Denis Dubourdieu is one of those rock 'n roll consultant oenologists who is behind many of the top wines in Bordeaux. He has kindly provided us with an in depth harvest report, but we have condensed the most salient points into the update below.
`The reputation of a new vintage in Bordeaux depends both on the potential quality of the wines and the market's expectations. There were no great expectations of the 2006, overshadowed by 2005, the 2007, made after a dismal summer, or the 2008, released in the midst of the global financial crisis. The 2009, arriving after a lovely summer and magnificent harvest, at a time when the international economy is convalescing, has attracted considerable interest.
In fact, 2009 met, almost perfectly, the five conditions required for a great red Bordeaux vintage.
- (1) (2) Early flowering and fruit-set, at the beginning of June, in hot, sunny, and relatively dry weather,
- (3): Early colour change as well - starting in late July – although it followed a period that was not dry enough to stop the vines' vegetative growth in all areas,
- (4): full ripening, thanks to hot weather with variable rainfall in August and September and particularly dry weather in the Médoc,
- (5): finally, a "dream harvest" in late September and October, under unusually dry conditions...
Great sweet white wines are dependent on good conditions for noble rot. These were excellent in the Sauternes area in 2009, thanks to rain from 18 to 20 September, followed by a long period with morning fog and warm afternoons. This ideal climate caused rapid, widespread development of Botrytis cinerea on very ripe grapes and the highest concentrations ever measured in such a large harvest...
Certainly, the maximum temperatures in August were slightly too high for the Sauvignon Blanc to develop the same amazingly intense aromas as in 2007 and 2008. Wine tasters who find the exuberant character of this grape variety excessive in some cases will be pleased with the powerful, complex, flavourful Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc in 2009. This year, the Sémillon grown on limestone soils developed remarkable power and richness.
In early January, it is premature to attempt an accurate description of the red wines from the latest vintage, as fermentation has only just finished and they have spent hardly any time in barrel. However, the deep colour and stunning fruit, as well as the quality and smoothness of the tannins of the 2009s are immediately apparent, indicative of a very good, or even a great year, where the wine expresses the quality of the terroir with great clarity.
The great sweet white Sauternes and Barsac wines are impressively rich and powerful, with great purity and depth. They are, without any exaggeration, absolutely fantastic!`
