954, but has resided in the UK since 1972. He won the Turner Prize in 1991, but is probably best known by Londoners for his 2002 commission, Marsyas, which filled the vast Turbine Hall at the Tate Modern.

Anish Kapoor is described as being ‘renowned for his enigmatic sculptural forms that permeate physical and psychological space. Kapoor's inventiveness and versatility have resulted in works ranging from powdered pigment sculptures and site-specific interventions on wall or floor, to gigantic installations both in and outdoors. Throughout, he has explored what he sees as deep-rooted metaphysical polarities: presence and absence, being and non-being, place and non-place and the solid and the intangible’. http://www.tate.org.uk/

The Chateau’s press release described the commission as, ‘at once austere and flamboyant, the gouache he has created for Mouton Rothschild 2009 expresses the fertile thrust of plant life, the result of an intense encounter between matter and light’.

Burgundy 2008 - Burgfest (cont): Clos Vougeot and Gevrey Chambertin

2011-11-30T14:22:00.001Z

CLOS VOUGEOT

Two full flights of Clos Vougeot were tasted, 17 wines in total. What we saw was a little inconsistent with many falling short of their Grand Cru status. The easy winner on the day was the stellar Anne Gros example - masculine, broad shouldered packed with blueberry and bramble, real Grand Cru depth of fruit, densely textured with outstanding length and complexity . Other good Clos Vougeots were also from members of the Gros family, Micheal and Bernard and negocient Jadot.

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

To cover the Premieres and Grand Crus of Gevrey ten flights were tasted. In no other village is the interpretation of the same terroirs so diverse. The modernist black coloured, high extract styles were still represented but with fewer extreme examples than in previous years. On the other hand, whole bunch ( with stalks ) fermentation is becoming widespread, throwing in another dimension for the tasting team to take into account.

The lower lying 1er Crus were covered in two flights. They as a group were not as exiting as those from further up the slopes but did include some outstandingly good wines. Amongst them were Corbeaux, Denis Bachelet; fresh, elegant yet with explosive sweet fruit tannins. Cherbaudes, Louis Boillot; refined, beautifully defined dark berry fruits yet powerful long finish. Clos du Fonteny, Bruno Clair; sweet spice and herbs, exquisitely poised with big structure and a great future ahead.

Two flights from the higher 1er crus showed off the qualities of the vintage to a consistently higher degree. The Clos St. Jacques' of Rousseau and Clair have sensual qualities yet density of fruit and supreme complex tannins. The Cazetier, Faiveley; restrained, elegant and all on pleasure and the Arnaud Mortet, Champeaux; bursting with blackberry and sloe. It packs quite a punch.

The next flight included Charmes, Mazoyeres, Chapelle, Griotte, Mazis and Ruchottes. Non of them hit the heights of the previous flight of the ariere Cote (Cazetiers + Clos St Jacques) with the best just falling short. Unsuprisingly the Charmes of Rousseau and Denis Bachelet were outstandingly good, taut, mineral with great purity and length of flavour. Also noteworthy was the Ruchottes of Christophe Roumier; silky textured with exquisite 'petit fruits 'that evolved beautifully on the palate.

The Latricieres flight was impressive, the ripeness of the vintage combining admirably with the mineral edgy style of the appellation. Drouhin Laroze has made a wonderfully seductive example, sweet fruits , mineral complexity - pure pleasure. Another fine wine from Faiveley endorsed the revival of this Domaine, dark berry fruits and fine tannins ensuring elegance.

A flight of 6 Clos de Beze and 8 Chambertin followed. The overall quality was brilliant, many receiving 92+ scores from me. The complexity of ripe fruits , intensity of flavours and exquisit fine firm tannins, when combined, make for superb Grand Crus. If anything the flight of Beze had the edge, showing rich textures and sweeter plush fruits compared with the more structured drier Chambertins. The most striking example being the fabulous Beze of Rousseau which received my top mark overshadowing the more tannic solid Chambertin. Indeed the Beze flight included excellent examples from Perot Minot, Bruno Clair, Faiveley, and Drouhin Laroze.

Burgundy 2010 - Small is Beautiful

2011-11-10T21:40:00.008Z

Burgundy may still be thick with fog, but there is something crystal clear here - 2010 is an excellent vintage.

I write this with one more tasting to go early tomorrow (friday) morning having spent two weeks here seeing circa 45 Domaines and tasting over 200 wines. Thats alot, but the fatigue is not too bad, in fact I even feel a gentle spring in the step. These have simply been easy, joyous wines to taste, red and white, which is amazing considering their concentration and racy acidities.

It largely all began with frost (for some) and uneven flowering (for all.) The resulting crop was to be one of the smallest on record for many, equalling that of 2003. A good thing, too, in the end, as the small crop ripened brilliantly despite the gloomy summer. Harvest was a good three weeks later than in 2009, fine but cool weather permitted growers the patience to wait for the perfect picking date. That said, towards the end of the harvest, some Chardonnay growers had to hurry as a dry electric storm suddenly accelerating ripening rapidly. The Reds are concentrated, they exhibit great freshness and high acidities, which you barely notice so smothered are they in pure ripe fruit. The tannins are present and fortifying but are so smooth that they do not jar. These are seamless, almost weightless wines of sheer brilliance and balance. The vintage might not have the out and out concentration of 2005, but they should be long-lived nonetheless and despite being the polar opposite of the lovely 2009, it is every bit its equal (and, for some, better!) Cote d'or whites are concentrated, very concentrated. Their acidities are as racy as those of 2007 but with a great deal more richness and depth. In both colours 2010 should go down as an absolute classic.

Such was the consistency accross the region's (top) growers it is very hard to pick out highlights. Those that immediately come to mind are Cecile Tremblay, Marquis d'Angerville, Follin-Arbelet, Chevillon, Sauzet, Bachelet Monnot, Liger Belair, Grivot, Bruno Clair, Rousseau, Roumier, Mugnier and not least Denis Mortet - young Arnaud Mortet has made a magnificent range that firmly puts him in the top tier of Burgundy producers.

For Reds, there seems to be no particular pattern save that I tasted many excellent wines from Clos de Vougeot. There were many excellent whites, too, but Corton Charlemagnes really stood out for their brilliance and consistency.

Keep an eye on the blog over the coming month for the growers views on the vintage in "un mot," a video to be posted here soon.

Triple Zero, Jacky Blot - Jancis Robinson's Wine of the Week

2011-10-21T17:41:00.004+01:00

We love Jacky Blot's wines. From his superb reds at Domaine de la Butte, to his stunningly good value whites at Domaine de le Taille aux Loups, his wines always seem to hit the spot. A bottle of Remus Plus 2007 drunk just this Tuesday was stunningly good for a wine of that price and seemed, to all those that drank it, to have plenty of gas in the tank for future ageing.

Jancis' wine of the week this week is Jacky's Fizz, Triple Zero. It's a top drop and offers typically great value from this pillar of the Loire. We have stock in the warehouse ready for immediate delivery.

To read the full article on Jancis's site click here

Krug - quality obsessed and please don't mention the oak!

2011-10-18T17:01:00.003+01:00

Last week's visit to Krug was an enlightening and inspiring trip.
I am very sensitive to the silver-tongued and often very skillfull marketing speak of many Grand Marque Champagne houses. Together with marketing smoke and mirrors, their skill lies also in blending and producing Champagnes that meet people's expectations with impressive consistency. Krug, however, are supposed to be a little different and, reassuringly, my trip confirmed exactly that. They may be owned by a giant of the luxury goods industry but it has been sensitively kept in family hands, with Olivier Krug at the helm. Talking passionately about the vineyards in the middle of a visit to Krug Clos du Mesnil, Olivier made the close connection of the Krug family to the vines and their terroirs very clear.

A tour of the cellars revealed the incredible parts that can make up Grand Cuvee. First stop in the winery is the barrel room, where all Krug undergoes the primary fermentation. These are old barrels so the aim is not to bring any direct oak flavour or "fat" to the wines, Olivier stressed, they are more a function of Krug's painstaking plot by plot approach to harvest and vinifcation. These smaller vessels also add complexity by allowing a certain limited amount of oxygen contact. This approach is further highlighted by the battery of micro steel tanks in the cuverie. The oldest single wine there being a 16 yo parcel of Grand Cru Bouzy, waiting for its call to the Grand Cuvee stage.

Apart from tasting a fascinating Grand Cuvee from bottle and magnum, which as of next year will have id codes on the back of each bottle from which you can tell disgorgement date, we were also introduced to the 2000 vintage of Krug and Clos Mesnil. The former was stylish, impressive, rich but composed and already very user friendly now but with the guts to suggest a good ageing potential, the latter was a sheer delight - the mineral, chalk and lemon-stuffed green olive character of Clos Mesnil is so strong and ever present in all of its wines. The 2000 has this in spades whilst showing the round, pliable character of the vintage. Another example of Krug's fastidious approach to quality was the 1999 Clos du Mesnil, having disgorged it they took a very late decision not to release it. Its a good drop but Krug just simply did not feel it had the requisite Clos du Mesnil character to warrant an official release.

The final piece de resistance was the Clos d'Ambonnay 1998, an excellent red fruited Champagne of great intensity and, no doubt, with a price tag to match!

A room full of primo uomos and divas (the wines, not the merchants...)

2011-10-18T15:38:00.000+01:00

Yes, it is that time of year again when the Bordeaux UGC company rolls into London for a short residency at the Royal Opera House. This year was the turn of the magnificent 2009 vintage, now in bottle*. From barrel the now fabled 2009s seduced us with unerring, sumptuous textures, precision, decadence and dare we say it, sex appeal. Simply, they were like nothing else we had tasted from Bordeaux – so could they live up to our expectations?

As one would expect, with another year or more in barrel, there is more oak and more tannin in evidence. In fact, when tasted from barrel, these `09s were so svelte one almost couldn’t detect any tannins; this is not the case now. The tannins are beautifully ripe, but provide much needed backbone to help cellaring. Generally, the wines are slightly more subdued than they were from barrel, but this is obviously a very special, very opulent vintage.

It was fitting that in the setting of the ROH, there should be so many prima donnas. Nearly every wine was fighting for centre stage. La Conseillante, Pichon Lalande, Leoville Barton, Leoville Poyferre, Rauzan Segla, Brane Cantenac, Saint Pierre, Larcis Ducasse, Smith Haut Lafitte, Domaine de Chevalier, Haut Bailly, Malartic Lagraviere, Grand Puy Lacoste and Lynch Bages put in show stopping performances. But this is a vintage of such quality that many of the lesser names have also excelled. There are fantastic values from the likes of Chasse Spleen, Poujeaux, Picque Caillou, Beaumont, Greysac, Durfort Vivens and Gloria.

Although, the plaudits quite rightly go to the reds, 2009 has produced some exceptional Sauternes. Standouts included Climens, Doisy Vedrines and Doisy Daëne.

*One sample to my knowledge was from barrel.

Burgundy 2008: Burgfest (cont) Corton & Nuits St Georges

2011-10-11T10:38:00.001+01:00

CORTON

When tasting Corton at such events it’s worth rememberingthat the Hill of Corton lies several kilometres north of Beaune whereas Pommardand Volnay are equidistant south. In terms of Burgundy these terroirs are polesapart. The two flights of Corton were astep up in both quality and uniformity. The slightly later harvesting hadresulted in riper more concentrated wines.

Head of the pack of two flights was the Clos du Roi fromEtienne de Montille; high toned bitter sweet red fruits and suave fruitytannins. Only a half point behind were the two Bressandes of Tollot Beaut;damson and bramble fruits and long fine grained tannins and Follin Arbelet;intense berry fruits, graceful, mineral and complex. Also showing great improvement over previousyears was the Corton Clos des Corton from Faiveley, youthful and showing slightreduction it nevertheless has potential.

The Cotes de Nuits

The later harvest should have given all the 1er and GrandCrus an advantage in allowing full phenolic ripeness and greater concentrationof juice. However as will be evident from following tasting notes, in somevillages the vinyeards higher up the Cote benefited more than some on the lowerslopes.

NUITS ST GEORGES

The diverse terroirs of Nuits St Georges were given duerespect in that we tasted five flights. Make no mistake, this is the mostimproved village of the Cotes de Nuits overthe last five years lead by Robert Chevillon and the revival of Gouges as wellas the parts played by some of the Vosne Domaines; Cathiard, Meo Camuzet,Grivot and Comte Liger Belair.

First up were the Clos from the most southerly vineyardsand the vast improvement in the quality of the Clos de La Marechale in thehands of owner Freddy Mugnier. Brooding blackthorn and smoky minerals, silkytextured yet powerful and explosive - a2008 of great potential. It easily took the laurels.

Two flights of the 1er Crus north of the town of Nuits StGeorges ( Vosne side) revealed an overallhigh quality of finesse, elegance, minerality and purity. Sharing the highest marks were the Murgers ofSylvain Cathiard; Intense yet powerful, full of old vine complexity and lengthof pure pinot flavour; and the Cras of Comte Liger Belair; Beautiful bright purplecolour, blackthorn and damson, density and silky textured tannins. Others thatshone were an aristocratic Murgers, Moe Camuzet and a deep structured Cras fromLamarche.

My notes at this stage show that until the 3rd flight ofNuits we experienced no cork taint but more new oak than normal due to the lowyield against pre ordered new barrels.

The final two flights of Nuits from the central vineyards(south of the town) were lit up by many great wines with the density of lowyields to cover the high acidity. Neckand Neck for top honours were the Vaucrains of Gouges; all on power, depth offruit and length of flavour and the Cailles of Robert Chevillon; sweetseductive , sumptuous tannins and wonderful mineral complexity. Other fabulousexamples included a powerful and explosive Les St Georges, Henri Gouges, a racyPoret St Georges from Faiveley and delectable Pruliers, Chevillon.

Next: Clos Vougeot , Gevrey...

Harvest at Château Providence

2011-10-10T17:09:00.001+01:00

Château Providence is one of the jewels in the J&B portfolio. This JP Moueix owned estate at the heart of the plateau in Pomerol hit the ground running in 2005 and has since cemented its place amongst the elite estates in the appellation. Edouard Moueix has kindly written a harvest report and his preliminary thoughts about the latest vintage.

'2011 has been the vintage of extremes, summer conditions in spring, two heat waves at the end of June and August, with a cool and overcast summer. It is actually the vines that suffered more than the fruit. We had to spend a lot of time in the vineyard to reduce the number of clusters and therefore the stress on the vines.

We harvested Providence in two days, the young vines and more gravelly parcels on September 10, and the older vines on September 13. The date of the harvest was of course decided according to analyses run from end of August on, but also by tasting the berries. This year even if the numbers were excellent on paper, we had to be extra patient for the fruit to gain a certain aromatic complexity. The normal date according to the calculations from the day of mid-flowering should have been August the 29th.

The weather on these two days was warm and sunny. Despite the good presentation of the fruit, we have used the new optical sorting table, allowing only the best berries to enter the cellars.

We let the fermentations start after two days of maceration, and kept the temperatures quite low because of the high level of potential alcohol. The tanks have now been drained and the wine is about to start its malolactic fermentation. The style is deep and muscular, with notes of dark fruit and cocoa.

I look forward to presenting the first samples in April'.

Merchant vs Journo

2011-10-07T12:09:00.003+01:00

Or is it the power of red cords taking on the beige chino? Either way, think its pretty clear who was ahead in the Bordeaux 2010 EP Stamina Stakes...

Krug dinner

2011-10-04T12:15:00.001+01:00

Last week, our very own Georgina Crawley and guests took over the exclusive Krug Room at the Dorchester for an evening of fine dining and plenty of slurping. Chef, Henry Brosi designed a menu around the four Krug cuvees on tasting: Grande Cuvee, Vintage 1998, Collection 1989 and Rose.

A truly gourmand evening was enjoyed by all. Hopefully the menu below will whet your appetite and give you some ideas for Champagne and food matching.

Amuse bouche

Krug Grande Cuvee

Isle of Mull scallops with poached lobster with cauliflower puree, apricot and key lime coriander nage

Krug Vintage 1998

Confit of Sea Bass with ginger and parsley crust, caper beurre blanc

Krug Collection 1989

Orange and grapefruit with passion fruit sorbet and espuma

Lemon grass infused brûlée and red berries, honey and apple blossom

Krug Rose

Video: Clerico's shifting focus...

2011-09-28T15:18:00.000+01:00

Not so long ago, Luciano Racca, from Domenico Clerico, cameto see us. It was a short while before we started what has become our biggestand most successful Italian En Primeurcampaign to date. Having tasted thewhole gamut, it is now quite clear that the 2007s across Piedmont are nothingshort of sublime. They combine intense fruit profiles with high-toned aromatics,sumptuous ripe tannic structures with fresh acidities. They really do haveeverything going for them, and anyone with a serious interest in fine wine tolay down, Barolo lover or not, should probably have at least one case in theircellar. (yes I know we are bound to say that, but in all honesty, it is true!)

