Not so long ago, Luciano Racca, from Domenico Clerico, came
to see us. It was a short while before we started what has become our biggest
and most successful Italian En Primeur
campaign to date. Having tasted the
whole gamut, it is now quite clear that the 2007s across Piedmont are nothing
short of sublime. They combine intense fruit profiles with high-toned aromatics,
sumptuous ripe tannic structures with fresh acidities. They really do have
everything going for them, and anyone with a serious interest in fine wine to
lay down, Barolo lover or not, should probably have at least one case in their
cellar. (yes I know we are bound to say that, but in all honesty, it is true!)
Wednesday, 28 September 2011
Burgfest 2008 Vintage: Beaune, Volnay & Pommard
Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and ChairmanIn a secluded location in Beaune over the late August bank holiday the most recently bottled vintage of Pinot Noir was put under the microscope. The UK's top Burgundy buyers plus specialist Burgundy wine writers and publishers Clive Coates and Neil Beckett made up a select team of nine tasters. A high sense of high anticipation proceeded the blind tasting of the 2008 vintage (bottled some 6-10 months earlier), with a line up including over 300 Premiere and Grand Cru Pinot Noirs from the Cote d'Or's top Domaines and Negociants.
Labels:
Burgundy
Monday, 26 September 2011
2011 Harvest Report: Cédric Valade of Château La Grande Maye and Château Valade.
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
‘2011 will remain in the memories of winemakers as a tricky vintage. The season started very early with a warm and dry April that sped up the vegetative cycle of the vines. Disbudding tasks overlapped with the 2010 primeurs tastings. We have never seen such a quick start before! It was the beginning of a race that went on until the end of the trellising of the vines!
Thursday, 15 September 2011
HOT OFF THE PRESS
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Beyond Bordeaux: J&B tips growth regions
This morning's article in the Drinks Business by Gabriel Savage featuring Justerini & Brook's buyer, Giles Burke-Gaffney:
This morning's article in the Drinks Business by Gabriel Savage featuring Justerini & Brook's buyer, Giles Burke-Gaffney:
As prices for top Bordeaux climb ever steeper, Justerini & Brooks buyer Giles Burke-Gaffney has predicted a surge in popularity for Barolo, Burgundy and the Southern Rhône.
Labels:
Barolo,
Bordeaux,
Press,
The Drinks Business
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
Domaine Weinbach : Praises sung on jancisrobinson.com
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Following a recent visit to Domaine Weinbach, Richard Hemming, regular contributor to Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages (www.jancisrobinson.com), found much to praise about the wines of Domaine Weinbach. In fact, having visited the 10 most prestigious wineries in Alsace, he appears to have come back enamoured with Weinbach more than any other Domaine. Herewith his comments in full:
Labels:
Alsace,
Domaine Weinbach,
What the Critics Say
Wednesday, 7 September 2011
Barolo 2007 - 27 out of the top 30 Parker Points
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Here at J&B we like to think we buy what we rate and follow those producers we truly believe in. We don't , and never have, slavishly followed Parker points, or those of any other critic for that matter. I think it's what makes our customers come back to us time and again.
But it is worth pointing out the recent dominance our Barolo list has in the top 30 scoring wines in 2007, as scored by Antonio Galloni on Robert Parkers website. And, with the exception of his ratings of Marengo's stunning 07's, Galloni is a critic who's praise we do generally agree with. He is a man who know's Piedmont in great detail.
No fewer than 7 out of the top 10, 15 out of the top 20, and 23 out of the top 30 are wines we list. And more to the point, have listed for some time, most probably before the rise of Mr Galloni on Parker's site.
Of particular note, with a price v points hat on, are the wines from Azelia, Scavino and Clerico.
But it is worth pointing out the recent dominance our Barolo list has in the top 30 scoring wines in 2007, as scored by Antonio Galloni on Robert Parkers website. And, with the exception of his ratings of Marengo's stunning 07's, Galloni is a critic who's praise we do generally agree with. He is a man who know's Piedmont in great detail.
No fewer than 7 out of the top 10, 15 out of the top 20, and 23 out of the top 30 are wines we list. And more to the point, have listed for some time, most probably before the rise of Mr Galloni on Parker's site.
Of particular note, with a price v points hat on, are the wines from Azelia, Scavino and Clerico.
Labels:
Italy En Primeur
Tuesday, 6 September 2011
Burgfest 2008 Vintage
Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman
In a secluded location in Beaune over the late August bank
holiday the most recently bottled vintage of Pinot Noir was put under the
microscope. The UK's top Burgundy buyers plus specialist Burgundy wine writers
and publishers Clive Coates and Neil Beckett made up a select team of nine
tasters.
