"Outstanding" wines from 2008 - The Allen Meadows verdict

Allen Meadows, aka the `Burghound` is celebrating 10 years of his online publication devoted to all things pinot, particularly, as the title suggests, Burgundy. Amongst the furore of the 2009s, it would have been easy to miss Monsieur Meadows' reassessment of the 2008s. He doesn't have the temerity to suggest that they usurp their more precocious siblings, but as we've said all along, there are some excellent 2008s out there that may well prove more appealing to Burgundy connoisseurs than said `09s.

` The best '08s are fresh, intense, bright, vibrant and very terroir driven - in short it's a classic Burgundian vintage. And as I noted in my vintage analysis last year, it is on the whole more interesting than either 2007 or 2006. And in a few cases, the wines are truly brilliant so don't overlook them`.

Much like Bordeaux, 2008 is something of a miraculous vintage in the Cote d'Or. Initially all interest focussed on the exceptional Chablis and white wines from the Cote de Beaune, however, tastings defy the meteorologists' findings. 2008 was another sad summer in Burgundy. September once again proved pivotal to the success of the vintage. As in 2002, a cool North wind blew and brought dry sunny conditions. This combination concentrated the grapes and averted the risk of rot. As is customary with this region, it was not a simple case of thanking Mother Nature, there was much work required if vignerons were to produce great wines. Canopy management was key to allowing aeration and exposure to light, whilst de-selection played a vital role for quality focussed domaines.

2008 is not a uniform vintage; consistent Burgundy vintages are about as rare as hen's teeth. This is a good old fashioned, labour intensive vintage, where the good and the great shine and the others are best forgotten about. We have selected a few of our favourites that have achieved the coveted `outstanding` rating (90-94 points, ` worth a special effort to purchase and cellar and will provide memorable drinking experiences` - AM). We agree, the charm, focus and poise of these wines, combined with the noble flavours and exquisite balance make these worthy additions to the cellar.

For those more au fait with the American critics who cover Bordeaux, it is worth pointing out that Mr Meadows is notoriously mean with his scores. Only a very select group of wines ever breach the 95 point mark: La Romanee, La Tache, Romanee Conti and the top wines from Leroy, Rousseau and de Vogue occasionally manage this feat...

Domaine Clos de Tart

How time flies. It is now twenty years since Justerini & Brooks first became involved in supplying and developing the Singaporean fine wine market, and over those years it has become increasingly filled with very serious connoisseurs and some genuinely world-class cellars. Though we meet with our customers in restaurants and private houses all over the city, the private dining room within the Jiang-Nan Chun Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel has been J&B's prime venue of choice for entertaining throughout this whole time. There have been many spectacular dinners held here over the years, and a few days ago we added another. Sylvain Pitiot, from the Burgundy Domaine Clos de Tart, flew out to join us for two dinners focused on the vintages made under his stewardship of this Grand Cru monopole estate. It is no longer a secret that since his debut in 1996 this ancient estate has been producing its finest flight of vintages in decades, and the dinners more than proved that point.

The 1996 was drinking beautifully , with mature wild plum and cherry flavours and silky tannins giving the wine a wonderful complex finish.

The 1999 was still very youthful and firm , but packed with ripe, luxurious and explosive fruits.

The 2001 had a beautiful pinot noir definition; fresh, seductive aromas and a perfect balance of fruit and minerals. A real star.

The 2002 was still a baby. Tight, concentrated, intense and pure. It is waiting to show its real colours.

The 2003 was big textured, rich and sweet, and seduced with damsons and black cherry, yet had that Pinot Noir structure to counter the wonderful bold ripeness.

The 2005 was glorious; that simple. Full of rich, ripe, dark fruits, yet balanced by a powerful minerality. A truly complete and grand Clos de Tart.

2006 is a vintage Sylvain rates particularly highly. Youthful yet harmonious and refined; a terroir-dominated vintage. Subtle , complex berry fruits, fine tannins and a haunting sweet yet mineral finish.

