CORTON
When tasting Corton at such events it’s worth remembering
that the Hill of Corton lies several kilometres north of Beaune whereas Pommard
and Volnay are equidistant south. In terms of Burgundy these terroirs are poles
apart. The two flights of Corton were a
step up in both quality and uniformity. The slightly later harvesting had
resulted in riper more concentrated wines.
Head of the pack of two flights was the Clos du Roi from
Etienne de Montille; high toned bitter sweet red fruits and suave fruity
tannins. Only a half point behind were the two Bressandes of Tollot Beaut;
damson and bramble fruits and long fine grained tannins and Follin Arbelet;
intense berry fruits, graceful, mineral and complex. Also showing great improvement over previous
years was the Corton Clos des Corton from Faiveley, youthful and showing slight
reduction it nevertheless has potential.
The Cotes de Nuits
The later harvest should have given all the 1er and Grand
Crus an advantage in allowing full phenolic ripeness and greater concentration
of juice. However as will be evident from following tasting notes, in some
villages the vinyeards higher up the Cote benefited more than some on the lower
slopes.
NUITS ST GEORGES
The diverse terroirs of Nuits St Georges were given due
respect in that we tasted five flights. Make no mistake, this is the most
improved village of the Cotes de Nuits over
the last five years lead by Robert Chevillon and the revival of Gouges as well
as the parts played by some of the Vosne Domaines; Cathiard, Meo Camuzet,
Grivot and Comte Liger Belair.
First up were the Clos from the most southerly vineyards
and the vast improvement in the quality of the Clos de La Marechale in the
hands of owner Freddy Mugnier. Brooding blackthorn and smoky minerals, silky
textured yet powerful and explosive - a
2008 of great potential. It easily took the laurels.
Two flights of the 1er Crus north of the town of Nuits St
Georges ( Vosne side) revealed an overall
high quality of finesse, elegance, minerality and purity. Sharing the highest marks were the Murgers of
Sylvain Cathiard; Intense yet powerful, full of old vine complexity and length
of pure pinot flavour; and the Cras of Comte Liger Belair; Beautiful bright purple
colour, blackthorn and damson, density and silky textured tannins. Others that
shone were an aristocratic Murgers, Moe Camuzet and a deep structured Cras from
Lamarche.
My notes at this stage show that until the 3rd flight of
Nuits we experienced no cork taint but more new oak than normal due to the low
yield against pre ordered new barrels.
The final two flights of Nuits from the central vineyards
(south of the town) were lit up by many great wines with the density of low
yields to cover the high acidity. Neck
and Neck for top honours were the Vaucrains of Gouges; all on power, depth of
fruit and length of flavour and the Cailles of Robert Chevillon; sweet
seductive , sumptuous tannins and wonderful mineral complexity. Other fabulous
examples included a powerful and explosive Les St Georges, Henri Gouges, a racy
Poret St Georges from Faiveley and delectable Pruliers, Chevillon.
Next: Clos Vougeot , Gevrey...