A high sense of high anticipation proceeded the blind
tasting of the 2008 vintage (bottled some 6-10 months earlier), with a line up
including over 300 Premiere and Grand Cru Pinot Noirs from the Cote d'Or's top
Domaines and negociants .
The wines were tasted in flights village by village over
three days, 1er Crus followed by Grand Crus.
Earliest impressions of the 2008 vintage are one of
consistent freshness and a pure expression of Pinot Noir. Wines defined by a cooler vintage that had
ample acidity, concentrated by cool north winds and bought to perfect ripeness
by warm cloudless days and cool nights.
Monday, 15 August 2011
Spain - Exciting times
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director
I completed my annual 5 day 1000k+ road trip to Spain recently to taste the newly released wines, mostly 2008, with a sneak preview of what delights 2009 and 2010 have to offer, aswell. Apart from leaving me sick to the back teeth of my hire car, the trip made me feel incredibly upbeat about Spain's credentials as a source of high quality wine. The country is still suffering from terrible economic turmoil but its broad group of fine wine producers should be well placed to shift their emphasis from a faltering home market to export. It is incredibly rare for wine-producing countries to be known for producing both top quality and great value wines, usually a place is labelled as one or the other. Spain, however, carries off both to remarkably great effect. This is due to a generation of rigorous growers who are re-discovering their traditions, saving indigenous grape varieties and making wine with passion and attention to detail.
Whilst producers within Rioja continue to raise their qualitative bar to even greater heights, with growers such as the Egurens of Sierra Cantabria focusing their efforts on single vineyards of the low-yielding Tempranillo Peludo clone, Spain can increasingly offer more than just Rioja - be it Garnacha and Carinena from Priorat; Tinta del Toro from Toro; Old vine Verdejo from southern Rueda; Tinto Fino from Ribera del Duero; or top notch Albarino or Godello from Rias Baixas. Additionally there are now an increasing number of re-envigorated wine regions offering great wines that offer as good a "bang for buck" as anywhere in the world, places such as Jumilla, Manchuela, Yecla and Campo de Borja. However for me the most interesting new place that my recent forays unearthed was a Catalan wine region an hour south of Priorat called Terra Alta. A high altitude of 400 metres above sea, proximity to the Mediterranean, wonderful chalk limestone and sand soils (a cross-section of which is pictured above) and some old vines, all make for first class wine. Even better it is still a relative unknown on export markets and in trying to carve itself a global reputation, Terra Alta offers excellent value, too. The only shame is that the region relies on a very small group of quality producers, most of the land still being dominated by small growers selling to the cooperative.
So to the Country's wine-producing merits of quality and value, you can add diversity. Vinously, at least, these are exciting times for Spain. It feels like there is still so much more to come.
Labels:
Spain and Portugal,
Spain En Primeur
Wednesday, 27 July 2011
Barolo 2007 - Summary
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying DirectorI had already tasted a few cuvees of 2007 last year, the quality seemed unbelievably good at the time almost too good, too easy. So I came out here with a degree of suspicion, wondering how the wines had evolved, were they too opulent or had they faded in any way? The answer, resoundingly, is no. This is a special vintage. The wines are so inviting and alluring. So easy to taste. There is plenty of tannin but it is a sweet sumptuous tannin. The wines are as effortless as Barolo can be at this early stage but more encouragingly they show every sign of ageing well. They have more freshness than I expected and very ripe clear fruit flavours. As well as enthralling Nebbiolo lovers, this vintage, I am sure, will bring the region many new friends. That mix of approachability and ageability is what makes this special. When asked, growers themselves struggle to come up with another vintage to compare it with, 07 is unique.
I have aslo relooked at several 2006s out here and I am every bit as confident in them, if not more so, as I was this time last year. Of course they were more rigid and classic to taste upon release, though they are already shaping up well and in time could well prove to be the equal of 2007. For the time being, though, we should revel in the 2007s, they are a delight.
The season started early, summer was sunny and dry but never hot and whilst this aided ripening, the cool nights extended the ripening period. So even after an early start, vintage took place at the usual time - during the first week of October. Growers say that long, gentle seasons like this are the best, certainly 07's ripening conditions have resulted in wines of smooth, shapely tannins without sacrificing any power.
In early September 2011 we will present 2007s from all of the growers mentioned in this blog, our greatest ever offering of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero, it should prove a fitting celebration to the Piedmont and its great wines.
