Domaine Bruno Clair

Domaine Bruno Clair is perhaps the grandest under the radar producer in Burgundy. Its origins lie in one of the great old Burgundian domaines, Domaine Clair-Dau. For a full account of the fascinating, if ultimately saddening, history of Domaine Clair-Dau please see Clive Coates excellent book Cote D’Or: A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy. The story, in a nutshell, begins with a soldier, Joseph Clair (Bruno’s Grandfather), returning from the first world war to convalesce in Burgundy and falling in love with Marguerite Dau. Marguerite had inherited, along with her sister, eight hectares in Marsannay. Joseph took over these vineyards, replanted and began to expand the domaine. Through the 1920s and 30s he purchased land in Combe aux Moines and Estournelles St Jacques in Gevrey-Chambertin, Amoureuses in Chambolle-Musigny and Bonnes Mares. With the help of his son Bernard, he aquired more Bonnes Mares and some Clos Vougeot followed swiftly by Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers and Clos St Jacques through the 50s. They then added a venerable plot in Savigny-Les-Beaune La Dominode with vines planted in 1902 (many of the same vines are still producing for Bruno today!) and the year after almost a hectare of Chambertin Clos de Beze. In the early 70s Bernard added Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Clos du Fonteny and Vosne-Romanee Aux Champs Perdrix which is just up the slope from Romanee-Conti. Not a bad haul. It is very hard to equate the steady acquisitions of a French farmer with the recent sale of the Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin with its two hectares of vineyards for eight million Euros. How things have changed in Burgundy.

Unfortunately when Joseph died in 1971 the domaine started to fall apart. The competing interests of his children ultimately resulted in the domaine being broken up with a chunk being sold to Louis Jadot with a further chunk under a metayage agreement; Monique Bart ran her quarter of the domaine which is now run by her son Martin and around half of the domaine was ultimately inherited by Bernard’s son, Bruno. As the metayage agreements with Jadot and also with Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair recently ran out Bruno has been able to reclaim even more of the old domaine. While the family war waged, Bruno quietly developed his own domaine which he build up to nine hectares, about a third of these holdings were vineyards that had been neglected since the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century. These days Bruno has a substantial domaine under his control (circa 21 hectares) with many outstanding parcels. He still has the old vines in La Dominode, a superb parcel in the centre of Clos de Beze and a significant parcel of Bonnes Mares much of which is from the original Clair-Dau domaine. A recent bottle Of Clair-Dau Bonnes Mares 1971 showed the amazing potential of this vineyard. An astonishing wine, it showed why in the right hands Bonnes Mares is up there with the very greatest vineyards in Burgundy.

Bruno is a true vigneron; knowledgeable, thoughtful and gentle. He has found a great oenologist in Philippe Brun and between them they combine a respect for tradition and deep understanding of the vineyards with openness to new techniques and a drive to improve. They quietly turn out a range of wines exceptional for their quality and breadth. As attentive to the Marsannays as they are to Bonnes Mares and Clos de Beze, the range at Bruno Clair is totally reliable, consistent and ageworthy. They also offer incredibly good value, especially in Marsannay and Savigny; whilst at the same time making Clos de Beze and Clos St Jacques which are on level with the very best wines of these two great vineyards. Bruno is known as an excellent viticulturalist. He is the kind of winemaker that other winemakers hold in high esteem. During a recent lunch, Sylvain Pitiot of Clos de Tart made the point to our buyer Giles that he thought that Bruno is one of the best vine-growers in Burgundy. He is similarly respected by the critics. Clive Coates and Jasper Morris both show great admiration for the domaine in their excellent tomes and Allen Meadows offers a perfect summary. He writes that “the wines demand involvement from those who drink them”. We feel that they enormously reward that involvement and are very proud to represent Bruno. We just don’t shout about him enough!

By Martin Buchanan

Alsace 2011 - Vintage Report

When searching for a word to sum up their 2011 wines Catherine Faller came up with 'seamless' - a word that very elegantly encapsulates much that is great about these new releases. Coming from the somewhat back to front 2011 vintage they could, at various times in the season, have turned out very differently. As it happens, the Weinbach style, always one of the most elegant in all Alsace, sits extremely well with the vintage vagaries that 2011 produced. From Sylvaner to Gewurztraminer, this set of wines should be both an utter joy to taste when young, and easily capable of medium to long term cellaring.

Unlike further south in Burgundy, the Faller's saw their yields back up at normal levels in 2011. An extremely dry spring, following on from one of the driest winters on record, led to a bud break three weeks ahead of usual. With a hydric deficit looming, mother nature responded with three refreshingly wet months in June July and August, before the barometer changed once again signalling the arrival of clear skies and warm, fine Indian summer-esque weather through September and October. These final warm dry conditions didn't bring about much in the way of botrytis, but what little that did occur was exceptionally clear and clean.

Harvest started on the 16th September with the early ripening Pinot Auxerrois (as found in the Pinot Blanc Reserve) and finished under clear skies approximately one month later with the final plots of the original Grand Cru Schlossberg.

Seamless really is a very fine word for this range.  With acidity levels above 2009 but below 2010, there is a delicacy, freshness of structure and sense of harmony to these wines that will no doubt make them incredibly easy to enjoy.

A J&B Rhône and Loire tasting review by The Wine Gang

The Wine Gang, which is made up of five of the most respected wine critics have been covering events in the wine industry for many years. Herewith a selection of their reviews from our recent Rhone and Loire tasting.

The Wine Gang: January 2013 Newsletter
Justerini & Brooks Loire and Rhône

Decidedly posh and traditional St James' Street wine merchant Justerini & Brooks has some very fine classic producers on its books, a number of which were on display at its showcase tasting of Loire and Rhône wines from the 2011 vintage. This is not generally held to be a great vintage in either region – certainly not as good as the preceding pair 2009 and 2010 – but the quality of J&B's producers ensured there are some excellent wines all the same. The wines are part of an en primeur offer, so the prices quoted are for a case of 6 or 12 bottles without duty or VAT, which will be added when you receive the wines over the next few months. To order, contact 020 7484 6400, email justorders@justerinis.com or visit the website, www.justerinis.com.

