Bordeaux 2009: Edouard Moueix

Pomerol from Justerini & Brooks on Vimeo.

Edouard, ever the gentleman, gives us his thoughts on the exceptional 2009 vintage at both Providence and Belair-Monange...

Hew's Views: The Medoc

Hew's Views: The Medoc from Justerini & Brooks on Vimeo.

Our very own Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman gives us his thoughts after a long day tasting the wines of the Medoc. Watch the blog for upcoming videos detailing Hew's picks from the right bank, his value selections and the inside track from a man who has been doing the Bordeaux thing since 1969.

Bordeaux 2009 - Scores on the doors...

We understand that the Wine Spectator are first to publish their scores for 2009 Bordeaux. We haven’t had a chance to look for ourselves, but James Suckling is apparently in typically buoyant mood, rating many wines near to perfection. We too have succumbed to the allure of numbers. In a highly scientific approach all eight members of the team have been asked to rank their favourite wines from the vintage. There are six categories: `First Growths`, including La Mission Haut Brion, Le Pin, Lafleur, Cheval Blanc and Ausone; `Left Bank and Graves` (excluding 1sts); `Right Bank` (excluding 1sts); best value buys (from either bank); top five Sauternes/Barsac and top five dry whites. The top ranked wine from each taster is awarded a maximum `dix points`, all the way down to the tenth placed wine, which receives just one point, a bit like Eurovision... then we tot up the scores and voila, we have a comprehensive list of the best wines.

The results are in and we start with the First Growths. 75 out of a potential 80 is quite an endorsement for Latour, a staggering wine and quite deserving of first place. It is also interesting to note that the list alternates between left/right bank until no. 8, making it difficult to call as a left/right bank vintage at the very top end.


Latour - 75
Le Pin - 67
Margaux - 59
Ausone - 57
Lafleur - 46
Lafite Rothschild - 40
Cheval Blanc - 38
Haut Brion - 25
La Mission Haut Brion - 17
Mouton Rothschild - 16

Results for the other categories will follow in the coming days.

Bordeaux 2009 – The final furlong

Okay, so we’ve tasted both banks and we are impressed. Day four was an opportunity to re-taste some of our favourite wines and also venture into Pessac and Sauternes. Before we left St Emilion we decided to pop into Chateau Pavie for an impromptu tasting. Hew charmed his way in and we washed away the taste of Sensodyne with some seriously tannic St Emilion. The Perse style is big, extracted, impressive and won’t be for everyone (including us...)

Then we headed to Fargue Saint Hilaire for a tasting with one of our key negociants. Here we had the opportunity to re-taste a huge selection of 2009s comparatively. This was fascinating. The super stars were Leoville Las Cases, Pontet Canet, Pichon Lalande, Forts de Latour, Grand Puy Lacoste, Leoville Barton, Calon Segur, Montrose and Conseillante. Best values included Chateau Reynon, Chasse Spleen, Durfort Vivens and Cantemerle. Again, we were impressed by the overall quality of St Estephe, Pauillac and St Julien; the wines from the Medoc, Listrac and Moulis were big over achievers, but again, we found many of the Margaux were un-typique.

UGC Pessac Leognan presented some lovely wines. Domaine de Chevalier was exceptional, Haut Bailly - silky smooth, Smith Haut Lafitte - powerful and refined, Pape Clement - enormous and massively impressive, and Malartic Lagraviere continues its recent run of success. The whites were striking too. Domaine de Chevalier has wonderful purity and intensity. We liked Malartic Lagraviere and we thought Picque Caillou was delicious and could be great value.

A quick foray into the misty depths of Barsac and Sauternes. Yquem was magnificent, our buying director and Chairman believes this to be the best young Yquem he has ever tasted, superior to the extraordinary 2001. As well as wonderful quality, Yquem has recorded its biggest ever harvest at 22hl/ha. We tasted ten barrels at Climens. Bérénice Lurton is clearly delighted with what turned out to be a harvest of quality and quantity; a splendid wine.

Our final appointment was at Haut Brion; a glorious selection of wines here. Clarence is fine textured and is undoubtedly the best Clarence ever; La Mission was so seductive, a splendid wine of purity and power; Haut Brion was enormously endowed, a vast wine built for the long haul. The whites are marvellous too; concentrated, mineral, energetic and wonderfully fresh - a great way to finish our week.

