A week in Piedmont - 2010, 2009 and Barolo "Classico"

Last week was one of the most enjoyable and exciting trips to Piedmont I can remember having. My schedule was fuller than ever before, including 20 of the region's top producers and upcoming stars. There were as many new faces to meet as old and plenty of wine to discover. At a time when Italy is in the doldrums, Piedmont seems to be positively buzzing. Not only is demand and quality of wine sky-high, but also the region is teaming with budding young winemakers. What a difference to 30 years ago when Barolo was being given away for free with more sought-after bottles of Dolcetto.

My main purpose was to taste 2010 Barolo, but first 2009. Understandably less homogenous, hot vintages are often pigeon-holed as bad and incapable of lasting very long. However this is an injustice. 2003 makes the case strongly. The successful ones still provide delicious drinking today, offering exotic vintage traits together with fresh, clear fruit flavours that keep you coming back for more. Who'd have thought it? And so it is likely to be with 2009. I tasted many this week. They were aromatic, seductive and eminently drinkable now already. They will probably not be in as fine fettle as the 2010s or 2008s in 25 years’ time but who cares? 10 years plus is well within their capabilities and at least we will have something to drink while we wait. Gaja's Sperss, Giuseppe Mascarello's Monprivato, Vietti's Castiglione were highlights. Marengo, Scavino and Azelia also excelled. 2008s, 2006s and 2004s have not really awoken yet and 2007s are still seductive but it would be a shame to approach the best right now.  Thankfully we have vintages to drink in 2003, 2005 and 2009.

2010 is the vintage on everyone's lips, though. I will spare the meteorological report, we have had quite enough of "weather" in the UK already this year, but in short 2010 was a very late vintage characterised by a late, poor flowering with resulting low yields; a cool and wet start to the summer; a return to good weather in September with big day night temperature differences that built freshness and aroma in the grapes; culminating with fine October weather in the run up to and during harvest at the end of the month. The wines are crisp and offer a refined intensity. The tannins are evident but distinctly sweet, smooth and weave deftly through the fruit. They give the initial impression of a gentle austerity which precedes long, floral and fruity notes. These are hallmarks of great Nebbiolo. There is a deep concentration in the wines but they remain streamlined, restrained and alpine-pure. As impressive as they are to taste however, to getting the most out of drinking them will require great patience. A benchmark vintage for laying down. I tasted with the good and the great: amongst many others the three Gs - Conterno, Mascarello and Rinaldi; Altare; Clerico; Giacosa; Vietti; Voerzio and Scavino just to name drop a little. Brovia and Elio Grasso were two firsts for me that greatly impressed. However the 2010 range that I kept comparing everything back to was Azelia. This is an estate that has been making bigger strides in quality than any other over the last few years. Their 2010s are simply brilliant and among the vintage's very best wines.

Surrounded by old, dusty bottles at almost every estate I went to, the one thing I was consistently reminded of during each tasting was how Barolo was traditionally always a blend. The pinnacle of production. Crus are a relatively recent phenomena and designed to not only be brilliant but also reflect the special characteristics of an individual terroir. Most Domaines worth their salt make a Barolo blended from Crus, as it was traditionally in the past, rather than use it as an outlet for young vine production or a hiding place for wine unsuitable for the Cru ine. In general considerably more of these blended Barolos are made than the individual Crus, the quality gap to the Crus is therefore often much smaller than the much lower prices suggest. Scavino's Barolo "Classico" as they call it, their ode to tradition, is one of the finest examples. I was struck by the quality of their 2010, its complexity, impeccable balance, vibrancy and completeness. Progression has brought Piedmont a long way in a short time but let’s hope the best of tradition is not forgotten in the process.

Burgundy by Village Tasting

On Monday evening the doors of the Caledonian Club were opened with a typically ebullient Scottish welcome for Justerini & Brooks’ ‘Red Burgundy by Village’ tasting. More than 150 guests, some old friends, au fait with the riches of our Burgundy portfolio, some uninitiated, joined us to taste over 60 wines arranged by commune.

