Monday 7 September 2009

Burgundy 2006 from bottle: Morey-St-Denis

Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman

Two flights of Morey St Denis are relatively small for a top Côtes de Nuits village: eight 1er crus and six Grand Crus.

As a group they lack a single style that is enjoyed and recognised in other villages. This is born out by the the wildly different styles in both flights. The 1er crus are a mixture of green unripe styles and rich ripe structed wines. The Forges de Tart and Clos de la Boussiere from Roumier take the honours, both showing deep dark berry fruits and explosive ripe tannin structure.

My first experience of Clos de la Boussier was a defining moment in opening my eyes to Burgundy. The 1967 drank beatifully in september 1976 during a stay in northern Scotland. I have not looked back since.

The Grand Crus in the second flight show more consistancy of quality and ripeness. Clos de Tart just edging half a point ahead of the Clos de la Roche of Louis Remy and Clos de Lambray. These top wines are very good but the rest are patchy.