Domenico Clerico's wines have long enchanted us. They have acertain magic and are undoubtedly some of the most characterful in all ofPiedmont. Indeed they share this in common with their maker. They have alwaysappealed to lovers of big bold Barolo, parading huge fruit profiles andluscious textures, whilst never losing their all important sense of place; forall the inherent `Clerico` style to the wines, they never seem to lose theirsense of terroir.

His newest releases, the 2007 Barolos, are I suspect thebest I have tasted at this estate. There appears to be all of the characterthat these wines are known for, but perhaps a greater sense of elegance and hightonedfruit. And this refers to the Barberasand Dolcettos as well. In this shortvideo, we asked Luciano what, if anything, might be changing at this great Baroloestate.

Burgfest 2008 Vintage: Beaune, Volnay & Pommard

2011-09-28T11:07:00.001+01:00

In a secluded location in Beaune over the late August bank holiday the most recently bottled vintage of Pinot Noir was put under the microscope. The UK's top Burgundy buyers plus specialist Burgundy wine writers and publishers Clive Coates and Neil Beckett made up a select team of nine tasters. A high sense of high anticipation proceeded the blind tasting of the 2008 vintage (bottled some 6-10 months earlier), with a line up including over 300 Premiere and Grand Cru Pinot Noirs from the Cote d'Or's top Domaines and Negociants.

The wines were tasted in flights village by village over three days, 1er Crus followed by Grand Crus.

Earliest impressions of the 2008 vintage are one of consistent freshness and a pure expression of Pinot Noir. Wines defined by a cooler vintage that had ample acidity, concentrated by cool north winds and bought to perfect ripeness by warm cloudless days and cool nights

Over the coming weeks I shall be giving a more detailed analysis of each of the appellations tasted. To begin with, Beaune, Volnay and Pommard.

BEAUNE

Three flights of Beaunes kicked off the tasting. The sandy soils of Beaune inevitably result in precocious styles and 2008 Pinots were for the most part no exception. This was predominantly a flight of easy well balanced wines with pure racy Pinot definition. My pick of the first flight was the most structured wine of the appellation, Clos des Mouches from Joseph Drouhin. Packed with firm yet explosive dark fruits and exquisite balance, it will benefit with a further five year's cellaring. Also very pleasing were the pair of Tollot Beaut Beaunes; Clos de Roi, polished and seductive and Greves, all dark red berries, lovely fruit and oak tannins.

VOLNAY

There are some senior Domaines based in Volnay making superb Pinot Noirs yet the extraordinary vines of Dominic Lafon's Volnay Santenots du Milieu regularly provides my favourite premier cru of the tasting. The 2008 received my highest mark with ripe damson and blackberry fruits, polished and profound tannins with wonderful old vine complexity and length. Yet there are many others that have the potential to challenge for top spot as they shake of their youthful structures. The Domaine Marquis d'Angerville trio were the most profound from any estate with potential to mature into fabulous svelt examples in 3-7 years; The Fremiets, high toned ripe dark berry fruits; The Champans, silky textured sweet damson fruits and refined vibrant tannins; The Clos des Ducs, structured and backward, but with underlying complex multi layered dense blueberry and blackberry fruits. A Domaine to watch out for and on good form in 2008 is Pousse d'Or where the revival of a less extracted style than in recent vintages is resulting in pure intense Volnay.

POMMARD

Pommard is my least favourite of appellation and we only tasted two short flights the second being all Rugiens. This is the exceptional 1er Cru of Pommard where the terroir is so powerful all the wines are marked by great power and complexity, some say of a Grand Cru level . For style however the high toned and ethereal quality of Etienne de Montille's Rugien is my choice to age most successfully .

2011 Harvest Report: Cédric Valade of Château La Grande Maye and Château Valade.

2011-09-26T14:35:00.000+01:00

The growing season:

‘2011 will remain in the memories of winemakers as a tricky vintage. The season started very early with a warm and dry April that sped up the vegetative cycle of the vines. Disbudding tasks overlapped with the 2010 primeurs tastings. We have never seen such a quick start before! It was the beginning of a race that went on until the end of the trellising of the vines!

In the meantime, the flowering took place successfully under a warm and sunny weather. We did not get much rain from January to June; 150 mm instead of 350 to 450 mm norm. Our water retentive soils were a real benefit during this time.

In June, we took the decision to only deleaf the side of the vines exposed to the rising sun. This was vindicated when temperatures rose to 40°C+ later in the summer. Such extreme heat would have scorched grapes without the protection of a healthy canopy.

From July to September, the weather became more typical with lower temperatures and regular rains that enabled a good ripening of the grapes’.

The vendage:

‘The harvest started on Monday the 19th of September and all the Château La Grande Maye Merlots were picked within the week. On Saturday, we harvested by hand the Merlot and Cabernet Franc at Château Valade in St Emilion.

The short pruning, the thinning and the green harvest enabled us to get yields of approximately 40 to 45 hl/ha. The skins are thin, the seeds are well-ripened, the berries taste great and the whole vineyard is very healthy.

The Cabernets from Château La Grande Maye can still ripen more so we plan to harvest them at the end of this week.

The winemaking is going on, with the main part of the tanks still undergoing maceration at cold temperatures before fermenting. The colour seems to extract well. The tasting of the juices shows a promising aromatic potential. At the moment, we are confident about the quality of the 2011 vintage; however, we will know more about it in a few weeks.

September 2011 is also marked by a new purchase for Château Valade. We have acquired 0.40 ha of vines and a building soon to become a new cellar, as well as a house (where my girlfriend, Héloïse, and I will live). This is ideally situated close to our vines on the calcareous plateau of St Christophe des Bardes, near Château Troplong Mondot.

We hope that we will see many more vintages in our new cellar and home, and share them with you!’

HOT OFF THE PRESS

2011-09-15T10:24:00.001+01:00

Beyond Bordeaux: J&B tips growth regions

This morning's article in the Drinks Business by Gabriel Savage featuring Justerini & Brook's buyer, Giles Burke-Gaffney:

As prices for top Bordeaux climb ever steeper, Justerini & Brooks buyer Giles Burke-Gaffney has predicted a surge in popularity for Barolo, Burgundy and the Southern Rhône.

“The younger generation coming through is less stuck on a certain region,” he observed, describing the 2007 Barolo vintage, on show at a tasting last week, as “very punter friendly.”

Burke-Gaffney also suggested that the region’s strengthening catalogue of back vintages made it an attractive alternative to Bordeaux. “The problem you face is with laying things down,” he remarked, “you need that track record, a history. We’re starting to see that with Barolo now.”

As a result, J&B has recently added a number of Barolo producers to its portfolio and Burke-Gaffney noted: “We think that it’ll kick off in a couple of years.” He also pointed to the value represented by Barolo, “which you can buy for £40-£50 a bottle,” compared to the “über-expensive” Super Tuscans.

In addition, Burke-Gaffney reported that the merchant was selling “more Burgundy every year,” with a record en primeur campaign in 2011. He also tipped the Southern Rhône for growth, although suggested that this would not extend imminently to the “more difficult” Northern Rhône.

Highlighting the appeal of the “sweeter, high alcohol” Grenache, which dominates the Southern Rhône, Burke-Gaffney compared the Northern Rhône to Burgundy, saying: “it takes longer to get Syrah, to understand the area and to know who’s good. It can be expensive too.”

Instead, he flagged up the appeal of familiar names in the south such as Châteauneuf du Pape, observing: “It has a Burgundian approach in supply but the scale is there.”

However, despite its relative inaccessibility for many consumers, Burke-Gaffney defended the Northern Rhône, saying: “When it’s good, it’s one of the best drinking experiences imaginable. There are a lot of top end producers doing a top job but”, he accepted, “it’s quite a difficult leap of faith.”

The Drinks Business

Domaine Weinbach : Praises sung on jancisrobinson.com

2011-09-14T17:30:00.000+01:00

Following a recent visit to Domaine Weinbach, Richard Hemming, regular contributor to Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages (www.jancisrobinson.com), found much to praise about the wines of Domaine Weinbach. In fact, having visited the 10 most prestigious wineries in Alsace, he appears to have come back enamoured with Weinbach more than any other Domaine. Herewith his comments in full:

WEINBACH, FALLER & FILLES

100% Biodynamic since 2005. This tasting was by far the best overall performance, judged on score alone - hit after hit, and no misses at all. The sweet wines are especially excellent, but I left convinced that this is one of those producers whom you can trust unreservedly. There is a sort of anarchic brilliance to their wines: bewildering labels, confusing cuvées, fluctuating sweetness - but joy unconfined to drink.

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Réserve Sylvaner 2010 Alsace 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Appley, dry, smooth, rather spicy and interesting. Lovely metal and mineral character to the texture and finish. More complexity than meets the nose. (RH) 13%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Réserve Pinot Blanc 2010 Alsace 16.5 Drink 2011-2013
70% Auxerrois, 30% Pinot Blanc. Lovely mineral nerve to this, quite austere, but the fruit gives the necessary flesh to fill out the palate. ‘Juicy’ as Madame Faller puts it. (RH) 13.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Cuvée Théo Riesling 2009 Alsace 16.5 Drink 2011-2016
Very sherbety, peachy, fragrant and with an almost Gewürz-y perfume. Very opulent, but finishing savoury with a mineral streak. (RH) 13.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Schlossberg Riesling 2009 Alsace Grand Cru 17 Drink 2011-2021
Fragrant, lively nose with a wonderful ripeness of fruit on the palate. Baked green apples, very approachable – no austerity at all, and great capacity for age, it seems. Fantastic length. (RH) 14%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Cuvée Ste Catherine Riesling 2008 Alsace 17 Drink 2011-2021
Mineral and limey, really layered and rich, but dry to finish. Super intense and with a lovely oily length. Wonderful hint of oxidative character – or is it phenolic? – adding some edge without spoiling. (RH) 13.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine Riesling 2009 Alsace Grand Cru 17 Drink 2011-2018
Some oyster-shell character, lime juice, loads of concentration, dry yet rich with the alcohol. Not hot, not too weighty, but bold and with definite elegance. (RH) 14%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine L'Inédit Riesling 2009 Alsace Grand Cru 16.5 Drink 2011-2018
Not quite late harvest – but has some botrytis. First produced in 1998. Picked at PA 15%. RS 18 g/l RS. Tropical, apricot and a honeyed finish. Doesn’t quite have the finesse of the regular Ste Catherine. (RH) 14%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Schlossberg Riesling Sélection de Grains Nobles 2007 Alsace 19 Drink 2011-2021
Nose doesn't seem up to much, but then the palate delivers sudden, outstanding range of flavour. This is brilliant – so sweet, yet with such savoury richness. Great Riesling definition too, seething acidity, fine balance, multiplex flavour. Needs time for the nose to develop. (RH) 10.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine L'Inédit Riesling 2001 Alsace Grand Cru 17.5 Drink 2005-2012
RS 25 g/l. Proper gold colour, amazing buttery, creamy consistency. Mature dried fruits with a host of spices and a long, honey glazed finish. Rather brilliant, splendid maturity, although I wouldn’t keep it much longer. (RH)

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Cuvée Ste Catherine Pinot Gris 2009 Alsace 17.5+ Drink 2011-2018
I like this a lot – great roasted peanut character. Loads of body, loads of flavour, long finish and enough structure to last. I can’t think of a better Pinot Gris that I know. (RH) 14.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Altenbourg Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace 17 Drink 2011-2016
RS 25 g/l. NB Altenbourg is a lieu-dit, not to be confused with the Grand Cru Altenberg. Honeyed, rich, dried oranges, sweet spice, a bit of mushroom. Marmalade, apricot, warm and expressive. (RH) 14.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Trie Spéciale Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 2008 Alsace 18 Drink 2011-2016
TA 9.9 g/l. Wonderful, so mouthfilling and complex. Amazing tarte tatin, honey, herbs, long, long finish. Such profundity! (RH) 10.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Altenbourg Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 2008 Alsace 17 Drink 2011-2015
RS 90 g/l. Very good, but not as soaring as the Trie Spécial. Layers of sweet, tropical fruit, orange peel, cinnamon and a touch of earthy funk on the finish. (RH) 12%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Cuvée Théo Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace 16.5 Drink 2011-2015
RS 25 g/l. Roses, apricots, not at all overdone, great restraint. Long finish, slightly grippy but that balances nicely with the sweetness and freshness. (RH) 13.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Cuvée Laurence Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace 17 Drink 2011-2015
RS 36 g/l. Honey-covered fruits, floral bouquet in full effect, slightly bitter on the finish. Good restraint again, lovely control: all length no flab. (RH) 13.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Altenbourg Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace 17+ Drink 2011-2014
RS 40 g/l. Tremendous vibrancy and life in this, fine honey and honeysuckle character with a long floral finish. (RH) 13.5%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Furstentum Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace Grand Cru 17.5 Drink 2011-2016
Spices up front, lots of floral character. Wonderful freshness and viscosity with a tempting, drinkable balance. Great restraint – especially for grand cru level. (RH) 13%

Weinbach, Faller & Filles, Altenbourg Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles 2008 Alsace 20 Drink 2011-2018
RS 160 g/l. Again, quite stunning aroma. Great body, outstanding clarity of fruit and a sudden late acidity to prevent it losing shape. Lengthy, round, exciting, too many fruits to mention and a wonderful botrytis nutty character to finish. (RH) 10.5%

Barolo 2007 - 27 out of the top 30 Parker Points

2011-09-07T16:45:00.000+01:00

Here at J&B we like to think we buy what we rate and follow those producers we truly believe in. We don't , and never have, slavishly followed Parker points, or those of any other critic for that matter. I think it's what makes our customers come back to us time and again.

But it is worth pointing out the recent dominance our Barolo list has in the top 30 scoring wines in 2007, as scored by Antonio Galloni on Robert Parkers website. And, with the exception of his ratings of Marengo's stunning 07's, Galloni is a critic who's praise we do generally agree with. He is a man who know's Piedmont in great detail.

No fewer than 7 out of the top 10, 15 out of the top 20, and 23 out of the top 30 are wines we list. And more to the point, have listed for some time, most probably before the rise of Mr Galloni on Parker's site.

Of particular note, with a price v points hat on, are the wines from Azelia, Scavino and Clerico.

Burgfest 2008 Vintage

2011-09-06T12:34:00.003+01:00

A high sense of high anticipation proceeded the blindtasting of the 2008 vintage (bottled some 6-10 months earlier), with a line upincluding over 300 Premiere and Grand Cru Pinot Noirs from the Cote d'Or's topDomaines and negociants .

The wines were tasted in flights village by village overthree days, 1er Crus followed by Grand Crus.

Earliest impressions of the 2008 vintage are one ofconsistent freshness and a pure expression of Pinot Noir. Wines defined by a cooler vintage that hadample acidity, concentrated by cool north winds and bought to perfect ripenessby warm cloudless days and cool nights.

Spain - Exciting times

2011-08-15T15:49:00.008+01:00

I completed my annual 5 day 1000k+ road trip to Spain recently to taste the newly released wines, mostly 2008, with a sneak preview of what delights 2009 and 2010 have to offer, aswell. Apart from leaving me sick to the back teeth of my hire car, the trip made me feel incredibly upbeat about Spain's credentials as a source of high quality wine. The country is still suffering from terrible economic turmoil but its broad group of fine wine producers should be well placed to shift their emphasis from a faltering home market to export. It is incredibly rare for wine-producing countries to be known for producing both top quality and great value wines, usually a place is labelled as one or the other. Spain, however, carries off both to remarkably great effect. This is due to a generation of rigorous growers who are re-discovering their traditions, saving indigenous grape varieties and making wine with passion and attention to detail.

Whilst producers within Rioja continue to raise their qualitative bar to even greater heights, with growers such as the Egurens of Sierra Cantabria focusing their efforts on single vineyards of the low-yielding Tempranillo Peludo clone, Spain can increasingly offer more than just Rioja - be it Garnacha and Carinena from Priorat; Tinta del Toro from Toro; Old vine Verdejo from southern Rueda; Tinto Fino from Ribera del Duero; or top notch Albarino or Godello from Rias Baixas. Additionally there are now an increasing number of re-envigorated wine regions offering great wines that offer as good a "bang for buck" as anywhere in the world, places such as Jumilla, Manchuela, Yecla and Campo de Borja. However for me the most interesting new place that my recent forays unearthed was a Catalan wine region an hour south of Priorat called Terra Alta. A high altitude of 400 metres above sea, proximity to the Mediterranean, wonderful chalk limestone and sand soils (a cross-section of which is pictured above) and some old vines, all make for first class wine. Even better it is still a relative unknown on export markets and in trying to carve itself a global reputation, Terra Alta offers excellent value, too. The only shame is that the region relies on a very small group of quality producers, most of the land still being dominated by small growers selling to the cooperative.