When we get back to the UK we will be posting more `Hew’s views`, video interviews and our top wines of the vintage.

Bordeaux 2009 – The right bank (St Emilion)

Our first taste of St Emilion was Cheval Blanc – what better place to begin. Tour du Pin was pretty, well made and could be one of the best values from the commune. Petit Cheval is outstanding, complex, impressive and down right delicious. The Grand vin then goes and wipes the floor... A tour de force and clearly one of the greatest wines from this illustrious estate.

All good things must come to an end and they certainly did at the UGC St Emilion. Another heavy shower, a pathetic fallacy if we ever saw one, soaked us and our spirits. Let’s start with highs (in no particular order): Larcis Ducasse, Troplong Mondot, Clos Fourtet, Canon, Pavie Macquin and Figeac. There were all too many wines that were unbalanced, outrageously tannic and generally unappealing.

Still under heavy skies, we travelled to Angelus where we were met by pretty girls and delicious wines. What a great stable of beautiful right banks from Hubert de Bouard. First off Fleur de Bouard proved an enormously attractive Lalande de Pomerol, the Grand Cru St Emilion Bellevue was staggeringly good, all velvet and undergrowth, whilst Angelus was seriously slick. From the crowded Angelus to the tight squeeze of Ausone, another of the vintage’s greats, how they achieve a wine of such concentration and focus year in year out is quite puzzling.

As usual we left Tertre Roteboeuf until last, the heady cherry on our flavoursome cake. Tertre was rich but vivid and vital, whilst Roc de Combe was glorious, pushing its sibling as close as ever for sheer intense quality. We had an insightful and thoroughly interesting interview with Francois Mitjavile, this will follow soon.

Bordeaux 2009 – The right bank (Pomerol)

Our first appointment was with the delightful Denis Durantou of Chateau L’Eglise Clinet. A magnificent range of wines picked before the rains in mid September. Crisp, vivid flavours combined with power and intensity. L’Evangile and Blason de L’Evangile were magnificent; silky smooth with power to boot. Then to Le Pin; it’s a hard life... Jacques Thienpont welcomed us to his temporary new cellar with his usual good cheer; the wine was at its ethereal best. From the Richebourg of Pomerol we travelled (some of us in a rather roundabout way) to the La Tache of Pomerol; Chateau Lafleur. The Cabernet Franc here is exceptional; the Grand vin is exquisitely fine, a wine of great class.

Next we tasted at the offices of J P Moueix. The charming Edouard Moueix kindly gave us an enlightening video blog, which will be posted later. Belair Monange is exceptional, Fleur Petrus, Hosanna and Trotannoy are all lovely, but it was La Providence that impressed most from the selection of Pomerol – a massively dense, complex wine with outstanding ageing potential.

You might be thinking that Pomerol is consistently brilliant, well it is at the top level, however the Pomerol UGC was a bit of a mixed bag. Conseillante was spectacular, Gazin was big and impressive, Clinet was even bigger and more impressive, but won’t be for everyone... La Cabanne and La Pointe demonstrated that there are some tough, rustic offerings from the commune, so it hasn’t been completely plain sailing.

We finished Pomerol with a trip to Alexandre Thienpont’s Vieux Chateau Certan. This is always a highlight of any Bordeaux trip. A stunning wine with an unusually high percentage of Merlot (84%); Alexandre believes that 2009 is a reference year for this varietal.

Bordeaux 2009: Super-Size Sauternes

Hot on the heels of the Haut Medoc tasting, brilliantly hosted by the delightful Chateau Cantemerle was our next appointment at Dauzac to taste the 2009 sweeties. It appears this Sauternes vintage is one of quality and quantity. Foggy mornings, cool nights and plenty of sunshine meant lots of noble rot, great ripeness and concentration and importantly, fresh acidities. De Fargues reported yields of 17hl/ha against an average 11 hl/ha and the quality is golden.

