Top of the Right Bank and Graves

Who should be topping our chart of Pessac Leognan, Pomerol and St Emilion; well it's Monsieur Durantou of course. Fresh off the back of La Chenade's victory in the hotly contested 'Best Value' category, Denis is back on top of the charts with his legendary Eglise Clinet. On his heals is Francois Mitjavile with his excellent Tertre Roteboeuf, followed by Alexandre Thienpont's hugely impressive Vieux Chateau Certan.

Special mention should go to Florence and Daniel Cathiard's Smith Haut Lafitte and Olivier Bernard's Domaine de Chevalier. These two really caught our eye and should offer terrific value for money.

1 L’Eglise Clinet

2 Tertre Roteboeuf *

3 Vieux Chateau Certan ****

4 La Mission Haut Brion **

5 Smith Haut Lafitte

6 Pensees de Lafleur

7 Evangile

8 Clos Fourtet

9 Domaine de Chevalier *

10 Conseillante

Bordeaux 2012 - Vieux Château Certan Report with Alexandre Thienpont

Bordeaux 2012 - Day 1

Same story – not always the same result

The tale from vignerons is of three distinct seasons: a wet spring with a difficult flowering, a dry and warm summer with the potential of hydric stress, and a wet harvest with the potential for rot. It was certainly a challenge, but one that some have risen to. Our first appointment was with the dynamic Denis Durantou of Eglise Clinet. His range was spectacular (as usual). La Chenade will be one of the best values, Montlandrie continues to push the boundaries of what can be achieved in Castillon, and the Pomerols, Petite Eglise and Eglise Clinet are spectacular, but sadly there is about 25% less Grand Vin in 2012. Our next stop was an appointment with the Guinadeaus. Pensees is a sensational second wine with real grand vin breed – Lafleur itself is less massive and brooding than recent vintages, but is beautifully poised, intellectual,. 

Petrus’ 2012 was the first wine to be produced in the new wine-making facility, built on their plot of Cabernet Franc. As a result the cuvee is 100% Merlot and the wine is astonishing: grand, profound, voluptuous and deep. A hop-skip-and-a-jump to VCC and a tasting with Alexandre Thienpont. His Merlot plots adjoin Petrus and were very successful. Although the Cabernet Francs were more of a challenge, he has used his very best plots to add complexity and freshness to the final cuvee. As we have come to expect, another wonderful wine from this high-flying Pomerol estate.

Next to Alexandre’s cousin, Jacques at Le Pin. The 2012 is exotic and opulent and classic Le Pin. We also had the opportunity to taste Jacque’s new St Emilion, L’If. We believe that the translation is Yew, so an evergreen connection to Jacques’ Pomerol estate. The wine is beautifully precise, with wonderful purity of fruit and great finesse.

We lunched at Cheval Blanc. Considering Yquem has decided not to release a 2012, Pierre Lurton was in a surprisingly jovial mood. Although there won’t be any more of the excellent Tour du Pin as the best 1.4 hectares has been reclassified as Grand Cru Classe ‘A’ and will be incorporated into Cheval Blanc, the latest acquisition, Quinault L’Enclos is beginning to show real promise. Tiny yields mean there won’t be much wine, but it is definitely one to look out for in the future. As for the Petit Cheval and Grand Vin, these are two of the smartest wines we have tasted from this illustrious estate; they are both profound, deeply serious wines that hit all the right notes with us...

Our tastings with Francois Mitjavile of Tertre Roteboeuf andRoc de Cambes are always highlights of any trip, and the 2012s are no exception. Francois was at his humorous and thought provoking best. We will be posting his views in the next few weeks; well worth looking out for... Both wines excelled in 2012 and should be included on any self respecting wine lover’s shopping list - they really are sensational wines.

Other high points of day one included a very smart Fleur de Bouard and a really excellent Angelus, a charming and invariable a good value Fonbel and a slightly controversial Ausone. I was thrilled by the multilayered complexity, but the feeling was not necessarily unanimous. We also learnt of Margaret Thatcher’s death whilst tasting at Evangile. Apologies to Domaine Baron Rothschild as the news rather distracted us from your excellent wine – we will forever remember the place where we heard the news...

In summary, the great terroirs on the plateau of Pomerol have performed well with many good to excellent wines. St Emilion is patchier, but this should not come as a surprise. The early ripening Merlots have performed well producing seductive, powerful wines. Cabernet Francs were more of a challenge, but when harvested at full maturity and used sympathetically, they add complexity, perfume and freshness to the blends. All in all a strong showing from the right bank.

Bordeaux 2009 – More scores (the right bank)

Time for more of our results. We asked our eight strong team to list their top ten wines from the right bank, excluding Lafleur, Le Pin, Ausone and Cheval Blanc. This proved even more chaotic than the left bank with 21 properties receiving votes. The results are in and after a little number crunching and it would seem that the J&B team have a taste for Pomerol... Gold, silver and bronze were taken by Evangile, Vieux Chateau Certan and Conseillante. Evangile edged out VCC by a nose, but interestingly only received three maximums to VCC’s four. The only other wine to take the coveted `ten points` was Denis Duarantou’s Eglise Clinet. The remaining seven spots in the top ten were contested between Tertre Roteboeuf, Angelus, Eglise Clinet and four wines from the Moueix stable: Providence, Certan de May, Hosanna and Belair-Monange.

It is also worth mentioning a few wild cards that emerged from our lists. Montlandrie, a new Castillon estate made by Denis Durantou,Tour de Pin, a St Emilion produced by the Cheval Blanc team and the exceptional Roc de Cambes made by Francois Mitjaville from the humble appellation of Côtes de Bourg.