So to the Country's wine-producing merits of quality and value, you can add diversity. Vinously, at least, these are exciting times for Spain. It feels like there is still so much more to come.

Barolo 2007 - Summary

2011-07-27T10:09:00.000+01:00

I had already tasted a few cuvees of 2007 last year, the quality seemed unbelievably good at the time almost too good, too easy. So I came out here with a degree of suspicion, wondering how the wines had evolved, were they too opulent or had they faded in any way? The answer, resoundingly, is no. This is a special vintage. The wines are so inviting and alluring. So easy to taste. There is plenty of tannin but it is a sweet sumptuous tannin. The wines are as effortless as Barolo can be at this early stage but more encouragingly they show every sign of ageing well. They have more freshness than I expected and very ripe clear fruit flavours. As well as enthralling Nebbiolo lovers, this vintage, I am sure, will bring the region many new friends. That mix of approachability and ageability is what makes this special. When asked, growers themselves struggle to come up with another vintage to compare it with, 07 is unique.

I have aslo relooked at several 2006s out here and I am every bit as confident in them, if not more so, as I was this time last year. Of course they were more rigid and classic to taste upon release, though they are already shaping up well and in time could well prove to be the equal of 2007. For the time being, though, we should revel in the 2007s, they are a delight.

The season started early, summer was sunny and dry but never hot and whilst this aided ripening, the cool nights extended the ripening period. So even after an early start, vintage took place at the usual time - during the first week of October. Growers say that long, gentle seasons like this are the best, certainly 07's ripening conditions have resulted in wines of smooth, shapely tannins without sacrificing any power.

In early September 2011 we will present 2007s from all of the growers mentioned in this blog, our greatest ever offering of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero, it should prove a fitting celebration to the Piedmont and its great wines.

Barolo 2007 - Castiglione, Serralunga, Monforte, Roero and one more La Morra

2011-07-27T09:16:00.001+01:00

This trip is starting to get very expensive for me. I left La Morra not only with an appreciation of a delicious raw spiced beef sausage produced in the town of "Bra" but also with a fairly sizeable personal shopping list of wine. Tuesday's and Wednesday morning's tastings have seen this list swell even further.

I wondered whether the sumptuous textures of the wines i had been enjoying so far were purely a La Morra phenomenon but it is clear this a feature of the vintage accross the region.

Scavino are a benchmark; their 2007s are serious and polished wines, the bric del Fiasc wine is a fitting tribute to this top cru, one of the first single cru bottled up separately back in 1978. It was exciting to go to Vietti for the first time, also in Castiglione, their wines are hugely intense and complex. And the last of the Castiglione trio, Azelia, are now the equal of anyone in the region. Marginally longer fermentations and less new oak have, over the last few vintages, seen them jump to the top division of producers. Apart from a great Dolcetto, the best there is, i also fell for the San Rocco.

Clerico, I am glad to report, is fit and well. Since 05 / 06 vintages gentler extraction has been a feature of the wines, his new range from Dolcetto to Barolo Cru is, in my view, the best and most refined he has ever made.

My visit to this wonderful region came to a happy end on Wednesday morning, a tasting at Azienda Matteo Correggia and a simply glorious Roero Riserva Rocche d'Ampsej 2007 and finally back to La Morra, to Giuliano of Giovanni Corino. Silky bright and totally seductive Barolo Cru 2007s and a memorable old vines 2006 Giachini. Those who like Barolo with a bit of extra grunt will prefer the wines of his brother Renato, those who like finesse in their La Morra Barolos will be totally seduced by those of Giuliano.

Now accross the nowhere lands passed Piacenza and into the beautiful hills of Soave and Valpolicella

Barolo 2007 - Barbaresco and La Morra

2011-07-27T09:16:00.000+01:00

Monday started with a bang. If Roberto Voerzio describes a vintage as "legendary" you sit up and take notice. These were the impressive dense but highly svelte wines I was expecting, and the even better news is there is a full complement of crus made this year.

In Barbaresco, Gaja made some extremely slick, serious 07s, whilst over the road in Neive Giacosa's new Barolo is as pure and elegant as ever, whilst bowing to that sweet generosity of the vintage.

Our very own J&B blogger, Silvia Altare of Elio Altare, was in typically effusive mood, not only do they have an exciting new cru from Serralunga, Cerretta, but also the range of 2007s is phenomenal, pure smooth but not too sluggish, they retain that wonderful flowery, high-toned scent good La Morra should have but also betray an extra edge and grip that mark them out as so special. They are some of the very best wines they have made.

Renato Corino of the gigantic hands (the biggest in the Barolo business) has made a gigantic Rocche. I will taste his brother's wines Giuliano of Giovanni Corino on Wednesday.

Even taking all of these highs into consideration, THE highlight for me so far has been tasting with Marco Marengo. His 2007s were easily the best he has made ( which is saying something) and rival the very best in the vintage. This seems at great odds with some recent ratings he has been given which were, in my view, a mistake. The wines have found an extra level of finesse, they are intense and haunting, high toned but sweet and alluring. Barolo has never come closer to Burgundy. I found them totally beguiling

More on Castiglione, Serralunga and Monforte tomorrow...

A glowing review for Aristos

2011-07-21T11:09:00.000+01:00

Award winning Master of Wine Peter Richards knows a thing or two about Chile. Extensive travelling (and tasting) through Chile's vineyard regions instilled in him a burning passion for the wines produced there and so it was no surprise that he returned to pen the Andre Simon short-listed book, Wines of Chile. He is the Decanter World Wine Awards Chilean Regional Chair and together with his wife, fellow MW Susie Barrie, was awarded IWSC Wine and Spirits Communicator of the year in 2010. Not content with being a very talented writer and broadcaster, he is also, perhaps most importantly, an exceptional taster. And having tasted most of what Chile has to offer it's exciting to see him sing the praises of a wine we tasted and loved immediately.

Quoting verbatim from the August edition of Decanter Peter wrote:

"One of Chile's newest, most exciting names is the result of an international collaboration between some reputed names. Vosne-Romanee producer Vicomte Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, works with noted Chilean terroir specialist Pedro Parra and maverick winemaker Francois Massoc to make just two Cabernets and a Chardonnay. The first vintages were sourced from the Calyptra vineyard, high in the Andean foothills in Coya in the eastern Cachapoal Valley. The Cabernet is refreshing and easy drinking in the Chilean Context, but it's the elegantly savoury, nutty and grippy Chardonnay, very much in a Burgundian mould, that is the star. Given Liger-Belair's origins you might expect a Pinot Noir to be on the cards. But according to Parra, the team 'haven't found any in Chile good enough. Yet."

Rhone 2010 - Greater than 2009?

2011-07-14T12:24:00.005+01:00

I look forward to the Rhone buying trip with particular relish. The place is beautiful, the weather a welcome change from grey London and the diverse array of wines fantastic. Rhone can never be accused of being boring, from the divergent blends of Chateauneuf, the varying styles of the Northern Syrahs, not to mention Condrieu, Marsannes and Roussannes. What's more I know that when I get back home, there will be more than a few things on my wine shopping list that I will actually be able to afford.

This July's aim was to re-taste 2009s and take an extensive look at 2010s. The schedule in front of me was bursting at the seams, 22 growers in 4 days including Clos des Papes,Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe, Chave, Domaine du Coulet, Alain Graillot, Rostaing, Clusel Roch and Stephane Ogier to name a few. I am very much becoming a victim of the Rhone's success, it seems that every year we add a new grower to the portfolio. The trip left me quite exhausted, albeit in a thoroughly satisifed way.

2009s are showing just as well as a year ago if not better, it is a rich vintage north and south, a show stopper, a vintage of opulence and seduction. For me the wines of the year, north or south, were those of Rene Rostaing, though the fabulous Chave 09s (to be released next year) will be snapping at Rostaing's heals.

As for 2010, well all I can say is that, taken as a whole, Rhone 2010 is greater than 2009. In the south, thanks to coulure, it is a very small vintage but the quality is excellent. The wines have the ripeness of 2009, the concentration, but more freshness and balance. Indeed they approach the 2007s in depth and will supercede them for drinkability. I thought Versino/ Bois de Boursan was particularly successful, as was Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe and le Bois Pointu (now made by Domaine Etienne Gonnet)

In the North, 2010 is a truely great year, whether greater than 09 depends on the individual producer. It is a very close call between the two in Cote Rotie particularly, whereas in Hermitage and Cornas I almost unanimously preferred the crisp, more defined and elegant structures of the 2010s. Rene Rostaing again came up trumps with an outstanding range, Francois Villard I think has made his best ever vintage, red and white, whilst the lovable Clusel Rochs have pulled a very special vintage out of the bag. Faurie and Domaine du Colombier (whose freshly ripened apricots were out of this world!) performed brilliantly and one of my very favourite growers Mathieu Barret of Domaine du Coulet, has yet again made stunning Cornas, far better than many Hermitages. For me Cornas is one France's most underrated appellations.

So there we have it, a great vintage and, hopefully, probably, maybe.... reasonable prices. Our full offer of 2010s will be launched in November.

Next stop Spain in a week's time, follow the action on twitter @gilesbg

Loire 2010 - Unmissable Value

2011-06-21T16:41:00.007+01:00

Arriving at Angers train station on Monday 13th to find that even rental car companies in France take off the obligatory "jour ferrier", despite having accepted my reservation, was an inauspicious start to the trip. Well, thankfully it was as bad as my week got, it was smooth roads and 5th gear from then on.

2010 in the Loire, like many of France's wine regions, was not always easy. Poor flowering, a gloomy summer and even some late summer rains tested the mettle of the region's best growers. And this is exactly the point. The days of turning but a glancing eye to all non Sauvignon Loire wines in only the hottest and "easiest" of vintages must be consigned to history. The quality of many 2010 Chenins, Pinots and Cab Francs is excellent. This was obviously helped by the late season drying wind and bright sunshine, together with a very small potential crop owing to coulure, but I feel it is just as much testament to the effort the growers are making in their vines - be it de-budding, de-leafing or overall excellent management of soils and vine canopy.

Chinon and Bourgueil were particular successful appellations, the 2010s from Joguet, Amirault and Domaine de la Butte were outstanding and for their poise and balance I prefer them to 2009. Pinot Noirs from Sancerre chez Pinard look remarkable, it could be their best red vintage yet, great ripeness and intensity without surrendering Pinot delicacy and Loire freshness. They really would not look out of place in a blind tasting of the Cote d'Or's finest.

In Coteaux de Layon it is an exceptional vintage, very concentrated and distinctly zesty. Sweet wines of that quality and price are virtually impossible to find anywhere else. In Vouvray and Montlouis vintage conditions were more challenging, but, again, the startling quality of Jacky Blot's Domaine de la Taille aux Loups wines really show how far the Loire has come in the last 10-15 years. Difficult conditions no longer means difficult wine.

Sancerres and Pouilly Fumes are much more classic than in 2009, no doubt some of the more commercial entities have made lean and aggressive wines but for top growers beautiful, ripe, intense and classically vibrant wines are very much the norm.

Overall its a very impressive but small vintage, with losses being up to 40% on the average. There may be quality in 2010 and a shortage of it, but so far there is no indication of heinous price increases, it should prove the value region of 2010.

photo - Valerie Dagueneau of Domaine Serge Dagueneau gets stuck into to some ploughing.

Bordeaux 2010 - Domaine de Chevalier, Malescot St Exupery, Fonbel and Monbousquet

2011-06-14T14:12:00.000+01:00

Olivier Bernard's extensive project at Domaine de Chevalier has really come to fruition. After a bold and not to mention expensive re-planting program throughout the `80s and then a decade and a half of patience for the vines to gain maturity, we can really see the benefits. 2005, 2008, 2009 and now 2010 rank amongst the very best wines produced in this sprawling commune. Powerful but graceful, true to their terroir, and just so enjoyable to drink; this has become one of our 'must buy' estates. Olivier's wines offer 'super second' class at relatively affordable prices.
`Tasted three times, the Domaine de Chevalier has great precision on the nose with pure dark blackberry, dark plum, black olive compote and crushed flowers. The palate is just superb, mainly because of the crispness and tension in the tannic structure, framing a very precise, very focused Domaine de Chevalier that should age beautifully. It is almost understated but with great mineralité on the finish and superb persistency. Watch it blossom in bottle. 93-95/100`. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal
Chateau Malescot St Exupery casts an imposing shadow over the village of Margaux.There is something rather rustic and charming about the estate; however, the wines are anything but bucolic. Malescot is back on top form producing muscular, modern, sexy Margaux, which delight the critics (and us). The turn-around has been spectacular at this property; not long ago they were treading water, now this is one of the most sought after estates in the Medoc.
` This estate, which has been on a qualitative crescendo for over ten years, has made a prodigious 2010 that ranks alongside their 2009, 2005 and 2000. A gorgeous fragrance of spring flowers, cedarwood, black and red currants and hints of spice box and subtle oak is followed by a generously endowed, full-bodied, opulent wine with layers of concentration, a restrained yet exuberant personality, superb fruit purity and a long finish. There is plenty of tannin, no doubt elevated alcohol and wonderful freshness as well as delicacy. This beauty should drink well for 25 or more years. 94-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
We can also offer the wonderful Chateau Fonbel. This is Alain Vauthier's little baby and always represents terrific value for money. With the same team as Ausone at the helm it is hardly surprising that wines from this St Emilion property are stylish, pure and very seductive. The 2010 completes our list of best 'Value Buys'. Please follow the link below for the comprehensive list.
To complete our round-up, we have a Gerard Perse wine to offer, Monbousquet. From exceptionally low yields, this is big, modern; a testament to the Perse style of winemaking. It is well received by Robert Parker (91-93) and obviously appeals to the British palate too with 92-94 points from Neal Martin.
NEWSFLASH – We have a handful of cases of yesterday's hot ticket, Leoville Poyferre left at £1075 per case. This exceptional 2nd Growth has a mighty 95-98 points from Robert Parker and is set to join the likes of the 1990 and 2009 in the Poyferre hall of fame. A tremendous wine, so hurry...
` One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years. 95-98/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Kirwan

2011-06-14T14:07:00.000+01:00

Chateau Kirwan's illustrious history can be traced back to the early 18th century, but it wasn't until Sir John Collingwood's daughter married the eponymous Mark Kirwan that the estate inherited its Gaelic name.
In 1855, it was classified as a 3rd growth although its vineyards on the Cantenac plateau can hardly be called top terroir. The estate's fortunes suffered with phylloxera, World Wars and depression, but now under the ownership of Schroder & Schyler, things are turning around. The 2009 was very impressive and the 2010 shows plenty of potential.

Bordeaux 2010 - Leoville Barton and Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge

2011-06-14T14:06:00.009+01:00

Leoville Barton is a by-word for top quality Claret. Anthony has fashioned many outstanding wines from his 2nd Growth St Julien estate and he always prices his wines fairly. The 2010 is a monumental effort, receiving 96-98 and 97-98 from Neal Martin and James Suckling respectively. This is a splendid 'super second' and we thoroughly endorse it at £845 per case – a great wine!
Also new to our list is the magnificent Smith Haut Lafitte. Daniel and Florence Cathiard have taken this Pessac estate to the next level. The wines here outshine many of the top names from the more fashionable communes and are challenging the likes of Haut Bailly, La Mission and even Haut Brion for supremacy in the Graves. 2010 receives a spectacular 95-97 points from Robert Parker, and it is well deserved, we were blown away by the seductive fruit, silky texture and sheer class here. At £865 per case, it is a little dearer than last year, but the quality is so exceptional, it more than warrants the price...

