Friday 20 May 2011

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Rieussec

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Rieussec has enjoyed a great resurgence over the past decade. With the financial backing and technical know-how of Domaines Barons Rothschild behind them, the estate has flourished into one of the top names in the appellation. Situated on one of the highest points in Sauternes, close to the hallowed vineyards of Chateau Yquem, Rieussec has produced a string of excellent vintages under the stewardship of Charles Chevalier. The style has certainly improved since the Lafite team took over. We have noticed that the wines possess more intensity and finesse and have slimmed down somewhat, although they certainly haven't lost any of their concentration and sweetness. The 2010 is another wonderful example and is sure to delight those who admire great sweet wines.
If you're only going to buy one Sauternes this campaign - make sure it's Chateau Rieussec. If you would like to order a case, please register your interest by calling 00 44 (0)20 7484 6400 or emailing justorders@justerinis.com

Wednesday 18 May 2011

Bordeaux 2010 - Beychevelle and Cantemerle

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Today has proved to be the most exciting morning of the campaign so far. Chateau Beychevelle, one of the most sought after brands in China, and also a firm favourite in the UK has released at £675 per case. This is quite an increase on the opening 2009 price, but the 2009 is now trading at over £700 per case and will continue to head north, so it looks like a shrewd buy. Hopefully, this won't be seen as a green light to other Chateaux to put their prices up too – Beychevelle is a bit of a special case...
Soon after Beychevelle came Cantemerle. This elegant 5eme Cru Classé has been producing exceptional wines for the last decade. The 2009 was sumptuous, seductive stuff – the 2010 is equally alluring; a wine of great class and finesse. We were really impressed by the purity, concentration and the gentle tannic structure here – it is thoroughly deserving of its 91-93 points from Robert Parker.
'A quintessentially elegant style of Bordeaux, the opaque ruby/purple-tinged 2010 Cantemerle possesses elegant floral notes intermixed with hints of blueberries, raspberries, sweet red cherries and currants. Medium-bodied with impressive purity, concentration and texture, it is not a heavyweight, but rather a well-proportioned, stylish red that should drink nicely for 15-20 years`. Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194

Bordeaux 2010 - The 'best value' buys of 2010

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Have you ever wondered what the J&B team buy from primeur campaigns? It's not Le Pin and Ausone as you may expect, we are a pretty tough team to please – we're some of the most demanding customers we have. We expect exceptional quality and we don't want to pay through the roof for it. There are two wines that always meet the criteria. Paul and Cedric Valade's Chateau Valade from St Emilion and Luc Thienpont's Villa des Quatre Soeurs from Margaux.
Let's tackle Luc's Margaux first. This is produced from 60-80 year old vines situated between the villages of Soussans and Tayac. The plot itself is a minute 1.5Ha based on deep Garonne gravels. Luc's oenologist is none other than Jacques Boissenot, consultant to all of the First Growths, and aging takes place in French Oak barrels for 18-20 months. As you can see, Luc takes this project very seriously, and all the hard work shows. We all fell head over heels for this little beauty.
Over on the other side of the river, Paul and Cedric Valade, the eponymous owners of our 'best value' wine of the vintage, are clearly delighted with their acquisition. This is only the fourth vintage, but it looks set to be a real hit. The 2009 was incredible, but sadly hail accounted for about half of the crop. 2010, despite small berries and uneven flowering has produced a healthier yield. Great news for those demanding, price conscious Claret drinkers (like the staff here...). Hurry to buy a case before the Chairman buys it all.

Tuesday 17 May 2011

Bordeaux 2010 - Ormes de Pez and Puygueraud

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer

This afternoon sees the release of Jean-Michel Cazes' St Estephe property Ormes de Pez. We were amazed by the improvements achieved in 2009 and we are pleased to report that the 2010 continues the fine form. Some have deemed it a 'baby Lynch', such is the quality and the unmistakable Lynch style. In truth, this is no baby, this is a large scale, impressive St Estephe.

