Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Bordeaux 2010 - Domaine de Chevalier, Malescot St Exupery, Fonbel and Monbousquet
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer`Tasted three times, the Domaine de Chevalier has great precision on the nose with pure dark blackberry, dark plum, black olive compote and crushed flowers. The palate is just superb, mainly because of the crispness and tension in the tannic structure, framing a very precise, very focused Domaine de Chevalier that should age beautifully. It is almost understated but with great mineralité on the finish and superb persistency. Watch it blossom in bottle. 93-95/100`. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal
Chateau Malescot St Exupery casts an imposing shadow over the village of Margaux.There is something rather rustic and charming about the estate; however, the wines are anything but bucolic. Malescot is back on top form producing muscular, modern, sexy Margaux, which delight the critics (and us). The turn-around has been spectacular at this property; not long ago they were treading water, now this is one of the most sought after estates in the Medoc.
` This estate, which has been on a qualitative crescendo for over ten years, has made a prodigious 2010 that ranks alongside their 2009, 2005 and 2000. A gorgeous fragrance of spring flowers, cedarwood, black and red currants and hints of spice box and subtle oak is followed by a generously endowed, full-bodied, opulent wine with layers of concentration, a restrained yet exuberant personality, superb fruit purity and a long finish. There is plenty of tannin, no doubt elevated alcohol and wonderful freshness as well as delicacy. This beauty should drink well for 25 or more years. 94-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
We can also offer the wonderful Chateau Fonbel. This is Alain Vauthier's little baby and always represents terrific value for money. With the same team as Ausone at the helm it is hardly surprising that wines from this St Emilion property are stylish, pure and very seductive. The 2010 completes our list of best 'Value Buys'. Please follow the link below for the comprehensive list.
To complete our round-up, we have a Gerard Perse wine to offer, Monbousquet. From exceptionally low yields, this is big, modern; a testament to the Perse style of winemaking. It is well received by Robert Parker (91-93) and obviously appeals to the British palate too with 92-94 points from Neal Martin.
NEWSFLASH – We have a handful of cases of yesterday's hot ticket, Leoville Poyferre left at £1075 per case. This exceptional 2nd Growth has a mighty 95-98 points from Robert Parker and is set to join the likes of the 1990 and 2009 in the Poyferre hall of fame. A tremendous wine, so hurry...
` One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years. 95-98/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Kirwan
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerIn 1855, it was classified as a 3rd growth although its vineyards on the Cantenac plateau can hardly be called top terroir. The estate's fortunes suffered with phylloxera, World Wars and depression, but now under the ownership of Schroder & Schyler, things are turning around. The 2009 was very impressive and the 2010 shows plenty of potential.
Bordeaux 2010 - Leoville Barton and Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerAlso new to our list is the magnificent Smith Haut Lafitte. Daniel and Florence Cathiard have taken this Pessac estate to the next level. The wines here outshine many of the top names from the more fashionable communes and are challenging the likes of Haut Bailly, La Mission and even Haut Brion for supremacy in the Graves. 2010 receives a spectacular 95-97 points from Robert Parker, and it is well deserved, we were blown away by the seductive fruit, silky texture and sheer class here. At £865 per case, it is a little dearer than last year, but the quality is so exceptional, it more than warrants the price...
Bordeaux 2010 - Durfort Vivens and La Lagune
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerThe final releases of the day are Gonzague Lurton's second growth Margaux property, Durfort Vivens and the massively impressive La Lagune. Durfort was one of our picks of the vintage in 2009 and the 2010 is a worthy successor. Bravo Gonzague. It will be the cheapest 2nd growth of the campaign, but at £375/cs, this is something of a repositioning act by Durfort... La Lagune (£465/cs) is typically immense. Modern vintages of this Haut Medoc estate are commended by Bibby P. This effort gets a whopping 93-96 points!