DRY WHITES

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2011
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône), France, Dry White (Cork),13.5% abv
Roussanne, Picardin, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc are the grape varieties here, but it's not really about the ingredients, more the the gently honeyed, peach and greengage fruit, subtle blossom notes and lingering richness of flavour. A complex but charming full-flavoured dry white. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 92/100 - £255.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.

Lucien Crochet Sancerre Culs de Beaujeu 2010
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
Managed by Gilles Crochet, son of Lucien, this is classic Sancerre as you expect, or rather hope, it will be: linear, mineral but not austere in style, it has mouth-teasing acidity balanced with bright lemon and pithy grapefruit – a strikingly pure and vivid Sauvignon Blanc. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 92/100 - £210.00 at Justerini & Brooks

Goes with: Fish & Seafood.

Vincent Pinard Sancerre Chêne Marchand 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.0% abv
Two-thirds of this fine, multi-layered Sauvignon Blanc is aged in new oak barrels, lending the wine a richness of texture, but the abiding character is one of immaculate citrus (lemon) fruit and classic Sancerre herbal, nettle-like flavours, lingering long in the very pure, clean finish. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 92/100 - £130.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Salads & Vegetable dishes, Fish & Seafood.

Vincent Pinard Sancerre Nuance 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
A whisper of Badoit-like salty minerals and a generous squeeze of ripe lemon give this Sauvignon Blanc its dangerously refreshing drinkability. The elderflower and passionfruit add an extra dimension. Another excellent wine from the consistently good Vincent Pinard. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 91/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
François Cotat Sancerre Caillotes 2011

François Cotat Sancerre Caillotes 2011
Sancerre (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),13.0% abv
A surprising and striking feeling of ripe fruit – both in the sense of fruit character (peachy, slightly floral) and texture (ample, rounded) – is the first impression on this characterful Sancerre. There's a nervy quality to the acidity too, however, leaving the finish clean and brisk. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 90/100 - £200.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Fish & Seafood.

Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sec Les Dix Arpents 2011
Montlouis (Loire), France, Dry White (Cork),12.5% abv
Jacky Blot is one of the Loire's best growers, dividing his focus between Chenin Blanc at Domaine de la Taille aux Loups in Montlouis and Vouvray and red wines from Cabernet Franc at Domaine de la Butte in Bourgueil. This is typically energetic and vibrant Chenin from 50-year-old vines, with a mouthwatering tension between baked-apple-and-nuts richness and punchy, tangy acidity. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 90/100 - £50.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.

André Perret Saint Joseph Blanc 2011
Saint Joseph (Rhône), France, Dry White (Cork),13.5% abv
Deftly oaked (20% new oak, the balance 1-3 years old), this quietly charming white Rhône blend of Roussanne and Marsanne has that wanderin-an-orchard quality of apples, plums and their blossom on the nose, while the palate has the not-quite-tart bite of just-ripe apples to keep it perky. Very good value for the quality. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 89/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Chicken.

DRY REDS

René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2011
Côte Rôtie (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
One of our favourite producers in the Rhône (or indeed anywhere), René Rostaing makes long-lived, ethereal Syrah that combines concentration with finesse, elegance and silk-like texture. From the top La Landonne vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, this is still a baby in that it will no doubt improve for years to come, but we found it surprisingly accessible now: the tannins athlete-sinewy and fine, the flavours all pure hedgerow fruit with the suggestion of a ferrous mineral meatiness. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 94/100 - £695.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places 2011
Côte Rôtie (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
From a single-vineyard in the Verenay commune of Côte-Rôtie, we loved the finesse, the contained, coiled-spring power and the purity of this 100% Syrah. There's perfumed, limpid red and black fruit and a hint of meaty-savouriness, too, in a very attractive, beautifully made Northern Rhône red. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 94/100 - £560.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Greal 2011
Hermitage (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
Henri, son of Marc, Sorrel, has 4 hectares in Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, and this wine, a blend of two vineyards, Meal (90%) and Greffieux in Hermitage, is an evocative expression of the region. Quite plush and silky in feel, its red and blackberry fruit is vividly drawn with an outline of black pepper and fresh cherry-like acidity in a long, harmonious finish. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 93/100 - £385.00 at Justerini & Brooks

Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de Dioterie 2010
Chinon (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Young winemaker Kevin Fontaine makes several cuvées in Chinon at Charles Joguet, and this is arguably the finest, a red of no little concentration and depth but which is distinguished by its wonderful fluency and silkiness of texture, subtly floral red and black fruit and, for want of a better (or less French-poetical) word, energy. Very fine Cabernet Franc. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 93/100 - £110.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2010
Bourgueil (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Having made his name with Chenin in Montlouis, Jacky Blot has repeated the trick with Cabernet Franc since acquiring the 14-hectare Domaine de la Butte in 2002. From unusually low-yielding 50- and 60-year-old vines (20 hectolitres per hectare for the fact-spotters among you), this is a Loire red to challenge Bordeaux, featuring chalky but fine tannins and deep, dark hedgerow fruit, but presented with a certain sinuous elegance of texture. Will certainly repay a few years in a cool, dark place if you have one. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 93/100 - £80.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.5% abv
From one of the great names of the southern Rhône, this is very open and attractively sweet-fruited on the nose, with spicy blackberry and raspberry, and a slight toffee-ed edge. The palate is denser, but it's not the behemoth you sometimes find in these parts, the tannins being suave rather than chewy or thick, and the finish quite sprightly and fresh. You could broach this now, or wait a few years: a good, if not great, Beaucastel. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 92/100 - £235.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2011
Gigondas (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
A small domaine that produces just this single cuvée each year, and it's a delightful one in this vintage, with soft summer-pudding fruit sprinkled with black pepper and cooling green herbs and a succulent, supple feel. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 91/100 - £115.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.