The vineyards are situated in two plots, one north and one south of St Estephe town. Both are based on gravel and sand and are planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Lynch Bages' wine making team, led by Daniel Llose are making qualitative leaps here. We firmly believe that this Cru Bourgeois will be one of the outstanding values from the 2010 campaign.

Also new to the latest releases list is Château Puygueraud. This Thienpont estate in the Côtes de Francs has made a sensational 2010 and could be an estate to watch in the future. A Merlot dominated blend with a shot of Malbec, this exhibits a plush core of soft ripe fruit and complex notes of sweet earth and forest floor. All the critics have given the thumbs up, with James Suckling awarding a staggering 92-93 points. A lot of bang for the buck!

Bordeaux 2010 - Chateau Gazin

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer

UGC Pomerol is usually something of a roller-coaster; some good, some bad and some slightly scary. The elite Pomerols produced by the Thienponts, Moueixs, Guinaudeaus, Rothschilds and Monsieur Durantou do not show, but there are still several exalted names such as Clinet, Conseillante and Gazin amongst the exhibitors. In what is probably the smallest Union tasting, there is a diverse array of styles and expressions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, from the sandy soils near Libourne to the clay and gravel terroirs of the Plateau.

Chateau Gazin is situated on the most westerly corner of the plateau next to the vineyards of Petrus and Evangile. Recent vintages have been impressive. The style has been big, powerful and tannic, so in this vintage of record concentration, record alcohols and record tannins, we braced ourselves to taste... What we found was one of the most graceful and elegant wines from the right bank. Extractions appear to be lighter and whilst this is still dense, with immense fruit content, it is also very detailed and framed with sumptuous tannins. Along with La Conseillante, one of the peeks.

We have also seen the release of AXAs Sauternes property, Chateau Suduiraut. We sampled this at Pichon Baron and at the Sauternes UGC and it was one of the top performing sweeties that we tasted. At almost £100 less than the 2009 and with 94-96 points from Neal Martin, this should appeal to those with a penchant for stickies.

Monday 16 May 2011

Bordeaux 2010 - Video: Jean-Guillaume Prats, Cos d'Estournel

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Bordeaux 2010 - Jean-Guillaume Prats, Director of Cos d'Estournel on what makes his 2010 so compelling and the differences between it and his majestic 2009.


The wines of François Mitjavile

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
François Mitjavile is one of the most philosophical characters in Bordeaux and is usually one of the most verbose too, so we were astonished when he retorted to our 'un mot' question with consummate ease... If you haven't already seen it, there is a link to 'un mot' below.

Arriving at his tranquil estate in the commune of St.Laurent-des-Combes on a beautiful, hot, spring evening in April, the J&B team descended into the pitch black vaults to taste. It was only when we were groping around for a banister that we realised sun glasses were no longer necessary. François' cellar is like being teleported to the Cote d'Or. There's nothing futuristic or glitzy, just cold stone walls and a gutter to spit in (reluctantly). It is always one of our favourite tastings as the wines are as colourful as the man himself. Roc de Cambes 2010 is the finest effort to date in our opinion. It is decadent, opulent, hedonistic, sumptuous, yet possesses classical freshness, velvety tannins and impeccable balance.

The Tertre is something of an orgy of flavours in a glass. To use a Parkerism (a man not too popular in this particular corner of St Emilion...), this is a `prodigious` effort. An utterly intoxicating, exotic, flamboyant Tertre Roteboeuf, but as with the sister property, one is not overwhelmed; balance is the key. Some merchants are linking François' wines on a 2:1 basis (2 Roc with 1 Tertre). We don't think that this is necessary as the Roc de Cambes sells itself. You can buy a case of Tertre Roteboeuf on its own, but you'd be mad to miss out on the Roc de Cambes!

On another calm day on the Place, we have only seen two other releases of note. Olivier Casteja's wonderful Doisy Vedrines; always one of the best value Barsacs and Lafaurie Peyraguey, a 1er Cru Classé Sauternes. The 2010 sweeties will almost certainly be overlooked as it is the reds that will capture all the headlines, however, there are some really attractive dessert wines and at £245 per case, you can't go wrong with the Doisy Vedrines.