Bordeaux 2012 - Day 1

Same story – not always the same result

The tale from vignerons is of three distinct seasons: a wet spring with a difficult flowering, a dry and warm summer with the potential of hydric stress, and a wet harvest with the potential for rot. It was certainly a challenge, but one that some have risen to. Our first appointment was with the dynamic Denis Durantou of Eglise Clinet. His range was spectacular (as usual). La Chenade will be one of the best values, Montlandrie continues to push the boundaries of what can be achieved in Castillon, and the Pomerols, Petite Eglise and Eglise Clinet are spectacular, but sadly there is about 25% less Grand Vin in 2012. Our next stop was an appointment with the Guinadeaus. Pensees is a sensational second wine with real grand vin breed – Lafleur itself is less massive and brooding than recent vintages, but is beautifully poised, intellectual,. 

Petrus’ 2012 was the first wine to be produced in the new wine-making facility, built on their plot of Cabernet Franc. As a result the cuvee is 100% Merlot and the wine is astonishing: grand, profound, voluptuous and deep. A hop-skip-and-a-jump to VCC and a tasting with Alexandre Thienpont. His Merlot plots adjoin Petrus and were very successful. Although the Cabernet Francs were more of a challenge, he has used his very best plots to add complexity and freshness to the final cuvee. As we have come to expect, another wonderful wine from this high-flying Pomerol estate.

Next to Alexandre’s cousin, Jacques at Le Pin. The 2012 is exotic and opulent and classic Le Pin. We also had the opportunity to taste Jacque’s new St Emilion, L’If. We believe that the translation is Yew, so an evergreen connection to Jacques’ Pomerol estate. The wine is beautifully precise, with wonderful purity of fruit and great finesse.

We lunched at Cheval Blanc. Considering Yquem has decided not to release a 2012, Pierre Lurton was in a surprisingly jovial mood. Although there won’t be any more of the excellent Tour du Pin as the best 1.4 hectares has been reclassified as Grand Cru Classe ‘A’ and will be incorporated into Cheval Blanc, the latest acquisition, Quinault L’Enclos is beginning to show real promise. Tiny yields mean there won’t be much wine, but it is definitely one to look out for in the future. As for the Petit Cheval and Grand Vin, these are two of the smartest wines we have tasted from this illustrious estate; they are both profound, deeply serious wines that hit all the right notes with us...

Our tastings with Francois Mitjavile of Tertre Roteboeuf andRoc de Cambes are always highlights of any trip, and the 2012s are no exception. Francois was at his humorous and thought provoking best. We will be posting his views in the next few weeks; well worth looking out for... Both wines excelled in 2012 and should be included on any self respecting wine lover’s shopping list - they really are sensational wines.

Other high points of day one included a very smart Fleur de Bouard and a really excellent Angelus, a charming and invariable a good value Fonbel and a slightly controversial Ausone. I was thrilled by the multilayered complexity, but the feeling was not necessarily unanimous. We also learnt of Margaret Thatcher’s death whilst tasting at Evangile. Apologies to Domaine Baron Rothschild as the news rather distracted us from your excellent wine – we will forever remember the place where we heard the news...

In summary, the great terroirs on the plateau of Pomerol have performed well with many good to excellent wines. St Emilion is patchier, but this should not come as a surprise. The early ripening Merlots have performed well producing seductive, powerful wines. Cabernet Francs were more of a challenge, but when harvested at full maturity and used sympathetically, they add complexity, perfume and freshness to the blends. All in all a strong showing from the right bank.

Bordeaux 2012 vintage report

As a wise and worldly negociant reminded me the other week, ‘we [Bordeaux] don’t have bad vintages anymore; only good ones and exceptional ones’. He was being facetious of course, but there was much truth in what he said. Where there’s the money, and it grows on vines in these parts... humans and technology have overcome nature and are capable of making quality wines in even the most challenging conditions. Using low yields and using the latest innovations such as reverse osmosis, cryoextraction and optical sorting tables, wine-makers of today can perform miracles in the sort of vintages where their forebears despaired. So years like `77, `84, `87, `91 and `92 may be unavoidable, but these sorts of wines certainly are.

