In which Hew opines on his favourite Margaux properties in 2010, and his top value bargains from the Haut-Medoc...
Friday 15 April 2011
Wednesday 13 April 2011
Bordeaux 2010 - Hew's Views, The Medoc
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
The road trip continues...Hew discloses his top picks from the Medoc and muses on the new popularity for having horses do the work that tractors would otherwise have been employed for...
Tuesday 12 April 2011
Join the great `09/`10 debate
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
Call us sceptics, but we left for Bordeaux confident that 2009 was the greatest vintage we have ever tasted from barrel, and sure that 2010 would not live up to its distinguished predecessor. After a week of at times gruelling tastings, it is clear the 2010 rivals and could even surpass 2009. This is perplexing to say the least. 2009 enjoyed a near perfect growing season, 2010 did not. Poor flowering dramatically reduced yields; there was no talk of green harvests this year... In fact this was a bit of good fortune as the vines could not have coped through one of the most severe droughts in living memory with a full crop. This is a vintage characterised by a shortage of water, lots of sunshine and little extreme heat.
It wasn’t until the harvest started in perfect conditions that vignerons realised what potential the 2010s possessed. Analysis revealed that the tiny berries were super-concentrated, have huge tannin levels, wonderful acidity and big potential alcohols. One member of the team called the wines Neo-Classical; i.e. they are classically balanced but in an altogether new, bigger style. You could argue that they are Post Neo-Classical as vintages such as 2000 and 2005 are Neo-Classical and 2010 offers something altogether different. These are immense wines from top to bottom. In fact we were impressed by the consistency and quality of many petit chateaux. Words such as ‘monumental’ and ‘aristocratic’ have been used to describe the 2010s. They don’t possess the flamboyant character of the 2009s; they are at times reserved and brooding, but always powerful, intense, balanced and will no doubt last for many years.
In truth, it is impossible to favour one vintage; both are exceptional. Opinions are divided now and they will continue to be split for the next thirty or more years as these wines evolve. We stand by our comments last year – 2009 was and still is exceptional; at the time the greatest primeur tastings in living memory. We didn’t have the benefit of foresight... Now that we have tasted the 2010s there could be a new contender, but only time will tell. Much as the `28s and `29s have and continue to arouse discourse, the `09s and `10s have started a new debate.
It wasn’t until the harvest started in perfect conditions that vignerons realised what potential the 2010s possessed. Analysis revealed that the tiny berries were super-concentrated, have huge tannin levels, wonderful acidity and big potential alcohols. One member of the team called the wines Neo-Classical; i.e. they are classically balanced but in an altogether new, bigger style. You could argue that they are Post Neo-Classical as vintages such as 2000 and 2005 are Neo-Classical and 2010 offers something altogether different. These are immense wines from top to bottom. In fact we were impressed by the consistency and quality of many petit chateaux. Words such as ‘monumental’ and ‘aristocratic’ have been used to describe the 2010s. They don’t possess the flamboyant character of the 2009s; they are at times reserved and brooding, but always powerful, intense, balanced and will no doubt last for many years.
In truth, it is impossible to favour one vintage; both are exceptional. Opinions are divided now and they will continue to be split for the next thirty or more years as these wines evolve. We stand by our comments last year – 2009 was and still is exceptional; at the time the greatest primeur tastings in living memory. We didn’t have the benefit of foresight... Now that we have tasted the 2010s there could be a new contender, but only time will tell. Much as the `28s and `29s have and continue to arouse discourse, the `09s and `10s have started a new debate.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Masterclass – Monday, 18 April
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director
A celebration of Châteauneuf-du-Pape!
Justerini & Brooks are excited to host a tasting featuring Châteauneuf-du-Pape in all its glory at the fabulous French restaurant, Boundary, in Shoreditch. On offer will be an exquisite range of wines from Château Mont Redon, Domaine Jean Paul Versino/ Bois du Boursan, Vieux Télégraphe and Château de Beaucastel. The tasting will explore the varying styles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and will investigate the complexities of this historic appellation accross different vintages, all this around a selection of great Charcuteries and Canapés. Visit http://www.theboundary.co.uk/news/chateau-boundary/chateauneuf-du-pape-masterclass-monday-18-april-2011/index.php for further details and booking.
Voyager Estate - The Final Harvest Update April 2011
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
The final instalment of Voyager Estate’s harvest report.
"Similar to last year - we had just finished tipping our last bin of Cabernet Sauvignon into the de-stemmer and the rain started to fall. The harvest which commenced on the 9th of Feb and concluded on the 6th of April will be remembered for the warm and humid February and the perfect March weather which finished the reds off beautifully.
It was a season where patience was rewarded, as it was important to wait for the Cabernet Sauvignon and give it some hang time to ensure the tannins were fully ripe. Those who waited will make outstanding wines, with great concentration and fine, ripe, silky tannins.
The condition of the vine canopies at harvest was the best I have ever seen, with no sign of yellow leaves due to some timely midsummer rain. However, the fruit still showed evidence of the dry growing season, with small, deeply coloured berries and thick skins. Consequently the yields were quite low and came in just under our targeted range at around one and a half tonnes per acre.
The excellent quality of the grapes will see the fruit from most of our best vineyards spend a couple of weeks left on skins after fermentation which contributes great complexity and tannin structure to the wine.
Most of the Shiraz vineyards have completed fermentation and are looking fantastic with rich dark and red berry fruit and fine, complex layered tannins.
We have just started blending our Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon which looks great and the Chardonnay is potentially exceptional. The consistency of this region never ceases to amaze me and it really does fit the description as a "viticulturist’s paradise".
Cheers, Steve James"
"Similar to last year - we had just finished tipping our last bin of Cabernet Sauvignon into the de-stemmer and the rain started to fall. The harvest which commenced on the 9th of Feb and concluded on the 6th of April will be remembered for the warm and humid February and the perfect March weather which finished the reds off beautifully.
It was a season where patience was rewarded, as it was important to wait for the Cabernet Sauvignon and give it some hang time to ensure the tannins were fully ripe. Those who waited will make outstanding wines, with great concentration and fine, ripe, silky tannins.
The condition of the vine canopies at harvest was the best I have ever seen, with no sign of yellow leaves due to some timely midsummer rain. However, the fruit still showed evidence of the dry growing season, with small, deeply coloured berries and thick skins. Consequently the yields were quite low and came in just under our targeted range at around one and a half tonnes per acre.
The excellent quality of the grapes will see the fruit from most of our best vineyards spend a couple of weeks left on skins after fermentation which contributes great complexity and tannin structure to the wine.
Most of the Shiraz vineyards have completed fermentation and are looking fantastic with rich dark and red berry fruit and fine, complex layered tannins.
We have just started blending our Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon which looks great and the Chardonnay is potentially exceptional. The consistency of this region never ceases to amaze me and it really does fit the description as a "viticulturist’s paradise".
Cheers, Steve James"
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