2007 is lovely, seductive, ripe Pinot. Fleshy and sweet black cherry and sloe fruits follow through. A real charmer.

The 2008 was cool, refined and with a purity of fruit that would be hard to match outside the best Grand Crus. Quite simply it is a great wine and even in its youth reflecting the best of a grand terroir.

What was so special about this flight was that without exception each wine was true to the conditions experienced during the growing season and harvest, and to its unique Grand Cru terroir. What is evidently clear to us is the talent of Sylvain Pitiot in both the vineyard and cellar in guiding Domaine Clos de Tart through a new golden age.

On the Road to Chablis

As I leave the Cote d'Or the clouds part and out comes the sun. Bright blue skies see me all the way up the autoroute de soleil to junction 21, Nitry. I head, with great anticipation, into the rolling hills of Chablis' big country and its long straight roads, a spoiling programme that includes Fevre, Brocard, Moreau Naudet, Vincent Dauvissat and Laurent Tribut lying before me.

I taste the 2008s which are all in bottle, even Dauvissat's Clos at long last! Well, they are as great as they were last November, perhaps even more thrilling. They have an electric acidity, a lush ripeness, great mineral Chablis character and huge power without ever comprising finesse or balance. Any 08 from a reputable grower should be snapped up.

The 2009s will I am sure be more controversial. They are very powerful wines but just about the most easy and enjoyable to taste before bottling than any other recent vintage. No doubt their low acidities will be talked about by some, but they are intense and show very fresh, clear fruit flavours, surely owing to that kimmeridgean clay minerality, and for many the alcohols aren't too high either, between 12-13 degrees natural. They, of course, have very smooth, friendly textures but show some structure, too, it will be interesting to seem them after a summer's elevage but for now they look very seductive.

The Burghound sniffs out the best of 2008 Burgundy

For those in the know, Allen Meadows has become one of the most trusted and respected authorities on all things Pinot. He has been tasting from barrel in the Cote d’Or since 1978 (almost as long as our Chairman...). His publication, Burghound.com has become a bible for Burgundy enthusiasts throughout the world, offering straight talking, honest reporting and tasting notes. So, what does he make of the 2008s?

`At their best, the ‘08s Côte de Nuits reds are excellent wines with vibrant acidities that speak clearly and eloquently of their underlying terroirs. They are refreshing, energetic, balanced, fresh, intense, pure and racy middle weight wines that generally carry low alcoholic levels and display ample amounts of those ineffable qualities of tension and presence. In short, they’re classic burgundies of delicacy, finesse and grace. Moreover, they should prove to be worthy cellar candidates for aging over the medium-term`.

He does recommend caution too. He actually thinks that 2008 is less consistent than 2007, but that the best from 2008 far surpass anything 2007 can offer. As for the `Sweet Spot` and `Don’t Miss` selections; please find a list below:

`Sweet Spot`

2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes” 1er Barthod-Noëllat (90-92)
2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Cras” 1er Barthod-Noëllat (91-93)
2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Fuées” 1er Barthod-Noëllat (91-93)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Cazetiers” 1er Clair, Bruno (90-92)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos St. Jacques” 1er Clair, Bruno (91-93)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er Drouhin-Laroze (89-92)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Petite Chapelle” 1er Clair, Bruno (89-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Boudots” 1er Grivot, Jean (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles” 1er Chevillon, Robert (91-94)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Chaignots” 1er Chevillon, Robert (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cras” 1er Liger-Belair (91-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er Robert Chevillon (92-94)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er Gouges, Henri (91-94)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Murgers” 1er Cathiard, Sylvain (90-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Perrières” 1er Chevillon, Robert (91-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Pruliers” 1er Chevillon, Robert (91-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Pruliers” 1er Gouges, Henri (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Aux Thorey” 1er Cathiard, Sylvain (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains” 1er Robert Chevillon (92-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains” 1er Gouges, Henri (91-93)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Beaux-Monts” 1er Grivot, Jean (90-92)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Beaux-Monts” 1er Tremblay, Cécile (89-92)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Brûlées” 1er Grivot, Jean (91-93)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts” 1er Cathiard, Sylvain (91-94)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Suchots” 1er Grivot, Jean (91-93)