It was wonderful to see so many enthusiasts enjoying the superb wines on display. Giles, our Buying Director, had carefully selected a range of wines to show off the breadth and depth of our offering. Despite Burgundy being flavour of the month, a label it has proudly worn for several years now, we were still able to showcase a multitude of gems from our stocks. Many samples hailed from 2007 and 2008 – harvests that were not without complication. However, these unsung vintages ably display the skill of our winemakers and the strides that Burgundy as a region has made in the past decade or two. They are also years that are rather flattering to drink right now! In some cases, discerning collectors had already relieved us of our 2007 and 2008 examples, so 2009, 2010 and 2011 stepped into the breach. The 2009s and 2010s are still displaying their youthful, fruit characters and are clearly class acts. The 2011s showed brilliant purity and silky textures and promise to be very fine drinkers in years to come.

In the Cote de Beaune, there was a fascinating match-up between Volnay and Pommard. Volnay, so often held aloft as being more charming and less bucolic than its neighbour, certainly had its work cut out. The Pommards from de Montille, in particular the Rugiens 2008, dispelled the theory that all Pommard is rustic and requires decades of cellaring. This was without doubt one of the stars of the tasting and narrowly eclipsed the also excellent 2008 Volnay Mitans and the 2009 Volnay Taillepieds from the same producer.

Nuits St Georges from Etienne Grivot, Robert Chevillon and Henri Gouges all shone. This commune is so much more than a poor neighbour of Vosne Romanee. They may be without Grand Crus (for the time being), but Vaucrains, Cailles, Pruliers and Les St Georges are all serious contenders. For those who find some of the prices in the Cote de Nuits a little scary, there is still plenty of value to be had in this village.

Alas, so many Vosne wines sell out en primeur, but we were still able to open examples from Francois Lamarche, Etienne Grivot and Bruno Clair. The Lamarche Malconsorts and the Grivot Suchots  are fabulous 1er crus that deserve to be in the most discerning of cellars. Bruno Clair’s excellent Champs Perdrix is a little beauty. With two barrels of Petit Monts in the blend, this is a very fine Vosne and excellent value.

The star of the Chambolle commune was Joseph Drouhin’s 1er cru Baudes 2008: feminine, ethereal, elegant Chambolle just as Bacchus intended it to be. Our new boy, Perrot Minot shone very brightly on the Morey St Denis table. Their 2010s are sumptuous and stylish and, although the prices are a bit eye watering, they are worth every penny!

As one would expect, the Gevrey Chambertin table was a swamped for most of the evening (hardly surprising when you have names such as Denis Mortet, Bruno Clair, Louis Remy, Drouhin Laroze and Joseph Drouhin exhibiting). There were two mini flights of the Grand Crus, Latricieres Chambertin and Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze – the perfect way to finish a tasting! In truth, impressive as the Grand Crus were, most deserve much more time. The 2007 Latricieres from Louis Remy was delicious and approachable, but perhaps the picks of the commune were the excellent 2008Bruno Clair Cazetiers and the magnificent 2008 Mortet Gevrey 1er cru. Denis’ son Arnaud really has emerged as one of the most talented young winemakers in Burgundy; it’s well worth picking up some of his 2008s while you still can!

Many thanks to the Caledonian Club for being so hospitable and to everyone who attended and helped to make it such a wonderful event.

Harvest report from Voyager Estate - Part two

We have nearly completed our Chardonnay harvest with only one small block remaining. The vineyard team have been steadily handpicking each morning for the past 10 days and, have brought in some of the most outstanding Chardonnay fruit we have ever seen. 

The flavor development and concentration at such low sugar levels has the team very excited by the potential quality of the harvest. The Chardonnay fruit is all hand harvested and whole bunch pressed, with the free run juice being transferred to French oak barrels for natural fermentation.

This season has seen the introduction of some larger format oak barrels in the form of puncheons which we are using on our Chardonnay and Shiraz. The 500 litre puncheons will offer us the textural benefits of barrel maturation with slightly less oak influence on the resultant wine.

We have commenced the fruit intake of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with the first hand pick of Semillon completed this morning and some machine harvested fruit coming in this evening. This is the point where the vineyard and winery teams split into two shifts, as we begin working day and night  to harvest these varieties. The machine picking is done during the cool of the evening and early morning, to ensure these aromatic white varieties are at their freshest and most vibrant.

The weather conditions are close to perfect with a continuation of warm days and cool nights the norm for the week ahead.

