Thursday 30 April 2009

`an excellent and in some cases, a great vintage`, Robert Parker

Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
Well, the long wait is over. Mr Parker has presided over the 2008s and he likes them… a lot…

`There is no question that Pomerol seems to be the epicenter of many extraordinary wines. I would even go so far as to say the 2008 Pomerols eclipse/surpass the quality of the 2005s, 2001s, and 2000s. It is an amazing vintage in Pomerol.` With reference to the Medoc he continues, ` One can’t really taste the acidity as one often does in young Burgundy, but there is a precision, nuanced, fresh character to these very intense wines that is somewhat reminiscent of the way the top wines presented themselves in 1996 and 1986, but the finest 2008s are more dense.`

His scores match the enthusiastic words. Several wines are nudging the 100 point mark. Please find a selection of highly rated wines already available to buy at J&B listed below:

2008 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion - £1325 `Another property that is harvested very late (September 23-October 17), the 2008 La Mission-Haut-Brion is a powerful, backward effort that is not yet fully expressing itself. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc, it reveals a deep blue/purple hue in addition to sumptuous aromas of melted asphalt, graphite, blueberries, and black currant liqueur. Dense, with high but velvety tannins, top-flight purity, and a full-bodied, backward, formidably endowed style, this beauty seems to be set for a long life. It is difficult to compare 2008 with any other recent vintage, but the closest would probably be 1998. A La Mission made for four decades or more of cellaring, it is a top-notch effort that should improve during the elevage in barrel`. 94-96+ points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Chateau Palmer - £1020 `The 2008 Palmer, which tips the scales at 13.5% natural alcohol (among the highest achieved at this property), is a blend of 51% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Petit Verdot. It is a massively rich wine with an inky/purple color, sensational density of fruit, velvety tannins, a glorious bouquet of black fruits, licorice, incense, and subtle barbecue smoke, a superb, full-bodied mouthfeel, and a fabulous texture and length. With several minutes of swirling, an enticing floral note emerges. The wine’s glycerin and sweetness suggest it will be approachable 3-4 years after bottling, yet keep for three decades or more. It appears to be among the finest Palmers made this decade, rivaling both the 2005 and 2000`. 95-97+ points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Chateau L'Evangile - £725 `It was an atypically late harvest at this famed Pomerol estate, beginning on September 29 and ending on October 14. Even more remarkable were the frighteningly low yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare. The final blend was 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, and the natural alcohol hit 13.7%, among the highest of the last one-hundred years. The acidity is surprisingly good given the ripeness of the fruit and the generally high alcohols in the 2008 Bordeaux. The dense purple-colored 2008 l’Evangile exhibits a floral nose of sweet mulberries, black currants, and black cherries, a full-bodied, lush texture, silky tannins, and an exceptionally fine finish. While not that evolved, this precocious Pomerol was tasting unusually well for such a young barrel sample. It should drink well for 15-20 years`. 93-95 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Chateau Providence - £520 `This is the first superstar wine Christian Moueix has produced from this vineyard beautifully situated on the plateau of Pomerol. Made from 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it was harvested in October (as were most top Pomerols), and reveals a powerful, rich, massive style that is atypical for a Moueix offering. It boasts an inky/purple color as well as an extraordinary perfume of black cherries, black currants, blackberries, licorice, and even a hint of truffles. Deep, full-bodied, and powerful with high tannins, huge depth, and a seamless integration of its component parts, this appears to be an utterly profound wine that should age effortlessly for 20-30 years`. 95-97 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182 2008 Chateau La Conseillante - £495 `This estate has long been known for its elegant, complex, racy, supple, delicious wines, but the 2008 is more massive, structured, and concentrated than usual. There is a lot going on in this richer, more tannic effort. No one will be disappointed, but purchasers should not expect a wine that will be drinkable upon release. A dense ruby/purple color as well as plenty of concentration, sweet, but elevated tannins, and a huge finish suggest this estate is moving in the direction of Gazin, Lafleur, and Trotanoy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030`. 92-94 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Vieux Chateau Certan - £475 `The 2008 Vieux Chateau Certan was still going through malolactics when I tasted it, so my score is probably on the low side. Yields were a strikingly low 34 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest was slightly earlier than at most properties, starting on September 28 and ending on October 8. The final blend had not yet been determined, but what I tasted was 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. As one might expect, this wine was among the least evolved and judge-able wines I tasted in late March. Nevertheless, it reveals outstanding potential, and once malo is finished, I would expect the wine to put on more weight and flesh. It reveals a dense purple color, plenty of depth, beautiful sweet, pure blue and red fruits, and notes of camphor as well as incense. The wine’s striking freshness, length, and overall potential are promising. Production is off by 25% as there will be 3,000 rather than the normal 4,000 cases of the 2008.Given the structure, acids, and overall concentration, this wine should evolve for 25-35 years`. 92-94 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Chateau Pichon Lalande - £465 `The 2008 Pichon Lalande’s final blend was 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Only 38% of the crop made it into the grand vin, and the result is a wine that blows away the 2005. Terrific texture and opulence, forward fruit, sweet tannin, and a lush personality are found in this dense purple-colored 2008 along with copious quantities of sweet berries, roasted coffee, underbrush, black currant, and black cherry fruit. Sensationally pure, textured, and full-bodied, this will be a flamboyant, showy offering in its youth, but it is capable of lasting 20-30 years`. 94-96 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Chateau Gazin - £355 `The 2008 is a marvelous effort from this property situated adjacent to Petrus and only a stone’s throw from l’Evangile. An amazing effort, the wine exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color, wonderful concentration, a beautifully sweet perfume of caramels, mocha, jammy black currants, and smoky blackberries, a full-bodied mouthfeel, a layered, skyscraper-like texture, and sweet but elevated tannins. Overall, it displays gorgeous freshness and delineation`. 94-96 – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge - £290 `One of the finest wines made at this estate over the last three decades, Domaine de Chevalier's 2008 (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) achieved 13% natural alcohol. It was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare, which is significantly lower than in most top vintages. The most noticeable thing is that consultant Stephane Derenoncourt has drastically cut back the influence of new oak, or at least its ability to intrude on the aromatics and flavors. This beautifully textured, dense purple-colored 2008 exhibits notes of graphite, spring flowers, and blue as well as red fruits in an elegant, full-bodied, flavorful, layered mouthfeel. The freshness of the vintage, combined with low yields has given this cuvee an atypical density and richness that is largely unprecedented. Production is relatively small for the size of the vineyard (about 8,000 cases). This beauty should drink well for 25+ years`. 92-94 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