`Don’t Miss`

2008 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Clair, Bruno (92-94)
2008 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Drouhin-Laroze (91-94)
2008 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Clair, Bruno (92-94)
2008 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Drouhin-Laroze (92-94)
2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru Clos de Tart (91-94)
2008 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Eugénie (92-95)
2008 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Grivot, Jean (92-94)
2008 Echézeaux Grand Cru Eugénie (91-94)
2008 Echézeaux Grand Cru Grivot, Jean (92-94)
2008 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru Eugénie (92-94)
2008 Musigny Grand Cru Drouhin-Laroze (92-95)
2008 Richebourg Grand Cru Grivot, Jean (93-95)
2008 Richebourg Grand Cru Méo-Camuzet (93-96)
2008 La Romanée Comte Liger-Belair (93-96)
2008 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Cathiard, Sylvain (92-95)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Brûlées” 1er Méo-Camuzet (92-94)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Cros Parantoux” 1er Méo-Camuzet (92-95)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Reignots” 1er Comte Liger-Belair (91-94)

2008s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

At the beginning of this week we welcomed into our cellars Louis-Michel Vicomte Liger-Belair (pictured with his father) to present us with his fledgling 2008s. The tasting was a huge success and demonstrated just how great this Domaine has become. As Louis-Michel himself pointed out, it can take 5-6 years for work in the vineyard, particularly the soils, to have their full effect on the resultant wines. Over and above vintage style and variation, there is without question an additional qualtitative progression here right accross the range. I found the 2008s very much in keeping with Louis-Michel's pure, softly extracted yet very serious style - they were gentle but powerful, silky smooth yet racy, all in all they were impeccably balanced. This revering taster, at least, would place these in THE top echelon of Red Burgundy. Our customers seemed to agree, 6 of the 9 wines have already sold out!

Roy Richards on Burgundy 2008

Roy Richards, one half of importers Richards Walford, gives us a brief but illuminating interview about the 2008 vintage; the weather conditions, the resulting wines, and those vintages he thinks it compares to.

Burgundy 2008 Part Deux - Days 4 & 5

Visits with Roumier and Mugnier reinforced the findings of our earlier tastings with Drouhin, Meo-Camuzet and Ghislaine Barthod, where we discovered many very fine Chambolles. Clos de Marechale deserves a mention, Mugnier's great vineyard work here(pictured) seems to get increasingly evident each year, the 2008 rivals Nuit's best. Musigny seems to be a Grand Cru that has excelled in 2008, examples from Roumier and Mugnier were glorious and that of Leroy outshone, on the day, their other vineyards Richebourg and Chambertin. Vosne, too, seems to have had its fair share of highs in 2008, Cathiard's wines were fabulous. His and Leroy's stunning Romanee St Vivants have mirrored the success of Frank Follin's earlier in the week. At Clos de Tart we had our usual, fascinating, tasting of the four components of the Clos de Tart blend. Embryonic they may have been, but the potential to be one of the vintage's most powerful wines is certainly there. Cecile Tremblay followed, a young grower who is already starting to excel. 2008 is clearly an excellent vintage for her and a step up from her 2007s. Chambolle Feusselottes and Chapelle really impressed but most surprising of all was, perhaps, the high quality of the two villages wines Nuits and Vosne. The final tasting of our two week long Burgundian visits was with Domaine d'Eugenie, and what a way to finish. Even more than Tremblay, this is a Domaine that has made enormous strides between the 2007 and 2008 vintages. With their brand new cuverie in place and the winemaking team finding their feet, they have managed to produce superb results, each wine/ terroir is very clearly defined and the expression of Pinot Noir bittersweetness comes through very strongly.