It is certainly looking like one of the strongest white wine vintages for a long time -  I think some really special wines will be made!

Harvest report from Voyager Estate - Part one

Our first harvest of Chardonnay on the 3^rd of February was the earliest start to harvest we have experienced at Voyager Estate.

The Chardonnay vines have been tracking early all season and the very quick flowering in November set the scene for a potentially early start to harvest.

The ripening weather has been warm to mild with no excessive heat and, the nights have been very cool – perfect conditions for the steady ripening of the white fruit.

If the pleasant mild conditions hold, we should see our Chardonnay fruit steadily harvested over the next 10 to 14 days. This nice steady ripening allows us the luxury of handpicking small select parcels at perfect levels of ripeness.

The early flavour development at very low sugar levels has been amazing and, the grapes are retaining excellent natural acidity.

The Chardonnay fruit is all handpicked and chilled down overnight before whole bunch pressing and is then transferred to barrel for fermentation.

Early days, however I cannot recall our team being more excited by the quality of fruit we are seeing at the moment!

Vintage Report: René Rostaing’s 2012s.

Producing some of the very finest wines from the Rhône valley, René Rostaing, winemaking for 43 years has acquired star status. He very generously spent some time with us to talk about his views on the most recent vintage and gave us an insight into his wines.

What has 2012 been like in the Rhône?

- Rhône 2012 from the very beginning looked like another classic vintage. After a normal summer, without any excessive heat, we harvested around the 20th September. The ripeness was even throughout thanks to low yields (around -20%), not to mention the berries were healthy as well. We had good weather conditions with only one day of rain that didn’t impact the grapes.

What were you most pleased about in 2012?

- All the grapes enjoyed the same conditions equally and reached the optimum of their potential.

What are the characteristics of this vintage?

- The wines are at first noticeable by their fruit which is strong and round. They are tasty and generous in aromas and lead to a lovely freshness towards the end. But let’s be patient! The wine in its first two years is ‘in process’ and its evolution is sometimes hard to predict. Today, the bright fruit is the dominant characteristic.  Age will certainly bring some structure and austerity as the wine closes down after a couple of years in bottle. It’s an evolution that I have witnessed many times.

Were there any other vintages that you can compare 2012 to?

- More than any other year, 2012 has its own personality. I do not remember any vintage this pronounced in terms of fruit expression and freshness. Tasting it is currently really enjoyable and I think the balance showing now is promising.

The Great Claret Tasting at Southwold - The Turn of the Magnificent 2010s

Last week the great and the good of the wine trade (and yours truly) descended upon the picturesque seaside town of Southwold to re-examine the 2010 Bordeaux vintage. It resembled something of an MW convention – if anyone knows the collective noun for a group of Masters of Wine, send your answers on postcards… As ever, it was an honour indeed to taste in such illustrious company.

There was an enormous sense of anticipation; after all, this is the British wine trade’s favourite vintage, so expectations were exceptionally high. With this sort of reputation, it is unsurprising that the wines didn’t quite live up to their billing, but that is by no means a put down or for that matter a reason to quell our enthusiasm.

Tasting these wines from barrel was a revelation. Tasting them straight after bottling affirmed everything we thought and added to their repute. Tasting them again last spring and summer was mind-blowing. However, it appears that they have put themselves into hibernation since our last glimpse at this wonder-vintage. In general most wines are displaying their muscularity and structure at this time and appear to have concealed the grace, charm and prodigious sexy appeal on which they have built their reputation. The wines are still remarkable, if not quite as pleasurable to taste. But hey, we never said these were going to be forward, easy drinkers. To quote a member of the UK trade (and Nigel Tufnel), these have all been turned up to eleven (apologies to those not au fait with the philosophy of Spinal Tap!). These are wines of outrageous proportions. They will require long term cellaring, so if you are after immediate thrills, stick to the 2009s. If you are looking for something that will reward patience, stick some of these away…

At this early stage, the Firsts Growths and the big names from the Right Bank are perhaps the least closed. They still have flamboyance and provoke a sense of awe. Scores at Southwold are treated like state secrets, but, for those still reading, I’m allowed to reveal my own scores - WikiLeaks, eat your heart out… La Mission Haut Brion (20), Haut Brion (20), Latour (20), Petrus (19.5), Le Pin (18), Margaux (19), Cheval Blanc (19), Ausone (19), Lafleur (19), Lafite (18), Mouton (18.5). In truth, on another day, any of these wines could have taken top honours. These all display a sense of breed and exquisite exoticism that make them almost unique in my experience.