'Is this 2005 deja vu "all over again"? Proprietress Caroline Frey has elevated the quality at La Lagune since acquiring this estate, and the 2010 is another superb effort as well as one of the better values in Bordeaux. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, black currants, licorice and subtle smoke and graphite. While uber-concentrated, full-bodied and pure, it retains both elegance and precision as well as a sensational 45-second finish. The suppleness of the tannins and stunning opulence suggest it will drink beautifully for 25+ years. 93-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
Bordeaux 2010 - Round-up
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerPlease find a round-up of the releases from last week, plus a second tranche of Pontet Canet below. Particular mention should got to: Langoa Barton (the best wine made to date at this 3rd growth estate), Malescot St Exupery (a spectacular and exotic Margaux with 94-96 points from RP), another splendid Domaine de Chevalier, our surprise package Balestard La Tonnelle and two big scorers in Cantenac Brown (92-94+ RP) and La Lagune (93-96 RP).
It is also worth pointing out that our 'Top Ten Value Buys` have all been released, and not a single one will set you back more than £160 per case. We believe that these would stack up against anything at a comparable price from any wine producing region in the world. Proof it were needed that Bordeaux still offers value.
Thursday, 9 June 2011
Burgundy 2011 - The view from the vines at Domaine Grivot
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerThe last couple of days have been cooler, no bad thing, with temperatures hovering around 17C. Growers are hoping this might slow things down a little...
Thanks to Mathilde Grivot for sending these photos through and keeping us up to date with life as a winemaker in Vosne Romanee.
Bordeaux 2010 - Château Balestard La Tonnelle
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerBordeaux 2010 - Talbot, Langoa, Reserve de Comtesse and more...
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerTravelling a little further inland and a little further down the 1855 classification, Chateau Talbot has joined the party. It is perhaps fair to say we liked rather than loved Talbot this year, but it nevertheless is a concentrated age worthy effort built in a classical style. And compared to some it has only a modest increase on last year's price.
Reserve de la Comtesse has, in our opinion, hit the nail on the head this year. Beautifully styled and refined with a textbook Pauillac nose and wonderfully fine tannins this is a very good and handsome second wine, with another modest rise on 2009 (though still a rise we hear you say).
Also out today, Jonathan Maltus' St. Emilion garagiste property Le Dome. Quite possibly unique in Bordeaux in that it is now made up of 80% Cabernet Franc, it received a laudable 94-96 from Parker, and was also tasted very well by the J&B team.
From the Moueix stable we have Certan de May, whose vineyards sit next to Lafleur, VCC and Petrus. At £840 it is a flamboyant effort that will no doubt be considerably cheaper than its neighbours.
*Stop Press* One final release, just out Cantenac Brown at £430 cs ib. Controversial in that its power and concentration that belie its appellation, it is nonetheless a very impressive wine.
Bordeaux 2010 - Haut Bergey
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerBordeaux 2010 - Giscours, Echo de Lynch Bages, Pagodes
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerEcho de Lynch Bages represents something of a relative steal this vintage. Crafted very much in the mould of Lynch Bages, without such enormous power but with added accessibility and juiciness and a beautiful vivacity. Lovers of the Cazes style will not be disappointed.
Pagodes, what can we say about Pagodes? As modern and sleek as its brand new winery, it is a tour de force of winemaking craft and once again sits stylistically and recognisably beside its bigger sibling.
'Possibly the finest Pagodes the estate has produced, as Jean-Guillaume Prats said, this 2010 is better than many vintages of Cos d'Estournel produced in the sixties and seventies. Forty-five percent of the production made it into this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot that achieved 14.1% alcohol naturally. Plump and fat with an abundant concentration of black fruits as well as outstanding intensity, purity and texture, this beauty should drink well for 10-15 years. 90-93/100'. - Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
Tuesday, 31 May 2011
Latour sale kicks off Christie's Hong Kong Spring Sales Series with 100% sell-through rate
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer"The Hong Kong Spring sales began on a high note with the sale of ‘Rarities from the Cellar of Château Latour’ on May 28th, 2011 which achieved a 100% sell-through rate over an eight-hour long session. Offering 392 lots direct from Château Latour, the sale totalled HK$ 59,718,000/US$ 7,673,763/ £ 4,675,919/ € 5,416,423, with 95% of sold lots over the high estimate and 14 lots over HK$1 million. The top three lots were all Vintage 1961, 6 magnums, which sold for HK$1.8 million/ US$ 231,300/£ 140,940/€ 163,260 each.