So the trip draws to a close. It has not been too tiring a journey, which says alot for the vintage. At their best the red wines are fresh and light in tannic structure rather like 2004 in their light tannic structure but much more elegant and with a totally different, considerably riper, fruit profile. The wines are not massive like 2006 or 2005, but they are so well balanced that they should age gracefully. Burgundy lovers will adore them for their purity and Pinot juiciness. The whites are flamboyant, exotic yet racy and will give great pleasure straightaway, Chablis, in particular, is a great success. It is a small vintage for red and white wine in terms of quantity, though there are one or two exceptions many Pinot producers made even less 2008 than the already rather small 2007 vintage.

2008 Burgundy Part Deux - Day 3

The french love affair with bank holidays means that it is always a battle to make appointments in November, particularly on Armistice day, fortunately however there was minimal interruption today - our winegrowers are made of sterner stuff, their strong work ethic seems to apply even to the beloved "jours ferriers." As a result we get to swan around the finest Crus of Chambolle Morey and Gevrey with a little interlude to Jean Marc Millot in Nuits St Georges. Each terroir /wine is so clearly defined and identifiable in 2008, this was more evident in the cellars of the charming Ghislaine Barthod than anywhere else. The villages was enormously impressive, as for the crus normally the Fuees is the outsanding example for me and it is extremely good but it is a close run thing with Charmes this year, the warm microclimate of the lower Charmes must have been well suited to the cooler conditions of 2008. Louis Remy's wines were excellent too, my strict jesuit education normally means I have a preference for the austere but profound Latricieres,though I have to admit this year to being seduced by Clos de la Roche, another warm micro climate thas has performed particularly well in 2008. As for Bruno Clair at the end of the day, well his wines left us pretty speechless. Clos St Jacques tastes like a Grand Cru, Clos de Beze is totally seductive and Bonnes Mares is arguably the best yet has Bruno finds his feet in this vineyard since it came back into the fold in 2006, it has been very pretty these last few vintages but the 2008 has more strength and depth than its predecessors whilst retaining the purity and definition of the vintage. Bravo Bruno!

2008 Burgundy Part Deux - Day 2

The Remi Rollin 2008s performed admirably well at 8.30am in the morning, they have the mineral streak that are so beloved of Pernand's wines with a hint more generosity and exoticism than the 2007s. The Sous Fretille is one of Burgundy's best kept white secrets and the 08 version will not disappoint its loyal followers. On to Burgundy's holy grail, Vosne Romanee. It may have been a bleary-eyed start to the day, but one can hardly complain with the rest of the day's schedule that includes Lamarche, Comte Liger-Belair, Etienne Grivot and Meo Camuzet. In 2008 Lamarche have gone up another gear from their very promising 2007s, Nicole is clearly making great strides with the winemaking since taking over fully from her father in 2007. Richebourg from Grivot was a stand out wine, great energy and finesse for this vineyard which can so often be explosive but rather cumbersome in its youth, however the piece de resistance for me, unsurprisingly I guess, was La Romanee from Comte Liger Belair. Tasting in the cellars under the Chateau de Vosne Romanee is always a treat but this was something else. The 2008 La Romanee is more expressive and open than any other I can remember at this stage whilst retaining its classic subtley and guile. Fine, floral, juicy and sophisiticated with a breathakingly long finish. 08 has really started shaping up nicely, it says alot for the vintage that there have been little or no disappointments but many high points. As with any vintage troubled by awkward weather during the growing season this won't be a vintage to buy any old where, but importantly for Burgundy lovers the growers who usually make good wine have done sowith some style this year.

