The Wine Gang: January 2013 Newsletter
Justerini & Brooks Loire and Rhône
Decidedly posh and traditional St James' Street wine merchant Justerini & Brooks has some very fine classic producers on its books, a number of which were on display at its showcase tasting of Loire and Rhône wines from the 2011 vintage. This is not generally held to be a great vintage in either region – certainly not as good as the preceding pair 2009 and 2010 – but the quality of J&B's producers ensured there are some excellent wines all the same. The wines are part of an en primeur offer, so the prices quoted are for a case of 6 or 12 bottles without duty or VAT, which will be added when you receive the wines over the next few months. To order, contact 020 7484 6400, email justorders@justerinis.com or visit the website, www.justerinis.com.
DRY WHITES
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2011Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône), France, Dry White (Cork),13.5% abv
Roussanne, Picardin, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc are the grape varieties here, but it's not really about the ingredients, more the the gently honeyed, peach and greengage fruit, subtle blossom notes and lingering richness of flavour. A complex but charming full-flavoured dry white. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 92/100 - £255.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.
Lucien Crochet Sancerre Culs de Beaujeu 2010
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
Managed by Gilles Crochet, son of Lucien, this is classic Sancerre as you expect, or rather hope, it will be: linear, mineral but not austere in style, it has mouth-teasing acidity balanced with bright lemon and pithy grapefruit – a strikingly pure and vivid Sauvignon Blanc. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 92/100 - £210.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Fish & Seafood.
Vincent Pinard Sancerre Chêne Marchand 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.0% abv
Two-thirds of this fine, multi-layered Sauvignon Blanc is aged in new oak barrels, lending the wine a richness of texture, but the abiding character is one of immaculate citrus (lemon) fruit and classic Sancerre herbal, nettle-like flavours, lingering long in the very pure, clean finish. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 92/100 - £130.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Salads & Vegetable dishes, Fish & Seafood.
Vincent Pinard Sancerre Nuance 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
A whisper of Badoit-like salty minerals and a generous squeeze of ripe lemon give this Sauvignon Blanc its dangerously refreshing drinkability. The elderflower and passionfruit add an extra dimension. Another excellent wine from the consistently good Vincent Pinard. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 91/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
François Cotat Sancerre Caillotes 2011
François Cotat Sancerre Caillotes 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),13.0% abv
A surprising and striking feeling of ripe fruit – both in the sense of fruit character (peachy, slightly floral) and texture (ample, rounded) – is the first impression on this characterful Sancerre. There's a nervy quality to the acidity too, however, leaving the finish clean and brisk. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 90/100 - £200.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Fish & Seafood.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sec Les Dix Arpents 2011
Montlouis (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
Jacky Blot is one of the Loire's best growers, dividing his focus between Chenin Blanc at Domaine de la Taille aux Loups in Montlouis and Vouvray and red wines from Cabernet Franc at Domaine de la Butte in Bourgueil. This is typically energetic and vibrant Chenin from 50-year-old vines, with a mouthwatering tension between baked-apple-and-nuts richness and punchy, tangy acidity. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 90/100 - £50.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.
André Perret Saint Joseph Blanc 2011
Saint Joseph (Rhône), France, Dry White (Cork),13.5% abv
Deftly oaked (20% new oak, the balance 1-3 years old), this quietly charming white Rhône blend of Roussanne and Marsanne has that wanderin-an-orchard quality of apples, plums and their blossom on the nose, while the palate has the not-quite-tart bite of just-ripe apples to keep it perky. Very good value for the quality. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 89/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.
Côte Rôtie (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
One of our favourite producers in the Rhône (or indeed anywhere), René Rostaing makes long-lived, ethereal Syrah that combines concentration with finesse, elegance and silk-like texture. From the top La Landonne vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, this is still a baby in that it will no doubt improve for years to come, but we found it surprisingly accessible now: the tannins athlete-sinewy and fine, the flavours all pure hedgerow fruit with the suggestion of a ferrous mineral meatiness. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 94/100 - £695.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places 2011
Côte Rôtie (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
From a single-vineyard in the Verenay commune of Côte-Rôtie, we loved the finesse, the contained, coiled-spring power and the purity of this 100% Syrah. There's perfumed, limpid red and black fruit and a hint of meaty-savouriness, too, in a very attractive, beautifully made Northern Rhône red. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 94/100 - £560.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Greal 2011
Hermitage (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
Henri, son of Marc, Sorrel, has 4 hectares in Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, and this wine, a blend of two vineyards, Meal (90%) and Greffieux in Hermitage, is an evocative expression of the region. Quite plush and silky in feel, its red and blackberry fruit is vividly drawn with an outline of black pepper and fresh cherry-like acidity in a long, harmonious finish. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Vincent Pinard Sancerre Chêne Marchand 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.0% abv
Two-thirds of this fine, multi-layered Sauvignon Blanc is aged in new oak barrels, lending the wine a richness of texture, but the abiding character is one of immaculate citrus (lemon) fruit and classic Sancerre herbal, nettle-like flavours, lingering long in the very pure, clean finish. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 92/100 - £130.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Salads & Vegetable dishes, Fish & Seafood.