Domaine du Coulet Cornas Brise Cailloux 2011
Cornas (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
Using fruit from the lower slopes in his four-hectare property, this is one of up-and-coming Northern Rhône producer Mathieu Barret's more accessible (in price and style) wines, a fragrant, sapid Syrah from Cornas of great drinkability, with a slight medicinal edge to the red fruit and cracked pepper. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 90/100 - £240.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2011
Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),14.0% abv
Ripe and sweet-fruited, with an almost toffee-ed cast to the red berries, plum and blackberries, this offers a blast of southern French sun for the depths of winter, a happy-go-lucky Grenache-dominated blend (there's a little Mourvèdre, too) from top-flight Châteauneuf producer Le Vieux Télégraphe. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 89/100 - £195.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.

Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Gaby 2011
Côtes du Rhône (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Best known for their work in Hermitage, Domaine du Colombier's more affordable Crozes is no slouch either, a powerful, earthy and savoury red, with a streak of cracked pepper and herbs, a meaty core and, in this vintage, an attractively perfumed red-fruited quality. Good length, good value. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 89/100 - £150.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Domaine Etienne Pochon Crozes-Hermitage 2011
Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.5% abv
"Playful" is the word J&B uses to describe this Syrah from the unpretentious but talented Etienne Pochon, and that gets it exactly right: it's the sort of juicy, sinewy, vibrant and just plain drinkable red that this appellation does so well when it gets the yields right. Pepper, blackberry, raspberry and a subtle savoury streak – bring on the steak-frites. (The price is for a 12-bottle case.)

Rating: 89/100 - £85.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Red meat & Dark game.

Château du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Tuffe 2010
Saumur-Champigny (Loire), France, Dry Red (Cork),13.0% abv
Under the stewardship of Philippe Vatan, Château de Hureau is an oak-free zone, and this great value red (the price quoted here is for a 12-bottle case) shows the virtues of his approach. It's delightfully pretty on the nose with violet edges to the red fruit, and succulent and juicy on thepalate, with a subtle cooling green edge. Classic Cabernet Franc for drinking over the summer months.

Rating: 89/100 - £75.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Duck & Mild game.

SPARKLING WINE

Domaine Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sur Loire Triple Zero
Montlouis (Loire), France, Sparkling White (Cork),12.0% abv
A properly dry sparkling Chenin Blanc – the title refers to the fact that the wine has had no dosage, no chapitalization and no residual sugar – this is an exceptional alternative to Champagne, although it has more than enough personality of its own to make the comparisons redundant. Apple – baked, fresh off the tree, and blossom – is the dominant theme, but it's the driving acidity and clarity that makes it truly refreshing and special. (The price is for a 6-bottle case.)

Rating: 93/100 - £55.00 at Justerini & Brooks
Goes with: Aperitif wine.

You can visit The Wine Gang on www.thewinegang.com.

Holdvolgy - The Trials of Tokaji

An update from our Tokaji producer Holdvolgy, that gives an insight into the waiting game involved in late harvested noble rot Aszu wines. 

The whole range of Holdvolgy wines showed brilliantly in a recent tasting held at the Connaught. Both dry and sweet these wines have a freshness and delicacy that repays constant revisiting in the glass...

2012 - Tiny quantities of high quality Aszú

2012 was not dissimilar to 2011, a kind of extreme Mediterranean summer that put us to the test again. But, thanks to our exceptional crus in Mád basin and careful viticulture, even the little rain we had was enough to ensure the ripening.

Bud break came on time, flowering for early ripening varieties took place by the end of May. Bunch yield and fertilization were optimal, too.

Due to the strong vegetative growth and the corresponding intensive phytotechnical work this year we were the first in the region to harvest our dry wines: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Muscat a petits grains.

Fermentation of our dry wines takes place in used oak, allowing development without imparting any oak characteristics. According to our philosophy we use no cultured yeasts either, the result being a fermentation process that took 2 months! The results should be outstanding.

During autumn the quantity of rain was sufficient, but due to the earlier dry weather the thickening of the bunches’ skins made conditions for botrytis difficult. In early October the botrytis finally arrived, widely and quickly. From that point then we continuously harvested small quantities of he aszú berries that were extremely rich and had perfect concentration.

Finally, however, October finished wet. The long-awaited warm breezy weather didn't arrive and the continuity of the external humidity slowed the concentration process of the berries. On October 27th and 28th we had so much rain that aszú harvesting came to an end.

However, the high-quality Szamorodni bunches we harvested before the rains, that were pressed in our newly built winery with our freshly arrived JLB press, show great promise. The wines are concentrated, silky, rich, some weighing in at almost 22% alcohol potential (which corresponds to a 5 puttonyos aszú) The JLB press follows the principle of the classical presses,but thanks to pressing on higher pressure without loosening, the result is that this way we really get the berries’ essence, nectar out of it.

At the end of November we started aszú winemaking process. For this process Stéphanie chose fermenting Furmint must from Becsek and Holdvölgy crus, its nice acidity structure gives freshness and dynamism to aszú wines. After a few days of maceration, the aszú berries swollen by the fermenting musts were also pressed with JLB press.

And though the quantity fell short of the expectations (approx. 1.500 bottles of 37,5cl)  because only the most concentrated and best quality aszú berries  were harvested then selected one by one, the quality and the taste is irreproachable.

Healthy bunch of Furmint.

Meaning "as they come",  Szamarodni bunches offer a little bit of everything...

A whole bunch of Aszu

Fully botrytised Aszu berries...

A state of the art winery built on ancient cellars.

Burgundy 2011 - Buyer's trip in images

Fine Wine Portfolio Tasting in Hong Kong

Tuesday night saw Justerini & Brooks host its Portfolio Tasting in Hong Kong, which was held at Azure at the very top of Wyndham Street, looking out over Hong Kong island below.