Thursday, 26 May 2011
Burgundy 2010 - An update from Domaine Grivot
Posted by Mathilde Grivot
Growth started at the usual time and was consistent thanks to summer temperatures in late April. But 2010 was one of the rainiest years ever recorded during the vines’ growing period.
During the summer, the weather was very cool and vines and fruits growth up normal. These conditions played a predominant role in ensuring that the vines remained healthy.
At Domaine Grivot, we took the decision to use only organic products for vines in 2010 and we are very happy; for the first time, we saw how the plant was able to cope with all of these weather challenges without external assistance. The foliage stayed a glorious deep green, the skin of the fruit had incredible thickness and all the different elements ripened in perfect harmony. Very good news for the future!
We started grape-picking on 23th September in cool weather with a light northerly wind. We record 40% less production compared to a normal year. However, given the weather experienced during the vintage, this also explains the marvellous quality of the harvest. The vintage is promising.
The wines produced are superbly balanced, in the spirit of the 2000 vintage but with greater density. Colours are dense and luminous. A generous palate with an incredibly delicate finish. Tannins are silky and sophisticated. Without any doubt a great success and a tribute to all the hard work in the vineyards over the last few years.
I have a liking for the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellations this year. They are superb and have a great elegance, freshness, harmony, fineness and structure.
Concerning the 2011 vintage? Very early to ask about it!
But the high temperature, at the beginning of spring, gives the premonition of a precocious vintage. The vines are crazy!!
The third week of April, we recorded, in Vosne-Romanee, 22 days earlier than 2009…
At the middle of May, flowering was blooming. Just one week was required to pass this stage.
If we count like the ancients, one hundred days, we should harvest around of the 20th August in Vosne-Romanee and Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Hopefully the weather will be cool this summer.
Tuesday, 24 May 2011
Germany 2010 - a potential legend
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director
Difficult conditions throughout the 2010 summer were fortunately complimented by two factors: A bad flowering that meant potential yields were low, a good thing considering the poor summer that lay waiting, as fewer grapes mean easier ripening. The second factor was sunny, cool weather at the end of September through October, when the main harvest took place.
Early summer conditions and cool temperatures did mean that vintage was late, many growers were still picking into November. As Klaus Peter Keller put it "you had to not lose your nerve and wait until the grapes were ripe"
It is clear there are two sides to this vintage, commercial production and mediocre producers have meant lean, acidic wine. However totally on the contrary, top producers from top sites have made some stunning grosse gewachs and late harvest wines.
The crop is small but the wines are fabulously intense and concentrated, so much so that the extract covers the high acidities amply. It is also a vintage where the different soils and climates sing gloriously through each wine. This is a classic and should be a great one to lay down. As an example Zilliken has recorded the lowest crop for 30 years, but the highest ever average must weights.
So never has there been such a wide qualitative gap between the top and bottom wines in one vintage, but Riesling fans will not want to miss out on top growers' wines, at their best they could be something close to legendary
Monday, 23 May 2011
Bordeaux 2010 value survey
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux BuyerAfter the UGC tastings, we ask our team to list their top ten wines from various categories including ‘best value’. Value is subjective of course. A Wall Street Banker’s concept of value may not be very well aligned to that of a St James’s Street wine merchant, but with hands on hearts we compile a list of what we think are the best buys from the vintage. If proof were needed, after we have removed our hands from our chests, we put them in our pockets (or handbags...). The likes of Petit Bocq, Valade, Clos des Quatre Soeurs and Capbern Gasqueton all feature in our own cellars.
For the complete list and for more 'top tens', please follow this link http://bit.ly/jN5y0X
Bordeaux 2010 - Capbern Gasqueton
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerSadly the yield has been influenced by some hail damage in May, but the quality is unaffected. The J&B team were mighty impressed by the cool, sophisticated style here. Whilst it doesn't have the class of the mighty Calon, it was by no means overshadowed. This is another glorious St Estephe, which offers lots of intensity and refinement for the price tag.
