Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Bordeaux 2010 - Durfort Vivens and La Lagune

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Another barmy day on the Place. We can't help but feel that ego is getting in the way of business with the velocity of releases, or maybe Chateaux owners don't like us very much... It should be common sense that smaller Chateau can't compete with the big boys when it comes to stealing the limelight. Yesterday was dominated by Pontet Canet and Calon Segur, today has been dominated by the splendid 2nd Growth, Leoville Poyferre, so fromage à pâte dure for all the less glamorous wines. We would echo the sentiments of negociants, merchants and probably the paying public – please stagger the releases, we don't need to do the campaign in a fortnight!
The final releases of the day are Gonzague Lurton's second growth Margaux property, Durfort Vivens and the massively impressive La Lagune. Durfort was one of our picks of the vintage in 2009 and the 2010 is a worthy successor. Bravo Gonzague. It will be the cheapest 2nd growth of the campaign, but at £375/cs, this is something of a repositioning act by Durfort... La Lagune (£465/cs) is typically immense. Modern vintages of this Haut Medoc estate are commended by Bibby P. This effort gets a whopping 93-96 points!
'Is this 2005 deja vu "all over again"? Proprietress Caroline Frey has elevated the quality at La Lagune since acquiring this estate, and the 2010 is another superb effort as well as one of the better values in Bordeaux. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, black currants, licorice and subtle smoke and graphite. While uber-concentrated, full-bodied and pure, it retains both elegance and precision as well as a sensational 45-second finish. The suppleness of the tannins and stunning opulence suggest it will drink beautifully for 25+ years. 93-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194