With 200 guests coming to taste a range of top domaine bottled Burgundies, Rhones, Barolos and Brunellos, and a broad flight of 2009 Classed Growth clarets on show. J&B is very proud of its success in Hong Kong over the past 36 years, and our maximum capacity on the night represents our continued presence with the major collectors in Hong Kong . Nearly 50 wines were shown, from all across France and Italy. With some favourites being Roberto Voerzio, Robert Chevillon, Gaja, La Conseillante, Leoville Las Cases and Rene Rostaing.

Our growing team in Hong Kong look forward to many more tastings in the near future.

Burgundy 2011 Vintage Report

"Summer in Spring and Spring in Summer"  was how almost every grower I spoke to described the 2011 vintage during my two week tasting marathon in Burgundy earlier this month.  Flowering was early and pointed towards a mid August harvest. A rainy summer started off cold and heated up considerably from mid August onwards, the mercury reaching 38 degrees at one stage.  These mixed conditions did their best to slow down ripening, but nonetheless the majority of growers had started picking by the end of August as many felt the vine had already completed its cycle and had ripened grapes to their maximum.  Waiting any longer was a question of either benefiting from September's cool north wind and increasing grape concentration or allowing grapes to lose freshness and precision, depending on who you talk to.  Patrick Javillier started on the 23rd August, the earliest of his 38 vintages, yet produced grapes of good sugar levels, with 12.5 degrees of potential alcohol, and excellent fruit ripeness. An extraordinary feat.  Thanks to disease pressure, poor flowering in some sectors and heterogenous ripening, the crop is a small one, though on average slightly bigger than 2010.  Over three vintages, 10,11 and 12, vignerons calculate they have lost a whole year's crop. Fortunately, though, it sounds as if the vast majority of growers are sufficiently concerned about not alienating the loyal customers actually drinking their wines to limit any price increases to a minimum.  Lets hope this holds true.  

If the conditions sound rather similar to 2007, that is where the comparison ends.  The 2011 whites are fruitier and more generous and whilst very fresh, are not as searingly acidic. The white wines are along the lines of 2002 perhaps with a drop of 2001.  They are open, transparent, crisp but very seductive.  They will drink extremely well from the off.  The 2011 reds are fresher than their 2007 counterparts, they have more density and precision too.  The Cote de Nuits & Cote de Beaune seems equally good and I did not notice in my notes any obvious trends within specific communes, save that I tasted many great Batards (J-N Gagnard's among the finest they have produced of recent years) and some quite brilliant Clos de Vougeots.  Across the board the reds seem to me to be like a rather successful blend of the Cote de Nuits 2000 and 2001 vintages, as ripe as the former but more concentrated, with the freshness of the latter.   Prior to summer the reds were aromatic and pretty but perhaps just lacking a little substance, however they have gained enormously during elevage and now display a level of concentration I did not think they had, whilst retaining their ripe, perfumed fruit and suave, soft tannins.  They too will drink young thanks to their fruitiness and velvet textures but many of the Premiers and Grands Crus have the depth to suggest ageing potential of 10-15 years.

Apart from fruitiness, the other thing that both reds and whites have in common, and what makes this vintage most brilliant of all, is such a clear cut difference in character between each wine.  Burgundy's great strength, its mix of terroirs and the nuances they lend to each wine, sings loud and clear in 2011. One of the reasons for this would almost certainly be that this is a refreshingly low alcohol vintage, most growers naturally reaching a maximum of 12.5 to 13 degrees.

So many of these 2011s totally seduced me -there will be a lot of pleasure to be gained from drinking them- that it is hard to pick out favourites.  Particular tastings that stick in my mind, however, were at Paul Pillot; Bachelet-Monnot; Sauzet; Marquis d'Angerville, Frank Follin (who seems to be on something of a hot streak at the moment); Chevillon; Barthod; Mugnier; Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair; Etienne Grivot; Arnaud Mortet and Bruno Clair.

Pinpointing particularly successful areas is even more difficult however at a glance I would say that in addition to the great Batards and Clos de Vougeots i have already mentioned, i would add the Volnay commune in general; the higher stonier vineyards of Puligny & Chassagne and then take your pick from any of the mid to high slope Premiers or Grands Crus vineyards in the Cote de Nuits.

I look forward to our January offer & tasting with immense anticipation.

Coming over the next week will be a report on this summer's Burgfest: An update on 2009 Burgundy in bottle.

Hitting all the right notes...

Re-tasting the 2010s in the surroundings of the Royal Opera House, it is hard not to get carried away with musical metaphors. From the humble and inexpensive Chateau Beaumont to some of the most revered second growths, the 2010s are pitch perfect. Colours are deep (several washes later, my fingers are still evidence), bouquets are perfumed, palates are multidimensional, tannins are sweet, ripe and extremely impressive, and finishes are hauntingly long. In short, they are profound wines and in this taster’s opinion (and most of the UK trade’s), clearly better than their lauded 2009 counterparts.

People will debate the various merits of 2009 and 2010 for decades to come, but from the evidence of this tasting and others, this is the greatest Bordeaux vintage in living memory, possibly ever. The wines can best be described as ‘modern classics’ – demonstrating the purity and sweetness achieved by perfectionist winemaking (and mother-nature) and the structure and aging potential of past glories (think 1870, 1929, 1945 and 1961). They offer all the hedonistic pleasure of the 2009s and much more besides...

A feature of this vintage is the remarkable consistency, but we would by no means advocate purchasing everything. At the value end, we would endorse Beaumont, Chasse Spleen, Poujeaux, Ormes de Pez and Gloria, whilst amongst the big names, Both Pichons, Lynch Bages, Grand Puy Lacoste, LeovillePoyferre, Leoville Barton, St Pierre, Rauzan Segla, Smith Haut Lafitte and Conseillante all triumphed. Many of the big names were not present at this tasting, but we have seen enough from these wines and prior tasting of PontetCanet, Lafite, Ausone and the like to know that this a vintage without comparison. 