Other stand out performances came in the shape of Troplong Mondot (19), Angelus (18), Tertre Roteboeuf (18), VCC (18.5), Eglise Clinet (18), La Conseillante (18.5), Evangile (18), Leoville Poyferre (18), St Pierre (17.5), Montrose (18), Dame de Montrose (17), Pichon Baron (19), Fort de Latour (19), Domaine de Chevalier (17.5), Haut Bailly (17.5), Rieussec (18.5) and Coutet (18).

The Petit Chateaux and lesser cru Classes will in time offer extraordinary drinking and value. On the evidence of last week, don’t go near these for some time, ideally five, maybe ten years and give the best wines even longer.

Our highlights of Burgundy 2012

Our Burgundy 2012 En Primeur campaign kicked off on Monday 13th January, with a house full of famous Burgundian names and of clients alike - it was a chance to explore the most talked about vintage.

Ghislaine Barthod

Alex and Marc Bachelet from Bachelet Monnot

Chantal and Florian from Louis Remy

Louis Michel Vicomte Liger-Belair

Burgundy 2012 Vintage Report - "Less is more"

2012 was a challenging vintage in Burgundy that has produced brilliant wines. Mother Nature threw everything at the growers: poor flowering (though this was to be a blessing in quality terms), mildew, hail (twice) and sunburn. Vitally the one thing that did not present a problem in 2012 was rot. Frank Follin is by no means alone when he says that “the grapes in 2012 were the most beautiful I have ever seen.” The red wines are intense, suave, fresh and ripe. They have the concentration of 2010 but show a little more accessibility and roundness. They will, therefore, show extremely well young, whilst also offering great ageing potential – such is their super balance. The whites are hugely concentrated but in many cases this does not seem to have resulted in too much heaviness or lack of balance, certainly as far as the wines from vineyards grown on poor, stony soils are concerned. It is specifically from these vineyards where wines should have a good long life ahead of them.

Qualitatively this seems to be a very homogenous vintage for red wine, whether its Bourgogne, Chorey Les Beaune or Chambertin. It is difficult to generalise in this vintage, there are so many brilliant examples of elegant Pinot Noir from all over the Cote, though it does seem that Chambolle-Musigny has produced its best wine for several years. That said Arnaud Mortet of Gevrey-Chambertin has produced his greatest work yet, too. Furthermore there are many outstanding Nuits and Vosnes, though be warned Nuits St Georges in particular has suffered particularly low yields. For whites, as mentioned earlier, the most outstanding wines come from the stonier vineyards in Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault. The likes of Grande Montagne, Caillerets, Garenne, Folatieres,Tillets, Perrieres (Puligny and Meursault), Luraule and Clos des Grands Charrons are all well worth seeking out.

Arnaud Mortet

This exceptional quality has come at a price: There is very little wine. The crop ranges from 20 to 90% down on 2011. Gerard Boudot of Etienne Sauzet has been making wine since 1974 and has never known such a small vintage, his Folatieres is just one example - he made 2 barrels instead of the usual 10. Don’t be surprised to see offers of 6 packs, 3 packs and even individual bottles during the 2012 releases in January. 2013 is also terribly small, and with 2011 and 2010 being short crops, too, Burgundy has effectively produced the equivalent of two decent sized vintages in 4 years. Cellars up and down the Cote d’Or look empty. Add this to furious, ever-increasing demand and we have quite a shortage on our hands and producers will inevitably have to put prices up.