Vincent Pinard Sancerre Nuance 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
A whisper of Badoit-like salty minerals and a generous squeeze of ripe lemon give this Sauvignon Blanc its dangerously refreshing drinkability. The elderflower and passionfruit add an extra dimension. Another excellent wine from the consistently good Vincent Pinard. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 91/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
François Cotat Sancerre Caillotes 2011
François Cotat Sancerre Caillotes 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),13.0% abv
A surprising and striking feeling of ripe fruit – both in the sense of fruit character (peachy, slightly floral) and texture (ample, rounded) – is the first impression on this characterful Sancerre. There's a nervy quality to the acidity too, however, leaving the finish clean and brisk. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 90/100 - £200.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Fish & Seafood.
Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sec Les Dix Arpents 2011
Montlouis (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
Jacky Blot is one of the Loire's best growers, dividing his focus between Chenin Blanc at Domaine de la Taille aux Loups in Montlouis and Vouvray and red wines from Cabernet Franc at Domaine de la Butte in Bourgueil. This is typically energetic and vibrant Chenin from 50-year-old vines, with a mouthwatering tension between baked-apple-and-nuts richness and punchy, tangy acidity. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 90/100 - £50.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.
André Perret Saint Joseph Blanc 2011
Saint Joseph (Rhône), France, Dry White (Cork),13.5% abv
Deftly oaked (20% new oak, the balance 1-3 years old), this quietly charming white Rhône blend of Roussanne and Marsanne has that wanderin-an-orchard quality of apples, plums and their blossom on the nose, while the palate has the not-quite-tart bite of just-ripe apples to keep it perky. Very good value for the quality. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 89/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.
DRY REDS
René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2011Côte Rôtie (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
One of our favourite producers in the Rhône (or indeed anywhere), René Rostaing makes long-lived, ethereal Syrah that combines concentration with finesse, elegance and silk-like texture. From the top La Landonne vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, this is still a baby in that it will no doubt improve for years to come, but we found it surprisingly accessible now: the tannins athlete-sinewy and fine, the flavours all pure hedgerow fruit with the suggestion of a ferrous mineral meatiness. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 94/100 - £695.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places 2011
Côte Rôtie (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
From a single-vineyard in the Verenay commune of Côte-Rôtie, we loved the finesse, the contained, coiled-spring power and the purity of this 100% Syrah. There's perfumed, limpid red and black fruit and a hint of meaty-savouriness, too, in a very attractive, beautifully made Northern Rhône red. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 94/100 - £560.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Greal 2011
Hermitage (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
Henri, son of Marc, Sorrel, has 4 hectares in Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, and this wine, a blend of two vineyards, Meal (90%) and Greffieux in Hermitage, is an evocative expression of the region. Quite plush and silky in feel, its red and blackberry fruit is vividly drawn with an outline of black pepper and fresh cherry-like acidity in a long, harmonious finish. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 93/100 - £385.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de Dioterie 2010
Chinon (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Young winemaker Kevin Fontaine makes several cuvées in Chinon at Charles Joguet, and this is arguably the finest, a red of no little concentration and depth but which is distinguished by its wonderful fluency and silkiness of texture, subtly floral red and black fruit and, for want of a better (or less French-poetical) word, energy. Very fine Cabernet Franc. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 93/100 - £110.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2010
Bourgueil (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Having made his name with Chenin in Montlouis, Jacky Blot has repeated the trick with Cabernet Franc since acquiring the 14-hectare Domaine de la Butte in 2002. From unusually low-yielding 50- and 60-year-old vines (20 hectolitres per hectare for the fact-spotters among you), this is a Loire red to challenge Bordeaux, featuring chalky but fine tannins and deep, dark hedgerow fruit, but presented with a certain sinuous elegance of texture. Will certainly repay a few years in a cool, dark place if you have one. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de Dioterie 2010
Chinon (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Young winemaker Kevin Fontaine makes several cuvées in Chinon at Charles Joguet, and this is arguably the finest, a red of no little concentration and depth but which is distinguished by its wonderful fluency and silkiness of texture, subtly floral red and black fruit and, for want of a better (or less French-poetical) word, energy. Very fine Cabernet Franc. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 93/100 - £110.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2010
Bourgueil (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Having made his name with Chenin in Montlouis, Jacky Blot has repeated the trick with Cabernet Franc since acquiring the 14-hectare Domaine de la Butte in 2002. From unusually low-yielding 50- and 60-year-old vines (20 hectolitres per hectare for the fact-spotters among you), this is a Loire red to challenge Bordeaux, featuring chalky but fine tannins and deep, dark hedgerow fruit, but presented with a certain sinuous elegance of texture. Will certainly repay a few years in a cool, dark place if you have one. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 93/100 - £80.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.5% abv
From one of the great names of the southern Rhône, this is very open and attractively sweet-fruited on the nose, with spicy blackberry and raspberry, and a slight toffee-ed edge. The palate is denser, but it's not the behemoth you sometimes find in these parts, the tannins being suave rather than chewy or thick, and the finish quite sprightly and fresh. You could broach this now, or wait a few years: a good, if not great, Beaucastel. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 92/100 - £235.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2011
Gigondas (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
A small domaine that produces just this single cuvée each year, and it's a delightful one in this vintage, with soft summer-pudding fruit sprinkled with black pepper and cooling green herbs and a succulent, supple feel. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 91/100 - £115.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.