Teso La Monja Almirez given 94/100 (only £13.78 a bottle)

Señor Parker recently posted a piece about the number of great value Spanish wines on a particular American importers list.  He refers to them as a  reference point for some of the finest wines emerging from Spain. Top of his list of red wines was none other than J&B favourite, Teso La Monja Almirez, from the great Eguren clan, which at £57.50 per six under bond has to be the cheapest 94 point wine on our list.

Almirez, Teso La Monja, Toro 2010 - 94/100
"Even richer is the 2010 Almirez, which comes from a vineyard planted at an altitude of 2,300 feet. Yields were 18 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine was aged 12 months in mostly French oak (30% new). This fabulous, inky/purple-colored wine exhibits notes of violets, graphite, licorice, blackberries and cassis. Full-bodied and rich with silky tannins as well as abundant minerality, this super-rich, full-throttle 2010 can be enjoyed over the next decade.

These are two extraordinary wines produced by the Eguren family in the province of Zamora in Toro. Readers who love full-flavored, robust, exuberant red wines will adore these two 2010s."

Teso La Monja named Spanish Winery of the Year 2013

Teso La Monja, the Eguren Family's Toro property, has been awarded the Penin Guide 2013 "Best Winery of the Year" award.  Here's what they said...

"October 26, 2012, Madrid. - The Penin Guide 2013 has awarded 'Teso La Monja'- 'Best Winery of the Year', during the award ceremony held last Friday in Madrid which closed “Peñín XIII, a presentation of the Best Wines of Spain”. The award honors the winery for having placed three of its wines - 'Victorino', 'Alabaster' and 'Teso La Monja'-on the podium of exceptional wines of Spain, with a score above 95 points.
The award is, according to the Penin Guide, "a recognition of the merit of maintaining  high quality in a variety of brands."  'Teso La Monja' was competing alongside, Bodegas Barbadillo (DO Jerez), Bodegas Artadi (DOCa. Rioja) and Sierra Cantabria (DOCa Rioja) another of the Eguren Family’s wineries

Founded in 2007, 'Teso La Monja' represents a new era for the Eguren Family.  Having arrived in the area of Toro 15 years ago with Numanthia Termes, the family of grape growers have now established and positioned their new wines, “Romancio, Almirez, Victorino, Alabaster and new born Teso La Monja on the podium of the most representative wines from our country” says Peñín

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According to the editorial team of the Penin Guide, "The winery's skill is such, that even in difficult vintages, they are able to position their wines as the most rated of the appellation, showing a path of territorial identification and understanding of vineyard.  This serves as an example for new creators coming to Toro, seeking to capture the expressiveness and authenticity of the Tinta de Toro variety."

Loire 2012 Harvest Report

A few notes from the Loire on the just harvested 2012 vintage from Charles Sydney, Loire resident and specialist....

"The 2012 harvest is pretty well over, with just a few parcelles of chenin hanging out in the Layon, waiting for the weather to go cold, sunny and windy (the forecast is good), in which case we may get some stickies this year after all. Keep praying!

Otherwise :

Dry whites - sauvignon & Muscadet : as per, quality is good to fantastic in Muscadet, Touraine, Sancerre & Pouilly Fumé, with the Muscadets promising to be among the best ever. Quantities are way down in Muscadet and Touraine but look fine in Sancerre & Pouilly.

Muscadet's yields are a problem and compounded by the appellation going from 13000 hectares to under 8000 as growers have ripped up or abandoned 40% of the vineyards since the 2008 frosts as bulk prices have been way below production costs. Luckily the serious single estates have survived so far. Hopefully you'll be able to use the quality of the vintage to really put across to the consumer just how attractive this appellation can be.

Reds - cabernet franc : starting 2 weeks later than average (and a month later than last year) was always going to be a gamble, so the rain end September that helped ripen the sauvignons were less of a blessing here, especially as the last couple of weeks have seen about 5 inches of rain. That said, there's been hardly any rot until this week (picking is now effectively over) so although there's obviously been some concentration lost as growers waited for ripeness, this should be a pretty and easy-drinking vintage for the cab francs.

Reds - pinots : Our guys in Sancerre and over in St Pourçain are pretty ecstatic about quality, with lovely ripeness - and the concentration that comes with low yields. 

Chenin Blanc - Vouvray, Montlouis & the Anjou : First things first : there won't be any great moelleux this year - but growers have stocks of the truly great 2010 and 2011 vintages, so that's not a problem.

For dry and off-dry chenins, things are looking surprisingly good, though again, yields are down. In Vouvray and Montlouis the juice is tasting fresh, clean and nicely aromatic. Less concentration than 2009 and 2010 especially, but this should make for a pretty, consumer-friendly vintage - and growers like Jacky Blot, who really did a serious 'tri' at harvest should make some super 'secs'..

Meanwhile, the hand-picked chenins of the Anjou are promising to be really lovely, with some real ripeness and concentration.

The proof of the pudding is of course in the eating, and we're about to start tasting with our growers all along the Loire. We expect to send you a 'real' vintage report early in the New Year.

I've attached some photos taken over the last 2 weeks of the harvest....

Enjoy!

Charles

23rd October -  Coteaux du Layon from the Sky...

The sorting table in the vines at Jacky Blot's Taille aux Loups in Montlouis

Stephane Branchereau's vines at Domaine des Forges

A report on the 2012 vintage on the Tuscan Coast

HARVEST REPORT 2012 ON THE TUSCAN COAST

Consultant oneologist and Duemani owner, Luca d'Attoma, gives us the low-down on the 2012 vintage on the Tuscan Coast:

“The harvest was characterized by inhomogeneity of maturity and this not be blamed only on the climate during August but also thanks to the irregular fruit set at the end of May, which came about as a result of sudden drops in temperature and strong humidity. This has resulted in different maturation of vines in the same vineyard.  To make high quality wines there had to be at least three stages of harvest.  We are missing from 20% to 30% in volume of wine, not so much thanks to the Summer heat but more for the drought in the Winter and Spring.  A heatwave in August was followed by an important lowering of the temperature at the beginning of September, nights were cool at about 15 ° - this stimulated and awakened the plants’ vitality and spurred on the ripening of the grapes.  On the coast we harvested Merlot within the first half of September and Cabernet  started from the third week, with great results. Sangiovese in the most important areas such as Morellino were harvested from the first to the third week of September and here we will also have interesting wines suitable for long ageing.

