Re-tasting the 2010s in the surroundings of the Royal Opera
House, it is hard not to get carried away with musical metaphors. From the
humble and inexpensive Chateau Beaumont to some of the most revered second
growths, the 2010s are pitch perfect. Colours are deep (several washes later,
my fingers are still evidence), bouquets are perfumed, palates are multidimensional,
tannins are sweet, ripe and extremely impressive, and finishes are hauntingly
long. In short, they are profound wines and in this taster’s opinion (and most
of the UK trade’s), clearly better than their lauded 2009 counterparts.
People will debate the various merits of 2009 and 2010 for
decades to come, but from the evidence of this tasting and others, this is the
greatest Bordeaux vintage in living memory, possibly ever. The wines can best
be described as ‘modern classics’ – demonstrating the purity and sweetness
achieved by perfectionist winemaking (and mother-nature) and the structure and
aging potential of past glories (think 1870, 1929, 1945 and 1961). They offer
all the hedonistic pleasure of the 2009s and much more besides...
A feature of this vintage is the remarkable consistency, but
we would by no means advocate purchasing everything. At the value end, we would
endorse Beaumont, Chasse Spleen, Poujeaux, Ormes de Pez and Gloria, whilst
amongst the big names, Both Pichons, Lynch Bages, Grand Puy Lacoste, LeovillePoyferre, Leoville Barton, St Pierre, Rauzan Segla, Smith Haut Lafitte and
Conseillante all triumphed. Many of the big names were not present at this
tasting, but we have seen enough from these wines and prior tasting of PontetCanet, Lafite, Ausone and the like to know that this a vintage without
comparison.