2008 Burgundy Part Deux - Day 1

The balmy 19 degrees of two weeks ago seem like a long time ago. Burgundy is firmly back in line with the seasons, its cold, wet and windy. The weather does not stop this place being beautiful, though, its still a real treat to be here. Before decamping to the Cotes de Nuits we finish off the remaining Cotes de Beaune cellars that we did not manage to visit last time round. The day started with Follin and some thoroughly attractive 2008s, Romanee St Vivant was a real stand out and promises much for our visit to Vosne Romanee tomorrow. His even more seductive 07s followed, topped off by an excellent 2006 Chapitre (a vintage Frank considers to be up there with his best,surpassing 2005.)Frank has really proved himself an enormously consistent and talented winemaker over the last 5-10 years. We then briefly switched Cotes to Flagey-Echezeaux and Emmanuel Rouget, who for once had remembered his appointment and was at home rather than in a field somewhere shooting game as is so often his want. Some 2008 wines of great potential here, however the Cros Parantoux had barely started malo and was difficult to see into. The 2007s eclipsed the 08s, though. It reminded me what a great success Emannuel's wines were in 07, definitely up there among the vintage's creme de la creme. Some good wines have been made chez the short-clad Eric de Suremain, Rully Preaux was a beauty and the Clou de Chene would not look out of place in a flight of top Volnays, and ditto some excellent whites at Martelet de Cherisey, but Vincent Dancer (pictured) was the showpiece of the day for both Hew and I, even at villages level the wines have a depth, intensity and above all finesse that I think will be hard to rival. Vosne here we come.

Burgundy 2008 Tastings - Days 4 & 5

Our final taste of the Cote de Beaune, for this week at least, was with Patrick Javillier, Tollot Beaut and Drouhin. A pleasant end to the Cote, stand out wines were the Meursault Tete de Murger, Corton Bressandes from Tollot, and a beautiful flight of Chambolles from Joseph Drouhin. We leave Chorey Les Beaune for Chablis in the north where we visit Moreau Naudet, Vincent Dauvissat, Laurent Tribut and Brocard. The 2008s here are a little behind schedule, like those of the Cote de Beaune, because of slow malolactic fermentations, however they showed extremely well. It is quite simply an excellent Chablis vintage, they have a similar intensity, ripeness and exuberance to the 2008s further south but perhaps even greater concentration and certainly more finesse. Hew told Vincent Dauvissat he thought it was one of the best vintages he has tasted in his 25 years in buying Chablis, high praise indeed! Moreau Naudet has,thankfully, produced a Montee de Tonnerre this year and has produced a stunning range. Laurent Tribut has made his finest wines yet.

This year's Burgundy marathon is broken up by a week in the London office, next week Hew and I head back out to Burgundy, where we will be pitching our tents mainly in the Cote de Nuits.

Burgundy 2008 tastings- Day 3

Apparently down in Biarritz they were basking in sunshine and swimming in the sea yesterday, well its not quite as hot as that here but it has been another fine day in Burgundy, clear skies beautiful colours and a balmy 19 degrees. The picture shows the view through the gates of Bachelet-Monnot's fine Boutiere 1er Cru vineyard in Maranges.

It was a mammoth day that started at 8.45am and finished at 8pm, tough but then again tasting with coche dury into the night is not such a hardship.

We tasted mostly white wine, it is clear the vintage is a very good one for whites, riper and more exotic than 2007 though not always as fine but with similarly racy acidities.Quantities are much smaller however because of the north wind concentrating the grapes.

Difficult to pick a highlight as there were so many great whites, coche dury was excellent but to be expected, there were superb ranges from Sauzet and Pierre Morey too, but forced into a corner it was tasting with the bachelet monnot brothers, they are young but already making top flight wines, we expected good wine but nothing as great as their 2008s. The Batard was the best we tasted. Jobard was not far behind, Francois' son Antoine is making the wine here now and has clearly taken the wines to another level.