The general health of grapes was very good. In the last days of September we had rain and strong moisture so it has been necessary to make a strict selection but the wines will be of an excellent level."

Bordeaux 2009 revisited

     Since the Bordeaux 2009 campaign, opinion has hardened against the vintage in some quarters. Scepticism over Robert Parker awarding 19 “perfect” scores has bloomed and reference has been made to the apparently contradictory tasting notes which many have written. Can a vintage be at once rich, full and tannic yet vibrant and fresh? Did we all get caught up in the hype? The 2010 vintage has muddied these waters still further providing a more classic, brooding counterpoint to the friendly 2009s.
     The 2009s have been gradually arriving in the UK over the course of the past year and the time is ripe (pun intended!) to re-taste. We decided to begin at the lower end with AOC Bordeaux, Cru Bourgeois and a few well priced interlopers (tasting notes below).
     I felt some trepidation in the run up to this tasting. 2009 is an important vintage for collectors and for the wine trade.  I was blown away by the 2009s en primeur and I was blown away again last night. The 2009s performed brilliantly. They were ripe and rich with plenty of tannin and higher alcohol than one expects from Bordeaux yet balanced, vibrant and fresh. I guess we’ll just have to live with the contradiction! There was lots of red fruit, only a small amount of jam, enough concentration of fruit to balance the alcohol and plenty of acidity. Some are ready to drink, others best left alone but I would be happy to own any of them. I can’t wait to taste the class growths!
-Martin Buchanan

1. Château Peyrat 2009, Côtes de Castillon - £48.00/dozen IB
   Crunchy red fruits. Very vibrant. Fresh, with a sense of stones and minerals. This is fantastic value!
2. Z  2009, Bordeaux - £60/dozen IB
   Juicy and really nicely textured. Very fruity but with good line and a fresh, satisfying finish.
3. Château Greysac 2009, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc - £85/dozen IB
   Classic cassis and cigar box nose. Full of fruit with a sense of wet stones and earth. This should provide lovely mid-term drinking.
4. Château Reynon 2009, 1er Côtes de Bordeaux - £95/dozen IB   
   Brambly dark fruits. Plush, sweet Merlot with hints of the exotic. This carries its weight really well and finishes fresh and crisp.
5. Château La Grande Maye 2009, Côtes de Castillon - £95/dozen IB
   Crunchy and fresh with stoney, gravelly undertones. This softens in the glass to reveal plush sweet fruit but remains very vibrant. 
6. Château Beaumont 2009, Cru Bourgeois, Haut Médoc - £105/dozen IB
   Rich and lush with a pleasing savoury character, a touch of spice and firm supporting tannin. This benefits from an hour or so open as the mid palate fills out the frame. Fun now but will benefit from some time to settle in bottle.
7. La Chenade 2009, Lalande de Pomerol - £120/dozen IB
   Absolutely delicious from the off. Rich yet cool fruit with a mineral frame.  Very satisfying and incredibly drinkable. 
8. Château Villars 2009, Fronsac - £130/dozen IB
   Up front, juicy and round. A solid effort but somewhat eclipsed by the wines either side of it.
9. Château Picque Caillou 2009, Graves - £130/dozen IB
   Classic. Really well judged with great line. Delicious ripe fruit perfectly framed by refreshing acidity and supportive structure. This has terrific balance and should offer excellent drinking over the next decade.
10. Château Petit Bocq 2009, St Estephe - £150/dozen IB
    Classic St Estephe: stoney, leafy and mineral . This has the plushness of the vintage but remains fresh and satisfying. A lot of wine for the money.
11. Villa des Quatre Soeurs 2009, Margaux - £150/dozen IB
    Dark and concentrated with hints of chocolate. This is made from old vines (circa 70 years) and it shows. It is serious and complex and although offering plenty of pleasure now will reward a few years in bottle.
12. Château de Fonbel 2009, St Emilion, Grand Cru - £165/dozen IB
    Elegant and composed. Very controlled. Chocolate and Liquorice with a bit of earth and raw meat. Very drinkable indeed.
13. Château Valade 2009, St Emilion - £175/dozen IB
    Substantial and broad. A bit monolithic today but this has plenty of potential. This is made in a plush modern style but, once again, finishes fresh and bright.
14. Le Petit Haut-Lafitte 2009, Pessac-Leognan - £225/dozen IB
    Tense yet rich, creamy and delicious. This is well structured and pretty serious but lots of fun today. Drink or hold.
15. Château Cantemerle 2009, 5eme Grand Cru Classe, Haut Médoc - £240/dozen IB
    Classical styled with linear structure. Crunchy red fruit over plush dark fruit. This has some depth but offers lots of pleasure now. The tannins are very present but smooth and velvety.
16. Château La Fleur de Boüard 2009, Lalande de Pomerol - £240/dozen IB
    Creamy and rich with plenty of merlot character. Concentrated and deep. Somewhat four square today and would benefit from a few years to resolve a little but excellent material here. This is from the estate of Hubert de Boüard of Angelus fame and you can see a family resemblance. One for modernists who aren’t in too much of a hurry!
17. Château Les Ormes de Pez 2009, Cru Bourgeois, St Estèphe - £240/dozen IB
    Stoney, brambly, and concentrated. This is much more restrained than I found it en primeur. There is still plenty of plush fruit but the structure is serious and dry. The wine finishes crisp, fresh and tight. This needs a little time to unfurl but is at the top end of this selection in terms of absolute quality and potential.
18. Château Moulin St Georges 2009, St Emilion - £295/dozen IB
    This is plush but with very good restraint. It is textured, creamy, charming and absolutely delicious. The balance is very good and this should age nicely over the short to medium term but I am very happy drinking this now.   
19. Clos des Quatre Vents 2009, Cru Bourgeois, Margaux - £300/dozen IB
    Perfumed and expressive with brambly, cassis fruit, hints of lavender and garrigue. This is very Margaux in style with an utterly beguiling violetty perfume and an elegant, feminine, racy palate. This comes from a 1.2 hectare plot of around 80 year old vines and is certainly not short of stuffing. There is much to enjoy today but I think a few years slumbering would really bring out the best in this wine. This is terrific value for money!
20. Château Sociando-Mallet 2009, Cru Bourgeois, Haut Médoc - £315/dozen IB
    Raw meat and earth. Deep, dark cassis fruit. Brooding. This is concentrated and powerfully structured and will benefit from 5 to 10 years to settle down a bit. The fruit it ripe and delicious and all this needs a little time to harmonise. Very impressive at this level.
21. Château Haut-Marbuzet 2009, Cru Bourgeois, St Estèphe - £325/dozen IB
    Ripe, polished and modern yet with plenty of class. Very pure red fruit: cherry and wild strawberry over a core of cassis. As usual, this is made in an opulent style with smoky oak characteristics and a touch of vanilla. This is extremely slick and approachable and offers much more fun at this stage than the preceding wine. A couple of years in the cellar would certainly help but this is and will be accessible young. 