2012 would certainly have presented lots of problems to vignerons of yesteryear. Following a freezing February, budburst was a week later than the norm and a full three weeks after the precocious 2011s. April was exceptionally damp and mildew became an ever-present threat. Flowering in June was protracted and there was some millerandage and coulure, but the most striking feature was the uneven evolution from bunch to bunch. At this point vignerons knew it would be a late harvest and there was a very real risk that full ripeness would not be achieved. Thankfully July marked a turning point and the sun shone long and hot throughout the second half of July, August and September. Despairing winemakers began to see hope for the vintage, particularly given the region’s predisposition for Indian summers.

Whilst the early harvesting communes such as Pomerol managed to pick their Merlots in mid September, the Medoc required more phenolic ripeness in their Cabernets. Vignerons could be forgiven for being a little blasé; there hadn’t been notable harvest rains since 1999. Some much needed showers arrived on the 23^rd of September, but rather than settling back into the normal Indian summer routine, heavy and persistent rains arrived on the 8^th of October.  Most meteorologists painted a bleak outlook, so the majority of estates decided to act fast, bringing in as much fruit as they could before any dilution or rot would take effect.

Speaking with Bruno Borie of Ducru Beaucaillou soon after the harvest, he told of a first sorting in the vineyards, followed by two sorting on his optical sorting tables. The resultant crop was cleaned and de-stemmed and Bruno is delighted with the results. Indeed, at out Ducru dinner in February he was telling us all about the ‘Glorious Twelfth’, nothing to do with that most special date in August as we had assumed, but a rather obscure reference to a Protestant revolution in 1688. Yes, this is one of Bruno’s more obscure metaphors, but he argues that 2012 is a revolution in modern winemaking; the first time all the technical advances have been fully employed with outstanding results.

We are looking forward to the primeur tastings in April and will publish our tasting notes soon after. Please keep an eye on our blog and follow us on Twitter @Bordeaux buyer, @GilesBG and @Justerinis for further updates.

A steady start to 2013

Liv-ex, the London based wine trading platform has posted figures for the Liv-ex 100 for the first quarter of 2013. The month of March ended up 1.3%, which represents an increase of 7.3% for the year to date. A solid start to 2013 then, but before we get carried away, if we caste our minds back to 2012, the index enjoyed positive start before the 2011 primeur campaign triggered a run of four consecutive months of decline. Let’s hope that history doesn’t repeat itself...

Understanding “Goldcapsule” - The J. J. Prüm way...

I've been talking to the delightful Katharina Prüm quite a lot of late. We've been putting the final touches to the hugely exciting masterclass she'll be hosting at our Portfolio tasting in London on 25th April. The final list of wines is a mouthwatering selection designed to go some way to unlocking the differences between the Prüm's two greatest vineyards, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Graacher Himmelreich, by looking at them through the lenses of various vintages and Prädikats. 

As we've gone back and fourth, one bit of literature she sent me was a piece explaining in some detail the Goldcapsule designation. As it's both interesting and not necessarily immediately obvious, I thought it would make sense to post it here in full:

Understanding “Goldcapsule”

“Goldcapsule” is not defined by German wine laws, rather a means used by estates to distinguish higher-quality wines within one Prädikat, especially the Auslese category, from their basic lots. To understand the background better, it is very helpful to look back a few decades. Before 1971, there were four recognized levels of Auslese wines in Germany. You could find wines labeled as „Auslese“, „Feine Auslese“, „Feinste Auslese“, and „Hochfeine Auslese“. The longer the name the higher the concentration – usually achieved by botrytis - and the smaller the production.

In an effort to simplify the universal marketing of German wines, the government stepped in and revised the Prädikat system to allow for only one Auslese category. The new rule was met with frustration by the high-quality-conscious winemakers, mostly those from the Mosel, who had perfected the art of selective harvesting and now were deprived of the traditional means to express the different levels. The issue with Auslese in particular is that it is the Prädikat level with the widest Oechsle range (in Germany, the natural concentration of the grape juice at harvest is measured in degrees Oechsle). On one end of the spectrum is a style closer to Spätlese and on the other end is Beerenauslese. So with just Auslese on the label how would a customer know if it was closer to Spätlese style or more close coming to a BA? Since the 1971 law forbid use of wording to denote special bottling within a Prädikat, estates got around that by developing other means of identification.