There will always be hot, sugary and rather clumsy Sauternes but I am happy to report there were a large number of highlights during this tasting, wines that lifted, enthused and refreshed a thoroughly red wine-stained J&B team. For the best this is not a heavy honeyed monolith of a vintage, rather one of concentration and brightness. The room's stand out wine was Rieussec, a powerful but balanced wine that will reward decades of cellaring no doubt. Doisy Verdines danced on the palate, all fruit finesse and freshness. Similarly well balanced were De Fargues, De Malle, Doisy Daene and Suduiraut all showing the right mix of concentration, vitality and well defined fruit. Sweet relief ahead of a big day on the right bank tomorrow.

Bordeaux 2009 – Margaux’s big boys...

The inclement weather has certainly made tasting more of a challenge today. Fortunately by the time we arrived for our appointment at Chateaux Margaux, the clouds had cleared and there was bright sunshine – now that’s what we call a micro-climate...

Corinne Mentzelopoulos and Paul Pontalier are clearly delighted with their 2009s. Paul said that the Pavillon Rouge is `clearly the greatest Pavillon ever`; quite a statement, but the evidence was in the glass. In fact, there was no sales pitch at all, such is the confidence at Margaux, `the wines speak for themselves` . Pavillon Rouge was exceptional. Margaux itself is quite simply ethereal. A magnificent wine which exudes grace, possesses extraordinary finesse yet is quite simply one of the most powerful, concentrated Margauxs ever. It would be remiss not to mention the Pavillon Blanc. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc cuvee was a remarkable feat in 2009. Potential alcohols were off the charts, however with great skill, Margaux have produced a vivid, refreshing, utterly moreish Pavillon Blanc with near normal alcohols.

Palmer is another of those red hot estates at the moment. Sadly their vineyards were hit by hail in May 2009, so yields are a meagre 34hl/ha. However, the crop that they harvested between the 23rd of September to the 14th of October was of exceptional quality. The Alter Ego is velvety smooth; a wine of great polish, whilst the Grand vin is opulence personified, a truly great Palmer!

Do watch out for more interviews and news in the coming hours and days. Tomorrow we will be on the right bank tasting St Emilion and Pomerol.

Bordeaux 2009 – Day 2

A wet and windy start to day two. Our first appointment was Grand Puy Lacoste. Xavier’s wines are thrilling, a great Lacoste Borie (2nd wine of GPL), a magnificent Haut Batailley; fragrant, seductive and very serious. Grand Puy Lacoste itself is beautiful; classic, true to its terroir and very classy. Then to Lafite Rothschild (tasted at Duhart Milon this year). Duhart is splendid; a heady mix of damson fruit and liquid minerals. Lafite itself is enormous; a monumental wine built for the very long-term, bravo!

UGC St Estephe, Pauillac and St Julien was held at Batailley. Howling winds, horizontal rain and poor car parking facilities couldn’t dampen our spirits. This was an interesting tasting; at was a first glimpse at some less prestigious estates. Highlights included both Pichons, Leoville Barton, Leoville Poyferre, Langoa Barton, Beychevelle and Lynch Bages. There were several over-achievers: Phelan Ségur, Ormes de Pez, Lafon Rochet, St Pierre and Lagrange all stood out. Alas, although the overall quality was excellent, Croizet Bages, Lynch Moussas and Grand Puy Ducasse were poor.

UGC Margaux was even patchier. Although the quality is definitely an improvement on 2008, most of the wines here seemed to lack Margaux style. There were a few good wines, but most were strangely atypical. They will certainly age well and are mighty impressive, but not necessarily classic. Stars included Durfort Vivens, Rauzan Segla, Lascombes and Malescot St Exupery.

After some much needed refreshments at Cantemerle, we set about the Listrac, Moulis, and Medoc UGC. In great vintages like 2000 and 2005, these wines present some of the best value from Bordeaux. The 2009s are arguably better than both of these vintages. The best wines were fragrant, concentrated, with exceptional purity and ripe rounded tannins. Stars included: Chasse Spleen, Cantemerle and Poujeaux, whilst there is incredible value to be found at estates such as Beaumont and Greysac.

Bordeaux 2009: Jean-Guillaume Prats, Cos d'Estournel

Chateau Cos d'Estournel from Justerini & Brooks on Vimeo.

