Tuesday 1 September 2009

Burgundy 2006 from bottle - Day 1: Gevrey

Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman

Seven flights of Gevrey from 30 different sources. 64 wines in total.

Gevrey experienced exceedingly dry weather conditions prior to harvest so no dilution was to be found in these flights; three of 1er Crus and 4 of Grand Crus. Indeed there was remarkable consistancy of pure, well structured balanced 06's. Plenty of ripe dark fruits and good vineyard definition. Amongst the best of the lower lying vineyards was the Drouhin Laroze 1er Cru.

The second flight of steeper 1er crus included blacker coloured wines with high tannic extraction that blurs the vinyard definition and Pinot delicacy. Why Gevrey has this new wave group of growers persisting in making this style that in my experince does not age well or give any pleasure is a mystery and a shame.


Flight three includes my favourate two vineyards after the grand crus of Clos de Beze and Chambertin itself, namely Cazeties and Clos St Jacques. This flight really did in my book outperform the grand crus that lie below the Route des grandes vin . I awarded the Cazeties of Rousseau and the Clos st Jacques of Bruno Clair top marks.


Of the four flights of grand crus that followed the Latricieres showed real energy, mineral complexity and ripe red fruit qualities. Wines that will improve while being drunk after decanting. I scored the Drouin-Laroze just ahead of Louis Remy.


Flight seven showed why Clos de Beze and Chambertin are a cut above all other Gevrey Grand Crus. The 06's were fabulous with rich textures and packed with energy, beautiful fruit and structed tannins. My top mark went to the sumptuous Bruno Clair example with Rousseau and Louis Remy not far behind.


All in all serious wines that have clear vineyard definition, ripeness and purity of fruit - and the structure to age well over the next 6-12 years.