Labels:
Buyer's Blog,
Italy En Primeur
Barolo 2007 - Castiglione, Serralunga, Monforte, Roero and one more La Morra
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying DirectorThis trip is starting to get very expensive for me. I left La Morra not only with an appreciation of a delicious raw spiced beef sausage produced in the town of "Bra" but also with a fairly sizeable personal shopping list of wine. Tuesday's and Wednesday morning's tastings have seen this list swell even further.
I wondered whether the sumptuous textures of the wines i had been enjoying so far were purely a La Morra phenomenon but it is clear this a feature of the vintage accross the region.
Scavino are a benchmark; their 2007s are serious and polished wines, the bric del Fiasc wine is a fitting tribute to this top cru, one of the first single cru bottled up separately back in 1978. It was exciting to go to Vietti for the first time, also in Castiglione, their wines are hugely intense and complex. And the last of the Castiglione trio, Azelia, are now the equal of anyone in the region. Marginally longer fermentations and less new oak have, over the last few vintages, seen them jump to the top division of producers. Apart from a great Dolcetto, the best there is, i also fell for the San Rocco.
Clerico, I am glad to report, is fit and well. Since 05 / 06 vintages gentler extraction has been a feature of the wines, his new range from Dolcetto to Barolo Cru is, in my view, the best and most refined he has ever made.
My visit to this wonderful region came to a happy end on Wednesday morning, a tasting at Azienda Matteo Correggia and a simply glorious Roero Riserva Rocche d'Ampsej 2007 and finally back to La Morra, to Giuliano of Giovanni Corino. Silky bright and totally seductive Barolo Cru 2007s and a memorable old vines 2006 Giachini. Those who like Barolo with a bit of extra grunt will prefer the wines of his brother Renato, those who like finesse in their La Morra Barolos will be totally seduced by those of Giuliano.
Now accross the nowhere lands passed Piacenza and into the beautiful hills of Soave and Valpolicella
Labels:
Azelia,
Clerico,
Giovanni Corino,
Italy En Primeur,
Paolo Scavino
Barolo 2007 - Barbaresco and La Morra
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying DirectorMonday started with a bang. If Roberto Voerzio describes a vintage as "legendary" you sit up and take notice. These were the impressive dense but highly svelte wines I was expecting, and the even better news is there is a full complement of crus made this year.
In Barbaresco, Gaja made some extremely slick, serious 07s, whilst over the road in Neive Giacosa's new Barolo is as pure and elegant as ever, whilst bowing to that sweet generosity of the vintage.
Renato Corino of the gigantic hands (the biggest in the Barolo business) has made a gigantic Rocche. I will taste his brother's wines Giuliano of Giovanni Corino on Wednesday.
Even taking all of these highs into consideration, THE highlight for me so far has been tasting with Marco Marengo. His 2007s were easily the best he has made ( which is saying something) and rival the very best in the vintage. This seems at great odds with some recent ratings he has been given which were, in my view, a mistake. The wines have found an extra level of finesse, they are intense and haunting, high toned but sweet and alluring. Barolo has never come closer to Burgundy. I found them totally beguiling
More on Castiglione, Serralunga and Monforte tomorrow...
Labels:
Elio Altare,
Gaja,
Italy En Primeur,
Marco Marengo,
Roberto Voerzio
Thursday, 21 July 2011
A glowing review for Aristos
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Award winning Master of Wine Peter Richards knows a thing or two about Chile. Extensive travelling (and tasting) through Chile's vineyard regions instilled in him a burning passion for the wines produced there and so it was no surprise that he returned to pen the Andre Simon short-listed book, Wines of Chile. He is the Decanter World Wine Awards Chilean Regional Chair and together with his wife, fellow MW Susie Barrie, was awarded IWSC Wine and Spirits Communicator of the year in 2010. Not content with being a very talented writer and broadcaster, he is also, perhaps most importantly, an exceptional taster. And having tasted most of what Chile has to offer it's exciting to see him sing the praises of a wine we tasted and loved immediately.
Quoting verbatim from the August edition of Decanter Peter wrote:
"One of Chile's newest, most exciting names is the result of an international collaboration between some reputed names. Vosne-Romanee producer Vicomte Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, works with noted Chilean terroir specialist Pedro Parra and maverick winemaker Francois Massoc to make just two Cabernets and a Chardonnay. The first vintages were sourced from the Calyptra vineyard, high in the Andean foothills in Coya in the eastern Cachapoal Valley. The Cabernet is refreshing and easy drinking in the Chilean Context, but it's the elegantly savoury, nutty and grippy Chardonnay, very much in a Burgundian mould, that is the star. Given Liger-Belair's origins you might expect a Pinot Noir to be on the cards. But according to Parra, the team 'haven't found any in Chile good enough. Yet."
