Thursday, 4 February 2010
Loire unveils 2009
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying DirectorWednesday, 3 February 2010
Off to a flyer...
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
Monday, 1 February 2010
The Burghound sniffs out the best of 2008 Burgundy
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer`At their best, the ‘08s Côte de Nuits reds are excellent wines with vibrant acidities that speak clearly and eloquently of their underlying terroirs. They are refreshing, energetic, balanced, fresh, intense, pure and racy middle weight wines that generally carry low alcoholic levels and display ample amounts of those ineffable qualities of tension and presence. In short, they’re classic burgundies of delicacy, finesse and grace. Moreover, they should prove to be worthy cellar candidates for aging over the medium-term`.
He does recommend caution too. He actually thinks that 2008 is less consistent than 2007, but that the best from 2008 far surpass anything 2007 can offer. As for the `Sweet Spot` and `Don’t Miss` selections; please find a list below:
`Sweet Spot`
2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Charmes” 1er Barthod-Noëllat (90-92)
2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Cras” 1er Barthod-Noëllat (91-93)
2008 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Fuées” 1er Barthod-Noëllat (91-93)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Cazetiers” 1er Clair, Bruno (90-92)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos St. Jacques” 1er Clair, Bruno (91-93)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” 1er Drouhin-Laroze (89-92)
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin “Petite Chapelle” 1er Clair, Bruno (89-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Boudots” 1er Grivot, Jean (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles” 1er Chevillon, Robert (91-94)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Chaignots” 1er Chevillon, Robert (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cras” 1er Liger-Belair (91-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er Robert Chevillon (92-94)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges” 1er Gouges, Henri (91-94)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Murgers” 1er Cathiard, Sylvain (90-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Perrières” 1er Chevillon, Robert (91-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Pruliers” 1er Chevillon, Robert (91-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Pruliers” 1er Gouges, Henri (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Aux Thorey” 1er Cathiard, Sylvain (90-92)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains” 1er Robert Chevillon (92-93)
2008 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains” 1er Gouges, Henri (91-93)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Beaux-Monts” 1er Grivot, Jean (90-92)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Beaux-Monts” 1er Tremblay, Cécile (89-92)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Brûlées” 1er Grivot, Jean (91-93)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts” 1er Cathiard, Sylvain (91-94)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Suchots” 1er Grivot, Jean (91-93)
`Don’t Miss`
2008 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Clair, Bruno (92-94)
2008 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Drouhin-Laroze (91-94)
2008 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Clair, Bruno (92-94)
2008 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Drouhin-Laroze (92-94)
2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru Clos de Tart (91-94)
2008 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Eugénie (92-95)
2008 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Grivot, Jean (92-94)
2008 Echézeaux Grand Cru Eugénie (91-94)
2008 Echézeaux Grand Cru Grivot, Jean (92-94)
2008 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru Eugénie (92-94)
2008 Musigny Grand Cru Drouhin-Laroze (92-95)
2008 Richebourg Grand Cru Grivot, Jean (93-95)
2008 Richebourg Grand Cru Méo-Camuzet (93-96)
2008 La Romanée Comte Liger-Belair (93-96)
2008 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Cathiard, Sylvain (92-95)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Les Brûlées” 1er Méo-Camuzet (92-94)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Cros Parantoux” 1er Méo-Camuzet (92-95)
2008 Vosne-Romanée “Reignots” 1er Comte Liger-Belair (91-94)
Thursday, 28 January 2010
The Southwold Tasting - Day 2 PM
Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman
Having tasted the best the left bank had to offer before lunch, it was the turn of the most celebrated names from Pomerol and St Emilion in the afternoon. The top eight wines all excelled. By a short head Ch Angelus (19/20) was my highest marked wine; it was not included in the earlier St Emilion flights, so this was its first outing. The ripe cabernet franc aromas seduced the taster with succulent yet aromatic wild fruits, silky texture and beautifully defined tannins. Ch Petrus had darker rich fruit and sweet oak aromas, enormous tannic structure, and great promise. Le Pin showed luscious, polished sweetness and the beautiful gravelly minerality contrasted the classy dark fruits and fabulous length of flavours. The terroir of Ausone really comes through in this 2006; exquisite harmony, cool, classy, silky textured, it possesses tremendous potential. Both L'Eglise Clinet and Vieux Chateaux Certan both scored 18/20 only half a mark behind the runners up, more perhaps because of their density and vast tannic structure, however, there is delicious underlying fruit.Two flights of Margaux followed and were of a consistently high standard - all without fail having ripeness, which was not the always the case with the 2005s. Ch Palmer, which performed so well amongst the 1st growths was less expressive in the appellation flight; tight, firm, and brooding. Pavillon Rouge showed its pedigree; intense and all on finesse. Giscours; explosive ripe fruits and broad shoulders. Kirwan; big structure and plenty of substance. There were also impressive ‘06s from Malescot St Exupery, Lascombes and Rauzan Segla.
