Germany 2010 - a potential legend

Like everyone else, I suppose, all I remembered about the 2010 German vintage were reports of doom and gloom that had already started to surface by September 2010, before the main harvest had even begun. People had all but written it off. So I came out to Germany in April 2011 with much scepticism after hearing reports from producers of "great things"

Difficult conditions throughout the 2010 summer were fortunately complimented by two factors: A bad flowering that meant potential yields were low, a good thing considering the poor summer that lay waiting, as fewer grapes mean easier ripening. The second factor was sunny, cool weather at the end of September through October, when the main harvest took place.

Early summer conditions and cool temperatures did mean that vintage was late, many growers were still picking into November. As Klaus Peter Keller put it "you had to not lose your nerve and wait until the grapes were ripe"

It is clear there are two sides to this vintage, commercial production and mediocre producers have meant lean, acidic wine. However totally on the contrary, top producers from top sites have made some stunning grosse gewachs and late harvest wines.

The crop is small but the wines are fabulously intense and concentrated, so much so that the extract covers the high acidities amply. It is also a vintage where the different soils and climates sing gloriously through each wine. This is a classic and should be a great one to lay down. As an example Zilliken has recorded the lowest crop for 30 years, but the highest ever average must weights.

So never has there been such a wide qualitative gap between the top and bottom wines in one vintage, but Riesling fans will not want to miss out on top growers' wines, at their best they could be something close to legendary

(pictured is the mightly Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg of Carl von Schubert)

Bordeaux 2010 value survey

QPR, seems to be a commonplace initialism amongst tweeters, bloggers and those on the wine forums. I suppose it’s a sign of the times. Everyone has embraced austerity and we all demand a little more for our hard earned dollar. Although Bordeaux is dominated by stories of record auctions in Hong Kong and stratospheric prices for First Growths, there is lots of value to be found, if you look in the right places...

After the UGC tastings, we ask our team to list their top ten wines from various categories including ‘best value’. Value is subjective of course. A Wall Street Banker’s concept of value may not be very well aligned to that of a St James’s Street wine merchant, but with hands on hearts we compile a list of what we think are the best buys from the vintage. If proof were needed, after we have removed our hands from our chests, we put them in our pockets (or handbags...). The likes of Petit Bocq, Valade, Clos des Quatre Soeurs and Capbern Gasqueton all feature in our own cellars.

For the complete list and for more 'top tens', please follow this link http://bit.ly/jN5y0X

Bordeaux 2010 - Capbern Gasqueton

The formidable Madame Gasqueton of Calon Segur also owns this excellent estate situated south of the town of St Estephe, between the vineyards of Montrose and Phelan Segur. Tipped as one of the best value buys of the 2009 campaign, the team here have managed a repeat performance.
Sadly the yield has been influenced by some hail damage in May, but the quality is unaffected. The J&B team were mighty impressed by the cool, sophisticated style here. Whilst it doesn't have the class of the mighty Calon, it was by no means overshadowed. This is another glorious St Estephe, which offers lots of intensity and refinement for the price tag.

Bordeaux 2010 - Clos des Quatre Vents

Luc Thienpont's Clos des Quatre Vents is one of the jewels in the J&B portfolio. We have been following the estate since the 2000 vintage and it just keeps getting better and better. Luc's side of the Thienpont family are 'garagistes'. His brother Jacques owns Le Pin (1.6Ha) in Pomerol. Clos des Quatre Vents occupies an even smaller 1.2Ha of superb deep gravel terroir on the croups of Margaux. Annual production is similar to that of Le Pin, so this is a rare bottle of wine (approx 600 cases are produced per annum). Major cru classes surround the Clos on all sides, yet Luc has not followed the garagistes' pricing strategy – this still offers lots of value for money.
Luc is a pragmatic man; he loves to be out in the vineyards. His devotion to his vines almost cost him an arm earlier this year when he had an accident with a pruning machine. Thankfully he has recovered well and he is back in his beloved vineyards. This is the essence of Clos des Quatre Vents. Lots of work in the vineyard ensures that the 80 year old vines produce healthy fruit, which in turn is gently vinified by Jacques Boissenot (consultant to all of the First Growths) to ensure an elegant wine with intensity, charm, and reflects its great terroir.
We are delighted that Neal Martin shares our enthusiasm for this wine and has awarded the 2010 92-94 points, the same score as Chateau Palmer (which the J&B team thought was the best Palmer in yonks...).
'Courtesy of Luc Thienpont, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the Clos des Quatre Vents is broody and introspective on the nose at first with liquorice-tinged dark berried fruits. The palate has a rounded, supple entry with crisp raspberry and wild strawberry, very harmonious and focused towards the caressing finish. This is a lovely Margaux...just a shame the production is so tiny. 92-94/100'. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Rieussec