Quoting verbatim from the August edition of Decanter Peter wrote:
"One of Chile's newest, most exciting names is the result of an international collaboration between some reputed names. Vosne-Romanee producer Vicomte Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, works with noted Chilean terroir specialist Pedro Parra and maverick winemaker Francois Massoc to make just two Cabernets and a Chardonnay. The first vintages were sourced from the Calyptra vineyard, high in the Andean foothills in Coya in the eastern Cachapoal Valley. The Cabernet is refreshing and easy drinking in the Chilean Context, but it's the elegantly savoury, nutty and grippy Chardonnay, very much in a Burgundian mould, that is the star. Given Liger-Belair's origins you might expect a Pinot Noir to be on the cards. But according to Parra, the team 'haven't found any in Chile good enough. Yet."
Labels:
Argentina and Chile,
Aristos,
What the Critics Say
Thursday, 14 July 2011
Rhone 2010 - Greater than 2009?
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director
I look forward to the Rhone buying trip with particular relish. The place is beautiful, the weather a welcome change from grey London and the diverse array of wines fantastic. Rhone can never be accused of being boring, from the divergent blends of Chateauneuf, the varying styles of the Northern Syrahs, not to mention Condrieu, Marsannes and Roussannes. What's more I know that when I get back home, there will be more than a few things on my wine shopping list that I will actually be able to afford.
This July's aim was to re-taste 2009s and take an extensive look at 2010s. The schedule in front of me was bursting at the seams, 22 growers in 4 days including Clos des Papes,Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe, Chave, Domaine du Coulet, Alain Graillot, Rostaing, Clusel Roch and Stephane Ogier to name a few. I am very much becoming a victim of the Rhone's success, it seems that every year we add a new grower to the portfolio. The trip left me quite exhausted, albeit in a thoroughly satisifed way.
2009s are showing just as well as a year ago if not better, it is a rich vintage north and south, a show stopper, a vintage of opulence and seduction. For me the wines of the year, north or south, were those of Rene Rostaing, though the fabulous Chave 09s (to be released next year) will be snapping at Rostaing's heals.
As for 2010, well all I can say is that, taken as a whole, Rhone 2010 is greater than 2009. In the south, thanks to coulure, it is a very small vintage but the quality is excellent. The wines have the ripeness of 2009, the concentration, but more freshness and balance. Indeed they approach the 2007s in depth and will supercede them for drinkability. I thought Versino/ Bois de Boursan was particularly successful, as was Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe and le Bois Pointu (now made by Domaine Etienne Gonnet)
In the North, 2010 is a truely great year, whether greater than 09 depends on the individual producer. It is a very close call between the two in Cote Rotie particularly, whereas in Hermitage and Cornas I almost unanimously preferred the crisp, more defined and elegant structures of the 2010s. Rene Rostaing again came up trumps with an outstanding range, Francois Villard I think has made his best ever vintage, red and white, whilst the lovable Clusel Rochs have pulled a very special vintage out of the bag. Faurie and Domaine du Colombier (whose freshly ripened apricots were out of this world!) performed brilliantly and one of my very favourite growers Mathieu Barret of Domaine du Coulet, has yet again made stunning Cornas, far better than many Hermitages. For me Cornas is one France's most underrated appellations.
So there we have it, a great vintage and, hopefully, probably, maybe.... reasonable prices. Our full offer of 2010s will be launched in November.
Next stop Spain in a week's time, follow the action on twitter @gilesbg
This July's aim was to re-taste 2009s and take an extensive look at 2010s. The schedule in front of me was bursting at the seams, 22 growers in 4 days including Clos des Papes,Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe, Chave, Domaine du Coulet, Alain Graillot, Rostaing, Clusel Roch and Stephane Ogier to name a few. I am very much becoming a victim of the Rhone's success, it seems that every year we add a new grower to the portfolio. The trip left me quite exhausted, albeit in a thoroughly satisifed way.
2009s are showing just as well as a year ago if not better, it is a rich vintage north and south, a show stopper, a vintage of opulence and seduction. For me the wines of the year, north or south, were those of Rene Rostaing, though the fabulous Chave 09s (to be released next year) will be snapping at Rostaing's heals.