All tasted at Justerini & Brooks, 61 St James Street.

Rhone 2011 & other vintages: The North

The sunshine and warmth still holds out as I travel north, and its approaching mid October.  The 2012 crop is all in, from Hermitage to Cote Rotie, and successfully bubbling away in the cellars.  After the stress and hard work growers experienced during the summer it is fair to say they are pleased as punch with results that, a few months prior, they did not think possible.  It should be a very good vintage, though at this stage it seems the south has the edge over the north.  However there is a long way to go, a lot now depends on fermentations and elevages. 

Back again to 2011.  My first tasting in the North was with the garrulous and affable Mathieu Barret of Domaine du Coulet.  Cornas for breakfast might not be everyone’s cup of tea however Mathieu’s increasingly refined style made tasting young Cornas from barrel at 9.00 in the morning an absolute breeze.  It was a sheer pleasure to sample these wonderfully fine, precise and intense wines, they must be pretty unique in the appellation. He is a seriously talented and dynamic winemaker, his 2011s are irresistible.

Meandering further north to Tournon and Tain L’Hermitage chez Faurie, Domaine du Colombier, Pochon and Delas.  The wines here were exquisite, fruit sweetness, power but with the finesse and smoothness that seem to characterise this vintage.  Hermitage seems an excellent match for 2011.

There are some very smooth, attractive Cote Roties in 2011.  Clusel Roch’s for me were the pick of a good solid bunch. One perhaps expects rather less of St Joseph, being a large and highly variable appellation in all but the most consistent of years, though it must be said when you hit on one from a good producer its quality, value and sheer drinkability is second to none.  I found the 2011 St Joseph reds at Perret and Villard highly successful, the latter producer has refined his red winemaking style over the last three years, his ‘11s seem to be the culmination of these efforts – thoroughly moreish, seductive Syrahs that mix ripeness, elegance and a Rhone typicity.  They bear little resemblance to the bigger versions of his early years.

Many of these 2011 Northern Rhone reds gave me immense pleasure, I found them a notch above the Southern Rhone wines and considerably more consistent.  It was potentially a large crop here, as with their cousins further south, so limiting yields was important but unlike Chateauneuf and the Southern villages, alcohol levels were restrained, averaging 13 degrees natural.  The resultant wines offer ripe, fresh flavours, round textures and tremendous overall balance. They will be very enjoyable in their youth over 3-5 years after bottling, though i suspect the top wines will still be drinking well from 7-10 years after, best normally to avoid the 4-7 year hole after bottling when some vintages can go into a closed phase.  Producers compare 2011 to 2004 (a vintage drinking exceptionally well now) or 2006 but with a little less structure and acidity than the latter.  Other Northern Rhone vintages drinking well now are 2008, 2001 and 2000.  In Hermitage they recommend the 2006s already, whereas in Cote Rotie they are a little more tentative about the readiness of this very fine vintage.  

Rhone 2011 & other vintages: The South

The sun has been shining gloriously in the Rhone this week.  I spent Monday and Tuesday tasting in the South under bright skies and there was the distinct air of optimism and contentment amongst the growers, all of whom seem delighted with the 2012 harvest.  It has been a late vintage, not helped by an extremely dry season that resulted in vines shutting down.  As soon as a little rain arrived at the end of August ripening continued in brilliant conditions.  The crop is a small one but promises much, we will see.

My main purpose here, of course, is to taste the 2011s.  This is a very different vintage to 2012 and to any other Rhone vintage of recent years, for that matter.  Spring and early summer were unseasonably fine and hot, flowering was therefore very successful and the potential crop high.  This was one of 2011's challenges, limiting the crop.  The other was a heat wave at the end of August that resulted in grapes increasing in sugars and therefore potential alcohols very quickly, two degrees in a matter of days as one grower quoted me.  Summer had been mixed, there was not the drought that characterised the last two vintages. There was enough rain so ripening the grapes was no issue, limiting the ripeness and alcohol was the key as well as reducing yields enough to ensure a sufficient level of depth in the wines.

The results can be very good, they are not as concentrated as the 2010s or 2009s, in fact they are more supple in texture than any vintage since 2000, certainly no bad thing when the cellars are full of concentrated Rhone vintages such 2010 or 2009.  The best wines have lovely ripe red fruit flavours, great aromatic qualities, soft tannins and the glycerol sweetness you expect from the Southern Rhone.  The most successful wines are those that are not too ripe or alcoholic.  Chateauneufs with a good proportion of Mourvedre or Counoise, that temper the ripe Grenache with their freshness, have done well - such as Beaucastel or the Felix from Versino. Higher cooler areas have been successful, namely Gigondas, particularly those from the high Dentelles vineyards like Clos des Cazaux's Tour Sarrazine; Vinsobres or way up high in the Dentelles the better than ever wines of Chene Bleu.