Rieussec has enjoyed a great resurgence over the past decade. With the financial backing and technical know-how of Domaines Barons Rothschild behind them, the estate has flourished into one of the top names in the appellation. Situated on one of the highest points in Sauternes, close to the hallowed vineyards of Chateau Yquem, Rieussec has produced a string of excellent vintages under the stewardship of Charles Chevalier. The style has certainly improved since the Lafite team took over. We have noticed that the wines possess more intensity and finesse and have slimmed down somewhat, although they certainly haven't lost any of their concentration and sweetness. The 2010 is another wonderful example and is sure to delight those who admire great sweet wines.
If you're only going to buy one Sauternes this campaign - make sure it's Chateau Rieussec. If you would like to order a case, please register your interest by calling 00 44 (0)20 7484 6400 or emailing justorders@justerinis.com

Bordeaux 2010 - Beychevelle and Cantemerle

Today has proved to be the most exciting morning of the campaign so far. Chateau Beychevelle, one of the most sought after brands in China, and also a firm favourite in the UK has released at £675 per case. This is quite an increase on the opening 2009 price, but the 2009 is now trading at over £700 per case and will continue to head north, so it looks like a shrewd buy. Hopefully, this won't be seen as a green light to other Chateaux to put their prices up too – Beychevelle is a bit of a special case...
Soon after Beychevelle came Cantemerle. This elegant 5eme Cru Classé has been producing exceptional wines for the last decade. The 2009 was sumptuous, seductive stuff – the 2010 is equally alluring; a wine of great class and finesse. We were really impressed by the purity, concentration and the gentle tannic structure here – it is thoroughly deserving of its 91-93 points from Robert Parker.
'A quintessentially elegant style of Bordeaux, the opaque ruby/purple-tinged 2010 Cantemerle possesses elegant floral notes intermixed with hints of blueberries, raspberries, sweet red cherries and currants. Medium-bodied with impressive purity, concentration and texture, it is not a heavyweight, but rather a well-proportioned, stylish red that should drink nicely for 15-20 years`. Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194

Bordeaux 2010 - The 'best value' buys of 2010

Have you ever wondered what the J&B team buy from primeur campaigns? It's not Le Pin and Ausone as you may expect, we are a pretty tough team to please – we're some of the most demanding customers we have. We expect exceptional quality and we don't want to pay through the roof for it. There are two wines that always meet the criteria. Paul and Cedric Valade's Chateau Valade from St Emilion and Luc Thienpont's Villa des Quatre Soeurs from Margaux.
Let's tackle Luc's Margaux first. This is produced from 60-80 year old vines situated between the villages of Soussans and Tayac. The plot itself is a minute 1.5Ha based on deep Garonne gravels. Luc's oenologist is none other than Jacques Boissenot, consultant to all of the First Growths, and aging takes place in French Oak barrels for 18-20 months. As you can see, Luc takes this project very seriously, and all the hard work shows. We all fell head over heels for this little beauty.
Over on the other side of the river, Paul and Cedric Valade, the eponymous owners of our 'best value' wine of the vintage, are clearly delighted with their acquisition. This is only the fourth vintage, but it looks set to be a real hit. The 2009 was incredible, but sadly hail accounted for about half of the crop. 2010, despite small berries and uneven flowering has produced a healthier yield. Great news for those demanding, price conscious Claret drinkers (like the staff here...). Hurry to buy a case before the Chairman buys it all.

