Sunday 7 October 2012

Bruno Clair on 2012 Burgundy - Aout Fait le Mout?

Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director

If this addage rings true then 2012 has the potential to be an excellent vintage in parts of Burgundy, despite bad weather from flowering through to August. The weather turned for the better from August onwards, perhaps getting a little too good in the third week with a mini heat wave, and lasted right the way through to the end of September.  There was mildew early in the season and flowering and fruit set were poor, which means 2012 is a tiny crop.  Hail in localised parts of the Cote exacerbated the naturally small quantities.  However, rather like in 2010, it looks as if the small crop has helped ripen grapes and produce good quality.  

Bruno Clair, one of Burgundy's most skilled and experienced viticulturists, shares the following thoughts on 2012:

The good weather has not left us alone (only one passage of rain 26/09). Also quality is with some return. In addition to the efforts of vines, that of us vignerons has made this prize well deserved.  

Yields are small, Dominode has produced 18hl/ha and Clos St Jacques 22 hl/ha.  In terms of the quality of the reds there are several certainties.  The sugar content is excellent as well as the malic acid tartaric report/ratio acid. These parameters ensure us of a beautiful balance.
The indigenous yeasts behaved well. No fermentation problems and tanks which go up quietly to 32° - 34° (excellent for the extraction of the colour and the fixing of the tannins). The berries, this year, contain more pulp than of juice. It is necessary to go back to the year 1971 to find similar concentration. To summarize, the colour and the tannins are very present and I think that the wines will be well constructed with the supplement of plenty of fat. I am as extremely satisfied with the qualitative results as much as I am to see the end of the season, it has been a complex one!