Piedmont: A feast of friends and family

Last Thursday the Justerini & Brooks sales team set out for Piedmont. The aim of the trip was to visit several of our key estates and to get a feel for the different villages, vineyards and approaches to winemaking. We spent three busy days consuming Piedmont and have come away with so much more…

To understand the wines of Piedmont one must engage with the families, both actual and extended, and with the myths, the histories and the conflicts. The story of Piedmont is one of contrasts: tradition and innovation; respect for the family and revolution. We found three generations all under one roof at Azelia, with Grannie still ruling the vineyard; a gloriously eccentric Domenico Clerico in his glossy modern winery and, at Altare, a story of such sadness that it bought several of us and Elio’s daughter Sylvia to tears. What was most striking about the story of Piedmont is how the stark financial imperatives of the 60s and 70s created and nurtured a culture of such innovation and artistry. We met many young winemakers who are striving for beauty and meaning in their wines and their communities, inspired by the revolution of their parents. There is a new tradition in Piedmont which the previous generation fought for, it is one of freedom and it is firmly focussed on quality. It is not a battle of the modern against the traditional. This battle has been fought and the future for Piedmont is open with producers embracing the best techniques for their wines, whether they be new or old. There is a sense of maturity about the approach here and we think Piedmontese wines have never been better.

Our itinerary was as follows. Please do contact your account manager if you have any specific questions or would like to hear any of the stories in more detail. There are many and they are fascinating!

FRIDAY:

Tasting: Voerzio

– We tasted a kaleidoscope of Voerzio’s wines with Davide generously treating us to a range of vintages including many of their top wines. This was one of life’s great wine experiences for so many reasons but one thing that particularly stuck with us was the meticulousness of the Voerzios, even the way Davide poured the wines was measured. This diligence shines through in the purity and precision of the wines.

Tasting: Scavino

– Scavino is one of the greats. So often erroneously classified as simply modern, in reality the Scavinos embrace the best of the old and the new to make true terroir wines. This terroir is more accessible in youth these days as they have scaled back the oak but the wines are as serious as ever. 2009 is a special vintage for Scavino with large scaled, powerful, ageworthy wines which will also be seductive in youth.

Lunch: Scavino

– The Scavinos very generously treated us to an incredible lunch with wines to match. Our two abiding memories are the 2006 Barolos and deep fried porcini in breadcrumbs. Wow!

Tasting: Azelia

– It was wonderful to visit another branch of the Scavino clan at Azelia. This is very much an understated, hands on domaine which is drenched in family history, memories and traditions. Lovely, lovely people and delicious wines which offer serious value. Margheria 2005, from the same vineyard as Gaja’s Sperss, is a real ace in the hole here. Buy it!

Tasting: Correggia + a light supper

– A relaxing jaunt through some wonderfully elegant Roero wines, which are real staff favourites. Freshness, minerality and elegance. Correggia offer distinctly un-showy yet supremely satisfying Nebbiolos and some terrific whites including an oak age Sauvignon. The style at Correggia is very relaxed and it was a lovely way to end the first day.

SATURDAY:

Tasting: Altare

– This was quite an experience. This estate is steeped in history with Elio’s father refusing to speak to him for seven years whilst living in the same house! Narrow avoidance of financial ruin and all sorts… The wines are nothing short of spectacular, Sylvia Altare served us a 1990 Barbera Larigi blind which confounded us all with its freshness and seriousness. Stunningly good Barbera, so serious that most of us thought it Nebbiolo.

Tasting: Vietti

– Like the wines, the Vietti estate comes across as elegant, sophisticated and impressive. There is very much a sense of having arrived. Vietti is one of the originals and still one of the very best.

Lunch: More e Macine in La Morra

– A terrifically indulgent, chaotic and lengthy scramble through some wonderful food. We kept trying to leave but they just wouldn’t let us. Very memorable, especially the panacotta which was so full of flavour we had to ask how they made it, the answer… some milk and something to make the milk set. Brilliant!

Tasting: Clerico

– Luciano and Domenico took us on a tour of this astonishing new winery and through these remarkable wines. Clerico continue to ease off on and adapt their use of new oak making these wines a little more accessible. However, as ever it is with age that they shine, Percristina 1998 and a delicious Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2003 were the highlights here.

Tasting: Marengo + a light supper (a five course, highly sophisticated light supper!)

– We love Marco Marengo, so gentle, relaxed and honest and with so much Brunate! This is without doubt one of the best value domaines out there. Seamless wines with such authenticity and elegance yet with power and real ability to age. These are exactly the kind of wines we like to drink and we did! Marco and Jenny treated us to a stunning supper in their house. Proper Piedmontese cuisine and lots of Brunate. What a night! Again the 2006 Brunate sticks in the memory.

So, what did we learn?