As for 2010, well all I can say is that, taken as a whole, Rhone 2010 is greater than 2009. In the south, thanks to coulure, it is a very small vintage but the quality is excellent. The wines have the ripeness of 2009, the concentration, but more freshness and balance. Indeed they approach the 2007s in depth and will supercede them for drinkability. I thought Versino/ Bois de Boursan was particularly successful, as was Pegau, Vieux Telegraphe and le Bois Pointu (now made by Domaine Etienne Gonnet)
In the North, 2010 is a truely great year, whether greater than 09 depends on the individual producer. It is a very close call between the two in Cote Rotie particularly, whereas in Hermitage and Cornas I almost unanimously preferred the crisp, more defined and elegant structures of the 2010s. Rene Rostaing again came up trumps with an outstanding range, Francois Villard I think has made his best ever vintage, red and white, whilst the lovable Clusel Rochs have pulled a very special vintage out of the bag. Faurie and Domaine du Colombier (whose freshly ripened apricots were out of this world!) performed brilliantly and one of my very favourite growers Mathieu Barret of Domaine du Coulet, has yet again made stunning Cornas, far better than many Hermitages. For me Cornas is one France's most underrated appellations.
So there we have it, a great vintage and, hopefully, probably, maybe.... reasonable prices. Our full offer of 2010s will be launched in November.
Next stop Spain in a week's time, follow the action on twitter @gilesbg
Tuesday, 21 June 2011
Loire 2010 - Unmissable Value
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director
Arriving at Angers train station on Monday 13th to find that even rental car companies in France take off the obligatory "jour ferrier", despite having accepted my reservation, was an inauspicious start to the trip. Well, thankfully it was as bad as my week got, it was smooth roads and 5th gear from then on.
2010 in the Loire, like many of France's wine regions, was not always easy. Poor flowering, a gloomy summer and even some late summer rains tested the mettle of the region's best growers. And this is exactly the point. The days of turning but a glancing eye to all non Sauvignon Loire wines in only the hottest and "easiest" of vintages must be consigned to history. The quality of many 2010 Chenins, Pinots and Cab Francs is excellent. This was obviously helped by the late season drying wind and bright sunshine, together with a very small potential crop owing to coulure, but I feel it is just as much testament to the effort the growers are making in their vines - be it de-budding, de-leafing or overall excellent management of soils and vine canopy.
Chinon and Bourgueil were particular successful appellations, the 2010s from Joguet, Amirault and Domaine de la Butte were outstanding and for their poise and balance I prefer them to 2009. Pinot Noirs from Sancerre chez Pinard look remarkable, it could be their best red vintage yet, great ripeness and intensity without surrendering Pinot delicacy and Loire freshness. They really would not look out of place in a blind tasting of the Cote d'Or's finest.
In Coteaux de Layon it is an exceptional vintage, very concentrated and distinctly zesty. Sweet wines of that quality and price are virtually impossible to find anywhere else. In Vouvray and Montlouis vintage conditions were more challenging, but, again, the startling quality of Jacky Blot's Domaine de la Taille aux Loups wines really show how far the Loire has come in the last 10-15 years. Difficult conditions no longer means difficult wine.
Sancerres and Pouilly Fumes are much more classic than in 2009, no doubt some of the more commercial entities have made lean and aggressive wines but for top growers beautiful, ripe, intense and classically vibrant wines are very much the norm.
Overall its a very impressive but small vintage, with losses being up to 40% on the average. There may be quality in 2010 and a shortage of it, but so far there is no indication of heinous price increases, it should prove the value region of 2010.
2010 in the Loire, like many of France's wine regions, was not always easy. Poor flowering, a gloomy summer and even some late summer rains tested the mettle of the region's best growers. And this is exactly the point. The days of turning but a glancing eye to all non Sauvignon Loire wines in only the hottest and "easiest" of vintages must be consigned to history. The quality of many 2010 Chenins, Pinots and Cab Francs is excellent. This was obviously helped by the late season drying wind and bright sunshine, together with a very small potential crop owing to coulure, but I feel it is just as much testament to the effort the growers are making in their vines - be it de-budding, de-leafing or overall excellent management of soils and vine canopy.
Chinon and Bourgueil were particular successful appellations, the 2010s from Joguet, Amirault and Domaine de la Butte were outstanding and for their poise and balance I prefer them to 2009. Pinot Noirs from Sancerre chez Pinard look remarkable, it could be their best red vintage yet, great ripeness and intensity without surrendering Pinot delicacy and Loire freshness. They really would not look out of place in a blind tasting of the Cote d'Or's finest.
In Coteaux de Layon it is an exceptional vintage, very concentrated and distinctly zesty. Sweet wines of that quality and price are virtually impossible to find anywhere else. In Vouvray and Montlouis vintage conditions were more challenging, but, again, the startling quality of Jacky Blot's Domaine de la Taille aux Loups wines really show how far the Loire has come in the last 10-15 years. Difficult conditions no longer means difficult wine.