The most acknowledged method – and the one also used by Joh. Jos. Prüm estate - is a golden capsule, in contrast to the white capsule used for the “basic” Auslese. A short gold capsule usually means a presence of botrytis and a long gold capsule represents a remarkably higher percentage of botrytis and consequently concentration, close in quality and style to a Beerenauslese.


Unfortunately, there was no uniform solution by all estates found after the change of law in 1971. Instead of the Goldcapsule, some estates opted to use a star system on the label and still others use a cask number. Also, there are some wineries that use golden colored capsules on all their wines, and there are again others that produce Goldcaps not only in the Auslese but also in the Spätlese category..

Now, what are the characteristics of a Goldcapsule, why buy such a wine? Think of them as limited edition, rather small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger selected grapes containing higher concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis / noble rot, capable of aging even remarkably longer than “basic” Auslesen, lasting for many decades. In the course of time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.

Goldcapsules are not made every year. Due to an overall higher ripeness of the grapes in the more recent past, there were more chances to produce such wines than in earlier days, however, for instance, vintage 2004 allowed only a very small quantity to be produced which was only offered at the VDP Mosel auction in Trier.

To differentiate between Goldcapsule and Long Goldcapsule, Joh. Jos. Prüm estate marks the Long Goldcapsules with two white stripes at the bottom (see right bottle) in contrast to only one stripe for the Gold Capsule ( left bottle):

Voyager Estate - Harvest Update pt.8

Tuesday 19th March 2013 

Following the rapid completion of the whites in late February, summer finished quite abruptly and, the first few weeks of March have been relatively mild and unsettled.

Fortunately there has been minimal rain and, the cooler conditions have allowed the reds to finish off slowly, building great flavour and excellent tannin ripeness. We harvested our first block of Shiraz with a small portion of Viognier last Tuesday, and now have a steady week or so of our Shiraz harvest in front of us. The early signs are very encouraging, with fine soft tannins, plush ripe fruit and great generosity of flavour.

The weather forecast for the next week appears perfect, with mild days, light breezes and plenty of sunshine.

Our yields on Shiraz have been within our targeted range of 5 to 6 tonnes per hectare, however I anticipate our Cabernet Sauvignon will be slightly lower than expected due to the very small berry size.

The quiet couple of weeks has enabled the winery team to keep on top of their workload and even have the odd day off – a rarity during the harvest period!.

Meanwhile, the vineyard team is really busy again netting the vines, as the dreaded Silvereye (small native grape loving bird,) has begun to arrive in small squadrons.

At this stage, I anticipate completing our Shiraz harvest late next week and, moving onto the Merlot and finally Cabernet Sauvignon during early April.

What appeared to be an early harvest has suddenly reverted to a more “normal” harvest window for the reds. We are also gearing up for our Friends and Family harvest day on Saturday, where we will be hand harvesting a small block of Shiraz. Run in a slightly less serious format than a normal pick - there is plenty of breaks for enjoying a glass of bubbles or red with breakfast followed by morning tea and a long lunch!.

Cheers,

Steve James

Rhone 2012 and 2011: updates

Last week Rhone growers gathered together to show their 2011s, and the odd 2012 under the table, in Avignon at the Palais des Papes, Tain Hermitage, Mauves and Ampuis.  Aswell as the bad and the ugly there was significant representation from the great and the good.  In a strong show of viticultural "fraternite" growers were out in force, it was an impressive display.