Piedmont is in so many ways like Burgundy, in fact many of the producers we visited had as much Burgundy in the cellar as they did Nebbiolo. We found the sense of terroir, delicacy, etherealness and elegance that is so striking in Burgundy here in Piedmont and these guys have white truffles too! Like Burgundy, volumes are small and it feels like Piedmont is starting to take off in the same way that Burgundy has done over the last 10 years.

Buy more 2006 and 2008 Barolo: two different sides of the classical coin. Buy 2007s and 2005s to drink in the meantime. 2005s are delivering way above expectations!

Regardless of points, reviews and investment potential, in some parts of the world wine is still all about families.

In Piedmont, the hazelnuts are almost as good as the wines, especially at Altare. Oh, and Elio’s Coppa Ham is pretty special too!

- Martin Buchanan, Private Clients Sales Account Manager

Enfin! We waited as long as we dared ..

A few words from Charles Blagden, vine grower and courtier in the Rhone valley, completes harvest at Le Bois Pointu in Chateauneuf ...

Le Bois Pointu 2013. Vendanges Saturday 19th October.

Enfin! We waited as long as we dared (the heavens opened yesterday) & it was all over in just under 4 hours.

One of the latest harvests in the southern Rhone from memory (albeit my feeble one) since 1984 & the smallest that anyone I've spoken to can remember- we'll be lucky to have made 13hl, ie 9hl/Ha!!

At least the grapes were ripe...

Here are a few snaps of the day: 

Bordeaux 2011 in bottle

Following 2010 was never going to be an easy act. Following 2009 and 2010 was going to be an impossible act. Arguably, no-one really wanted a vintage that could live up to these immense years. Could anyone handle another ‘vintage of a lifetime’? I for one had already encountered four, which was making me feel quite old; our poor Chairman must be feeling positively ancient!

It was immediately obvious to all that 2011 was not a rival to 2009 and 2010, but this should not in itself be a reason to condemn it. Aside from the small wines, 2009s really aren’t ready for drinking. 2010s will take longer still, so either we rely on our vast reserves of ‘61s and ‘82s until our 2009s and 2010s hit their straps, or we’re going to need a few vintages to fill in. I for one have been thoroughly enjoying some 2007s recently, so much so, that I feel inspired to write a blog on them. ‘Less-good vintages’ definitely have a place. But before anyone starts reading too much between the lines, 2011 and 2007 don’t have that much in common.

Inside the packed Opera House we found a relatively consistent group of wines. Sure there were ups and downs, but this is a big tasting – there were plenty of turkeys at the corresponding 2009 and 2010 tastings. Starting with the Pessac reds, we found plenty of sweet fruit. In fact we were quite surprised by how ripe and generous some of these wines were. The usual stars, Domaine de Chevalier, Smith Haut Lafitte and Haut Bailly were all delicious, but those who like the exotic would be advised to go for Malartic Lagraviere. Bravo to the Bonnies – a terrific wine that I’d very much like to have in my cellar!

St Emilion is a region I approach with trepidation. Much to my surprise, this flight provided some of the most exciting and polished wines at the tasting. John Kolasa at Canon continues his good work, Troplong Mondot was massive yet quite seductive and Canon la Gaffelière was a complete surprise package – either my palate has completely changed or their 2011 is demonstrating a refinement and elegance I don’t normally associate with this estate. This is without doubt the smartest Canon la Gaffelière I can remember. The standout wine though was Clos Fourtet. Their 2009 and 2010 received high praise from Parker and this is a very worthy successor.

In Pomerol, Gazin has firmed up; this is one of the few wines at the tasting that had real structure. This may require a few years, but will be a stunner. La Conseillante was as understated and distinguished as usual. In the Medoc, some little wines such as Beaumont, Chasse Spleen and Poujeaux all showed well. The soft, approachable tannins and ample sweetness of the vintage make these wines more accessible than ever. Brane Cantenac and Rauzan Segla were the stars of Margaux – no surprises here then… St Julien and Pauillac were not as consistent as we remembered them. There are some real highs: Leoville Poyferre, St Pierre, Gloria, Gruaud Larose, Pichon Lalande, Grand Puy Lacoste and Pichon Baron, but there were a few question marks over Lynch Bages and Leoville Barton. Both showed brilliantly from barrel, so maybe they are just in a difficult adolescent stage.