Bordeaux 2010 - Durfort Vivens and La Lagune

2011-06-14T14:06:00.007+01:00

Another barmy day on the Place. We can't help but feel that ego is getting in the way of business with the velocity of releases, or maybe Chateaux owners don't like us very much... It should be common sense that smaller Chateau can't compete with the big boys when it comes to stealing the limelight. Yesterday was dominated by Pontet Canet and Calon Segur, today has been dominated by the splendid 2nd Growth, Leoville Poyferre, so fromage à pâte dure for all the less glamorous wines. We would echo the sentiments of negociants, merchants and probably the paying public – please stagger the releases, we don't need to do the campaign in a fortnight!
The final releases of the day are Gonzague Lurton's second growth Margaux property, Durfort Vivens and the massively impressive La Lagune. Durfort was one of our picks of the vintage in 2009 and the 2010 is a worthy successor. Bravo Gonzague. It will be the cheapest 2nd growth of the campaign, but at £375/cs, this is something of a repositioning act by Durfort... La Lagune (£465/cs) is typically immense. Modern vintages of this Haut Medoc estate are commended by Bibby P. This effort gets a whopping 93-96 points!
'Is this 2005 deja vu "all over again"? Proprietress Caroline Frey has elevated the quality at La Lagune since acquiring this estate, and the 2010 is another superb effort as well as one of the better values in Bordeaux. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, black currants, licorice and subtle smoke and graphite. While uber-concentrated, full-bodied and pure, it retains both elegance and precision as well as a sensational 45-second finish. The suppleness of the tannins and stunning opulence suggest it will drink beautifully for 25+ years. 93-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194

Bordeaux 2010 - Round-up

2011-06-14T14:06:00.004+01:00

As France enjoys a non-compulsory 'Pentecost' bank holiday (let's hope the Bordelaise are filled with the spirit of reasonable pricing), it gives us some time to pause and reflect on the madness of last week. After a month of complaining about the trickle of releases, the floodgates were opened. We were deluged with big name Chateaux such as Pontet Canet, Leoville Poyferre and Calon Segur. Amid the chaos, it would be easy to miss the likes of Langoa Barton, Talbot, Malescot St Exupery, Domaine de Chevalier, Cantenac Brown, Durfort Vivens, La Lagune, Giscours, Kirwan, Certan de May, Le Dome and Fonbel, many of which are amongst the best wines ever produced at these estates.
Please find a round-up of the releases from last week, plus a second tranche of Pontet Canet below. Particular mention should got to: Langoa Barton (the best wine made to date at this 3rd growth estate), Malescot St Exupery (a spectacular and exotic Margaux with 94-96 points from RP), another splendid Domaine de Chevalier, our surprise package Balestard La Tonnelle and two big scorers in Cantenac Brown (92-94+ RP) and La Lagune (93-96 RP).
It is also worth pointing out that our 'Top Ten Value Buys` have all been released, and not a single one will set you back more than £160 per case. We believe that these would stack up against anything at a comparable price from any wine producing region in the world. Proof it were needed that Bordeaux still offers value.

Burgundy 2011 - The view from the vines at Domaine Grivot

2011-06-09T17:10:00.001+01:00

The photos below were taken by Hubert Grivot on the 7th June in balmy 25C weather and blue skies. If you haven't yet heard, things are galloping along at pace down on the Cote d'Or, with many growers reporting a whole months advance in the usual cycle of their vines. Yet, despite the precocious nature of the vintage thus far, vine and berry development is reported to be healthy and harmonious.

The last couple of days have been cooler, no bad thing, with temperatures hovering around 17C. Growers are hoping this might slow things down a little...

Thanks to Mathilde Grivot for sending these photos through and keeping us up to date with life as a winemaker in Vosne Romanee.

Bordeaux 2010 - Château Balestard La Tonnelle

2011-06-09T15:56:00.002+01:00

The St Emilion UGC is not the place one expects to find anything but nasty surprises. Yes, the Nicolas Thienpont wines always shine, but many of the others are, well, dross! Nevertheless, we boldly step into the fray each year, just in case... Our persistence was rewarded (thankfully). The very first wine, one Château Balestard La Tonnelle, Grand Cru Classé, bowled us over. What a wine. Great concentration, beautiful, precise flavours, well managed tannins and lots of freshness and lift. What more could one want? At £295 per case, this along with Tour du Pin (£300) and Moulin St Georges (not yet released) make up our hot trio from St Emilion.

Bordeaux 2010 - Talbot, Langoa, Reserve de Comtesse and more...

2011-06-09T15:56:00.000+01:00

First up, we have Anthony Barton's 3rd Growth St Julien Estate, Langoa Barton. We have been extolling the virtues of Langoa for many years. There has been a gradual transition from gentle, slightly old fashioned wines to a much more muscular, impressive style. Tasting the 2009 and the 2010, you would have to say that Langoa has arrived at its destination. This brace exemplify everything good about modern St Julien. Both are enormously impressive wines, but the 2010 possibly has the greater aging potential. Kudos to Mon. B.
Travelling a little further inland and a little further down the 1855 classification, Chateau Talbot has joined the party. It is perhaps fair to say we liked rather than loved Talbot this year, but it nevertheless is a concentrated age worthy effort built in a classical style. And compared to some it has only a modest increase on last year's price.
Reserve de la Comtesse has, in our opinion, hit the nail on the head this year. Beautifully styled and refined with a textbook Pauillac nose and wonderfully fine tannins this is a very good and handsome second wine, with another modest rise on 2009 (though still a rise we hear you say).
Also out today, Jonathan Maltus' St. Emilion garagiste property Le Dome. Quite possibly unique in Bordeaux in that it is now made up of 80% Cabernet Franc, it received a laudable 94-96 from Parker, and was also tasted very well by the J&B team.
From the Moueix stable we have Certan de May, whose vineyards sit next to Lafleur, VCC and Petrus. At £840 it is a flamboyant effort that will no doubt be considerably cheaper than its neighbours.
*Stop Press* One final release, just out Cantenac Brown at £430 cs ib. Controversial in that its power and concentration that belie its appellation, it is nonetheless a very impressive wine.

Bordeaux 2010 - Haut Bergey

2011-06-09T15:55:00.000+01:00

Haut Bergey 2010 has achieved unanimous praise; so much so that cynics might question the proximity of scores from all the major critics... 92-94 from Robert Parker and Neal Martin, 92-93 from James Suckling and 92-95 from The Wine Spectator. This property situated near to the excellent Haut Bailly, produces charming, good value Pessac, and offers lots of QRP.

Bordeaux 2010 - Giscours, Echo de Lynch Bages, Pagodes

2011-06-09T15:54:00.000+01:00

Giscours have made a very good 2010 indeed with plenty of Margaux typicity but also a wonderful depth of fruit. It is has been awarded its highest ever marks from Big Bob (92-95) and should cellar beautifully for two decades or more.
Echo de Lynch Bages represents something of a relative steal this vintage. Crafted very much in the mould of Lynch Bages, without such enormous power but with added accessibility and juiciness and a beautiful vivacity. Lovers of the Cazes style will not be disappointed.
Pagodes, what can we say about Pagodes? As modern and sleek as its brand new winery, it is a tour de force of winemaking craft and once again sits stylistically and recognisably beside its bigger sibling.
'Possibly the finest Pagodes the estate has produced, as Jean-Guillaume Prats said, this 2010 is better than many vintages of Cos d'Estournel produced in the sixties and seventies. Forty-five percent of the production made it into this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot that achieved 14.1% alcohol naturally. Plump and fat with an abundant concentration of black fruits as well as outstanding intensity, purity and texture, this beauty should drink well for 10-15 years. 90-93/100'. - Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194

Latour sale kicks off Christie's Hong Kong Spring Sales Series with 100% sell-through rate

2011-05-31T11:17:00.000+01:00

Friday's hotly anticipated HK sale of Ex-Chateau Latour saw no fewer than 14 lots selling for over HK $1 million and 95% of lots selling over the high estimate. Could this signal the beginnings of a Chateau rivalling Lafite's dominance in the East? To quote directly from Christie's...

"The Hong Kong Spring sales began on a high note with the sale of ‘Rarities from the Cellar of Château Latour’ on May 28^th, 2011 which achieved a 100% sell-through rate over an eight-hour long session. Offering 392 lots direct from Château Latour, the sale totalled HK$ 59,718,000/US$ 7,673,763/ £ 4,675,919/ € 5,416,423, with 95% of sold lots over the high estimate and 14 lots over HK$1 million. The top three lots were all Vintage 1961, 6 magnums, which sold for HK$1.8 million/ US$ 231,300/£ 140,940/€ 163,260 each.

Mr. David Elswood, International Head of Wine for Christie’s, said: “The sale marks a triumphant result for Château Latour in Hong Kong. Vintage 1961 reigned supreme, achieving a new record price of HK$1.8 million for the 6 magnum lots, while the 1961 impériale sold for HK$1.68 million. With 100% sold and 14 lots selling over HK$1 million, the sale once again demonstrates the tremendous appeal of Château Latour and the strong demand for wines of the highest quality and rarity.”

Mr. Charles Curtis MW, Head of Wine for Christie’s Asia, added, “The Château Latour sale was a great success, totaling close to HK$60 million/US$7.67million/GBP 4.68 million with a 100% sell-through rate. It was gratifying to see collectors sitting through an eight-hour long session to bid for the very best vintages, including 1961, 1959 and 1945, leading to over 95% of sold lots selling over the high estimate. Asian buyers came out particularly strong, dominating our top tens of the sale. We also saw our highest average lot value to date at HK$152,342/US$19,576/GBP11,928, reflecting a true appreciation of quality and the pursuit of perfection among wine connoisseurs around the world.”

Burgundy 2010 - An update from Domaine Grivot

2011-05-26T11:18:00.006+01:00

Following what could be called a genuine winter with frost and rain and especially the night of 19th December with a temperature of -20 degree Celsius; not only did many vines perish but the same fate befell a large number of fruit-bearing buds.

Growth started at the usual time and was consistent thanks to summer temperatures in late April. But 2010 was one of the rainiest years ever recorded during the vines’ growing period.
During the summer, the weather was very cool and vines and fruits growth up normal. These conditions played a predominant role in ensuring that the vines remained healthy.

At Domaine Grivot, we took the decision to use only organic products for vines in 2010 and we are very happy; for the first time, we saw how the plant was able to cope with all of these weather challenges without external assistance. The foliage stayed a glorious deep green, the skin of the fruit had incredible thickness and all the different elements ripened in perfect harmony. Very good news for the future!

We started grape-picking on 23th September in cool weather with a light northerly wind. We record 40% less production compared to a normal year. However, given the weather experienced during the vintage, this also explains the marvellous quality of the harvest. The vintage is promising.

The wines produced are superbly balanced, in the spirit of the 2000 vintage but with greater density. Colours are dense and luminous. A generous palate with an incredibly delicate finish. Tannins are silky and sophisticated. Without any doubt a great success and a tribute to all the hard work in the vineyards over the last few years.

I have a liking for the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellations this year. They are superb and have a great elegance, freshness, harmony, fineness and structure.

Concerning the 2011 vintage? Very early to ask about it!

But the high temperature, at the beginning of spring, gives the premonition of a precocious vintage. The vines are crazy!!
The third week of April, we recorded, in Vosne-Romanee, 22 days earlier than 2009…
At the middle of May, flowering was blooming. Just one week was required to pass this stage.

If we count like the ancients, one hundred days, we should harvest around of the 20th August in Vosne-Romanee and Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Hopefully the weather will be cool this summer.

Germany 2010 - a potential legend

2011-05-24T07:44:00.004+01:00

Like everyone else, I suppose, all I remembered about the 2010 German vintage were reports of doom and gloom that had already started to surface by September 2010, before the main harvest had even begun. People had all but written it off. So I came out to Germany in April 2011 with much scepticism after hearing reports from producers of "great things"

Difficult conditions throughout the 2010 summer were fortunately complimented by two factors: A bad flowering that meant potential yields were low, a good thing considering the poor summer that lay waiting, as fewer grapes mean easier ripening. The second factor was sunny, cool weather at the end of September through October, when the main harvest took place.

Early summer conditions and cool temperatures did mean that vintage was late, many growers were still picking into November. As Klaus Peter Keller put it "you had to not lose your nerve and wait until the grapes were ripe"

It is clear there are two sides to this vintage, commercial production and mediocre producers have meant lean, acidic wine. However totally on the contrary, top producers from top sites have made some stunning grosse gewachs and late harvest wines.

The crop is small but the wines are fabulously intense and concentrated, so much so that the extract covers the high acidities amply. It is also a vintage where the different soils and climates sing gloriously through each wine. This is a classic and should be a great one to lay down. As an example Zilliken has recorded the lowest crop for 30 years, but the highest ever average must weights.

So never has there been such a wide qualitative gap between the top and bottom wines in one vintage, but Riesling fans will not want to miss out on top growers' wines, at their best they could be something close to legendary

(pictured is the mightly Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg of Carl von Schubert)

Bordeaux 2010 value survey

2011-05-23T15:18:00.005+01:00

QPR, seems to be a commonplace initialism amongst tweeters, bloggers and those on the wine forums. I suppose it’s a sign of the times. Everyone has embraced austerity and we all demand a little more for our hard earned dollar. Although Bordeaux is dominated by stories of record auctions in Hong Kong and stratospheric prices for First Growths, there is lots of value to be found, if you look in the right places...

After the UGC tastings, we ask our team to list their top ten wines from various categories including ‘best value’. Value is subjective of course. A Wall Street Banker’s concept of value may not be very well aligned to that of a St James’s Street wine merchant, but with hands on hearts we compile a list of what we think are the best buys from the vintage. If proof were needed, after we have removed our hands from our chests, we put them in our pockets (or handbags...). The likes of Petit Bocq, Valade, Clos des Quatre Soeurs and Capbern Gasqueton all feature in our own cellars.

For the complete list and for more 'top tens', please follow this link http://bit.ly/jN5y0X

Bordeaux 2010 - Capbern Gasqueton

2011-05-23T14:50:00.002+01:00

The formidable Madame Gasqueton of Calon Segur also owns this excellent estate situated south of the town of St Estephe, between the vineyards of Montrose and Phelan Segur. Tipped as one of the best value buys of the 2009 campaign, the team here have managed a repeat performance.
Sadly the yield has been influenced by some hail damage in May, but the quality is unaffected. The J&B team were mighty impressed by the cool, sophisticated style here. Whilst it doesn't have the class of the mighty Calon, it was by no means overshadowed. This is another glorious St Estephe, which offers lots of intensity and refinement for the price tag.

Bordeaux 2010 - Clos des Quatre Vents

2011-05-23T14:50:00.001+01:00

Luc Thienpont's Clos des Quatre Vents is one of the jewels in the J&B portfolio. We have been following the estate since the 2000 vintage and it just keeps getting better and better. Luc's side of the Thienpont family are 'garagistes'. His brother Jacques owns Le Pin (1.6Ha) in Pomerol. Clos des Quatre Vents occupies an even smaller 1.2Ha of superb deep gravel terroir on the croups of Margaux. Annual production is similar to that of Le Pin, so this is a rare bottle of wine (approx 600 cases are produced per annum). Major cru classes surround the Clos on all sides, yet Luc has not followed the garagistes' pricing strategy – this still offers lots of value for money.
Luc is a pragmatic man; he loves to be out in the vineyards. His devotion to his vines almost cost him an arm earlier this year when he had an accident with a pruning machine. Thankfully he has recovered well and he is back in his beloved vineyards. This is the essence of Clos des Quatre Vents. Lots of work in the vineyard ensures that the 80 year old vines produce healthy fruit, which in turn is gently vinified by Jacques Boissenot (consultant to all of the First Growths) to ensure an elegant wine with intensity, charm, and reflects its great terroir.
We are delighted that Neal Martin shares our enthusiasm for this wine and has awarded the 2010 92-94 points, the same score as Chateau Palmer (which the J&B team thought was the best Palmer in yonks...).
'Courtesy of Luc Thienpont, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the Clos des Quatre Vents is broody and introspective on the nose at first with liquorice-tinged dark berried fruits. The palate has a rounded, supple entry with crisp raspberry and wild strawberry, very harmonious and focused towards the caressing finish. This is a lovely Margaux...just a shame the production is so tiny. 92-94/100'. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Rieussec

2011-05-20T15:47:00.001+01:00

Rieussec has enjoyed a great resurgence over the past decade. With the financial backing and technical know-how of Domaines Barons Rothschild behind them, the estate has flourished into one of the top names in the appellation. Situated on one of the highest points in Sauternes, close to the hallowed vineyards of Chateau Yquem, Rieussec has produced a string of excellent vintages under the stewardship of Charles Chevalier. The style has certainly improved since the Lafite team took over. We have noticed that the wines possess more intensity and finesse and have slimmed down somewhat, although they certainly haven't lost any of their concentration and sweetness. The 2010 is another wonderful example and is sure to delight those who admire great sweet wines.
If you're only going to buy one Sauternes this campaign - make sure it's Chateau Rieussec. If you would like to order a case, please register your interest by calling 00 44 (0)20 7484 6400 or emailing justorders@justerinis.com

Bordeaux 2010 - Beychevelle and Cantemerle

2011-05-18T11:35:00.001+01:00

Today has proved to be the most exciting morning of the campaign so far. Chateau Beychevelle, one of the most sought after brands in China, and also a firm favourite in the UK has released at £675 per case. This is quite an increase on the opening 2009 price, but the 2009 is now trading at over £700 per case and will continue to head north, so it looks like a shrewd buy. Hopefully, this won't be seen as a green light to other Chateaux to put their prices up too – Beychevelle is a bit of a special case...
Soon after Beychevelle came Cantemerle. This elegant 5eme Cru Classé has been producing exceptional wines for the last decade. The 2009 was sumptuous, seductive stuff – the 2010 is equally alluring; a wine of great class and finesse. We were really impressed by the purity, concentration and the gentle tannic structure here – it is thoroughly deserving of its 91-93 points from Robert Parker.
'A quintessentially elegant style of Bordeaux, the opaque ruby/purple-tinged 2010 Cantemerle possesses elegant floral notes intermixed with hints of blueberries, raspberries, sweet red cherries and currants. Medium-bodied with impressive purity, concentration and texture, it is not a heavyweight, but rather a well-proportioned, stylish red that should drink nicely for 15-20 years`. Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194

Bordeaux 2010 - The 'best value' buys of 2010

2011-05-18T10:01:00.000+01:00

Have you ever wondered what the J&B team buy from primeur campaigns? It's not Le Pin and Ausone as you may expect, we are a pretty tough team to please – we're some of the most demanding customers we have. We expect exceptional quality and we don't want to pay through the roof for it. There are two wines that always meet the criteria. Paul and Cedric Valade's Chateau Valade from St Emilion and Luc Thienpont's Villa des Quatre Soeurs from Margaux.
Let's tackle Luc's Margaux first. This is produced from 60-80 year old vines situated between the villages of Soussans and Tayac. The plot itself is a minute 1.5Ha based on deep Garonne gravels. Luc's oenologist is none other than Jacques Boissenot, consultant to all of the First Growths, and aging takes place in French Oak barrels for 18-20 months. As you can see, Luc takes this project very seriously, and all the hard work shows. We all fell head over heels for this little beauty.
Over on the other side of the river, Paul and Cedric Valade, the eponymous owners of our 'best value' wine of the vintage, are clearly delighted with their acquisition. This is only the fourth vintage, but it looks set to be a real hit. The 2009 was incredible, but sadly hail accounted for about half of the crop. 2010, despite small berries and uneven flowering has produced a healthier yield. Great news for those demanding, price conscious Claret drinkers (like the staff here...). Hurry to buy a case before the Chairman buys it all.