Bordeaux 2010 - Ormes de Pez and Puygueraud

This afternoon sees the release of Jean-Michel Cazes' St Estephe property Ormes de Pez. We were amazed by the improvements achieved in 2009 and we are pleased to report that the 2010 continues the fine form. Some have deemed it a 'baby Lynch', such is the quality and the unmistakable Lynch style. In truth, this is no baby, this is a large scale, impressive St Estephe.

The vineyards are situated in two plots, one north and one south of St Estephe town. Both are based on gravel and sand and are planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Lynch Bages' wine making team, led by Daniel Llose are making qualitative leaps here. We firmly believe that this Cru Bourgeois will be one of the outstanding values from the 2010 campaign.

Also new to the latest releases list is Château Puygueraud. This Thienpont estate in the Côtes de Francs has made a sensational 2010 and could be an estate to watch in the future. A Merlot dominated blend with a shot of Malbec, this exhibits a plush core of soft ripe fruit and complex notes of sweet earth and forest floor. All the critics have given the thumbs up, with James Suckling awarding a staggering 92-93 points. A lot of bang for the buck!

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Gazin

UGC Pomerol is usually something of a roller-coaster; some good, some bad and some slightly scary. The elite Pomerols produced by the Thienponts, Moueixs, Guinaudeaus, Rothschilds and Monsieur Durantou do not show, but there are still several exalted names such as Clinet, Conseillante and Gazin amongst the exhibitors. In what is probably the smallest Union tasting, there is a diverse array of styles and expressions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, from the sandy soils near Libourne to the clay and gravel terroirs of the Plateau.

Chateau Gazin is situated on the most westerly corner of the plateau next to the vineyards of Petrus and Evangile. Recent vintages have been impressive. The style has been big, powerful and tannic, so in this vintage of record concentration, record alcohols and record tannins, we braced ourselves to taste... What we found was one of the most graceful and elegant wines from the right bank. Extractions appear to be lighter and whilst this is still dense, with immense fruit content, it is also very detailed and framed with sumptuous tannins. Along with La Conseillante, one of the peeks.

We have also seen the release of AXAs Sauternes property, Chateau Suduiraut. We sampled this at Pichon Baron and at the Sauternes UGC and it was one of the top performing sweeties that we tasted. At almost £100 less than the 2009 and with 94-96 points from Neal Martin, this should appeal to those with a penchant for stickies.

Bordeaux 2010 - Video: Jean-Guillaume Prats, Cos d'Estournel

Bordeaux 2010 - Jean-Guillaume Prats, Director of Cos d'Estournel on what makes his 2010 so compelling and the differences between it and his majestic 2009.

The wines of François Mitjavile

François Mitjavile is one of the most philosophical characters in Bordeaux and is usually one of the most verbose too, so we were astonished when he retorted to our 'un mot' question with consummate ease... If you haven't already seen it, there is a link to 'un mot' below.

Arriving at his tranquil estate in the commune of St.Laurent-des-Combes on a beautiful, hot, spring evening in April, the J&B team descended into the pitch black vaults to taste. It was only when we were groping around for a banister that we realised sun glasses were no longer necessary. François' cellar is like being teleported to the Cote d'Or. There's nothing futuristic or glitzy, just cold stone walls and a gutter to spit in (reluctantly). It is always one of our favourite tastings as the wines are as colourful as the man himself. Roc de Cambes 2010 is the finest effort to date in our opinion. It is decadent, opulent, hedonistic, sumptuous, yet possesses classical freshness, velvety tannins and impeccable balance.

The Tertre is something of an orgy of flavours in a glass. To use a Parkerism (a man not too popular in this particular corner of St Emilion...), this is a `prodigious` effort. An utterly intoxicating, exotic, flamboyant Tertre Roteboeuf, but as with the sister property, one is not overwhelmed; balance is the key. Some merchants are linking François' wines on a 2:1 basis (2 Roc with 1 Tertre). We don't think that this is necessary as the Roc de Cambes sells itself. You can buy a case of Tertre Roteboeuf on its own, but you'd be mad to miss out on the Roc de Cambes!