Visiting Cos is quite something these days. The new tasting hall, artfully lit, emblazoned with the Cos Elephant at every opportunity, turned out to have a tailor made spot for a few words on the vintage..

Bordeaux 2009 - Part deux

Wow, Latour is jaw-droppingly good. Frederic Engerer has made astonishingly good set of 2009s; the grand vin is the best wine we have tasted yet – and it will take some beating. Both Pichons are good, but Lalande is comfortably better than Baron. After lunch we concentrated on St Julien. Leoville Poyferre is stunning; dense, complex and very stylish. The Bartons are, well, of course they’re great, they always are, but the `09s are even more concentrated, even more impressive, even better than usual. Bruno Borie is understandably delighted with his range; Croix de Beaucaillou is delicious and Ducru is very special – a wine of great intensity and class. Leoville Las Cases is regal and Clos du Marquis and Petit Lion are delightful too. Beychevelle is delicious; supple, fresh, beautifully pure. Our last appointment was with Lynch Bages; a fabulous effort; rich, with beautiful savoury notes – a real stunner.

So what have we learnt from our first day? We were expecting enormous wines, and they are big, but they have surprised us by how fresh and elegant they are. Certainly in the Medoc the 2009s are possibly more refined than the 2005s. This vintage is not all about power, there are some really silky, high-toned, complete wines that demonstrate wonderful precision and class.

Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur: Luc Thienpont, Clos des Quatre Vents

The first of our series of interviews conducted during the UGC week in Bordeaux features Luc Thienpont, whose Clos des Quatre Vents is even more delicious than usual this year.

Throughout the week we'll putting the questions to the people who make the wines you love. Was it a tough vintage to make? What were the challenges? Can they compare these wines to any other vintage (most can, as you'll see). And of course, any word on pricing......?

Stay tuned, there are many more to come.

A family affair

As a rule we don’t boast about all the fabulous dinners we enjoy at J&B, however, there’s always a first time... Last night we were entertained by the charming and extremely generous Luc Thienpont and his delightful family. We were put through our paces with multiple blind wines. We started so well; we picked Clos de Quatre Vents 2001, sadly our luck and skill ran out after that. Clos de Quatre Vents 2002 and 2004 followed, both utterly delicious; a testament to the great terroir and exceptional winemaking here. Then came a wine from Luc’s cousin, Alexandre. This was unmistakably VCC, but the year had us guessing. After a little assistance we eventually arrived at 1970; still tasting so young. Finally, we were treated to a magnificent bottle from the vineyard of Luc’s brother Jacques. We again picked the estate (Le Pin), but with limited experience with mature vintages (this is not a wine the J&B team often drink...), we struggled to pick 1989 as the vintage. It was quite simply one of the very finest bottles any of the team had ever tasted. Many thanks Luc for an exceptional, extremely generous selection of wines and a wonderful evening; the perfect start to our week.

Bordeaux 2009 - First Impressions

Following the narrowest of victories in the annual Bordeaux versus England cricket match we headed to Clos des Quatre Vents for our first taste of 2009. Luc's wines were fabulous; demonstrating true Margaux perfume and polish. The range is possibly his best yet; concentrated, deliciously fresh and true to their terroir. Monday Morning started with a trip to Montrose. A very serious, long term wine here - full of breed. Next came Haut Marbuzet, a completely different proposition - ultra fine, beautifully composed and utterly delicious; almost Burgundian. A short hop to Cos, which as Hew has previously mentioned is outstanding; an enormous wine of legendary proportions. Then to Pauillac for tastings at Mouton Rothschild and Pontet Canet. The Mouton range continue to impress; a delicious Clerc Milon and a spell binding Mouton. Ponet Canet is a must buy; a complete wine of intensity and finesse. Off to Latour...

Winemaker's Series: Delaire Estate

Morne Vrey brings us another update from Stellenbosch....

"All grapes are in and whites are nearly done with fermentation!


Our Sauvignon Blanc’s are looking very promising and we are very excited about the progress thus far. Fermentation process of Chardonnay is complete and is showing beautiful citrusfruit with rich minerality – it’s definitely a good Chardonnay vintage.