2011s will be ideal to drink young in the first 5 years after bottling and will give lots of pleasure in the process.  This is good news, as there are few other vintages that look like being ready any time soon.  2010s and 2009s are too young.  2007s have gone into that typically Rhone mid-life crisis, they have shut down  and should be left in the cellars for a good 5 years.  If you are looking for something to drink now then the initially maligned 2008s are very attractive and "digest", while still in the flush of their youth.  If it is something older you are looking for then, after a closed phase, 2004, a Chateaneuf vintage we have always championned, is starting to show quite brilliantly.  This is a vintage of tremendous balance.  Otherwise head for the ripe, seductive and complex 2000s

News from the North at the end of the week.

Elio Altare's 2012 harvest

Silvia Altare from Elio Altare wines shares with us their prosperous Harvest of 2012, and what to expect from the vintage. 

"Harvest 2012 started Thursday the 6th September, with some juicy delicious dolcetto grapes. The weather has been pleasant to us, apart from two large hail storms that randomly hit some vineyards; one in late July and one in early August. Other than the storm we have had a regular season.

We spent August cleaning berry by berry from the hit vineyards, like for Cannubi I can promise you I know every single grape there!!

We have finished barbera picking and getting to the end of the nebbiolo. We also did the vineyard Cerretta in Serralunga yesterday, an amazing location for amazing grapes.

The nebbiolo grapes started flowering in the 
end of May, and as my dad has taught me, like his father Giovanni taught him - nebbiolo needs more or less 130 days. During which, will allow the plant to go through all the phases of growing to ripening. So there we are, “math is not an opinion” as we say in Italian! The nebbiolo harvest started at the end of last week. It might sound like a joke, but it’s not, you know already in spring when harvest will start.

We are experiencing in general, with all the varieties, lower level of sugar, which will offer us lighter alcohol wines, but still with all the fruitiness and freshness that you need.

The staff at Altare hasn’t changed; we all know each other very well and have been working together for years. We always bet at the beginning of the season who is going to gain more weight, since we all know that we are going to gain at least 3 kg because of my mom’s lunches, in spite of all the exercise that we do!! So far it looks like my boyfriend Massimo is going to be the winner…

Another great Piemonte vintage is on the way!

Saluti da La Morra

Silvia Altare"

Bruno Clair on 2012 Burgundy - Aout Fait le Mout?

If this addage rings true then 2012 has the potential to be an excellent vintage in parts of Burgundy, despite bad weather from flowering through to August. The weather turned for the better from August onwards, perhaps getting a little too good in the third week with a mini heat wave, and lasted right the way through to the end of September.  There was mildew early in the season and flowering and fruit set were poor, which means 2012 is a tiny crop.  Hail in localised parts of the Cote exacerbated the naturally small quantities.  However, rather like in 2010, it looks as if the small crop has helped ripen grapes and produce good quality.  

Bruno Clair, one of Burgundy's most skilled and experienced viticulturists, shares the following thoughts on 2012:

The good weather has not left us alone (only one passage of rain 26/09). Also quality is with some return. In addition to the efforts of vines, that of us vignerons has made this prize well deserved.  

Yields are small, Dominode has produced 18hl/ha and Clos St Jacques 22 hl/ha.  In terms of the quality of the reds there are several certainties.  The sugar content is excellent as well as the malic acid tartaric report/ratio acid. These parameters ensure us of a beautiful balance.

The indigenous yeasts behaved well. No fermentation problems and tanks which go up quietly to 32° - 34° (excellent for the extraction of the colour and the fixing of the tannins). The berries, this year, contain more pulp than of juice. It is necessary to go back to the year 1971 to find similar concentration. To summarize, the colour and the tannins are very present and I think that the wines will be well constructed with the supplement of plenty of fat. I am as extremely satisfied with the qualitative results as much as I am to see the end of the season, it has been a complex one!

latest on 2012 harvest from Burgundy

News in from Morey St Denis, Cecile Tremblay, from her brand new cellars, reports the following on Burgundy 2012:

" The 2012s are in Cuve.  I finished harvest yesterday (having started the 20th September) The grapes looked sumptuous as the came.  At the moment I feel delighted with this vintage (a vintage that looked so complicated in Spring and early summer.) "

more from the Cote de Nuits next week

Mas Martinet - Cradle to Grape...

Congratulations to Sara Perez who on the 16th August gave birth to a baby boy. The pictures below show Sara foot crushing the grapes (with one month old in sling) that will make up the as yet unreleased Pesseroles Blanc. Evidently Sara's dedication to the cause shows little sign of abating!

A last minute addition to Germany 2011

I am much looking forward to our German Riesling 2011 tasting & offer next week.  We have delayed the tasting this year until September so that we can show for the first time the Grosse Gewachs and the current JJ Prum vintage (June is always too early for them.)  Another wine got added to the team sheet this week, an uber fine Herrenberg Auslese Fuder 15 2011 from Carl von Schubert of the old monastic Maximin Grunhaus estate in the Ruwer.  It had not been bottled when I visited the estate back in May so I was unable to taste it.  A very different wine to Abtsberg, the redder slate soils make for a less powerful, mineral but finer and fresher Riesling than the grey blue slate of Abtsberg.  They will go shoulder to shoulder next week and should provide a startling contrast to each other.

As usual we will be offering wines from the good and the great of Germany and are particularly pleased to be showing a larger selection of dry Riesling than ever before.

I am excited at the prospect of reacquainting myself with 2011.  My fond memories in May were wines of purity, clarity, less botrytised richness than in most recent vintages but with a great balance between intensity of flavour and feather-weight lightness - this is what makes German Riesling on slate so unique and thrilling.