Burgundy 2006 from bottle : Nuits-St-Georges

From Beaune the step up to the Côtes de Nuits is a big one. The quality jumps by an average of two points in twenty per wine on my scale.

The five flights of Nuits St Georges - forty five 1er crus in total - are of a uniform high quality and not a single dog amongst them. They have a gloss and silky concentration to add to big structures and fine tannins.

Flight one are the most southerly ( Premeaux ). All are Clos. I gave first equal place to Freddie Mugnier's Clos de La Marechale. It was packed with rich dark fruits, a wonderful complex middle palate and sumptous tannins

Flight two, and the first of the northerly Vosne-side Nuits. The top four in this group, which included Robert Chevillon's Chaignots, have an extra dimension. Herbs, minerals even floral violet notes and complete structures.

Flight three; more of the same but from the heavy weight Domaines of Vosne. The Nuits St Georges Aux Boudots of Domaine Leroy and the Nuits St Georges Cras of Lamarche take the honours closely followed by Nuits Boudots of Grivot and Nuits Cras of Comte Liger Belair. These are beautifully poised and polished wines of exceptional quality.

Flights four and five from the central Nuits vineyards lying just south of the town centred on the big three 1er crus: Cailles, Vaucrains and Les St Georges. As a group they have more richness and succulence than any other with dark berry fruits that explode on the palate. The Roncieres of Grivot and the Les St Georges of Chevillon being amongst the stars.