Evangile - 71
Vieux Chateau Certan - 67
Conseillante - 59
Tertre Roteboeuf - 33
Angelus - 32
Eglise Clinet - 31
Providence - 28
Certan de May - 25
Hosanna - 23
Belair Monange - 19
Larcis Ducasse - 13
Figeac - 8
Chapelle d'Ausone - 7
Pensees de Lafleur - 7
Roc de Cambes - 6
Petit Cheval - 3
Lafleur Petrus - 2
Montlandrie - 2
Clos Fourtet - 2
Tour du Pin - 1
Canon - 1

Bordeaux 2009 – The right bank (Pomerol)

Our first appointment was with the delightful Denis Durantou of Chateau L’Eglise Clinet. A magnificent range of wines picked before the rains in mid September. Crisp, vivid flavours combined with power and intensity. L’Evangile and Blason de L’Evangile were magnificent; silky smooth with power to boot. Then to Le Pin; it’s a hard life... Jacques Thienpont welcomed us to his temporary new cellar with his usual good cheer; the wine was at its ethereal best. From the Richebourg of Pomerol we travelled (some of us in a rather roundabout way) to the La Tache of Pomerol; Chateau Lafleur. The Cabernet Franc here is exceptional; the Grand vin is exquisitely fine, a wine of great class.

Next we tasted at the offices of J P Moueix. The charming Edouard Moueix kindly gave us an enlightening video blog, which will be posted later. Belair Monange is exceptional, Fleur Petrus, Hosanna and Trotannoy are all lovely, but it was La Providence that impressed most from the selection of Pomerol – a massively dense, complex wine with outstanding ageing potential.

You might be thinking that Pomerol is consistently brilliant, well it is at the top level, however the Pomerol UGC was a bit of a mixed bag. Conseillante was spectacular, Gazin was big and impressive, Clinet was even bigger and more impressive, but won’t be for everyone... La Cabanne and La Pointe demonstrated that there are some tough, rustic offerings from the commune, so it hasn’t been completely plain sailing.

We finished Pomerol with a trip to Alexandre Thienpont’s Vieux Chateau Certan. This is always a highlight of any Bordeaux trip. A stunning wine with an unusually high percentage of Merlot (84%); Alexandre believes that 2009 is a reference year for this varietal.

The Southwold Tasting - Day 2 PM

Having tasted the best the left bank had to offer before lunch, it was the turn of the most celebrated names from Pomerol and St Emilion in the afternoon. The top eight wines all excelled. By a short head Ch Angelus (19/20) was my highest marked wine; it was not included in the earlier St Emilion flights, so this was its first outing. The ripe cabernet franc aromas seduced the taster with succulent yet aromatic wild fruits, silky texture and beautifully defined tannins. Ch Petrus had darker rich fruit and sweet oak aromas, enormous tannic structure, and great promise. Le Pin showed luscious, polished sweetness and the beautiful gravelly minerality contrasted the classy dark fruits and fabulous length of flavours. The terroir of Ausone really comes through in this 2006; exquisite harmony, cool, classy, silky textured, it possesses tremendous potential. Both L'Eglise Clinet and Vieux Chateaux Certan both scored 18/20 only half a mark behind the runners up, more perhaps because of their density and vast tannic structure, however, there is delicious underlying fruit.

Two flights of Margaux followed and were of a consistently high standard - all without fail having ripeness, which was not the always the case with the 2005s. Ch Palmer, which performed so well amongst the 1st growths was less expressive in the appellation flight; tight, firm, and brooding. Pavillon Rouge showed its pedigree; intense and all on finesse. Giscours; explosive ripe fruits and broad shoulders. Kirwan; big structure and plenty of substance. There were also impressive ‘06s from Malescot St Exupery, Lascombes and Rauzan Segla.

The Southwold Tasting – Day 1

This year was the turn of the 2006 vintage. As usual samples were sourced direct from the Chateaux and tasted blind in commune sequence.

The general impression is that there are some serious wines from both left and right banks. Comparing prices with other vintages, in particular 2005, makes these somewhat forgotten 2006s look really interesting buys. Selection, however, is vitally important in a vintage that sorts the men from the boys.

First up was a flight of Medocs and Listrac/Moulis, including classed growths. The outstanding wine was Chateau Cantemerle, showing ripeness, depth of fruit and fine Bordeaux structure. Chateau Chasse Spleen and Tour Carnet are also worth seeking out for their balance and easy drinking style. Disappointments included Chateau La Lagune.

Several flights of St Emilions followed. The quality from this Appellation was as mixed as the multiple terroirs found in this commune. The most common faults being black coloured, over extracted wines with dry, hard, tannic structures. There were however a few exceptions that showed balance, natural ripe sweet fruit and fine tannins: Joanne Becot, Franc Mayne, L'Hermitage and amongst the premier Crus Classe: Beausejour Duffau, Canon La Gaffeliere, Chapelle d'Ausone and Pavie Macquin. The grand St Emilions were tasted with the elite Pomerols in a majestic right-bank shoot out on day two.

Next came two flights of Pomerol. Quality here is top notch and the wines are consistently ripe, deep of fruit and possess sweet tannic structures. The Moueix properties were uniformly delicious; Chateau La Fleur Petrus, Hosanna and Trotanoy were firing on all cylinders. However, Vieux Chateau Certan won by a short head; backward, brooding, with a wonderfully complex, dark, sweet fruit core. Evangile may well be the sleeper of the appellation, it appeared a touch closed but it reveals hints of greatness – purity, finesse and intensity.

http://www.justerinis.com/Cantemerle/Chateau_Cantemerle_5eme_Cru_Classe_Haut_Medoc_2006/7644/7334/WineDetails.aspx