On another calm day on the Place, we have only seen two other releases of note. Olivier Casteja's wonderful Doisy Vedrines; always one of the best value Barsacs and Lafaurie Peyraguey, a 1er Cru Classé Sauternes. The 2010 sweeties will almost certainly be overlooked as it is the reds that will capture all the headlines, however, there are some really attractive dessert wines and at £245 per case, you can't go wrong with the Doisy Vedrines.

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Providence

Right at the heart of the plateau in Pomerol lies Providence, a beautifully restored, elegant Chateau surrounded by ten acres of vines. Neighbours include exalted names such as Hosanna and Certan de May. Although a relative newcomer, Providence has been heaped with praise by Robert Parker, James Suckling, Jancis Robinson et al and is quickly establishing itself as one of the leading properties in the commune.

For many years the estate was owned and managed by the Dupuy family, who tended the vines with devotion, but lacked a little technical savoir faire. JP Moueix, ever alert to a good opportunity, spotted the potential and purchased the estate in time for the 2005 vintage. Since then the cellar and tank rooms have been rebuilt, the chateau has been blasted until it gleams and the Moueix team have implemented several changes in the vineyards. The results are staggering. Now that the Moueix team are achieving the full potential from the vineyard, the wines are consistently amongst the best performers in this star studded commune. The cépage is typically 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, grown on the well suited clay and gravel soils of the plateau.

The 2010 is a sensational wine with wonderful tension and minerality. We found it even more stylish than the flamboyant 2009; a truly seductive, harmonious and aristocratic Pomerol. Bravo.

'Resurrected by Christian Moueix, Providence is made in a muscular, macho style with considerable minerality as well as dense plum, blackberry and black currant fruit, a formidable quantity of tannin and stunning depth and richness. The classic 2010 is similar in style and personality to that of the great Moueix estate of Chateau Trotanoy. Forget it for 5-6 years and drink it over the following 25-30 years. 92-94+/100`. - Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194.

Bordeaux 2010 Video: Charles Chevallier, Chateau Lafite

The director of the hottest Chateau in Bordeaux talks to Hew Blair and gives a very interesting, succinct comparison between 2009 and 2010. If you wanted to describe the differences between the two vintages in a single sentence you'd be hard pushed to do it better than this...

Bordeaux 2010 - Un Mot

We asked some of the greatest names in Bordeaux the impossible question, namely to sum up their 2010 vintage in a single word. Never normally a set of winemakers to be short of words, this simple question provoked some thought provoking answers, and no shortage of umms and errs..

Featuring the men and women behind: Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Yquem, Ausone, Calon Segur, Montrose, Ducru Beaucaillou, Grand Puy Lacoste, Evangile, Conseillante, Le Pin, Petrus, Tertre Roteboeuf, Providence, Lynch Bages, and many more...

p.s. It is quite a large file so you might want to give it a minute or so to load up.

Reading between the lines...

So, Big Bob’s scores are out. 2010, as we all expected has been hailed as another exceptional vintage by the world’s most influential wine critic. There are plenty of potential hundred pointers to get consumers very excited, but as virtually no wines have been released we will focus on the reassessment of the 2008s.

Parker’s initial appraisal breathed life into a subdued market, battered by financial uncertainty and seemingly disinterested with Bordeaux 2008. The campaign was going nowhere until issue 182 of the Wine Advocate started landing on peoples’ doorsteps. High scores and high praise for the wines turned the campaign around and many customers bagged themselves a bargain. Unfortunately, Mr P wasn’t aware of what was to come (in 2009 and 2010).

So with hindsight we can say that he over egged the `08s a little, and as such most scores have been re-evaluated to the lower end of their initial range. Some have been downgraded a little further still, but those who read the notes will see that he is still a huge fan of these wines. The headline grabbers are Lafite and Ausone, both with 98/100. Praise and high points are heaped particularly on the wines from Pomerol and Graves and there are many 90+ point wines that won’t break the bank including the exceptional Chateau Poujeaux.

Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, Margaux & The Haut Medoc

In which Hew opines on his favourite Margaux properties in 2010, and his top value bargains from the Haut-Medoc...

Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, The Medoc

The road trip continues...Hew discloses his top picks from the Medoc and muses on the new popularity for having horses do the work that tractors would otherwise have been employed for...

Join the great `09/`10 debate

Call us sceptics, but we left for Bordeaux confident that 2009 was the greatest vintage we have ever tasted from barrel, and sure that 2010 would not live up to its distinguished predecessor. After a week of at times gruelling tastings, it is clear the 2010 rivals and could even surpass 2009. This is perplexing to say the least. 2009 enjoyed a near perfect growing season, 2010 did not. Poor flowering dramatically reduced yields; there was no talk of green harvests this year... In fact this was a bit of good fortune as the vines could not have coped through one of the most severe droughts in living memory with a full crop. This is a vintage characterised by a shortage of water, lots of sunshine and little extreme heat.

It wasn’t until the harvest started in perfect conditions that vignerons realised what potential the 2010s possessed. Analysis revealed that the tiny berries were super-concentrated, have huge tannin levels, wonderful acidity and big potential alcohols. One member of the team called the wines Neo-Classical; i.e. they are classically balanced but in an altogether new, bigger style. You could argue that they are Post Neo-Classical as vintages such as 2000 and 2005 are Neo-Classical and 2010 offers something altogether different. These are immense wines from top to bottom. In fact we were impressed by the consistency and quality of many petit chateaux. Words such as ‘monumental’ and ‘aristocratic’ have been used to describe the 2010s. They don’t possess the flamboyant character of the 2009s; they are at times reserved and brooding, but always powerful, intense, balanced and will no doubt last for many years.

In truth, it is impossible to favour one vintage; both are exceptional. Opinions are divided now and they will continue to be split for the next thirty or more years as these wines evolve. We stand by our comments last year – 2009 was and still is exceptional; at the time the greatest primeur tastings in living memory. We didn’t have the benefit of foresight... Now that we have tasted the 2010s there could be a new contender, but only time will tell. Much as the `28s and `29s have and continue to arouse discourse, the `09s and `10s have started a new debate.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Masterclass – Monday, 18 April

A celebration of Châteauneuf-du-Pape!

Justerini & Brooks are excited to host a tasting featuring Châteauneuf-du-Pape in all its glory at the fabulous French restaurant, Boundary, in Shoreditch. On offer will be an exquisite range of wines from Château Mont Redon, Domaine Jean Paul Versino/ Bois du Boursan, Vieux Télégraphe and Château de Beaucastel. The tasting will explore the varying styles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and will investigate the complexities of this historic appellation accross different vintages, all this around a selection of great Charcuteries and Canapés. Visit http://www.theboundary.co.uk/news/chateau-boundary/chateauneuf-du-pape-masterclass-monday-18-april-2011/index.php for further details and booking.

Voyager Estate - The Final Harvest Update April 2011

The final instalment of Voyager Estate’s harvest report.

"Similar to last year - we had just finished tipping our last bin of Cabernet Sauvignon into the de-stemmer and the rain started to fall. The harvest which commenced on the 9th of Feb and concluded on the 6th of April will be remembered for the warm and humid February and the perfect March weather which finished the reds off beautifully.

It was a season where patience was rewarded, as it was important to wait for the Cabernet Sauvignon and give it some hang time to ensure the tannins were fully ripe. Those who waited will make outstanding wines, with great concentration and fine, ripe, silky tannins.

The condition of the vine canopies at harvest was the best I have ever seen, with no sign of yellow leaves due to some timely midsummer rain. However, the fruit still showed evidence of the dry growing season, with small, deeply coloured berries and thick skins. Consequently the yields were quite low and came in just under our targeted range at around one and a half tonnes per acre.

The excellent quality of the grapes will see the fruit from most of our best vineyards spend a couple of weeks left on skins after fermentation which contributes great complexity and tannin structure to the wine.
Most of the Shiraz vineyards have completed fermentation and are looking fantastic with rich dark and red berry fruit and fine, complex layered tannins.

We have just started blending our Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon which looks great and the Chardonnay is potentially exceptional. The consistency of this region never ceases to amaze me and it really does fit the description as a "viticulturist’s paradise".

Cheers, Steve James"