Rose is undergoing very slow but steady fermentation – we are very happy with the flavours, it’s going to be a beautiful wine!

Last grapes picked were our Cabernet Sauvignon, which is undergoing fermentation. Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc has been basket pressed and put in barrel for malolactic fermentation.  All in all, it has been a short but intense harvest and we very much look forward to the next couple of months, closely monitoring the progress…"

Winemaker's Series: Voyager Estate

Thursday 25th March 2010

It has been a busy week with all of our Shiraz now harvested. Due to the wonderful season and meticulous viticulture we have been able to harvest our Shiraz at lower sugar levels than normal and the resultant wines look sensational. I believe it is potentially the most impressive Shiraz that I have seen in my 12 years at Voyager Estate and, the aromatics, tannin ripeness and purity of fruit is truly exceptional. Some batches have already been pressed off and are waiting to go to barrel to soak up some of the lovely French oak.

We have also harvested most of our Merlot and some of the earlier picks of Cabernet Sauvignon. Again the nature of this excellent season has allowed harvesting of fruit with silky ripe tannins at lower Baume than normal, which I am sure will result in elegant wines with wonderful aromatics and classical varietal expression.

The weather has cooled off slightly and, we are getting mild days with no sign of any significant rain in sight - perfect conditions for finishing off the remaining blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet loves the milder weather and slower ripening at the end of the season to develop the concentration and tannin ripeness we look for.

We are all very happy and excited by the quality of what we are seeing and if the great weather continues we should be completed harvesting sometime during Easter.

Steve James, Voyager Estate

More Barolo 2006 and the rest - Days 3 & 4

Great Barolos, Serious Soaves and excitment in Valpolicella

Excuse the radio silence, two and a half days of tasting young Barolo followed by a three hour journey east towards Treviso can take it out of you. Day 3 was a very spoiling one, visits to Roberto Voerzio, Paolo Scavino and Gaja. Our tasting with Enrico Scavino was sensational, a producer seemingly at the top of his game. After a brooding start to life, the 2005s seemed to have quickly come a long way after a couple of years in bottle, they will drink quite beautifully before too long, while we wait for the 2004s and 2006s. Their 2006s were intense, structured but always showing Scavino polish, they will be up there with the vintage's best. Gaja was everything I expected, great wines of huge intensity and length of flavour. The 2007s were luxurious and heady, the 2006s more restrained but highly sophisticated. However, the single most impressive array of wines during the Piedmont leg of our trip hail from Roberto Voerzio. From Dolcetto to Barolo, these are naturally made and very intense wines produced with unstinting attention to detail. The picture shows bunches from their Barbera Pozzo vineyard, they cut the bottom off all of their bunches, as the finest grapes are to be found at the top or "ears", where ripening takes place first. There is no La Serra 2006, the Voerzios weren't happy with the wine's aromas during ageing and so sold it off, this tells you all you need to know about them. The rest of their 2006s are impeccable - precise, ripe and definitely built to last.

A long hike east takes us off to the pretty Colli Asolani to our Prosecco producer, Dal Bello, a thoroughly refreshing change from young red wine that gets day 4 off to a good start. Then we head west again to the hills of Mazzano in Valpolicella and its quite breathtaking views. 450 metres above sea level in the hills overlooking the town of Negrar are the Vivianis, a charming husband and wife team. Such pure, elegant and drinkable wines, be it simple Valpolicella classico, Amarone or Recioto. They have cast their spell. A very exciting find, I feel. Finally we end our trip with a visit to the affable and quite brilliant Gini family. 2009s are richer than 2008s but show great acidity and finesse too. Any wine lover can not fail to be enchanted by these fruity, zesty Soaves. La Frosca proves that Italian white wine can genuinely be great: Along side the young vintages we tasted a 1997. Like a mature Riesling on the nose, all honey and minerals on the palate but still youthful and refreshing , with a remarkably long, mineral finish. Exquisite.

Alas, like all good things, my short but sweet taste of Italy must come to an end. Now back to earth, via Milan Malpenza.

Barolo 2006 - day 2

Super Serralungas !