Bordeaux 2010 - Ormes de Pez and Puygueraud

2011-05-17T17:20:00.000+01:00

This afternoon sees the release of Jean-Michel Cazes' St Estephe property Ormes de Pez. We were amazed by the improvements achieved in 2009 and we are pleased to report that the 2010 continues the fine form. Some have deemed it a 'baby Lynch', such is the quality and the unmistakable Lynch style. In truth, this is no baby, this is a large scale, impressive St Estephe.

The vineyards are situated in two plots, one north and one south of St Estephe town. Both are based on gravel and sand and are planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Lynch Bages' wine making team, led by Daniel Llose are making qualitative leaps here. We firmly believe that this Cru Bourgeois will be one of the outstanding values from the 2010 campaign.

Also new to the latest releases list is Château Puygueraud. This Thienpont estate in the Côtes de Francs has made a sensational 2010 and could be an estate to watch in the future. A Merlot dominated blend with a shot of Malbec, this exhibits a plush core of soft ripe fruit and complex notes of sweet earth and forest floor. All the critics have given the thumbs up, with James Suckling awarding a staggering 92-93 points. A lot of bang for the buck!

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Gazin

2011-05-17T17:17:00.000+01:00

UGC Pomerol is usually something of a roller-coaster; some good, some bad and some slightly scary. The elite Pomerols produced by the Thienponts, Moueixs, Guinaudeaus, Rothschilds and Monsieur Durantou do not show, but there are still several exalted names such as Clinet, Conseillante and Gazin amongst the exhibitors. In what is probably the smallest Union tasting, there is a diverse array of styles and expressions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, from the sandy soils near Libourne to the clay and gravel terroirs of the Plateau.

Chateau Gazin is situated on the most westerly corner of the plateau next to the vineyards of Petrus and Evangile. Recent vintages have been impressive. The style has been big, powerful and tannic, so in this vintage of record concentration, record alcohols and record tannins, we braced ourselves to taste... What we found was one of the most graceful and elegant wines from the right bank. Extractions appear to be lighter and whilst this is still dense, with immense fruit content, it is also very detailed and framed with sumptuous tannins. Along with La Conseillante, one of the peeks.

We have also seen the release of AXAs Sauternes property, Chateau Suduiraut. We sampled this at Pichon Baron and at the Sauternes UGC and it was one of the top performing sweeties that we tasted. At almost £100 less than the 2009 and with 94-96 points from Neal Martin, this should appeal to those with a penchant for stickies.

Bordeaux 2010 - Video: Jean-Guillaume Prats, Cos d'Estournel

2011-05-16T09:54:00.001+01:00

Bordeaux 2010 - Jean-Guillaume Prats, Director of Cos d'Estournel on what makes his 2010 so compelling and the differences between it and his majestic 2009.

The wines of François Mitjavile

2011-05-16T09:47:00.001+01:00

François Mitjavile is one of the most philosophical characters in Bordeaux and is usually one of the most verbose too, so we were astonished when he retorted to our 'un mot' question with consummate ease... If you haven't already seen it, there is a link to 'un mot' below.

Arriving at his tranquil estate in the commune of St.Laurent-des-Combes on a beautiful, hot, spring evening in April, the J&B team descended into the pitch black vaults to taste. It was only when we were groping around for a banister that we realised sun glasses were no longer necessary. François' cellar is like being teleported to the Cote d'Or. There's nothing futuristic or glitzy, just cold stone walls and a gutter to spit in (reluctantly). It is always one of our favourite tastings as the wines are as colourful as the man himself. Roc de Cambes 2010 is the finest effort to date in our opinion. It is decadent, opulent, hedonistic, sumptuous, yet possesses classical freshness, velvety tannins and impeccable balance.

The Tertre is something of an orgy of flavours in a glass. To use a Parkerism (a man not too popular in this particular corner of St Emilion...), this is a `prodigious` effort. An utterly intoxicating, exotic, flamboyant Tertre Roteboeuf, but as with the sister property, one is not overwhelmed; balance is the key. Some merchants are linking François' wines on a 2:1 basis (2 Roc with 1 Tertre). We don't think that this is necessary as the Roc de Cambes sells itself. You can buy a case of Tertre Roteboeuf on its own, but you'd be mad to miss out on the Roc de Cambes!

On another calm day on the Place, we have only seen two other releases of note. Olivier Casteja's wonderful Doisy Vedrines; always one of the best value Barsacs and Lafaurie Peyraguey, a 1er Cru Classé Sauternes. The 2010 sweeties will almost certainly be overlooked as it is the reds that will capture all the headlines, however, there are some really attractive dessert wines and at £245 per case, you can't go wrong with the Doisy Vedrines.

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Providence

2011-05-13T17:54:00.000+01:00

Right at the heart of the plateau in Pomerol lies Providence, a beautifully restored, elegant Chateau surrounded by ten acres of vines. Neighbours include exalted names such as Hosanna and Certan de May. Although a relative newcomer, Providence has been heaped with praise by Robert Parker, James Suckling, Jancis Robinson et al and is quickly establishing itself as one of the leading properties in the commune.

For many years the estate was owned and managed by the Dupuy family, who tended the vines with devotion, but lacked a little technical savoir faire. JP Moueix, ever alert to a good opportunity, spotted the potential and purchased the estate in time for the 2005 vintage. Since then the cellar and tank rooms have been rebuilt, the chateau has been blasted until it gleams and the Moueix team have implemented several changes in the vineyards. The results are staggering. Now that the Moueix team are achieving the full potential from the vineyard, the wines are consistently amongst the best performers in this star studded commune. The cépage is typically 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, grown on the well suited clay and gravel soils of the plateau.

The 2010 is a sensational wine with wonderful tension and minerality. We found it even more stylish than the flamboyant 2009; a truly seductive, harmonious and aristocratic Pomerol. Bravo.

'Resurrected by Christian Moueix, Providence is made in a muscular, macho style with considerable minerality as well as dense plum, blackberry and black currant fruit, a formidable quantity of tannin and stunning depth and richness. The classic 2010 is similar in style and personality to that of the great Moueix estate of Chateau Trotanoy. Forget it for 5-6 years and drink it over the following 25-30 years. 92-94+/100`. - Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194.

Bordeaux 2010 Video: Charles Chevallier, Chateau Lafite

2011-05-09T10:23:00.001+01:00

The director of the hottest Chateau in Bordeaux talks to Hew Blair and gives a very interesting, succinct comparison between 2009 and 2010. If you wanted to describe the differences between the two vintages in a single sentence you'd be hard pushed to do it better than this...

Bordeaux 2010 - Un Mot

2011-05-08T10:57:00.000+01:00

We asked some of the greatest names in Bordeaux the impossible question, namely to sum up their 2010 vintage in a single word. Never normally a set of winemakers to be short of words, this simple question provoked some thought provoking answers, and no shortage of umms and errs..

Featuring the men and women behind: Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Yquem, Ausone, Calon Segur, Montrose, Ducru Beaucaillou, Grand Puy Lacoste, Evangile, Conseillante, Le Pin, Petrus, Tertre Roteboeuf, Providence, Lynch Bages, and many more...

p.s. It is quite a large file so you might want to give it a minute or so to load up.

Reading between the lines...

2011-05-05T16:09:00.006+01:00

So, Big Bob’s scores are out. 2010, as we all expected has been hailed as another exceptional vintage by the world’s most influential wine critic. There are plenty of potential hundred pointers to get consumers very excited, but as virtually no wines have been released we will focus on the reassessment of the 2008s.

Parker’s initial appraisal breathed life into a subdued market, battered by financial uncertainty and seemingly disinterested with Bordeaux 2008. The campaign was going nowhere until issue 182 of the Wine Advocate started landing on peoples’ doorsteps. High scores and high praise for the wines turned the campaign around and many customers bagged themselves a bargain. Unfortunately, Mr P wasn’t aware of what was to come (in 2009 and 2010).

So with hindsight we can say that he over egged the `08s a little, and as such most scores have been re-evaluated to the lower end of their initial range. Some have been downgraded a little further still, but those who read the notes will see that he is still a huge fan of these wines. The headline grabbers are Lafite and Ausone, both with 98/100. Praise and high points are heaped particularly on the wines from Pomerol and Graves and there are many 90+ point wines that won’t break the bank including the exceptional Chateau Poujeaux.

Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, Margaux & The Haut Medoc

2011-04-15T14:05:00.002+01:00

In which Hew opines on his favourite Margaux properties in 2010, and his top value bargains from the Haut-Medoc...

Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, The Medoc

2011-04-13T12:55:00.003+01:00

The road trip continues...Hew discloses his top picks from the Medoc and muses on the new popularity for having horses do the work that tractors would otherwise have been employed for...

Join the great `09/`10 debate

2011-04-12T14:33:00.000+01:00

Call us sceptics, but we left for Bordeaux confident that 2009 was the greatest vintage we have ever tasted from barrel, and sure that 2010 would not live up to its distinguished predecessor. After a week of at times gruelling tastings, it is clear the 2010 rivals and could even surpass 2009. This is perplexing to say the least. 2009 enjoyed a near perfect growing season, 2010 did not. Poor flowering dramatically reduced yields; there was no talk of green harvests this year... In fact this was a bit of good fortune as the vines could not have coped through one of the most severe droughts in living memory with a full crop. This is a vintage characterised by a shortage of water, lots of sunshine and little extreme heat.

It wasn’t until the harvest started in perfect conditions that vignerons realised what potential the 2010s possessed. Analysis revealed that the tiny berries were super-concentrated, have huge tannin levels, wonderful acidity and big potential alcohols. One member of the team called the wines Neo-Classical; i.e. they are classically balanced but in an altogether new, bigger style. You could argue that they are Post Neo-Classical as vintages such as 2000 and 2005 are Neo-Classical and 2010 offers something altogether different. These are immense wines from top to bottom. In fact we were impressed by the consistency and quality of many petit chateaux. Words such as ‘monumental’ and ‘aristocratic’ have been used to describe the 2010s. They don’t possess the flamboyant character of the 2009s; they are at times reserved and brooding, but always powerful, intense, balanced and will no doubt last for many years.

In truth, it is impossible to favour one vintage; both are exceptional. Opinions are divided now and they will continue to be split for the next thirty or more years as these wines evolve. We stand by our comments last year – 2009 was and still is exceptional; at the time the greatest primeur tastings in living memory. We didn’t have the benefit of foresight... Now that we have tasted the 2010s there could be a new contender, but only time will tell. Much as the `28s and `29s have and continue to arouse discourse, the `09s and `10s have started a new debate.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Masterclass – Monday, 18 April

2011-04-12T14:22:00.005+01:00

A celebration of Châteauneuf-du-Pape!

Justerini & Brooks are excited to host a tasting featuring Châteauneuf-du-Pape in all its glory at the fabulous French restaurant, Boundary, in Shoreditch. On offer will be an exquisite range of wines from Château Mont Redon, Domaine Jean Paul Versino/ Bois du Boursan, Vieux Télégraphe and Château de Beaucastel. The tasting will explore the varying styles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and will investigate the complexities of this historic appellation accross different vintages, all this around a selection of great Charcuteries and Canapés. Visit http://www.theboundary.co.uk/news/chateau-boundary/chateauneuf-du-pape-masterclass-monday-18-april-2011/index.php for further details and booking.

Voyager Estate - The Final Harvest Update April 2011

2011-04-12T12:03:00.007+01:00

The final instalment of Voyager Estate’s harvest report.

"Similar to last year - we had just finished tipping our last bin of Cabernet Sauvignon into the de-stemmer and the rain started to fall. The harvest which commenced on the 9th of Feb and concluded on the 6th of April will be remembered for the warm and humid February and the perfect March weather which finished the reds off beautifully.

It was a season where patience was rewarded, as it was important to wait for the Cabernet Sauvignon and give it some hang time to ensure the tannins were fully ripe. Those who waited will make outstanding wines, with great concentration and fine, ripe, silky tannins.

The condition of the vine canopies at harvest was the best I have ever seen, with no sign of yellow leaves due to some timely midsummer rain. However, the fruit still showed evidence of the dry growing season, with small, deeply coloured berries and thick skins. Consequently the yields were quite low and came in just under our targeted range at around one and a half tonnes per acre.

The excellent quality of the grapes will see the fruit from most of our best vineyards spend a couple of weeks left on skins after fermentation which contributes great complexity and tannin structure to the wine.
Most of the Shiraz vineyards have completed fermentation and are looking fantastic with rich dark and red berry fruit and fine, complex layered tannins.

We have just started blending our Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon which looks great and the Chardonnay is potentially exceptional. The consistency of this region never ceases to amaze me and it really does fit the description as a "viticulturist’s paradise".

Cheers, Steve James"

Bordeaux 2010 - Video Interview with J-M Laporte, La Conseillante

2011-04-07T21:36:00.003+01:00

As the debate rages as to whether 2010 is better than 2009 all we can say is that we would dearly love to have both in our cellar. Jean-Michel gives us a clue as to why that might be...

Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, Pomerol

2011-04-07T21:21:00.004+01:00

The inimitable Hew Blair on the highlights from Pomerol in this most extraordinary of vintages...

Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, St Emilion

2011-04-07T07:49:00.004+01:00

Bordeaux 2010 - Video Interview with Edouard Moueix

2011-04-07T07:26:00.003+01:00

Edouard Moueix, one of Bordeaux's most charming characters, talks 2010, 2009, 1990, 1989....

Bordeaux UGC Week - Days Two & Three

2011-04-07T07:06:00.001+01:00

There are some incredibly impressive wines this year. Embarrassingly impressive if you're Bordelais.

Our second day on the right bank gave us beauties such as Tertre Roteboeuf, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Evangile, Gazin, Pavie Macquin, Troplong Mondot and Figeac. There were plenty of others, as there always are that side of the Gironde, too ripe, too extracted, too chewy, who shall remain nameless.

At the lower, shall we say more value end there are nevertheless some definite finds. Tour du Pin, Fleur de Bouard, Teyssier, La Chenade, Petite Eglise, Fonbel, Moulin St Georges and Valade all hit the spot and would be excellent additions to any cellar.

Heading west the highlights thus far have blown us away. The obvious stars of Lafite, Cos d'Estournel, Montrose, Las Cases, Ducru Beaucaillou, Pontet Canet, Lynch Bages and Pichon Lalande have all shone brightly, so brightly they will no doubt burn a hole in many a pocket. But for those with less firepower there are some supremely intense and precise wines that will provide serious enjoyment for many years to come. Both Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut Batailley took our collective breath away. Branaire-Ducru, Gruaud Larose, Haut Marbuzet, both Bartons and Sainte Pierre were all terrific. The best of these wines possess such enormous detail, freshness and refinement as to have left us at times rendered speechless. Could there be a better complimentary vintage to 2009?