I found some very good Rasteau, Lirac, Vacqueyras and Gigondas wines. It is clear that when carefully chosen these areas can offer wines of great character and exceptional value, though there is still too much inconsistency, perhaps this may have been a little exaggerated in a year like 2011 where less capable growers stuck out like saw thumbs. The vintage is also inconsistent in Chateauneuf and one that really separates the wheat from the chaff.  Some wines can be just a little lacking and overly alcoholic whilst others were delightfully delicious already - well-balanced, fragrant and easy on the brain with enough structure and character to make them interesting, whilst not being too demanding.  Thank goodness because 2009s and 2010s are intense and don't look like budging anywhere soon.  The highlights of those I tasted last week were Pegau, Barroche, St Prefert and Vieux Telegraphe.  It is a vintage that favours the North, certainly. However from the odd 2012 i tasted north and south of Montelimar, its seems that the situation is reversed a little.  2012 looks to be an excellent year in the Southern Rhone. It is certainly something to keep a close eye on.

The Northern Rhone provided a plethora of 2011 wines that gave immense pleasure.  I would guess that a good 98% of top producers accross all of the appellations in the North turned up last week, it was a veritable Mecca for the Syrah lover.  2011 may not be a 2010 or 2009 but it offers a suave texture and openness that is rather unusual for young Northern Rhones, and whilst this suggests they will drink well young (good news) there is enough depth and complexity to suggest good medium term, 10 -12 year ageing potential.  Hermitage provided some highlights, but this was trumped by Cornas. Hermitage may have exceptional terroir but Cornas is a haven for young and established wine-growing talent.  There were 6 domaines that in my view produced excellent quality 2011s, more than in Hermitage, our own Domaine du Coulet and Thierry Allemand being two of them, not to mention the distinct but brilliant Clape wines, aswell as those of Vincent Paris, in addition to two other growers not on the Wine advocate radar who will remain nameless, don't want to be giving too much of the game away!

The Cote Rotie tasting was a roll call of the greatest names in the region, including Messrs Guigal and Jamet, and there were a clutch of impressive 2011s on show but it still remains a frustrating appellation, you really get the feeling that there is so much more potential than is being delivered.  The bright star that outshone all others was without doubt Clusel Roch, these are wines that have equal measures of refinement, character, depth and lightness of touch. They strike the balance better than any.

Back to Britain through blizzards only to come back again to Burgundy yesterday , more in a few days.

The moment we’ve all been waiting for - Parker firms up on Bordeaux 2010

Parker’s out, and the 2010s have scored a stunning ten hundred point wines. Not bad at all. There may be a few eyebrows raised by the list of perfect wines. Pape Clement, La Violette and a St Emilion estate that we know quite well, Le Dome all feature alongside the regular 100 pointers like Latour, Haut Brion and Petrus. Please find the full list below:

2010	Latour	100
2010	Beausejour (Duffau Lagarosse)	100
2010	Cheval Blanc	100
2010	Le Pin	100
2010	Haut Brion	100
2010	Petrus	100
2010	La Violette	100
2010	Pontet-Canet	100
2010	Pape Clement	100
2010	Le Dome	100

There are also some 23 wines that score 98 or 99 out of 100. This confirms (if there were any doubt) what a magnificent vintage 2010 is.

2010	Montrose	99
2010	La Mondotte	99
2010	Gracia	99
2010	Le Gay	99
2010	Chateau Margaux	99
2010	Troplong-Mondot	99
2010	Vieux Chateau Certan	99
2010	Trotanoy	98
2010	Mouton-Rothschild	98+
2010	Haut Brion Blanc	98
2010	Lafite-Rothschild	98
2010	L'Evangile	98+
2010	Palmer	98+
2010	Haut Bailly	98
2010	Leoville-Poyferre	98+
2010	Angelus	98
2010	Larcis-Ducasse	98+
2010	Smith-Haut-Lafitte	98+
2010	Clos Fourtet	98
2010	La Mission Haut Brion	98+
2010	Ducru Beaucaillou	98+
2010	Ausone	98+
2010	Pavie	98+

Please click here to view available wines.

Voyager Estate - Harvest Update pt.7

Harvest Update – 1st March 2013 

It has certainly been a very busy couple of weeks with our white grape harvest completed on Wednesday evening.

The Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon harvest was completed in 8 days – a new record. The warm days and cool evenings have provided perfect ripening conditions which has resulted in several blocks ripening at the same time, necessitating a quicker harvest to ensure the fruit is picked in the optimal flavour window.