Sancerres and Pouilly Fumes are much more classic than in 2009, no doubt some of the more commercial entities have made lean and aggressive wines but for top growers beautiful, ripe, intense and classically vibrant wines are very much the norm.
Overall its a very impressive but small vintage, with losses being up to 40% on the average. There may be quality in 2010 and a shortage of it, but so far there is no indication of heinous price increases, it should prove the value region of 2010.
photo - Valerie Dagueneau of Domaine Serge Dagueneau gets stuck into to some ploughing.
Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Bordeaux 2010 - Domaine de Chevalier, Malescot St Exupery, Fonbel and Monbousquet
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Olivier Bernard's extensive project at Domaine de Chevalier has really come to fruition. After a bold and not to mention expensive re-planting program throughout the `80s and then a decade and a half of patience for the vines to gain maturity, we can really see the benefits. 2005, 2008, 2009 and now 2010 rank amongst the very best wines produced in this sprawling commune. Powerful but graceful, true to their terroir, and just so enjoyable to drink; this has become one of our 'must buy' estates. Olivier's wines offer 'super second' class at relatively affordable prices.
`Tasted three times, the Domaine de Chevalier has great precision on the nose with pure dark blackberry, dark plum, black olive compote and crushed flowers. The palate is just superb, mainly because of the crispness and tension in the tannic structure, framing a very precise, very focused Domaine de Chevalier that should age beautifully. It is almost understated but with great mineralité on the finish and superb persistency. Watch it blossom in bottle. 93-95/100`. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal
Chateau Malescot St Exupery casts an imposing shadow over the village of Margaux.There is something rather rustic and charming about the estate; however, the wines are anything but bucolic. Malescot is back on top form producing muscular, modern, sexy Margaux, which delight the critics (and us). The turn-around has been spectacular at this property; not long ago they were treading water, now this is one of the most sought after estates in the Medoc.
` This estate, which has been on a qualitative crescendo for over ten years, has made a prodigious 2010 that ranks alongside their 2009, 2005 and 2000. A gorgeous fragrance of spring flowers, cedarwood, black and red currants and hints of spice box and subtle oak is followed by a generously endowed, full-bodied, opulent wine with layers of concentration, a restrained yet exuberant personality, superb fruit purity and a long finish. There is plenty of tannin, no doubt elevated alcohol and wonderful freshness as well as delicacy. This beauty should drink well for 25 or more years. 94-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
We can also offer the wonderful Chateau Fonbel. This is Alain Vauthier's little baby and always represents terrific value for money. With the same team as Ausone at the helm it is hardly surprising that wines from this St Emilion property are stylish, pure and very seductive. The 2010 completes our list of best 'Value Buys'. Please follow the link below for the comprehensive list.
To complete our round-up, we have a Gerard Perse wine to offer, Monbousquet. From exceptionally low yields, this is big, modern; a testament to the Perse style of winemaking. It is well received by Robert Parker (91-93) and obviously appeals to the British palate too with 92-94 points from Neal Martin.
NEWSFLASH – We have a handful of cases of yesterday's hot ticket, Leoville Poyferre left at £1075 per case. This exceptional 2nd Growth has a mighty 95-98 points from Robert Parker and is set to join the likes of the 1990 and 2009 in the Poyferre hall of fame. A tremendous wine, so hurry...
` One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years. 95-98/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
`Tasted three times, the Domaine de Chevalier has great precision on the nose with pure dark blackberry, dark plum, black olive compote and crushed flowers. The palate is just superb, mainly because of the crispness and tension in the tannic structure, framing a very precise, very focused Domaine de Chevalier that should age beautifully. It is almost understated but with great mineralité on the finish and superb persistency. Watch it blossom in bottle. 93-95/100`. – Neal Martin, Wine Journal
Chateau Malescot St Exupery casts an imposing shadow over the village of Margaux.There is something rather rustic and charming about the estate; however, the wines are anything but bucolic. Malescot is back on top form producing muscular, modern, sexy Margaux, which delight the critics (and us). The turn-around has been spectacular at this property; not long ago they were treading water, now this is one of the most sought after estates in the Medoc.
