The Remi Rollin 2008s performed admirably well at 8.30am in the morning, they have the mineral streak that are so beloved of Pernand's wines with a hint more generosity and exoticism than the 2007s. The Sous Fretille is one of Burgundy's best kept white secrets and the 08 version will not disappoint its loyal followers. On to Burgundy's holy grail, Vosne Romanee. It may have been a bleary-eyed start to the day, but one can hardly complain with the rest of the day's schedule that includes Lamarche, Comte Liger-Belair, Etienne Grivot and Meo Camuzet. In 2008 Lamarche have gone up another gear from their very promising 2007s, Nicole is clearly making great strides with the winemaking since taking over fully from her father in 2007. Richebourg from Grivot was a stand out wine, great energy and finesse for this vineyard which can so often be explosive but rather cumbersome in its youth, however the piece de resistance for me, unsurprisingly I guess, was La Romanee from Comte Liger Belair. Tasting in the cellars under the Chateau de Vosne Romanee is always a treat but this was something else. The 2008 La Romanee is more expressive and open than any other I can remember at this stage whilst retaining its classic subtley and guile. Fine, floral, juicy and sophisiticated with a breathakingly long finish. 08 has really started shaping up nicely, it says alot for the vintage that there have been little or no disappointments but many high points. As with any vintage troubled by awkward weather during the growing season this won't be a vintage to buy any old where, but importantly for Burgundy lovers the growers who usually make good wine have done sowith some style this year.