The Sauvignon Blanc has fresh and vibrant tropical fruit flavours of passionfruit, with some kiwifruit and lychee. The Semillon is in the citrus spectrum, with flavours of lemon and grapefruit. The early indicators are for an excellent example of this blend from the 2013 vintage, with plenty of fruit weight and intensity.

Chardonnay is fermenting away nicely in barrel and, again the potential looks great, with excellent fruit weight, concentration and flavour profiles.

Yields have been moderate, and from all reports, Sauvignon Blanc crops are down by 30% across the region.

I expect this trend will continue with the reds as the berries are very small, which will result in very high skin to juice ratios. Great for quality and concentration but not so good for our volumes!.

The early signs for the reds are extremely encouraging with our early tasting and sampling showing great flavour and tannin development at low sugar levels. I anticipate we will commence the red grape harvest next week with the first of our Shiraz fruit coming into the winery. It will be an exciting week as we commence the use of our new fruit sorting technology which, will ensure only pure berries and no leaf or petiole will find its way into the fermenters.

Fingers are crossed for a continuation of this beautiful weather, as the season is reminding me of 2001 which, delivered some of the best reds the region has seen.

Cheers,

Steve James

Mas Martinet - constant innovators

A couple of photos just received from Mas Martinet where experimentation rules and they are never happy to  rest on their laurels. In constantly striving to make ever more elegant wines, one of the greatest difficulties in Priorat is the often searing heat. One method of countering this is to use hay between the rows. Having stuck my own hand into the soil below the hay I can confirm this basic method does indeed work - the soil is noticeably cooler below the hay than exposed. It may be old school low-tech but it is certainly effective! Note also the peculiar vine training circles which help to provide greater shade for the grapes. And their very friendly winery dogs....

The Clos Martinet Vineyard

Voyager Estate - Harvest Update pt.6

Sunday 17th February 2013 

Hand harvesting for our Estate Chardonnay commenced last Sunday in perfect conditions. This was one week later than last season and, it appears we are tracking on a more “normal” ripening season.

The weather has been warm, with cooler evenings than the past couple of years, which is resulting in great flavour and acid retention in the fruit.

The Dijon clone 95 from three of our best vineyard blocks has been picked and, looks outstanding. Concentrated flavours of lemon, grapefruit and pear with low sugar levels and excellent acidity has the winemaking team very excited. We are currently harvesting the Gin Gin clone Chardonnay which provides the more powerful core to the wine. Prone to millerandage, this clone has a high percentage of tiny berries this season due to the cool windy growing season. The fruit is currently in the lemon/grapefruit spectrum with excellent natural acidity and, we are all very optimistic of another potentially wonderful year for Chardonnay from our vineyard.

The other white varieties – namely Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, are also ripening steadily in the fine and mild conditions. I expect we will commence harvesting these varieties sometime this week as, we wait for the vines to put the final finishing touches to the grapes!.

It is always great to start a harvest in fine dry weather, and with another week of warm days and cool nights forecast, the conditions should see a significant percentage of our whites harvested.

Cheers,

Steve James.

Save The Date! Portfolio Tasting 25th April 2013

Do keep Thursday 25^th April 2013 free for the Justerini and Brooks greatly received Portfolio Tasting, once again being held at Somerset House.  More details to follow....

Vintage report from Chateau Angélus

Hubert de Bouard is celebrating the erection of his new bell tower (right). We are looking forward to visiting the estate in April, but in the mean time, the chateau have kindly provided a vintage report and their first impressions of their vat tastings.

'This new vintage experienced some difficulties at the outset: weather in springtime was chaotic, with chilly, wet conditions, causing the flowering period to be particularly spread out over time. This was followed by a cool start to summer without much sunshine… all these factors suggested a late vintage. However, the months of August and September were extraordinary and any inconsistency due to bad weather at the beginning of spring was erased. These months even enabled a very healthy and ideally ripe crop to be gathered. The harvests were done in October, from the 8^th for Merlot grapes, whereas the last Cabernets were picked on 18^th October.

First impressions

Angélus 2012 is marked by exceptional pureness of fruit, structure is perceptible but soft,

both for the Merlots and for the Cabernets. It is a great vintage which will have required tremendous vigilance, a great deal of work in the vineyard, and for which the summer was a decisive moment.

