The balmy 19 degrees of two weeks ago seem like a long time ago. Burgundy is firmly back in line with the seasons, its cold, wet and windy. The weather does not stop this place being beautiful, though, its still a real treat to be here. Before decamping to the Cotes de Nuits we finish off the remaining Cotes de Beaune cellars that we did not manage to visit last time round. The day started with Follin and some thoroughly attractive 2008s, Romanee St Vivant was a real stand out and promises much for our visit to Vosne Romanee tomorrow. His even more seductive 07s followed, topped off by an excellent 2006 Chapitre (a vintage Frank considers to be up there with his best,surpassing 2005.)Frank has really proved himself an enormously consistent and talented winemaker over the last 5-10 years. We then briefly switched Cotes to Flagey-Echezeaux and Emmanuel Rouget, who for once had remembered his appointment and was at home rather than in a field somewhere shooting game as is so often his want. Some 2008 wines of great potential here, however the Cros Parantoux had barely started malo and was difficult to see into. The 2007s eclipsed the 08s, though. It reminded me what a great success Emannuel's wines were in 07, definitely up there among the vintage's creme de la creme. Some good wines have been made chez the short-clad Eric de Suremain, Rully Preaux was a beauty and the Clou de Chene would not look out of place in a flight of top Volnays, and ditto some excellent whites at Martelet de Cherisey, but Vincent Dancer (pictured) was the showpiece of the day for both Hew and I, even at villages level the wines have a depth, intensity and above all finesse that I think will be hard to rival. Vosne here we come.