After last night's belly full of Elio Altare's bread, Sicilian Terre Nere olive oil and wholesome array of vegetables, we were fighting fit for a day's tasting up and down the Barolo region, away from the comfort zone of La Morra and its refined, perfumed wines. We started off in the 'dark' corners of Barolo: At Azelia in Castiglione and Clerico in Monforte, followed by Giacosa in Neive and finally Sandrone in Barolo itself where they have made some extremely polished wines.

Some massive but excellent 2006s overall, Monfortes and Serralungas are not for the faint-hearted but the best examples have such great fruit, flesh and minerality to carry you through the explosive tannins of their young wines.

Just as Altare's Ceretta did yesterday, the Serralunga single crus impressed most, particularly the 2006 San Rocco from Azelia and the new vineyard from Clerico, 2006 Aeroplan Servaj (wild plain), as well as the Rocche del Falleto Riserva 2004 from Giacosa. That said Clerico's Monforte, Ginestra, was also a monumental effort.

Luigi Scavino of Azelia has made some excellent 2006s and a superb Voghera Brea Riserva 2004 (another Serralunga.) This is an estate that is starting to get showered with plaudits and deservedly so.

Apart from Azelia, the other highlight was Clerico. Despite the big structures, his wines have a clarity and precision that really put them at the top of Barolo's first division. A long tasting here finished with an incredible flight of 1992, 1998 and 1999 Pajanas, proving how sweet, spicy and seductive these big wines become with age.

The day ended, fittingly, on a bottle of Marenca 1998 from Luigi Pira of Serralunga, another excellent wine from this great commune. All sweet spice and liquorice but with sufficient mineral vitality.

Time to pull out the toothbrush, more tomorrow

2006 Barolos - day 1

For the first time in 10 years of coming here to Piedmont, there is snow in March. Apparently half a metre fell two days ago. It's a great opportunity to visually pick out the top vineyard sites, where the snow has already completely melted away.

Aside from tasting the new young wines, sumptuous and easy 2009 Dolcettos and Barberas, our main purpose here is, of course, to taste the latest Barolo releases. We have covered good ground today, most of it in and around La Morra - Marco Marengo, a Corino double header (Giovanni and Renato), Elio Altare, Matteo Correggia in Roero, finishing on a high with the trip up towards Asti to visit La Morandina, whose delightful Moscato d'Asti must be one of the best there is.

On today's evidence 2006 is a very good Barolo vintage indeed, the wines taste well now but clearly have great ageing potential. They have robust structures without being austere, crisp red fruit acidities, and that enchanting Nebbiolo aroma and ripeness. A classic style vintage, akin to 1996 but sweeter, fleshier and less chiselled, an extremely interesting proposition particularly for the purist.The only negative so far seems to be that very localised but devastating hail towards the end of the 2006 season meant that some wines have not been made, Arborina from Renato and Elio Altare, for example.

Today also saw our first glimpse of Elio Altare's new cru Barolo, Ceretta, a vineyard from Serralunga. We tasted 2005 and 2006, both very complex and moreish wines, different to the La Morras but every bit as impressive. Alas the 2005 will not be released until next year.

Now the hamlet of Annunziata La Morra beckons, where I will wash away a day's worth of tannins with some of Elio's, apparently very good, home made bread.

A presto !

Winemaker's Series: Voyager Estate

Steve James' latest report is just in and things continue to look good for the Voyager harvest...

"Monday 15th March 2010

All of our white grapes have been harvested with our final white harvest of Chenin Blanc completed last Thursday evening. The Chardonnays are close to finishing fermentation and the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are ticking away nicely. It is always a great feeling to have the whites into the winery and safe from any of the impacts that nature can bring at this critical period. We are really happy and excited by the quality of the whites and I believe we will make some outstanding wines - particularly Chardonnay which looks exceptional.The first of our reds will be hand picked tomorrow morning with the eastern side of our Ullingers Block 2 Shiraz ready to go. The flavours in the reds look fantastic with lower than normal sugar levels and fine, physiologically ripe tannins. I suspect most of our Shiraz will be harvested by the end of this week and we should be starting Merlot and some Cabernet Sauvignon next week. Again - if the wonderful weather holds out we will be in for an exceptional red wine vintage. The slightly cooler conditions forecast for this week are great for slowly finishing the reds off."