And now for something completely different...

2011-04-05T07:42:00.005+01:00

It wasn’t all work work work yesterday. We enjoyed a splendid lunch as Chateau Conseillante where we were lucky enough to taste some magnificent back vintages including a magnum of the '45. Most of us assumed that this would be the oldest wine of the day or even the week, but the accolade didn’t last long...

In the evening we had dinner with the superstar winemaker, negociant and general human dynamo, Denis Durantou. Denis is always extraordinarily generous, but last night’s feast was something to behold. Between cabaret from the eccentric but charming Rene Gabriel we enjoyed a fabulous vertical of Eglise Clinet. We started with the '29 (which we are quite confident will be the oldest wine we taste this week and for many weeks...). This was still brimming with life, a wonderfully vibrant example and one with a lovely story as this was the wine that inspired a young (9yo) Denis to become a winemaker; the rest as they say is history. Then followed the '54, '64, '55 and '85. It is hard to pick one vintage out as all were thrilling, however, perhaps particular mention should go to the '55, which was the baby of the flight and received 20/20 from this humble writer. Many thanks Denis for a splendid evening and congratulations on an outstanding 2010.

Bordeaux UGC Week - Day one

2011-04-05T07:16:00.004+01:00

The question on everyone's lips this year is, can 2010 be better than 2009? Whilst it is almost certainly too early to say with any real conviction (though many seem convinced otherwise), our first day here on the right bank has thrown up some very interesting comparisons. At La Conseillante we were treated to a wonderful vertical that began with the 2010 and 2009 side by side. If the 2009, having taken on plenty of weight over the past 12 months, is gorgeous in its exuberance, the 2010 is a model of muscled, polished intensity.

At Tertre Roteboeuf we were again allowed to taste these two twin vintages side by side and the comparison split the group over its preference. Both were magnificent, opulent and hedonistic. Could one be called better than the other? Very hard to say...

At Eglise Clinet we tasted a 2010 that might well have had the edge over 2009, at Ausone we almost certainly did, and at Clos l'Eglise I think we were almost unanimous. But at our other appointments it was perhaps just too close to call.

2010 is undoubtedly a firmer more powerful vintage than 2009. The wines we have tasted do not have the opulence, voluptuousness or succulence of their 2009 siblings but they do have increased acidity and with it freshness, more prominent tannic spines, and in some cases increased aromatics. These huge raw materials have created in the right hands, wines of real significance and importance.

Some of yesterdays most exciting wines:

Lafleur

Eglise Clinet

Providence

VCC

Conseillante

Clos l'Eglise

Angelus

Le Pin

Ausone

Tertre Rotebeuf

And for value:

Ch la Grande Maye

Ch Valade, St Emilion

Ch La Chenade

Ch Fonbel

Bordeaux 2010 UGC week

2011-03-30T16:34:00.007+01:00

It’s very nearly that time of year again – this weekend we’ll be packing our cords and Sensodyne and heading south to taste the latest barrel samples from Bordeaux. There are a few changes to the program: sadly, our annual cricket match against the Bordeaux XI has been cancelled, and following a request/demand from our Chairman – we will be turning our schedule on its head. We will be taking on the Right Bank first, followed by the Medoc. Hopefully the rest of the trade will stick to the conventional slog through the Left Bank on Monday and Tuesday and leave us to taste Pomerol and St Emilion in relative tranquillity...

We will cover more than 200 samples and visiting almost 50 Chateaux over the five days. @Justerinis and @BordeauxBuyer will both be blogging from the Espace (but not whilst at the wheel), and when the tastings have finished, we’ll be spending our evenings blogging and facebooking. So, whatever your choice of social media, you’ll be able to keep up to date with our progress and discover the highs and lows of this fascinating vintage.

"Outstanding" wines from 2008 - The wines

2011-03-29T09:39:00.002+01:00

Chevillon, Robert

Nuits St.-Georges “Les Chaignots”: from a 1.5 ha parcel that blends 40+ and 60+ year old vines

A spicy and wonderfully complex nose of red berry liqueur, violets and earth notes, the latter of which continues onto the pure, refined and poised middle weight flavors that possess outstanding balance and excellent length. This is really quite lovely if entirely serious and I admire how fine the tannins are. Note that this will require at least a decade to be at its best. 91/100, drink from 2018+

12 x 75cl - £365/case in bond

Clair, Bruno

Savigny-lès-Beaune “La Dominode: from vines planted in 1902

A ripe and dense nose of high-toned red pinot fruit cut with ample amounts of plum, violets and Savigny-style earth that are very much in keeping with the rich, full, delicious and serious medium weight flavors that finish with fine intensity and plenty of sappy extract. The old vines and low yields are very much in evidence because in addition to the impressive intensity and sap, there is very good phenolic ripeness. 91/100, drink from 2016+

12 x 75cl - £360/case in bond

Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Cazetiers”: from 40+ year old vines

A classic Gevrey nose of superb complexity displays distinctly sauvage notes on the intensely earthy and underbrush-suffused red berry fruit aromas that also show a hint of crushed leaf character merge seamlessly into very rich and full-bodied flavors where the tannic spine is prominent and firm on the strikingly long finish. Though patience will certainly be required, there is enough extract present that this should not be unduly austere once it begins to mature though note that it is very austere and backward at present. 92/100, drink from 2020+

12 x 75cl - £645/case in bond

Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos St. Jacques”: from a 1 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines

An ultra elegant, cool, refined and layered nose of stone-infused red pinot fruit from crushed leaf aromas complements to perfection the textured, gorgeously detailed and driving middle weight flavors where the wonderfully persistent though presently austere and linear finish seems to be constructed over a firm base of minerality. Terrific. 93/100, drink from 2020+

12 x 75cl - £785/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £810/case in bond

Chambertin – Clos de Bèze: two-thirds of the vines were planted in 1912 and the remainder in 1973

Discreet wood influence surrounds the intensely spicy and earthy nose that is at once elegant yet animale and this sauvage character extends to the very rich, powerful and well-muscled flavors that possess a seductively textured yet firm finish of imposing length. This is a big but focused Bèze that has already begun to shut down. Patience will be required. 94/100, drink from 2023+

12 x 75cl - £1095/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £1120/case in bond

Gouges, Henri

Nuits St.-Georges “Les St.-Georges”: 55+ year old vines

A more elegant but cool and reserved nose of exceptionally pure red berry and plum aromas also possesses notes of earth and underbrush that transfer seamlessly over to the rich, full and focused medium weight plus flavors that are actually quite supple and round but where this really distinguishes itself from the Vaucrains is the seriously impressive depth on the moderately austere and mildly herbal but hugely long finish. Like the Vaucrains, this will need plenty of time. 92/100, drink from 2018+

12 x 75cl - £695/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £710/case in bond

Grivot, Jean

Nuits St.-Georges “Les Boudots”: from 70+ year old vines

This is a classic Boudots with its half Vosne from half Nuits personality as the aromatic profile is both ripe and spicy, offering an herb-infused mix of red pinot and plum fruit notes that complement the rich, powerful and serious full-bodied flavors that possess solid dry extract level that confers a textured mouth feel by virtue of buffering the very firm and mouth coating tannins. This will require patience. 91/100, drink from 2018+

12 x 75cl - £625/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £645/case in bond

Clos de Vougeot: 50+ year old vines

A discreet touch of wood frames strikingly complex, ripe, fresh and quite densely fruited earth suffused red pinot aromas that lead to rich, full-bodied and textured flavors that exude an overt muscularity on the equally explosive finish where the integrated tannins confer a dusty mouth feel to the moderately austere finale. This is an extremely impressive effort but note that even more patience will be required. 94/100, drink from 2023+

12 x 75cl - £750/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £770/case in bond

Clos des Lambrays

Clos des Lambrays: produced from two large parcels of differing vine age - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 45 years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 20+ years of age)

The deeply pitched nose evidences obvious earth and floral influences on the mostly ripe red pinot fruit aromas that complement the rich, pure and detailed medium weight flavors that culminate in a dusty and mouth coating finish where the supporting tannins display a clear stem influence. This is an excellent wine though it may not be to everyone’s taste due to the obvious stem character. 93/100, drink from 2020+

12 x 75cl - £770/case in bond

Mortet, Denis

Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”

An expressive nose of herbal, plum and wet stone merges seamlessly into fresh and pure flavors that are really quite fine detailed and supported by equally fine tannins on the classy, tension-filled and moderately austere finish. I quite like this but there is enough austerity present that it won’t be for everyone. 91/100, drink from 2016+

12 x 75cl - £810/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £830/case in bond

Clos de Vougeot: from a .32 ha parcel of vines just below those of Château de la Tour in the lower middle of the slope

This is the ripest of this group of ‘08s with a very earthy nose of plum, cassis and mocha hints that lead to reserved big-bodied flavors that enjoy excellent mid-palate concentration as there is ample extract that buffers the firmly tannic spine on the powerful and long finish. 92/100, drink from 2018+

6 x 150cl - £1670/case in bond

Mugnier, Jacques Frederic

Nuits St. Georges “Clos de la Maréchale”

A distinctly earthy and anise-infused mix of sour cherry and blue berry fruit that displays whiffs of crushed herbs and pepper merges into detailed, pure and almost delicate middle weight flavors that possess a sophisticated mouth feel and fine length. I should point out though that while there is no rusticity present, the very firm tannins are not as refined as those of the Fuées. 90/100, drink from 2016+

12 x 75cl - £410/case in bond 6 x 150cl - £420/case in bond

All notes are taken from Burghound issue 41 (2011).

"Outstanding" wines from 2008 - The Allen Meadows verdict

2011-03-28T16:13:00.003+01:00

Allen Meadows, aka the `Burghound` is celebrating 10 years of his online publication devoted to all things pinot, particularly, as the title suggests, Burgundy. Amongst the furore of the 2009s, it would have been easy to miss Monsieur Meadows' reassessment of the 2008s. He doesn't have the temerity to suggest that they usurp their more precocious siblings, but as we've said all along, there are some excellent 2008s out there that may well prove more appealing to Burgundy connoisseurs than said `09s.

` The best '08s are fresh, intense, bright, vibrant and very terroir driven - in short it's a classic Burgundian vintage. And as I noted in my vintage analysis last year, it is on the whole more interesting than either 2007 or 2006. And in a few cases, the wines are truly brilliant so don't overlook them`.

Much like Bordeaux, 2008 is something of a miraculous vintage in the Cote d'Or. Initially all interest focussed on the exceptional Chablis and white wines from the Cote de Beaune, however, tastings defy the meteorologists' findings. 2008 was another sad summer in Burgundy. September once again proved pivotal to the success of the vintage. As in 2002, a cool North wind blew and brought dry sunny conditions. This combination concentrated the grapes and averted the risk of rot. As is customary with this region, it was not a simple case of thanking Mother Nature, there was much work required if vignerons were to produce great wines. Canopy management was key to allowing aeration and exposure to light, whilst de-selection played a vital role for quality focussed domaines.

2008 is not a uniform vintage; consistent Burgundy vintages are about as rare as hen's teeth. This is a good old fashioned, labour intensive vintage, where the good and the great shine and the others are best forgotten about. We have selected a few of our favourites that have achieved the coveted `outstanding` rating (90-94 points, ` worth a special effort to purchase and cellar and will provide memorable drinking experiences` - AM). We agree, the charm, focus and poise of these wines, combined with the noble flavours and exquisite balance make these worthy additions to the cellar.

For those more au fait with the American critics who cover Bordeaux, it is worth pointing out that Mr Meadows is notoriously mean with his scores. Only a very select group of wines ever breach the 95 point mark: La Romanee, La Tache, Romanee Conti and the top wines from Leroy, Rousseau and de Vogue occasionally manage this feat...

Video interview: Chris Howell from Cain Cellars

2011-03-25T15:12:00.005Z

Chris Howell was in town recently and came to see us in St James’s Street. He is one of Napa’s most thoughtful men, producing some of Napa’s most elegant wines, and what he has to say is invariably fascinating.

Voyager Estate - Harvest News March 2011

2011-03-25T15:08:00.004Z

“This week has seen the completion of the Shiraz and Merlot fruit into the winery. The yields have been spot on our targets for these varieties at close to 2 tonnes per acre, and the fruit looks excellent with great colour and concentration.

The first picks of Cabernet Sauvignon have started to come in, and the early signs look very promising. The first Cabernet fruit we harvest is off a small block in the Wilyabrup sub region of Margaret River, which is located about 25 Kms north of our estate. It is slightly warmer and provides us with an exceptional batch of fruit we use in our Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot wine. The top fruit from this sub region is always characterised with lovely fresh Mulberry fruit and fine silky tannins whereas the fruit from our top Estate vineyard blocks displays dark cassis fruit with more structural tannins. The small portion of this Wilyabrup fruit adds some mid palate sweetness to the wine and is an important component of our style.

Next week is looking very busy with most of the Estate Cabernet being harvested. The weather is holding up beautifully with warm days and cool nights which are perfect for fully ripening the tannins and concentrating the flavours.

Cheers, Steve James”

Brunello - Beauty and the Beast

2011-03-23T18:04:00.003Z

3 planes in 3 days. The jet set lifestyle is starting to feel like the jet lag lifestyle. But its been in a very worthy and enjoyable cause.. Hopefully by tasting and, eventually importing, some delightful wines with incredibly strong green credentials, I have been able to offset this rather nasty carbon footprint! One such wine is Etna rosso and its crus from the Terre Nere estate. A truely remarkable and marginal vineyard area of rugged beauty,rooted on the rocky, scorched soils of Etna's north facing slopes. Their 2008s, now in bottle, must be saught out, they are totally sublime, whilst the trickier 2009 vintage still yielded an unforgettable prephylloxera cuvee. It goes to show there is no substitute for good vines, planted in the right place and tended with care.

Anyway, onto Brunello di Montalcino. It is a wine of many sides, as indeed, is the vineyard area. Many people's preconceptions is of a wine that must be massive, heady and raisiny but this does not have to be the case.
It may never be a shrinking violet but I can say that over the last 2 days I have tasted pure, enormously drinkable expressions of Sangiovese. Le Ragnaie was one of them, at 550 metres the highest vineyard in Montalcino, as airy and beautiful as the vineyard from which it is made. Siro Pacenti was another, from vineyards on the north and south side of Montalcino, there is a very gentle modern sheen to this but its beauty, balance and depth is crystal clear. A real treat, too, was Soldera, as elegant and complete a Brunello as you will find. One cuvee is made, a riserva, produced from organically farmed vines, fermented with natural yeasts and aged in large oak vat for 5 years.

The Brunello vintage to be released this year will be 2006, a vintage that has produced some really complete and composed wines that mix structure, ripe elegant fruit and freshness. A very good year indeed that should prove most ageworthy.

Bordeaux 2010 - Twitter, Facebook, a Social Media Frenzy...

2011-03-21T15:38:00.014Z

The dust seems hardly to have settled on the 2009 Campaign and once again the team is joined together in collective fast as another week of Bordeaux En Primeur tasting looms. This annual marathon des calories is an epic of morning till night tasting interspersed liberally with plate upon plate of rich gallic cuisine that at times seems quite decadent and at other times downright unhealthy. It is not for the faint hearted but as per usual, in a little over a week, a full team of 8 will be intrepidly heading south, so that we might give as balanced and as in depth a view as is possible. If in the coming months one of us is advising you on what to buy in 2010 you can be sure we will have been there and tasted...

Throughout the week we will be supplying regular updates via a host of media. In a thoroughly modern embracing of the wonders of newfangled technologies the J&B team updates can now be found on Facebook (here) and Twitter (here and here) as well as our website and the blog. We will be posting and tweeting video interviews, tasting notes, very first impressions, daily updates and of course our hugely popular Hew's Views series so that you can have a first hand opinion of what the vintage holds in store.

Clos de Tart 2009 Releases

2011-03-18T14:39:00.004Z

In a vintage like 2009, where the clamour for top end Red Burgundy has reached never before seen levels of fervour, the release of a monopole Grand Cru such as Clos de Tart is bound to cause something of a buzz.

Tim Atkin describes it as "potentially amazing," ; Michel Bettane thinks this wine could become a thing of legend; Allen Meadows, the Burghound, classes it as one of his "Don't miss" wines of the vintage; for our part we consider it to be one of their great vintages.

As exclusive agents in both Singapore and Indonesia we are delighted to announce its release in these countries.