` This estate, which has been on a qualitative crescendo for over ten years, has made a prodigious 2010 that ranks alongside their 2009, 2005 and 2000. A gorgeous fragrance of spring flowers, cedarwood, black and red currants and hints of spice box and subtle oak is followed by a generously endowed, full-bodied, opulent wine with layers of concentration, a restrained yet exuberant personality, superb fruit purity and a long finish. There is plenty of tannin, no doubt elevated alcohol and wonderful freshness as well as delicacy. This beauty should drink well for 25 or more years. 94-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
We can also offer the wonderful Chateau Fonbel. This is Alain Vauthier's little baby and always represents terrific value for money. With the same team as Ausone at the helm it is hardly surprising that wines from this St Emilion property are stylish, pure and very seductive. The 2010 completes our list of best 'Value Buys'. Please follow the link below for the comprehensive list.
To complete our round-up, we have a Gerard Perse wine to offer, Monbousquet. From exceptionally low yields, this is big, modern; a testament to the Perse style of winemaking. It is well received by Robert Parker (91-93) and obviously appeals to the British palate too with 92-94 points from Neal Martin.
NEWSFLASH – We have a handful of cases of yesterday's hot ticket, Leoville Poyferre left at £1075 per case. This exceptional 2nd Growth has a mighty 95-98 points from Robert Parker and is set to join the likes of the 1990 and 2009 in the Poyferre hall of fame. A tremendous wine, so hurry...
` One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years. 95-98/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
Labels:
Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur,
Fonbel
Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Kirwan
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Chateau Kirwan's illustrious history can be traced back to the early 18th century, but it wasn't until Sir John Collingwood's daughter married the eponymous Mark Kirwan that the estate inherited its Gaelic name.
In 1855, it was classified as a 3rd growth although its vineyards on the Cantenac plateau can hardly be called top terroir. The estate's fortunes suffered with phylloxera, World Wars and depression, but now under the ownership of Schroder & Schyler, things are turning around. The 2009 was very impressive and the 2010 shows plenty of potential.
In 1855, it was classified as a 3rd growth although its vineyards on the Cantenac plateau can hardly be called top terroir. The estate's fortunes suffered with phylloxera, World Wars and depression, but now under the ownership of Schroder & Schyler, things are turning around. The 2009 was very impressive and the 2010 shows plenty of potential.
Labels:
Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur,
Kirwan
Bordeaux 2010 - Leoville Barton and Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Leoville Barton is a by-word for top quality Claret. Anthony has fashioned many outstanding wines from his 2nd Growth St Julien estate and he always prices his wines fairly. The 2010 is a monumental effort, receiving 96-98 and 97-98 from Neal Martin and James Suckling respectively. This is a splendid 'super second' and we thoroughly endorse it at £845 per case – a great wine!
Also new to our list is the magnificent Smith Haut Lafitte. Daniel and Florence Cathiard have taken this Pessac estate to the next level. The wines here outshine many of the top names from the more fashionable communes and are challenging the likes of Haut Bailly, La Mission and even Haut Brion for supremacy in the Graves. 2010 receives a spectacular 95-97 points from Robert Parker, and it is well deserved, we were blown away by the seductive fruit, silky texture and sheer class here. At £865 per case, it is a little dearer than last year, but the quality is so exceptional, it more than warrants the price...
Also new to our list is the magnificent Smith Haut Lafitte. Daniel and Florence Cathiard have taken this Pessac estate to the next level. The wines here outshine many of the top names from the more fashionable communes and are challenging the likes of Haut Bailly, La Mission and even Haut Brion for supremacy in the Graves. 2010 receives a spectacular 95-97 points from Robert Parker, and it is well deserved, we were blown away by the seductive fruit, silky texture and sheer class here. At £865 per case, it is a little dearer than last year, but the quality is so exceptional, it more than warrants the price...
Bordeaux 2010 - Durfort Vivens and La Lagune
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Another barmy day on the Place. We can't help but feel that ego is getting in the way of business with the velocity of releases, or maybe Chateaux owners don't like us very much... It should be common sense that smaller Chateau can't compete with the big boys when it comes to stealing the limelight. Yesterday was dominated by Pontet Canet and Calon Segur, today has been dominated by the splendid 2nd Growth, Leoville Poyferre, so fromage à pâte dure for all the less glamorous wines. We would echo the sentiments of negociants, merchants and probably the paying public – please stagger the releases, we don't need to do the campaign in a fortnight!
The final releases of the day are Gonzague Lurton's second growth Margaux property, Durfort Vivens and the massively impressive La Lagune. Durfort was one of our picks of the vintage in 2009 and the 2010 is a worthy successor. Bravo Gonzague. It will be the cheapest 2nd growth of the campaign, but at £375/cs, this is something of a repositioning act by Durfort... La Lagune (£465/cs) is typically immense. Modern vintages of this Haut Medoc estate are commended by Bibby P. This effort gets a whopping 93-96 points!