A great vintage, most certainly easier to express on earlier-ripening terroirs such as those of Château Angélus.'

Southwold under snow

Despite the freezing conditions, many of the great and good from the wine trade made the annual pilgrimage to Suffolk to re-taste the much vaunted 2009s.

This was the vintage of the century, a vintage that boasts 17 hundred point wines, so how do they stack up three and a bit years on? Well the first observation is the tannins. From barrel, these were almost undetectable. Most of our notes referred to silky, velvety tannins, mainly masked by opulent fruit. Today, the wines are quite obviously tannic. They have lost some of that hedonistic quality and have gained in structure. This all bodes well for long term storage, but may put impatient souls off...

Another surprise was just how big a gulf there is between the top names and the low-mid-range Clarets. vignerons and negociants declared 2009 to be a 'great', 'homogenous' vintage with quality produced from top to bottom. They are right, many of the smaller estates have produced their best wines in 2009, but from the evidence of this tasting, you cannot expect to obtain First Growth quality on a cru bourgeois budget. At the affordable level the likes of Gloria, Clos des Quatre Vents, Poujeaux, Roc de Cambes, Lafon Rochet, Langoa Barton and Haut Batailley all had very strong showings and offer very good QPR (quality price ratio).

Where the vintage becomes really interesting is at the very top echelons. These flights from both banks of the Gironde were quite exceptional. Duhart Milon, Latour, Lafite, Mouton Rothschild, Montrose, Ducru Beaucaillou, Las Cases, Cheval Blanc, Canon, Ausone, Eglise Clinet, Clinet, Le Pin, Petrus and Palmer all deserve special mention. I gave two 20/20 scores to Latour and Montrose and on another day I may have awarded Lafite, Mouton and Eglise Clinet the same accolade. Other estates worthy of a special mention include Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (£540/cs) and Grand Puy Lacoste (£575/cs). Both offer outstanding quality and punch well above their weight.

The final session was devoted to the whites. I have to admit, the 2009 Sauternes and Barsacs rather passed me by when we tasted from barrel. All the hype surrounding the reds swallowed me up and I feel I rather missed a trick. 2009 produced splendid botrytis and the wines display everything needed for successful cellaring: richness, density, complexity, freshness and balance. They are delightful wines, and whilst they will always play second fiddle to the reds, they should certainly not be forgotten. My highlights included Doisy Vedrines, Lafaurie Peyraguey, Suduiraut and Rieussec.

So in conclusion, the reds are shutting down. Apart from petit chateaux, I would suggest holding the 2009s for a minimum of five years to experience them at anything like their best. If there were any concerns that 2009s were not built for long-term storage, this tasting should dispel that theory; these are massive, structured, profound wines that will cellar effortlessly and give their owners years of pleasure.

*All the views in this blog are mine and they are not necessarily shared by the rest of the tasters.

Domaine Bruno Clair

Domaine Bruno Clair is perhaps the grandest under the radar producer in Burgundy. Its origins lie in one of the great old Burgundian domaines, Domaine Clair-Dau. For a full account of the fascinating, if ultimately saddening, history of Domaine Clair-Dau please see Clive Coates excellent book Cote D’Or: A Celebration of the Great Wines of Burgundy. The story, in a nutshell, begins with a soldier, Joseph Clair (Bruno’s Grandfather), returning from the first world war to convalesce in Burgundy and falling in love with Marguerite Dau. Marguerite had inherited, along with her sister, eight hectares in Marsannay. Joseph took over these vineyards, replanted and began to expand the domaine. Through the 1920s and 30s he purchased land in Combe aux Moines and Estournelles St Jacques in Gevrey-Chambertin, Amoureuses in Chambolle-Musigny and Bonnes Mares. With the help of his son Bernard, he aquired more Bonnes Mares and some Clos Vougeot followed swiftly by Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers and Clos St Jacques through the 50s. They then added a venerable plot in Savigny-Les-Beaune La Dominode with vines planted in 1902 (many of the same vines are still producing for Bruno today!) and the year after almost a hectare of Chambertin Clos de Beze. In the early 70s Bernard added Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Clos du Fonteny and Vosne-Romanee Aux Champs Perdrix which is just up the slope from Romanee-Conti. Not a bad haul. It is very hard to equate the steady acquisitions of a French farmer with the recent sale of the Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin with its two hectares of vineyards for eight million Euros. How things have changed in Burgundy.