Burgundy 2008 tastings - Day 2

On the evidence of today these 2008 reds have really turned out rather well. Many have an exciting freshness that the best Pinots display with an acidity that is high but ripe, the tannins seem very fine too. Malolactic fermentations have been very slow in 2008, often this is a process done and dusted by the following year's harvest but many have still not finished and some have only just started,however this has made for some very pure, bright and deeply coloured wines. This was the case at our first tasting, the young Arnaud Mortet is further perfecting the fine style of Burgundy that differs so greatly from that of his father. Here many wines were still mid malo and backward but we did get a fair glimpse of what's to come, a very tasteable Gevrey 1er Cru and Gevrey Champeaux that had finished their second fermentation were totally seductive. The harvest will be a tiny one, though.

Contrary to Mortet, at Drouhin Laroze there is a relatively healthy size of crop, Philippe's vines were less affected by oidium that was so prevalent in some sectors of the Cote de Nuits. Some very drinkable, fine and really quite moreish wines here. Chambertin Clos de Beze, so often the surly one of Philippe's vast Grand Cru brood, was actually incredibly showy and had real "wow" factor. Next and we cruised gently up the hill to Rousseau. Eric Rousseau has been making less wine over the last 5 years but has raised the qualitative bar accross the whole portfolio of wines, Clos de la Roche impressed, Chambertin was majesterial. What a treat this tasting was.

On to Nuits St Georges and Robert Chevillon's uniformly delicious set of 2008s, Vaucrains was a highlight and on today's evidence just pips Les St Georges. Our new grower in Nuits as of last year is Gouges. With a brand new cellar and the accession of Christian's nephew, Gregory, to winemaking duties quality has improved greatly as of 2007, the style being much less tannic in its youth, more finesse. I was delighted to see 2007 was no fluke, Gregory's 2008s are even better, they were utterly spellbinding!

All in all a really good day, some surprisingly good Pinots. Burgundy owe the north wind that arrived in September 2008 alot of gratitude, this is when things turned for the better. "A miracle" as Eric Rousseau calls it "morale at the end of August was as low as my socks, but look how good the wines are now!!"

Burgundy 2008 tastings -Day 1

Standing in Jean-Noel Gagnard's cellars at 8.45am this morning seems like a long time ago. A long but rewarding day has passed.

Often intense but distinctly 'adolescent' when tasted from barrel, Caroline Lestime's white wines are serious, often backward and always take a couple of years in bottle to blossom. The 2008s, though, are a really impressive range that already show tremendously well, offering a great balance between "gras" and freshness, the Bâtard was sublime. A tour of the Marquis d'Angerville vineyards followed. Guillaume d'Angerville's commute to and from his vines is enviable, within minutes we were admiring the view from the sun-kissed Champans vineyard, followed shorty afterwards by a trip to the even higher, stonier Taillepieds, all the while the steep tilt of Clos des Ducs to the north stayed in sight. All were within minutes of each other yet so different, this is the essence of Burgundy. The difference between the terroirs was amplified further during our tasting of 2008s, each wine was very clearly defined. On the day Champans was the stand out, so seductively Volnay - Guillaume's accession to duties at Domaine the d'Angerville has definitely coincided with the big qualitative resurgence of this classic Volnay vineyard. Dominique Lafon was next and did not disappoint, he is such an enthusiast and perfectionist. 2008 is a small crop here for reds and whites alike (the smallest ever that Dominique can recall for his Volnay.) Exciting wines from top bottom, the Macons were quite possibly his best yet, the Meursaults and Montrachet were as smart as usual, the pick of the cellar,though, went to Perrières. Finally we braved the back streets of Beaune in search of the Hospices de Beaune cellars. Confronted by a vast chai like room of new wooden barrels of seriously embryonic wine, we picked our way through an interesting but not necessarily homogenous 2009 crop. The best red wines are powerful yet already highly flattering to taste at this very early stage. Tomorrow sees a change of Cotes as we head for Gevrey and Nuits.