Same story – not always the same result
The tale from vignerons is of three distinct seasons: a wet
spring with a difficult flowering, a dry and warm summer with the potential of hydric
stress, and a wet harvest with the potential for rot. It was certainly a
challenge, but one that some have risen to. Our first appointment was with the
dynamic Denis Durantou of Eglise Clinet. His range was spectacular (as usual).
La Chenade will be one of the best values, Montlandrie continues to push the
boundaries of what can be achieved in Castillon, and the Pomerols, Petite
Eglise and Eglise Clinet are spectacular, but sadly there is about 25% less
Grand Vin in 2012. Our next stop was an appointment with the Guinadeaus.
Pensees is a sensational second wine with real grand vin breed – Lafleur itself
is less massive and brooding than recent vintages, but is beautifully poised,
intellectual,.
Petrus’ 2012 was the first wine to be produced in the new
wine-making facility, built on their plot of Cabernet Franc. As a result the
cuvee is 100% Merlot and the wine is astonishing: grand, profound, voluptuous
and deep. A hop-skip-and-a-jump to VCC and a tasting with Alexandre Thienpont.
His Merlot plots adjoin Petrus and were very successful. Although the Cabernet
Francs were more of a challenge, he has used his very best plots to add
complexity and freshness to the final cuvee. As we have come to expect, another
wonderful wine from this high-flying Pomerol estate.
Next to Alexandre’s cousin, Jacques at Le Pin. The 2012 is
exotic and opulent and classic Le Pin. We also had the opportunity to taste
Jacque’s new St Emilion, L’If. We believe that the translation is Yew, so an
evergreen connection to Jacques’ Pomerol estate. The wine is beautifully
precise, with wonderful purity of fruit and great finesse.
We lunched at Cheval Blanc. Considering Yquem has decided
not to release a 2012, Pierre Lurton was in a surprisingly jovial mood. Although there
won’t be any more of the excellent Tour du Pin as the best 1.4 hectares has
been reclassified as Grand Cru Classe ‘A’ and will be incorporated into Cheval
Blanc, the latest acquisition, Quinault L’Enclos is beginning to show real
promise. Tiny yields mean there won’t be much wine, but it is definitely one to
look out for in the future. As for the Petit Cheval and Grand Vin, these are
two of the smartest wines we have tasted from this illustrious estate; they are
both profound, deeply serious wines that hit all the right notes with us...
Our tastings with Francois Mitjavile of Tertre Roteboeuf andRoc de Cambes are always highlights of any trip, and the 2012s are no
exception. Francois was at his humorous and thought provoking best. We will be
posting his views in the next few weeks; well worth looking out for... Both
wines excelled in 2012 and should be included on any self respecting wine
lover’s shopping list - they really are sensational wines.
Other high points of day one included a very smart Fleur de
Bouard and a really excellent Angelus, a charming and invariable a good value
Fonbel and a slightly controversial Ausone. I was thrilled by the multilayered
complexity, but the feeling was not necessarily unanimous. We also learnt of
Margaret Thatcher’s death whilst tasting at Evangile. Apologies to Domaine
Baron Rothschild as the news rather distracted us from your excellent wine – we
will forever remember the place where we heard the news...
In summary, the great terroirs on the plateau of Pomerol
have performed well with many good to excellent wines. St Emilion is patchier,
but this should not come as a surprise. The early ripening Merlots have
performed well producing seductive, powerful wines. Cabernet Francs were more
of a challenge, but when harvested at full maturity and used sympathetically,
they add complexity, perfume and freshness to the blends. All in all a strong
showing from the right bank.