'Is this 2005 deja vu "all over again"? Proprietress Caroline Frey has elevated the quality at La Lagune since acquiring this estate, and the 2010 is another superb effort as well as one of the better values in Bordeaux. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, black currants, licorice and subtle smoke and graphite. While uber-concentrated, full-bodied and pure, it retains both elegance and precision as well as a sensational 45-second finish. The suppleness of the tannins and stunning opulence suggest it will drink beautifully for 25+ years. 93-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
The final releases of the day are Gonzague Lurton's second growth Margaux property, Durfort Vivens and the massively impressive La Lagune. Durfort was one of our picks of the vintage in 2009 and the 2010 is a worthy successor. Bravo Gonzague. It will be the cheapest 2nd growth of the campaign, but at £375/cs, this is something of a repositioning act by Durfort... La Lagune (£465/cs) is typically immense. Modern vintages of this Haut Medoc estate are commended by Bibby P. This effort gets a whopping 93-96 points!
'Is this 2005 deja vu "all over again"? Proprietress Caroline Frey has elevated the quality at La Lagune since acquiring this estate, and the 2010 is another superb effort as well as one of the better values in Bordeaux. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, black currants, licorice and subtle smoke and graphite. While uber-concentrated, full-bodied and pure, it retains both elegance and precision as well as a sensational 45-second finish. The suppleness of the tannins and stunning opulence suggest it will drink beautifully for 25+ years. 93-96/100`. – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194
Labels:
Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur
Bordeaux 2010 - Round-up
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
As France enjoys a non-compulsory 'Pentecost' bank holiday (let's hope the Bordelaise are filled with the spirit of reasonable pricing), it gives us some time to pause and reflect on the madness of last week. After a month of complaining about the trickle of releases, the floodgates were opened. We were deluged with big name Chateaux such as Pontet Canet, Leoville Poyferre and Calon Segur. Amid the chaos, it would be easy to miss the likes of Langoa Barton, Talbot, Malescot St Exupery, Domaine de Chevalier, Cantenac Brown, Durfort Vivens, La Lagune, Giscours, Kirwan, Certan de May, Le Dome and Fonbel, many of which are amongst the best wines ever produced at these estates.
Please find a round-up of the releases from last week, plus a second tranche of Pontet Canet below. Particular mention should got to: Langoa Barton (the best wine made to date at this 3rd growth estate), Malescot St Exupery (a spectacular and exotic Margaux with 94-96 points from RP), another splendid Domaine de Chevalier, our surprise package Balestard La Tonnelle and two big scorers in Cantenac Brown (92-94+ RP) and La Lagune (93-96 RP).
It is also worth pointing out that our 'Top Ten Value Buys` have all been released, and not a single one will set you back more than £160 per case. We believe that these would stack up against anything at a comparable price from any wine producing region in the world. Proof it were needed that Bordeaux still offers value.
Please find a round-up of the releases from last week, plus a second tranche of Pontet Canet below. Particular mention should got to: Langoa Barton (the best wine made to date at this 3rd growth estate), Malescot St Exupery (a spectacular and exotic Margaux with 94-96 points from RP), another splendid Domaine de Chevalier, our surprise package Balestard La Tonnelle and two big scorers in Cantenac Brown (92-94+ RP) and La Lagune (93-96 RP).
It is also worth pointing out that our 'Top Ten Value Buys` have all been released, and not a single one will set you back more than £160 per case. We believe that these would stack up against anything at a comparable price from any wine producing region in the world. Proof it were needed that Bordeaux still offers value.
Labels:
Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur
Thursday, 9 June 2011
Burgundy 2011 - The view from the vines at Domaine Grivot
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
The photos below were taken by Hubert Grivot on the 7th June in balmy 25C weather and blue skies. If you haven't yet heard, things are galloping along at pace down on the Cote d'Or, with many growers reporting a whole months advance in the usual cycle of their vines. Yet, despite the precocious nature of the vintage thus far, vine and berry development is reported to be healthy and harmonious.
The last couple of days have been cooler, no bad thing, with temperatures hovering around 17C. Growers are hoping this might slow things down a little...
Thanks to Mathilde Grivot for sending these photos through and keeping us up to date with life as a winemaker in Vosne Romanee.
The last couple of days have been cooler, no bad thing, with temperatures hovering around 17C. Growers are hoping this might slow things down a little...
Thanks to Mathilde Grivot for sending these photos through and keeping us up to date with life as a winemaker in Vosne Romanee.
Labels:
Burgundy,
Jean Grivot
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