Our view of the Sauternes and Barsacs has not really changed. The wines are big and rich, but are not overly complex. In our view, those who declared 2011 to be an excellent year for sweeties slightly missed the mark. Some wines have definitely improved in barrel, but this is not another 2001. Our pick again was the wonderful Doisy Vedrines. Olivier’s wine has real tension and complexity. The bouquet is a melting pot of tropical fruit; the palate is awash with noble flavours and the acidity is remarkable. This is a Barsac I really want to drink!

In summary, there is much to like about this group of reds. There are good colours, lots of sweet, seductive, mid-palate fruit, soft tannins and freshness. They remind me of how 2001s started showing after a few years. It isn’t a vintage to lay down for decades, but the wines will give lots of pleasure. In the current, subdued market, it is difficult to make a compelling case to buy these, however, as they become available, they will be some of the best priced examples of physical stock, and they will drink well young. So while people wait for 2009s and 2010s to come around, the 2011s could be the answer.

Loire 2013 Preliminary Harvest Report

Loire specialist Charles Sydney recently sent us the following 2013 vintage report.  Charles and Philippa are not only stationed permanently in Chinon but also very close to many Loire growers. Their intel is therefore excellent….

The note of cautious optimism is a welcome relief. It seems 2013 in the Loire will go down as another tricky, but ultimately successful vintage (for those that put the work in)… 

Jean-Philippe from Domaine de la Taille aux Loups was even carrying the hotte! 

Apologies in advance for the long message - there's too much panic out there and we wanted to put some perspective on things.

Looking out the window at the moment, Phil and I are wondering whether to wander down to the Anjou to watch the picking today, or to leave it till tomorrow. It's misty, there was some rain yesterday (sunshine too) but the forecast is fine. Which sort of sums up the 4 weeks since harvest started here. That's obviously not perfect - but it's also nothing new.

2013 looks to be a perfectly normal (if slightly stressed-out) vintage.

Muscadet : started end September, the guys got hit by some rain beforehand, but in some sectors they needed it. Combined with warm weather, that meant a risk of rot, so it was time to pick.

Where the vines had been properly looked after, that was fine, even if we'd have liked slightly higher degrees. Better still in vineyards that had been grassed through, as the moisture went to the grass and the grapes were clearly riper and healthier.

By the end, the guys were happy to finish, fining some vats to eliminate any potential off flavours. In general, after a good cold settling the juice was tasting fine and the wines should be pretty good!

Sauvignon : started right at the beginning of October, with the same sort of conditions as in Muscadet - basically, if the grower looked after his vines, the harvest is fine, with reasonable degrees and balanced acidity. Again, there's more ripeness with growers prepared to grass through their vines or to cut out (as chez Jacky Marteau) any unripe or rotten bunches.

Also as in Muscadet, there was some rot so producers had to be particularly careful with the juice (inerting vats, fining the juice), but we've tasted enough grapes and enough vats of juice to be happy that the wines will be classically fresh and grassy.

Up in Sancerre and Pouilly, picking generally started a week later - around the 7th - and we're not

convinced they would gain anything by waiting.

Here you'll really see the difference between growers, with special benefits coming with growers who grassed through their vines and who were prepared to 'tri' the grapes either in the vineyards or in the cellar. 

Chinon and the reds : Some people have started picking, harvesting machines were out yesterday. They run the vineyards to get the best possible ripeness in a late vintage - grassed through vines, de-budding to keep bunches apart, high foliage for maximum photosynthesis, de-leafing around the bunches.... we've been there before!

Chenin starting to concentrate 

These growers have no need to panic - the grapes are healthy and ripening gently. This won't be a hyper-ripe 2009, but, well, more anon!!!

Chenin blanc : No idea yet - apart from seeing some first pickings to bring in some 'baby' moelleux with a potential of 18° and others to clean up the harvest to let the grapes ripen more.

With a bit of luck, we should see some pretty good dry chenins and maybe some moelleux, but that's guess work. we're off to see the grapes now (the mist has lifted) and we're off to Vouvray and Montlouis tomorrow.

More anon!!!

Best!

Charles and Phil

PS cliché time.... looks like this is (yet another) année de vigneron...

