It started with a leg of lamb…

I’ve recently noticed the shape of wine bottles in our recycling bin changing – a seasonal shift perhaps. As the nights draw in and espadrilles have been replaced by wellingtons, my wine consumption has taken an Autumnal turn. The afternoons enjoying German Riesling and evenings sampling the delights of the Cote d’Or have given way to Sunday roasts and evenings in front of the fire getting reacquainted with some old friends.

As collectors have had their sights firmly on the best domaines in Burgundy, a once revered region has been languishing in relative obscurity. Bordeaux’s dominance and influence in the UK market has been rocked. Perceived overpricing and a weakening of demand from the Chinese market have hurt the reputation of this great wine growing region.

But when my father pulled out a bottle of d’Armailhac 2004 the other weekend to accompany a leg of lamb, my love affair with Claret was reignited. The 2004s are wonderful to drink right now. Domaine de Chevalier, Leoville Poyferre, even Haut Brion; all recent tastings have shown that this is a charming, accessible vintage to enjoy right now. But while the First Growths will dominate headlines and ensure the perception is that Bordeaux is still expensive, my recent forays into the cellar have proved quite the contrary. Bordeaux is producing some of the best value wines you can find anywhere in the world. Last week Mrs J and I drank four ‘little’ 2009s. Little in price perhaps, but certainly not in quality. Capbern Gasqueton is freshness personified, Calon Seguresque indeed. Chateau Villars is a big, impressive, Merlot dominated Fronsac, with bags of personality and ageing potential. While Villa des QuatreSoeurs is a classic, floral Margaux, so elegant and polished for a wine at this price level. My final encounter (for the time being) was the excellent Petit Bocq. This has real St Estephe minerality, lots of crushed stones, cooked meats and sweet berry fruit. One feels that this has a lot more to come, but that shouldn’t stop anyone popping open a bottle today. A feature of all these wines is their cashmere texture – the 2009s are decadent at every level. You can have so much fun with wines in this price bracket; if you have been wavering; these are guaranteed to restore your faith in the wines of Bordeaux.

Krug - A Tasting to Remember

Quality is something that Krug know a fair bit about, having made nothing but Prestige Cuvees every single year since 1843. Olivier Krug is at the helm of this great house and is committed to driving quality to ever greater heights.

We had the pleasure of Olivier’s company last Thursday. He kindly hosted a tasting in our cellar and a lunch for a few very lucky clients. We had the good fortune to learn all about the complexity of Krug’s Grand Cuvee, the Rose and the latest vintage, Krug 2000. They are fascinating Champagnes and ones to be enjoyed for the unique, complex styles they portray.

The Grand Cuvee is a blend of 10 vintages and over 120 different wines from numerous parcels and villages. Between 30 to 50% is produced from the most recent year and the rest a blend of up to nine vintages from the previous 15 years. We had examples of the Krug Grand Cuvee from the 2005 vintage, 2001 vintage and the 2000 vintage (as the base). Each was beautiful and individual. Since 2012, every bottle has a unique ID code, which allows the owner to learn about the cépage of their wine. Please click here to learn more.

Their superior and sophisticated rose is a rich blend of three different grape varieties and a wide range of vintages. It is remarkably versatile and is probably at its best accompanying food, allowing the structure, texture and beauty of the Cuvee to stand out. The Pinot really shows though giving plenty of red fruit character and spice; the Chardonnay the elegance.

Our final wine was the latest Vintage release, the 2000. This is already remarkably approachable, showing richness and intensity on the nose, the palate is indulgent, complex and precise. It is known by the Krug family as the, ‘stormy Indulgence’, due to the unusual climatic conditions the vintage experienced. You get the tell-tale biscuit and toasted brioche notes, with hints of smoke and oak on the pallet. It is rich and powerful, but is still young and tightly wound. This is underpinned with chalky minerality and citrus fruits making for a lively lift out of the brooding complex richness. The fresh but balanced acidity and fruit will let this age very gracefully and leaves a haunting, long finish.

Olivier spoke passionately about his wines and Krug’s heritage. Each wine is an individual and should be embraced and enjoyed to the full. It was a great pleasure to listen and learn from such an inspirational man. We look forward to organising more events with this wonderful house and enjoying their fabulous wines together in the future!

- Georgina Crawley, Private Client Sales Manager

Rhone: Topsy Turvy 2013 and Brilliant 2012

As I arrived in the Southern Rhone last week growers were debating anxiously with each other as to when to start their 2013 grenache harvest, what little of it there was to pick. Poor flowering or Coulure, has literally left just a few berries per vine. The weather last week was positively balmy in Chateauneuf and predicted to continue, but ripening was not complete in all vineyards and the process starts to slow down at this time of year. Picking was predicted to continue this week. This makes 2013 one of the latest in memory, certainly for Jean Abeille of Chateau Mont Redon who has 40 vintages under his belt. Curiously when I travelled to the Northern Rhone a few days later, the harvest had all but finished... A topsy turvy vintage.

2012, however, is a vintage that vignerons are certain of. It is a great year, most notably of all, but not exclusive to, the South. It is not a big crop, but it is qualitatively excellent, and this appears to be the case right across the Southern Rhone, particularly Chateauneuf du Pape. This appears to be a vintage of very ripe but notably fresh flavours, incredibly silky tannins and great intensity. The summer experienced heat spikes but the weather cooled down towards the end of season, so acidities are present but don't seem as high as that other recent great, 2010, and conditions were less dry so that tannins in 2012 are much more pliable. The resulting wines are seductive already but they are deceptively powerful and persistent. Above all the Southern Rhones, particularly in Chateauneuf, offer something very rare, elegance. This seems to me one of the most even-keeled and balanced vintages I have tasted. 

Up north there is a little less homogeneity perhaps, but there are plenty of excellent wines too. There are some wines that may not have been picked at optimum ripeness but the top estates have made, ripe fresh, classically structured Northern Rhones that offer an elegance similar to 2004 but with greater intensity and a little more stuffing. I found the Cornas of Domaine du Coulet and the Cote Rotie of Rene Rostaing to be absolutely outstanding.

For those looking at older vintages, in the south 1999s are drinking well as are 2001s. The excellent 2004s and 2000s are only just starting to come round. In the North the vintages that are drinking beautifully are 2000, 2001, and 2004.