Bordeaux 2009 – Margaux’s big boys...

The inclement weather has certainly made tasting more of a challenge today. Fortunately by the time we arrived for our appointment at Chateaux Margaux, the clouds had cleared and there was bright sunshine – now that’s what we call a micro-climate...

Corinne Mentzelopoulos and Paul Pontalier are clearly delighted with their 2009s. Paul said that the Pavillon Rouge is `clearly the greatest Pavillon ever`; quite a statement, but the evidence was in the glass. In fact, there was no sales pitch at all, such is the confidence at Margaux, `the wines speak for themselves` . Pavillon Rouge was exceptional. Margaux itself is quite simply ethereal. A magnificent wine which exudes grace, possesses extraordinary finesse yet is quite simply one of the most powerful, concentrated Margauxs ever. It would be remiss not to mention the Pavillon Blanc. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc cuvee was a remarkable feat in 2009. Potential alcohols were off the charts, however with great skill, Margaux have produced a vivid, refreshing, utterly moreish Pavillon Blanc with near normal alcohols.

Palmer is another of those red hot estates at the moment. Sadly their vineyards were hit by hail in May 2009, so yields are a meagre 34hl/ha. However, the crop that they harvested between the 23rd of September to the 14th of October was of exceptional quality. The Alter Ego is velvety smooth; a wine of great polish, whilst the Grand vin is opulence personified, a truly great Palmer!

Do watch out for more interviews and news in the coming hours and days. Tomorrow we will be on the right bank tasting St Emilion and Pomerol.

The Southwold Tasting - Day 2 PM

Having tasted the best the left bank had to offer before lunch, it was the turn of the most celebrated names from Pomerol and St Emilion in the afternoon. The top eight wines all excelled. By a short head Ch Angelus (19/20) was my highest marked wine; it was not included in the earlier St Emilion flights, so this was its first outing. The ripe cabernet franc aromas seduced the taster with succulent yet aromatic wild fruits, silky texture and beautifully defined tannins. Ch Petrus had darker rich fruit and sweet oak aromas, enormous tannic structure, and great promise. Le Pin showed luscious, polished sweetness and the beautiful gravelly minerality contrasted the classy dark fruits and fabulous length of flavours. The terroir of Ausone really comes through in this 2006; exquisite harmony, cool, classy, silky textured, it possesses tremendous potential. Both L'Eglise Clinet and Vieux Chateaux Certan both scored 18/20 only half a mark behind the runners up, more perhaps because of their density and vast tannic structure, however, there is delicious underlying fruit.

Two flights of Margaux followed and were of a consistently high standard - all without fail having ripeness, which was not the always the case with the 2005s. Ch Palmer, which performed so well amongst the 1st growths was less expressive in the appellation flight; tight, firm, and brooding. Pavillon Rouge showed its pedigree; intense and all on finesse. Giscours; explosive ripe fruits and broad shoulders. Kirwan; big structure and plenty of substance. There were also impressive ‘06s from Malescot St Exupery, Lascombes and Rauzan Segla.