It started with a leg of lamb…

I’ve recently noticed the shape of wine bottles in our recycling bin changing – a seasonal shift perhaps. As the nights draw in and espadrilles have been replaced by wellingtons, my wine consumption has taken an Autumnal turn. The afternoons enjoying German Riesling and evenings sampling the delights of the Cote d’Or have given way to Sunday roasts and evenings in front of the fire getting reacquainted with some old friends.

As collectors have had their sights firmly on the best domaines in Burgundy, a once revered region has been languishing in relative obscurity. Bordeaux’s dominance and influence in the UK market has been rocked. Perceived overpricing and a weakening of demand from the Chinese market have hurt the reputation of this great wine growing region.

But when my father pulled out a bottle of d’Armailhac 2004 the other weekend to accompany a leg of lamb, my love affair with Claret was reignited. The 2004s are wonderful to drink right now. Domaine de Chevalier, Leoville Poyferre, even Haut Brion; all recent tastings have shown that this is a charming, accessible vintage to enjoy right now. But while the First Growths will dominate headlines and ensure the perception is that Bordeaux is still expensive, my recent forays into the cellar have proved quite the contrary. Bordeaux is producing some of the best value wines you can find anywhere in the world. Last week Mrs J and I drank four ‘little’ 2009s. Little in price perhaps, but certainly not in quality. Capbern Gasqueton is freshness personified, Calon Seguresque indeed. Chateau Villars is a big, impressive, Merlot dominated Fronsac, with bags of personality and ageing potential. While Villa des QuatreSoeurs is a classic, floral Margaux, so elegant and polished for a wine at this price level. My final encounter (for the time being) was the excellent Petit Bocq. This has real St Estephe minerality, lots of crushed stones, cooked meats and sweet berry fruit. One feels that this has a lot more to come, but that shouldn’t stop anyone popping open a bottle today. A feature of all these wines is their cashmere texture – the 2009s are decadent at every level. You can have so much fun with wines in this price bracket; if you have been wavering; these are guaranteed to restore your faith in the wines of Bordeaux.

Krug - A Tasting to Remember

Quality is something that Krug know a fair bit about, having made nothing but Prestige Cuvees every single year since 1843. Olivier Krug is at the helm of this great house and is committed to driving quality to ever greater heights.

We had the pleasure of Olivier’s company last Thursday. He kindly hosted a tasting in our cellar and a lunch for a few very lucky clients. We had the good fortune to learn all about the complexity of Krug’s Grand Cuvee, the Rose and the latest vintage, Krug 2000. They are fascinating Champagnes and ones to be enjoyed for the unique, complex styles they portray.

The Grand Cuvee is a blend of 10 vintages and over 120 different wines from numerous parcels and villages. Between 30 to 50% is produced from the most recent year and the rest a blend of up to nine vintages from the previous 15 years. We had examples of the Krug Grand Cuvee from the 2005 vintage, 2001 vintage and the 2000 vintage (as the base). Each was beautiful and individual. Since 2012, every bottle has a unique ID code, which allows the owner to learn about the cépage of their wine. Please click here to learn more.

Their superior and sophisticated rose is a rich blend of three different grape varieties and a wide range of vintages. It is remarkably versatile and is probably at its best accompanying food, allowing the structure, texture and beauty of the Cuvee to stand out. The Pinot really shows though giving plenty of red fruit character and spice; the Chardonnay the elegance.

Our final wine was the latest Vintage release, the 2000. This is already remarkably approachable, showing richness and intensity on the nose, the palate is indulgent, complex and precise. It is known by the Krug family as the, ‘stormy Indulgence’, due to the unusual climatic conditions the vintage experienced. You get the tell-tale biscuit and toasted brioche notes, with hints of smoke and oak on the pallet. It is rich and powerful, but is still young and tightly wound. This is underpinned with chalky minerality and citrus fruits making for a lively lift out of the brooding complex richness. The fresh but balanced acidity and fruit will let this age very gracefully and leaves a haunting, long finish.

Olivier spoke passionately about his wines and Krug’s heritage. Each wine is an individual and should be embraced and enjoyed to the full. It was a great pleasure to listen and learn from such an inspirational man. We look forward to organising more events with this wonderful house and enjoying their fabulous wines together in the future!

- Georgina Crawley, Private Client Sales Manager