Domaine du Coulet Cornas Brise Cailloux 2011
Cornas (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
Using fruit from the lower slopes in his four-hectare property, this is one of up-and-coming Northern Rhône producer Mathieu Barret's more accessible (in price and style) wines, a fragrant, sapid Syrah from Cornas of great drinkability, with a slight medicinal edge to the red fruit and cracked pepper. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 90/100 - £240.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2011
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
Ripe and sweet-fruited, with an almost toffee-ed cast to the red berries, plum and blackberries, this offers a blast of southern French sun for the depths of winter, a happy-go-lucky Grenache-dominated blend (there's a little Mourvèdre, too) from top-flight Châteauneuf producer Le Vieux Télégraphe. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 89/100 - £195.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.
Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Gaby 2011
Côtes du Rhône (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Best known for their work in Hermitage, Domaine du Colombier's more affordable Crozes is no slouch either, a powerful, earthy and savoury red, with a streak of cracked pepper and herbs, a meaty core and, in this vintage, an attractively perfumed red-fruited quality. Good length, good value. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 89/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Domaine Etienne Pochon Crozes-Hermitage 2011
Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
"Playful" is the word J&B uses to describe this Syrah from the unpretentious but talented Etienne Pochon, and that gets it exactly right: it's the sort of juicy, sinewy, vibrant and just plain drinkable red that this appellation does so well when it gets the yields right. Pepper, blackberry, raspberry and a subtle savoury streak – bring on the steak-frites. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 89/100 - £85.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Château du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Tuffe 2010
Saumur-Champigny (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Under the stewardship of Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau is an oak-free zone, and this great value red (the price quoted here is for a 12-bottle case) shows the virtues of his approach. It's delightfully pretty on the nose with violet edges to the red fruit, and succulent and juicy on thepalate, with a subtle cooling green edge. Classic Cabernet Franc for drinking over the summer months.
Rating: 89/100 - £75.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.
Montlouis (Loire), France, Sparkling White (Cork),12.0% abv
A properly dry sparkling Chenin Blanc – the title refers to the fact that the wine has had no dosage, no chapitalization and no residual sugar – this is an exceptional alternative to Champagne, although it has more than enough personality of its own to make the comparisons redundant. Apple – baked, fresh off the tree, and blossom – is the dominant theme, but it's the driving acidity and clarity that makes it truly refreshing and special. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 93/100 - £55.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Aperitif wine.
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Domaine Etienne Pochon Crozes-Hermitage 2011
Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
"Playful" is the word J&B uses to describe this Syrah from the unpretentious but talented Etienne Pochon, and that gets it exactly right: it's the sort of juicy, sinewy, vibrant and just plain drinkable red that this appellation does so well when it gets the yields right. Pepper, blackberry, raspberry and a subtle savoury streak – bring on the steak-frites. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)
Rating: 89/100 - £85.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.
Château du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Tuffe 2010
Saumur-Champigny (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Under the stewardship of Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau is an oak-free zone, and this great value red (the price quoted here is for a 12-bottle case) shows the virtues of his approach. It's delightfully pretty on the nose with violet edges to the red fruit, and succulent and juicy on thepalate, with a subtle cooling green edge. Classic Cabernet Franc for drinking over the summer months.
Rating: 89/100 - £75.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.
SPARKLING WINE
Domaine Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sur Loire Triple ZeroMontlouis (Loire), France, Sparkling White (Cork),12.0% abv
A properly dry sparkling Chenin Blanc – the title refers to the fact that the wine has had no dosage, no chapitalization and no residual sugar – this is an exceptional alternative to Champagne, although it has more than enough personality of its own to make the comparisons redundant. Apple – baked, fresh off the tree, and blossom – is the dominant theme, but it's the driving acidity and clarity that makes it truly refreshing and special. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)
Rating: 93/100 - £55.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Aperitif wine.
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