2008 Chateau Duhart Milon - £275 `As I have previously written, Duhart Milon has become one of the stars of Pauillac thanks to the meticulous attention to detail as well as the investments made by the Rothschild family. A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, with the Cabernet picked during the week of October 8-15, and the Merlot a week earlier, the 2008 offers up sweet aromas of cassis, licorice, crushed rocks, and forest floor in an expressive, graceful aromatic display. Freshness, superb concentration, high but ripe, sweet tannins, and good acids characterize this dense, concentrated wine. It possesses a stunning upside potential of 25-30 years. Yet, like so many of these 2008s, the ripeness of the tannins along with the density and sweetness of the fruit suggest it will be approachable at an early age`. 93-95 points – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, Issue 182

Wednesday 29 April 2009

Xavier’s wines

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac Xavier Borie has yet again produced two of the best value wines of the vintage. From deep gravel croupes slightly inland from the town of Pauillac, GPL is a classically styled, Cabernet Sauvignon dominated effort. When this wine is good, it makes a mockery of the 1855 classification. 2008 promises to be such a wine. We really can’t endorse these wines enough.

Marvelous Mouton

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Today we have released Chateaux Mouton Rothschild. A truly great wine, and it is flying… The other Mouton wines, Petit Mouton, Clerc Milon and d`Armailhac are also fabulous in 2008. These are all very smart Pauillacs and represent great value for money.

Monday 27 April 2009

Haut-Brion raises the bar

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
We expect Mr Parker to `come out` this week. It will be fascinating to see how he reviews the 2008s. We loved the best wines of the vintage, but there is often a transatlantic split in these more classic vintages. We'll keep you posted as and when we get more news.

We released Haut-Brion this afternoon at £1825, which has been well received. We suspect a little bit of one-upmanship here, but Haut-Brion have made a wonderful wine that more than justifies the price.