Unfortunately when Joseph died in 1971 the domaine started to fall apart. The competing interests of his children ultimately resulted in the domaine being broken up with a chunk being sold to Louis Jadot with a further chunk under a metayage agreement; Monique Bart ran her quarter of the domaine which is now run by her son Martin and around half of the domaine was ultimately inherited by Bernard’s son, Bruno. As the metayage agreements with Jadot and also with Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair recently ran out Bruno has been able to reclaim even more of the old domaine. While the family war waged, Bruno quietly developed his own domaine which he build up to nine hectares, about a third of these holdings were vineyards that had been neglected since the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century. These days Bruno has a substantial domaine under his control (circa 21 hectares) with many outstanding parcels. He still has the old vines in La Dominode, a superb parcel in the centre of Clos de Beze and a significant parcel of Bonnes Mares much of which is from the original Clair-Dau domaine. A recent bottle Of Clair-Dau Bonnes Mares 1971 showed the amazing potential of this vineyard. An astonishing wine, it showed why in the right hands Bonnes Mares is up there with the very greatest vineyards in Burgundy.

Bruno is a true vigneron; knowledgeable, thoughtful and gentle. He has found a great oenologist in Philippe Brun and between them they combine a respect for tradition and deep understanding of the vineyards with openness to new techniques and a drive to improve. They quietly turn out a range of wines exceptional for their quality and breadth. As attentive to the Marsannays as they are to Bonnes Mares and Clos de Beze, the range at Bruno Clair is totally reliable, consistent and ageworthy. They also offer incredibly good value, especially in Marsannay and Savigny; whilst at the same time making Clos de Beze and Clos St Jacques which are on level with the very best wines of these two great vineyards. Bruno is known as an excellent viticulturalist. He is the kind of winemaker that other winemakers hold in high esteem. During a recent lunch, Sylvain Pitiot of Clos de Tart made the point to our buyer Giles that he thought that Bruno is one of the best vine-growers in Burgundy. He is similarly respected by the critics. Clive Coates and Jasper Morris both show great admiration for the domaine in their excellent tomes and Allen Meadows offers a perfect summary. He writes that “the wines demand involvement from those who drink them”. We feel that they enormously reward that involvement and are very proud to represent Bruno. We just don’t shout about him enough!

By Martin Buchanan

Alsace 2011 - Vintage Report

When searching for a word to sum up their 2011 wines Catherine Faller came up with 'seamless' - a word that very elegantly encapsulates much that is great about these new releases. Coming from the somewhat back to front 2011 vintage they could, at various times in the season, have turned out very differently. As it happens, the Weinbach style, always one of the most elegant in all Alsace, sits extremely well with the vintage vagaries that 2011 produced. From Sylvaner to Gewurztraminer, this set of wines should be both an utter joy to taste when young, and easily capable of medium to long term cellaring.

Unlike further south in Burgundy, the Faller's saw their yields back up at normal levels in 2011. An extremely dry spring, following on from one of the driest winters on record, led to a bud break three weeks ahead of usual. With a hydric deficit looming, mother nature responded with three refreshingly wet months in June July and August, before the barometer changed once again signalling the arrival of clear skies and warm, fine Indian summer-esque weather through September and October. These final warm dry conditions didn't bring about much in the way of botrytis, but what little that did occur was exceptionally clear and clean.

Harvest started on the 16th September with the early ripening Pinot Auxerrois (as found in the Pinot Blanc Reserve) and finished under clear skies approximately one month later with the final plots of the original Grand Cru Schlossberg.

Seamless really is a very fine word for this range.  With acidity levels above 2009 but below 2010, there is a delicacy, freshness of structure and sense of harmony to these wines that will no doubt make them incredibly easy to enjoy.