Bordeaux 2010 - Clos des Quatre Vents
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerLuc is a pragmatic man; he loves to be out in the vineyards. His devotion to his vines almost cost him an arm earlier this year when he had an accident with a pruning machine. Thankfully he has recovered well and he is back in his beloved vineyards. This is the essence of Clos des Quatre Vents. Lots of work in the vineyard ensures that the 80 year old vines produce healthy fruit, which in turn is gently vinified by Jacques Boissenot (consultant to all of the First Growths) to ensure an elegant wine with intensity, charm, and reflects its great terroir.
We are delighted that Neal Martin shares our enthusiasm for this wine and has awarded the 2010 92-94 points, the same score as Chateau Palmer (which the J&B team thought was the best Palmer in yonks...).
'Courtesy of Luc Thienpont, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, the Clos des Quatre Vents is broody and introspective on the nose at first with liquorice-tinged dark berried fruits. The palate has a rounded, supple entry with crisp raspberry and wild strawberry, very harmonious and focused towards the caressing finish. This is a lovely Margaux...just a shame the production is so tiny. 92-94/100'. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal
Friday, 20 May 2011
Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Rieussec
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerIf you're only going to buy one Sauternes this campaign - make sure it's Chateau Rieussec. If you would like to order a case, please register your interest by calling 00 44 (0)20 7484 6400 or emailing justorders@justerinis.com
Wednesday, 18 May 2011
Bordeaux 2010 - Beychevelle and Cantemerle
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerSoon after Beychevelle came Cantemerle. This elegant 5eme Cru Classé has been producing exceptional wines for the last decade. The 2009 was sumptuous, seductive stuff – the 2010 is equally alluring; a wine of great class and finesse. We were really impressed by the purity, concentration and the gentle tannic structure here – it is thoroughly deserving of its 91-93 points from Robert Parker.
'A quintessentially elegant style of Bordeaux, the opaque ruby/purple-tinged 2010 Cantemerle possesses elegant floral notes intermixed with hints of blueberries, raspberries, sweet red cherries and currants. Medium-bodied with impressive purity, concentration and texture, it is not a heavyweight, but rather a well-proportioned, stylish red that should drink nicely for 15-20 years`. Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
Bordeaux 2010 - The 'best value' buys of 2010
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerLet's tackle Luc's Margaux first. This is produced from 60-80 year old vines situated between the villages of Soussans and Tayac. The plot itself is a minute 1.5Ha based on deep Garonne gravels. Luc's oenologist is none other than Jacques Boissenot, consultant to all of the First Growths, and aging takes place in French Oak barrels for 18-20 months. As you can see, Luc takes this project very seriously, and all the hard work shows. We all fell head over heels for this little beauty.
Over on the other side of the river, Paul and Cedric Valade, the eponymous owners of our 'best value' wine of the vintage, are clearly delighted with their acquisition. This is only the fourth vintage, but it looks set to be a real hit. The 2009 was incredible, but sadly hail accounted for about half of the crop. 2010, despite small berries and uneven flowering has produced a healthier yield. Great news for those demanding, price conscious Claret drinkers (like the staff here...). Hurry to buy a case before the Chairman buys it all.
Tuesday, 17 May 2011
Bordeaux 2010 - Ormes de Pez and Puygueraud
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerThis afternoon sees the release of Jean-Michel Cazes' St Estephe property Ormes de Pez. We were amazed by the improvements achieved in 2009 and we are pleased to report that the 2010 continues the fine form. Some have deemed it a 'baby Lynch', such is the quality and the unmistakable Lynch style. In truth, this is no baby, this is a large scale, impressive St Estephe.
The vineyards are situated in two plots, one north and one south of St Estephe town. Both are based on gravel and sand and are planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Lynch Bages' wine making team, led by Daniel Llose are making qualitative leaps here. We firmly believe that this Cru Bourgeois will be one of the outstanding values from the 2010 campaign.
Also new to the latest releases list is Château Puygueraud. This Thienpont estate in the Côtes de Francs has made a sensational 2010 and could be an estate to watch in the future. A Merlot dominated blend with a shot of Malbec, this exhibits a plush core of soft ripe fruit and complex notes of sweet earth and forest floor. All the critics have given the thumbs up, with James Suckling awarding a staggering 92-93 points. A lot of bang for the buck!