Video: Teso La Monja - Otherworldly Tinta de Toro

2011-03-16T14:48:00.000Z

Eduardo Eguren tells us about the new Eguren venture in Toro, Teso La Monja. Old vines, often ungrafted, planted at elevation: the wines are magical, super elegant examples of Tinta da Toro. As Eduardo says, they might be the same variety as found in Rioja, but they drink as if from another world.

Voyager Estate - Harvest News March 2011 (V)

2011-03-15T14:49:00.004Z

Part five of Steve James’ Harvest Update as we follow the progress at Voyager Estate. The Shiraz is in, which leaves just Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to be harvested...

"The warm tropical weather has finally subsided and we are now enjoying classic Margaret River autumn weather, comprising beautiful warm, sunny days with cool nights. Perfect conditions for finishing off the red grapes which we started harvesting on Tuesday 8th March. Most of the Shiraz has been harvested and is showing amazing depth of colour with great concentration of ripe fruit flavours and excellent tannin structure. Due to the kind weather conditions, we have been selectively harvesting small batches on most days, and will complete the Shiraz early next week.

The Merlot is nearly ready, and we expect to commence harvesting this early next week with the Cabernet Sauvignon not long after. Our final red grape harvested is Petit Verdot which we love to blend into our Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot for its violet like aromatics and structural contribution to the palate. The weather forecast for the next week or so is very good, so we will continue selective harvesting of small batches which enables us to harvest each small patch at optimum ripeness. The Chardonnay has nearly finished fermentation in barrel, and a tasting late last week showed our early excitement to be well justified. Hopefully the weather will hold out for another couple of weeks to give the Cabernet Sauvignon a bit more hang time to complete another outstanding vintage for the region.

Cheers, Steve James."

Market Update

2011-03-15T14:08:00.006Z

Amid the general unease about the state of the global economy, we are frequently quizzed about the health of the wine market. The last data released by Liv-ex showed the Liv-ex 100 up 3.9% at 444.55; a year on year rise of just over 41%. This sustained rally has largely been due to the enormous demand for First Growths in the rapidly expanding Chinese market. New figures now confirm that the so called `Super Seconds` have been pitching in too. Brands such as Lynch Bages and Pontet Canet (both technically 5th growths...) along with the likes of Montrose, Cos d’Estournel, both the Pichons, Leoville Las Cases and Ducru Beaucaillou have enjoyed steady (if not spectacular) gains.

Of course, events in Japan, stratospheric prices for First Growths and the impending 2010 Bordeaux campaign have the potential to bring an abrupt end to the bull-run; but only time will tell. At present, Haut Brion and Mouton Rothschild are enjoying the top spot (in terms of demand if not price) and the `Super Seconds` still look attractive to those seeking First Growth quality without the price tag.

Voyager Estate - Harvest News March 2011 (IV)

2011-03-02T10:33:00.009Z

Steve James making us feel as if we are walking along the vineyards with him, soaking in the sun and witnessing the last of the white grapes.

"It has been a busy week with all of our Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon harvested, which basically sees the end of the whites except for a small parcel of Viognier to be harvested with our early picks of Shiraz and co-fermented. The season has delivered excellent flavours for the Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend with a very good palate weight and fruit intensity. The latter harvested batches of Semillon contribute a nice textural component to the wine.

Around 20% of the Semillon portion of this wine is being put to barrel for fermentation, with the aim of building more textural notes and complexity into the wine but without obvious wood character.

The reds are ripening quickly and we are currently spending a lot of time in the field chewing seeds and grape skins - waiting for the optimum tannin ripeness so we can begin the red grape harvest. It looks like we will commence the Shiraz early next week - they are very close but just need a few more days to finish off.

The weather is still warm and dry with slightly cooler conditions forecast for the weekend, which will be a pleasant relief for the vignerons and vines.

Cheers, Steve James."

Voyager Estate - Harvest News Feb 2011 (III)

2011-02-23T10:59:00.010Z

Steve James updates us with news from our benchmark award winning Margaret River Estate. Despite the cyclones on the horizon, things seem to be looking promising.

"Fairly hectic in the winery at the moment as we are in the middle of harvesting our Sauvignon Blanc with our first harvest of Semillon due tonight. The weather has been warm to hot averaging around 32 degrees Celsius during the day, with very mild evenings. Unusually for Margaret River the humidity has been high, with our weather being heavily influenced by the presence of tropical cyclones well to our north - thankfully!The Sauvignon Blanc fruit has been very impressive, with plenty of lovely tropical fruit flavours such as passion fruit, lychee and melon, whilst the Semillon component of the blend is showing the classic citrus flavours we look for with excellent weight and intensity.

The Chardonnay is fermenting beautifully in barrel, and the early signs of an exceptional wine look very encouraging indeed. Our use of new wood on Chardonnay is down to around 30%, as our vineyard is maturing and we are gaining more texture and complexity from the grapes. I expect we will complete the Semillon fruit by early next week, and spend some time walking the vine rows tasting the Shiraz which is also ripening quickly. Early tannin development on the reds looks fantastic, which will give us the luxury of harvesting the fruit with the flavour profiles we look for.

Currently 32 degrees and I can hear the Indian Ocean calling for a late afternoon swim!

Cheers Steve James."

Voyager Estate - Harvest News Feb 2011 (II)

2011-02-21T12:46:00.000Z

"Wednesday 16th February 2011

Our Chardonnay harvest commenced on the 9th February which is the second earliest start to harvest we have experienced. The earliest was 2007 which commenced one day earlier!. Interestingly the seasons are still quite different, with the current season being early due to a very warm and dry spring with mild to warm ripening conditions, as opposed to 2007 which was early due to a hot summer and autumn.

We have been hand harvesting every day and our final Chardonnay pick is scheduled for Saturday 19th Feb. Chardonnay is all hand harvested on our vineyard as we do not crush the fruit but use whole bunch pressing, which assists with the finer more elegant style of Chardonnay we make.

The conditions have been perfect with warm weather albeit slightly more humid than the last few seasons. The fruit is being harvested in excellent condition with very good fruit weight and concentration in the lemon, grapefruit and dried pear flavours we look for with fine natural acidity. The quality of the Chardonnay appears exceptional across all blocks.

The first of the Sauvignon Blanc will be coming off on Thursday evening. The fruit for this wine is machine harvested in the cool of night which helps to preserve the aromatics and fresh vibrant fruit flavours we look for with this style of wine. The flavours have just started to kick in and are showing the signs of fresh tropical fruits with just a hint of herbaceousness. The flavour profile window for this variety is very narrow and combined with the warm ,perfect ripening conditions, I suspect it will be a busy week.

Our vintage team have settled in well and we have representation from France and South Africa this year, so it has been great to compare notes with winemakers from other regions around the world.

Cheers,

Steve James."

Voyager Estate - Harvest News Feb 2011

2011-02-09T16:13:00.005Z

On the other side of the world a country battles with pretty much everything mother nature can throw at it. Flooding, cyclones, and now bush fires (not to mention the England Test XI) have beset the Australian people in the past two months, demonstrating with relentless ease just what a wild and powerful force nature can prove to be.

Some hours south of the recent fires, in the Margaret River region of Western Australia, Steve James and his team are readying themselves for another harvest. Earlier than usual, though as yet untouched by the troubles elsewhere, he has once again agreed to keep us up to date with his progress through the vintage....

Monday 7th Feb 2011

Well - here we go again with another year gone and a new harvest imminent.

We had some nervous moments during the weekend of the 29th and 30th of January. A tropical cyclone was forecast to move down the coast south of Perth, cross the coast about 80 Kms north of Margaret River, and bring gale force winds and buckets of rain!!. Fortunately it hit cold water and fizzled out, resulting in no wind and only a couple of light showers.

Currently our Chardonnay is about 11 Baume with good acid and extremely good early flavour development.

After some sampling and technical analysis followed by a good walk and tasting in the field tomorrow, I suspect we will be commencing our Chardonnay harvest later in the week.

Similar to the 2007 vintage, we are facing a very early harvest. This has been brought about due to the warm and dry spring conditions which resulted in early vine flowering.

Interestingly, all the reds are fully through veraison and are ripening well.

Although an early season, the ripening conditions so far have been close to perfect, with warm weather and no heat spikes.

Fingers crossed the rain the eastern states are receiving stays away and the warm sun shines for another 8 weeks.

I will send an update sometime next week.

Cheers,

Steve James.

Stars of Southwold

2011-01-25T15:23:00.004Z

The sleepy town of Southwold in Suffolk has become home to one of the most thorough and respected blind tastings of Bordeaux wines. A panel of UK buyers and journalist (with literally hundreds of years of experience...) descend on the Crown Hotel to give their verdict. This year it was the turn of the much maligned 2007s.

So, what were the winners and the losers? The best flight of wines unsurprisingly came from Sauternes and Barsac. This included revered names such as de Fargues, Climens, Suduiraut, Rieussec and of course, Chateau Yquem. Yquem 2007 was unequivocally declared the wine of the week and averaged a mighty 19/20 from the panel. All agreed that this was a superb flight and that 2007 is one of the great vintages for sweet Bordeaux. If there had been a little disagreement during the primeur tastings as to whether Climens or Yquem took first place, there was no such debate this time around. (If you are interested in a case of Yquem 2007 for your cellar, please speak to one of our sales team).

Of the reds, Mouton took first place on the left bank with an average score of over 18/20, with non first growth, Leoville Las Cases taking silver. Over on the right bank, Petrus and Cheval Blanc took top billing, but there were strong showings from Eglise Clinet, VCC, Le Pin, Evangile and Providence. The Pomerol plateau obviously hadn’t heard that it was a Cabernet vintage...

To conclude on this rather capricious vintage, the sweeties are sensational and are widely available for less than their 2001 counterparts. The Lesser reds from both banks are generally well made, but often lack a little substance. In some cases the wines are somewhat forced and this shows in the tannins. The best terroirs and those with the means and know-how have created some delicious wines with real character and sufficient structure to age for more than a decade. As one of the learned members of the panel pointed out, wine is supposed to give pleasure; the 1997s did just that, and the 2007s clearly surpass the `97s in every respect. They may not be as intellectual or profound as the so called `great` vintages, but they will be good fun!

End of year report

2011-01-13T10:58:00.007Z

How did the fine wine market fare in 2010? And what of the future?

After some strong re-building in 2009, 2010 always had the potential to be a great year for the fine wine market. The Liv-ex 100 index started the year at 239.36 and rose to a new high of 336.28 by the close, an increase of 40.5%. Lafite Rothschild and second wine Carruades de Lafite continue to lead the way. There is no let up in demand from China for wine’s über-brand. Most vintages of Carruades now trade at over 3.5K/cs and the Grand vin prices head ever further into the stratosphere. The other first growths have also seen big gains in 2010. Mouton Rothschild’s decision to commission Xu Lei to design the label for the 2008 had an overnight impact on the demand for all Mouton vintages. And what of the auspicious 2008 vintage? Much was made of the significance of these lucky numbers before the `08 primeur campaign, but buyers from China never materialised. Now that some wines are available, we expect this to change.

One of the outstanding successes in 2010 was of course the release of the 2009s from Bordeaux. Our tasting team travelled to Bordeaux in April and tasted extensively throughout the Medoc, Graves, Pomerol and St Emillion. The vintage is rightly heralded as one of the greats. We witnessed some of the most decadent, hedonistic, enchanting wines we have ever tasted. Release prices, as we had forewarned were very high, but the demand was even greater. As with previous `greats` (2000, 2005), the record release prices didn’t put consumers off. They also had a knock on affect to older vintages, which comparatively looked cheap!

2011 has started with a bang. Our Burgundy 2009 campaign has broken the records set by the 2005s. Over 450 people attended our tasting and demand for the top wines has been typically voracious. And whilst the very top wines have now been snapped up there are still plenty of wonderful wines to be had from Bourgogne to Grand Cru level. Have a look on our website for full availability. 2010 Bordeaux is potentially very exciting too; a small crop, but the quality is excellent, so there is much to look forward to. We don’t have a crystal ball, but it seems likely that the fine wine market, in near term at the very least, will depend on the evolution of the Chinese market. We are already seeing an increase in demand for super seconds and other top Cru Classés. And why not? The gulf between the firsts and the others has never been greater. Those looking for smart drinking are clearly looking beyond the likes of Mouton and Lafite, and who knows, maybe investors will follow...

Burgundy 2009: An interview with the Bachelet-Monnot Brothers

2010-12-06T11:14:00.003Z

By all accounts they have made another superb Maranges in 2009. This really is a domaine to watch...

Xu Lei unveiled as the latest Mouton Rothschild artist

2010-11-30T11:44:00.005Z

The speculation is over; Mouton 2008 will indeed wear a label painted by a Chinese artist. He’s not exactly a household name, but Xu Lei’s profile is sure to rise amongst wine lovers if no-one else. According to the Chateau's press release, 'Xu Lei's ram asserts the role of a great wine as a link between people and cultures, from one hemisphere to the other of "planet wine"’. Presumably the eastern and western hemispheres...

Conjecture over the nationality of the latest Mouton artist started at the end of 2009 and the price has been rising steadily since. After the announcement, the 2008 has traded at £7800 per case on Liv-ex, some way behind the Lafite 2008 (£13,643/cs), but nevertheless, an enormous increase on its release price (£1750/cs).

Burgundy 2009: An interview with Guillaume d'Angerville

2010-11-25T15:07:00.005Z

In which Giles asks Guillaume about the similarity between the 09 and 05 vintages, and the rise and rise of his Volnay Champans...

Mont Redon Cotes du Rhone 09

2010-11-18T10:54:00.003Z

17 points from at a mere £65 cs ib.

Having sent out a mailer on the deliciousness of Mont Redon's 2009 Cotes du Rhone, it was nice to read Julia Harding's similarly complimentary view of this excellent value little wine on www.jancisrobinson.com

"Ch Mont-Redon 2009 Côtes du Rhône 17 Drink 2011-2014
Bottled. Fresh dark fruit leaps from the glass. Dark cherry and plum. Wonderfully juicy within a well-judged framework. Tannins and acidity both clearly present but playing a supporting role to all that lovely fruit. Fine bite on the end and a long finish. (JH) 14%
£65 per case ib Justerini & Brooks"

2009 Burgundy - Roundup

2010-11-12T13:14:00.005Z

Two weeks, 800 kilometres, and not a vegetable in sight, until, (hurrah!) a solitary carrot was to be found sitting on my supper plate last night. Praise be to the people of Chablis. This morning saw the last of my 46 visits, at the charming Tributs in Poinchy near the town of Chablis. The last stop en route to the A6, Paris-bound. Rather like in the Cote de Beaune, the white wines of Chablis have really surprised me. They have a similar profile to the wines further south: Round, not very high overall acid but distinctly long and fresh, often with a very distinctive minerality, they are certainly not cloying or heavy. Alot of noise is being quite rightly made about the 2009 reds but for the majority of top flight Chardonnay growers who picked early, they have found a tremendous balance in their wines of smooth textures, fruity flavours and long fresh finishes. Talking with Patrick Javillier in Meursault, yesterday, he concluded that although total acidity was not high the low phs indicated a high natural tartaric acid element within the "total acidity" and it is this, he beleives, that is giving the wines such long flavours, even at villages level.

Tuesday and Wednesday were spent pretty well entrenched in Vosne-Romanee, no bad place to be. Domaine Eugenie, Etienne Grivot, Meo-Camuzet, Emmanuel Rouget, Anne Gros, Francois Lamarche, Domaine du Comte Liger Belair, provided a formidable line up. A detour to Cecile Tremblay, then to Morey St Denis to see Louis Remy, Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart completed the tour of the Cote de Nuits.

There are many excellent wines, so fruity open knit yet powerful. Particularly in the Vosne cellars there are some wines that rival the very best vintages. Cecile Tremblay has proved what a sensation she is, her wines have gone to another level, if only there was more if it! In the Chateau du Vosne Romanee cellars at Domaine du Comte Liger Belair, the 2009s are incredible. They are in such a different style to other greats like 2006 or 2005 so it is difficult to compare in terms of quality. However tasting them from barrel they were so gorgeous and seductive, with a deep complexity and enormous length of flavour, that is difficult to think of another vintage that as enjoyable to taste. La Romanee was the icing on the cake, unforgettable.

So there we have it, it seems to be an excellent, seductive style vintage for reds, perhaps most of all with the higher or cooler terroirs in the Cote de Nuits, Volnay and around Corton. Whilst for white wines, a very good and really quite suprising vintage, different to 2008, in most cases equal and certainly superior to 2006, though not quite the level of 2007.

Burgundy 2009 - The Second Half

2010-11-08T22:37:00.004Z

A leisurely weekend saw the buying team take in some 2009s from Sylvain Cathiard, Bruno Clair and Jean-Marc Millot, and more window shopping in and around Beaune's Place Carnot than I care to remember. The rest was good and, though it may not have seemed it at the time, was well needed. For the second half approached. 27 Domaines down, 20 to go until Thursday. Today was spent back in the Cote de Beaune. 8.30am at the affable Vincent Dancer (pictured)in Chassagne was a breeze, such were the poise and moreish minerality of his fine-tuned wines. The wines needed to be particularly good today, the weather has turned and gets fouler, colder and wetter by the minute. Fortunately the wines "turned up on the day", as a premiership football manager might say. Again the cooler zones have proved themselves successful in 2009: Rully, Monthelie, Aloxe Corton and Pernand Vergelesses chez Suremain, Follin and Rollin were all pure, unbridled pleasure. The day finished on a massive high, Ghislaine Barthod has produced one of the most thrilling line ups so far.

Since Saturday there have been some magnificent wines but there are three that stand out, all from the cooler zones of their appellations - Vosne En Orveaux 1er Cru Cathiard, Gevrey Clos St Jacques 1er Cru Bruno Clair and Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees Ghislaine Barthod. Three different wines but all ethereal, haunting and with spine-tingling elegance. If these three don't sit amongst the critics' top spots, then the world is a very unjust place.

Burgundy 2009 - First impressions of the Cote de Nuits

2010-11-05T21:33:00.011Z

There aren't many vintages that would have me leaping out of bed for a tasting in Pernand Vergelesses at 8.15 at the end of a hard week's tasting, but 2009 is proving to be one of them. The last two days have been a tour around 11 Domaines, 2 in the Cote de Beaune and 9 in the Cote de Nuits, among them Chevillon, Leroy, Rousseau, Roumier and Mugnier to drop just a few names. Again, as in the Cotes de Beaune, the key seems to have been picking early in 2009, most Domaines finishing by mid September. Also the cooler terroirs seem to have done particularly well, Latricieres, the high Chambolle and Gevrey vineyards, the cooler parts of Chambertin.

Burgundy seems in rude health, not only are the top growers making good to excellent wines every year but the average age of these top growers seems to be dropping. I have seen two such young stars in the last couple of days. Christian Gouges' nephew, Gregory, has made superb 2009s that mix classic Henri Gouges structure with a fair dose of finesse and baskets full of fruit. They should age seriously well whilst being more approachable in their youth. Its true that THE highlight so far has been an Henri Gouges Les St Georges 1958 thats shows remarkably vivid, youthful fruit, but rather selfishly I want to get some pleasure out of my 2009s and not leave that luxury soley to my children!

The other star is Arnaud Mortet who has arguably been even more successful. I was blown over by the definition and finesse his 2009s show, equal to the intensity the Mortet wines habitually demonstrate. This is a balance never before achieved at Domaine Denis Mortet.

The wine of the day goes to Chevillon's Vaucrains, it left me stuck for words, I have never know it be so expressive and yet retain such concentration and power.

Saturday morning promises the chance of a lie in, Vosne-Romanee at 9.30, followed by Marsannay and then again back down to Nuits. More of that and another taste of the Cote de Beaune on Monday.

Burgundy 2009 - A taste of Cote de Beaune

2010-11-03T22:16:00.003Z

November has come around all too quickly, but so much the better! For the autumnal colours and bright skies are a joy here in Burgundy, and the temperatures are unusually balmy. The first three days of our trip has been spent in the Maconnais and Cote de Beaune.

My expectations were, tentatively, high. These 2009s that appeared so flattering and round in May, will they have lasted a summer in barrel unblemished? The answer is resoundingly yes. Initial reports seemed to indicate a great red vintage but I have found that there are some incredible whites too. Dominque Lafon thinks is the best vintage he has made for white wine, whilst not everyone can say that there plenty of beauties up and down the Cote nonetheless. Certainly those who have picked early, before grapes became too overripe, have made wonderfully balanced Chardonnays, admittedly less racy than in 2007 or 2008 but with absolutely tremendous balance: Silky, ripe, fresh and strong mineral identity, and, it must be said, huge length of flavour even at villages level.

I have not made it to the Cote de Nuits yet but this seems to be a quite excellent vintage for Cote de Beaune reds, particularly Volnay. My tasting with Marquis d'Angerville was exhilirating. Whilst you can not really say for all of the wines that they are better than 2005, I think you can for the Champans, it was simply breathtaking. And as a whole range, from villages upwards, I think they are a hair ahead of 2005. In general the Pinots have the silkiest of textures without losing precision or characteristic varietal bitter-sweetness.

More updates from the Cotes de Nuits on the weekend and over the coming weeks look out for video interviews on the 2009s with some of Burgundy's top growers.

Lucky 8

2010-10-28T11:07:00.005+01:00

There has been much speculation that Chateau Mouton Rothschild would commission a Chinese artist to adorn their 2008 label. But, not to be outmanoeuvred by their neighbour, Chateau Lafite Rothschild has announced that their 2008 bottles will all feature the Chinese symbol for the number eight. Lafite, already the darling of the Chinese market has seen the price for the 2008 soar from £9000/cs to £10,400/cs in just a day.

Cynics may be tempted to say Lafite is cashing in with a shameless marketing gimmick, but I’m sure those who bought a case en primeur will not be complaining too much. A spokesperson from Chateau Lafite said that the ‘shape of the symbol seems to offer a perfect representation of the slopes of the vineyard (in the Penglai peninsula) and commemorates the launch of our Chinese wine project’.

First impressions

2010-10-27T10:15:00.004+01:00

Whilst in Bordeaux last week, Hew and I had the opportunity to revisit a few wines from 2008, 2009 and even got our first glimpse at a 2010. Starting with 2008, the wines of Chateau Latour displayed real breed. The Forts de Latour was somewhat closed, but there is enormous potential here. The Grand vin was by contrast extraordinarily expressive, open and utterly seductive. We also tasted with Denis Durantou at Chateau Eglise Clinet. His 2008 Eglise Clinet is very smart indeed. Flavours are precise, cool and classy; a very serious wine. Denis’ 2009 is off the scales in terms of richness and concentration. It has fleshed out in barrel and is now the most exotic, most decadent Eglise Clinet we have sampled. There is wave after wave of sumptuous velvety fruit – a truly exceptional wine. Denis then shocked us by asking if we would like to try his 2010. He only finished picking on the 2nd of October and there we were on the 19th tasting the final assemblage... Malos will not finish for some time, but the colour was an incredibly vivid purple and the wine was already displaying great depth of flavour and big structure.

Analytically, the 2010s are off the charts. Sugar levels are exceptionally high, whilst the lack of rain has resulted in tiny berries with thick skins, so we can expect good colours and lots of structure. We look forward to tasting more in April...

Bordeaux UGC - The 2008s

2010-10-19T16:52:00.003+01:00

The Bordeaux circus rolled into town today. There was not too much talk of industrial action and petrol supplies running out; we were all gathered to re-taste the fascinating 2008s. Many of the Chateaux are still harvesting their Cabernets and they couldn’t resist telling us about their 2010s; remarkable quality, but tiny yields. Many spoke of the young wines as real contenders to the 2009s, but we shall reserve judgement until April.

Back to the 2008s. When we first tasted these in April 2009, the economic outlook was bleak to say the least. The metrological reports suggested a summer that had been even less glorious than 2007, so, it was fair to say that the prospect of tasting and selling the 2008s was not something we were particularly looking forward to. However, we made the trip and we were pleasantly surprised by many of the results.

Despite the cool August, the best wines had a real concentration, coupled with really precise flavours and good acidities. Not `Classic` meaning bad, but `Classic` meaning good, to steal a phrase from RUN DMC. The economic outlook remained gloomy, so Chateaux such as Angelus, and the 1st growths made the bold decision to release first and at very attractive prices. The market place tentatively bought the top ten or so wines, but it wasn’t until Robert Parker waxed lyrical about the 2008s, that merchants and customers started to by a wider range of Chateaux. The rest as they say is history.

So, how are the wines showing now that they are in bottle? This is not a consistent vintage; we were very picky and we advise customers to be cautious with their purchases too. Yes the best wines are fabulous, but there are some stinkers too. The big question is, has Parker stuck his neck out too far on this one? Many wines achieve similar or better scores in 2008 than they achieved in 2005. 2008 is no 2005, but there are some fine wines. On the basis of today’s tasting, Pontet Canet, Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron, Leoville Poyferre, Beychevelle, Conseillante, Haut Bailly, Domaine de Chevalier, Rauzan Segla and Leoville Barton are all very smart wines and will offer collectors much enjoyment. The biggest surprise is the improvement of the Margaux commune. We were very disappointed by our initial tastings, but many of these wines have improved in barrel. Despite the weakness of sterling, many of these offer very good value (particularly when compared the magical 2009s). Other than the wines mentioned above, there were particularly strong showings from Ormes de Pez, Lafon Rochet and Poujeaux. The dry whites are crisp and classic, whilst the unsung sweeties are delightfully crisp with beautifully precise flavours. There is enough botrytis present, but these are not blockbusters. Guiraud and de Fargues were the richest offerings on show, whilst Climens was the most complete.

All in all, there are some jolly good wines from 2008, and the fact that this is not a 2005 or a 2009 is reflected in the prices. If you pick carefully, 2008 offers some of the best value buys on the market today.

Picking in Piedmont - Harvest is over!

2010-10-18T11:17:00.001+01:00

GAME OVER GAME OVER GAME OVER !!!

Yes, we are finally done, we can start breathing again, we are all tired but happy.

We finised picking on Wednesday, it has been a long month. Non stop, no days off, 15-20 hours of work per day, but I can finally say, now that it’s all safe in the cellar, that 2010 will be a GREAT VINTAGE for Piemonte.

So cheer up everyone, excellent results for all the grapes, Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo, and of course Barolo.

The few rain showers that we had didn’t effect the vineyards nor the quality of the grapes, and even if at the end we were literally running, because we were afraid of mould and infections, we still harvested very good quality grapes.

There are a few more weeks of work in the cellar ahead, pressing, racking, putting the wine into barrels, preparing for malolactic, everything now seems quick and easy, as we no longer need to rush in the vineyards anymore.

All the wines are turning dry easily; becasue we just use our indigenous yeast sometimes the wines tend to remain sweet, but it’s not the case of this year, almost everything is dry now.

This harvest has been an other great experience for all of us, to work close with a very good team makes life much easier, we all worked hard, we were all tired at night and but smiley in the morning...and now we all look forward to the big “harvest crew” dinner that Elio always offers us, and we always make sure he picks the fanciest restaurant in the area, the biggest menu and the nicest wines :-)

See you next year!!

Silvia

Cornas news - Harvest complete.

2010-10-12T16:40:00.006+01:00

A further installment from the delightful Matthieu Barret at Domaine du Coulet. It would seem, with the exception of the painfully low yields this year, things are looking good in 2010...

"Hello all,

I was not able to write to you as regularly as I wanted to keep you informed about the harvest in 2010.

We have been cutting grapes for the last three weeks with a small team of 10 people. The harvest is healthy and ripe and over the third week we collected grapes with a very big phenolic maturity. This last week, we harvested the summit of our mountain (which is the base of Billes Noires) and the East hillsides (which is one of the bases of Terrasses du Serre).

I ‘ve decided not to make any “Gore” cuvee but a “big” Billes Noires

in 2010 which will be, in my opinion, a great vintage of elegance and fruit in the spirit of the 2007.

We brought in 11 plots which oscillate between 12.7 and 13.9 % of potential alcohol. The yield per hectare is close to 15 hl which is a little bit frustrating as it is way too low! This is the third vintage in a row, below our technical objectives which are 20 hl / ha (which is not very pretentious…).

This week we shall begin to draw off the first tanks for the first press - always good moments to share.

Our grape-pickers' team made a beautiful sorting with

a lot of precision, which allowed us to vinify almost all the tanks without SO2.

I enclose two or three photos of the grape harvests to make you share these beautiful moments in the life of the estate.

See you soon,

Matthieu"

Viviani awarded 3 Bicchieri in 2011 Gambero Rosso

2010-10-08T11:04:00.004+01:00

The Slow Food movement began in 1989 and continues to gather pace around the world as a grass roots, not for profit organisation that promotes and recognises small, locally focussed food and wine producers. In 2010 the organisation joined forces with Italy's most highly esteemed wine publication Gambero Rosso. Together they taste literally thousands of wines each year, including in the review only those wines they deem to be above average. The highest accolade they award is the much coveted Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses), indicating an "extraordinary wine"

For the 2011 edition, and for the 10th time, our newest listing, the already highly popular Viviani, has been awarded 3 Bicchieri for their stunning Amarone, Casa dei Bepi. Anybody who tasted it at our tasting will surely agree, for their style is quite different to most of the Amarones we had ever tasted before. The key to their production is their situation in the cooler Mazzano zone, right at the highest limits of Valpolicella production with vines at around 450m above sea level. It's a family domaine, tiny in size, run by Claudio and Sandra Viviani. Talking to them you get a sense that their other great wine love it Burgundy, and tasting with them you get a real sense that this love transfers across to the way they produce their Amarones. Delicate, elegant and full of finesse, they are surely some of the leading wines in the appellation.

Picking in Piedmont - Larigi Time!

2010-10-06T11:09:00.012+01:00

Finally we are done with the Dolcetto picking, pressing and racking. We have now started barbera and the vineyard we decided to start with is Larigi.

Larigi is one of our oldest vineyards, it was planted by my grandpa Giovanni in 1948, and the vines still look healthy and in good shape...just like baby vines.

The production is always very limited, not just because of the age, also because we do a drastic green harvest in July-August to reduce the yield perhectar.

Since we had a very hot and dry summer, the grapes look really really healthy, in some spots even a little bit dry, they almost look like raisins, which tells us that the plant has been suffering a bit from drought (see pictures below)

The picking is done by hand and it usually takes a while because you have to look carefully at every grape and at every single berry to make sure there are no damages, and if see any, you pull the berry out and you throw it away, but this year we were picking as fast as superman, no need to check, Larigi was perfect!

Plus we had the supervision of Mr. Talin, 85 years old (and pictured below), our oldest but fastest picker of the cru. This is the first time he is not picking because of some health problems, he has been work ing the harvest with us for 70 years and he knows every single vine one by one, I’m sure he has names for all of them!

Once all the grapes have been harvested we took them to the crusher-disteammer, and big surprise: 25,5 brix sugar, this will be an other big juicy wine.

Once Larigi is totally picked, we will move on to our regular barbera vineyards, and then soon, the nebbiolo.

Cornas news - The harvest is under way at Domaine du Coulet

2010-10-05T17:43:00.004+01:00

Matthieu Barret, the man in charge of the brilliant Domaine du Coulet, always innovating in a constant effort to improve his techniques, sent us this last week detailing the goings on in the run up to the harvest....

"Saturday the 25/09

It is now three days since the harvest started under a beautiful rising sun and a fairly high temperature for the season. We started with our vines in Cotes du Rhone which will give birth to our small production of Côtes du Rhône "No Wine's Land" very ripe with a nice acidity which should give a good balance to the final wine, generally seductive and elegant.

We followed with the bottom slopes vineyards of Cornas in the "Lieux dits Genale, Mazards and Patronne. We found some spots of "vers de la grappe” - Grape worm that we had to sort rigorously. The harvest seems very promising yet we will have a better idea in a few weeks of the precise level of quality after the first fermentations.

We have improved our system this year with the use now a conveyor belt-elevator to feed the vats by gravity. This is very satisfying for us as it increases the amount of full berries in the vat to enhance the fruit aromas in our wines. The potential alcoholic degrees are quite high as we reach 13,5% approximately which is higher than our average of 13%.

Despite a few problems of equipment badly repaired before harvest by our suppliers which made us loose time and energy, we can say that all is going well for the moment!

We had to stop cutting today as we have a small rain of 10mm which forced us to stop. It shouldn't be a problem for the rest of the harvest regarding the small amount of water we had.

The first juices in vat have a superb and dark color which confirms the high phenolic maturities. We have done no intervention on our vats for the moment to able the intra-cellular fermentation to happen so to gain fruit and elegance and bring this very delicate wine texture that I seek and love over all for the fluidity it confers.

I will be in touch with more news, photos and facts from the harvest 2010 at Domaine du Coulet.

All the best,

Matthieu Barret, Domaine du Coulet"

News from Etna: Harvest 2010

2010-10-04T16:09:00.002+01:00

News just in from Marco de Grazia where the Tenuta delle Terre Nere harvest is under way...

"We just picked the best white grapes ever, and are starting with Feudo di
Mezzo. It looks very good to excellent, and could even rival 2008 if the
weather holds, particularly in Calderara.
Ciao,
Marco"

Sounds promising.....