Wednesday, 27 January 2010
The Southwold Tasting - Day 2
Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman
Day two started at the northern end of the Medoc with the St Estephes. This flight did not include Cos d'Estournel, which was grouped with the `Firsts` and `Super Seconds`. It did however include Sociando Mallet (situated just north of the appellation); a beautifully balanced, natural wine, whose gravel terroir spoke through its silky texture and dark, sweet, fresh fruit core. Les Ormes de Pez, however, had just as much potential and pipped Sociando and Phelan Segur by half a point. It had a wonderful vibrant purple colour, layers of classic blackcurrant fruit and polished fine tannins. The Phelan Segur was beautifully crafted, with exquisite, bitter sweet fruit character and splendid length of flavour.A flight of mixed Pauillac and St Julien followed including some second wines. This was a high quality field and gave a first sight of just how good these 2006 left bank wines are. Reserve de la Comtesse - aromas of cedar wood, tobacco leaf and blackberry were truly seductive; also confirmed on a classy palate. Haut Bages Liberal was another brilliant wine in a three way tie for first place in this flight. Bright purple in colour, wonderful dark, pure fruit that can only come from deep gravel soil; it is backward but has great potential. I have observed the progress of Ch Gloria since the 2004 vintage when it came good along with its stable mate Ch St Pierre. Stacked with clean, classy, juicy fruit, it becomes altogether more serious and structured on the palate, it will age gracefully.
The Pauillac flight that followed was truly consistent in quality, no dogs amongst the ten examples here. Dense, sweet, blackcurrant fruit, well defined tannins and structure could be found amongst the majority including: Duhart-Milon, Petit-Mouton and Clerc-Milon. Pontet Canet and Grand Puy Lacoste demonstrated even more depth and length. Les Forts de Latour and Pichon Baron were joint runners up. The Forts was a stylish, mineral effort, which delighted with an abundance of dark berry fruits. The Pichon Baron’s fruit was a little more confected; sweet briar, cigar leaf and explosive, ripe fruit tannins. Top of the flight was Pichon Lalande. It started firm with beautifully integrated oak and sensual blackcurrant fruits, and only slowly exposed its true glory after ten minutes in the glass. Layered sweet textured yet with enduring mineral complexity and fine tannic structure.
Equally impressive was the top notch flight of St Juliens. It may be that the wines of Pomerol and St Julien were not only the most exiting but also the most homogenous communes in 2006. Ch Leoville-Las-Cases was the clear winner of the flight and when tasted with the left bank firsts and super seconds it came out in joint first place with Mouton Rothschild and Haut Brion. It is a statuesque wine; rich yet firm, ripe yet complex, sumptuous yet persistent. Also very good was a stylish Branaire and an opulent Leoville Poyferre; these two just out scored more superb efforts from Leoville Barton and Ducru Beaucaillou and the fast improving St Pierre.
A ten wine flight of first growths and super seconds followed. They demonstrated just how successful the top Crus Classes were in 2006.
Ch Cos d 'Estournel 17/20 - Impressive structure but I considered this to be somewhat forced and the new oak not yet integrated. Needs time.
Ch Margaux 18/20 - All on finesse and elegance, beautifully crafted with silky tannins.
Ch Pichon Lalande 18/20 - As above, and in this flight even more depth of fruit.
Ch Palmer 18.5/20 - Ethereal, seductive sweet berry fruit aromas, powerful, layered fruit yet stylish persistent finish.
Ch Latour 18.5/20 - Dark and brooding, cedar, tobacco, sweet blackcurrant, sumptuous tannins.
La Mission Haut Brion 18.5/20 - Cigar leaf, chocolate, gravel, serious intensity, great length of flavour. Ranked very highly by all tasters.
Mouton Rothschild 19/20 – Sweet, succulent blackcurrant, massive concentration of fruit, big bold tannic structure.
Haut Brion 19/20 – Rich, ripe, dark forest fruits, sweet tobacco, layers of luscious yet stylish fruit. Great length and complexity.
Leoville Las Cases 19/20 - Tasted as above.
Look out for a special `Best of Bordeaux 2006` offer in the next few days.
Monday, 25 January 2010
The Southwold Tasting – Day 1
Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and Chairman
This year was the turn of the 2006 vintage. As usual samples were sourced direct from the Chateaux and tasted blind in commune sequence.The general impression is that there are some serious wines from both left and right banks. Comparing prices with other vintages, in particular 2005, makes these somewhat forgotten 2006s look really interesting buys. Selection, however, is vitally important in a vintage that sorts the men from the boys.
First up was a flight of Medocs and Listrac/Moulis, including classed growths. The outstanding wine was Chateau Cantemerle, showing ripeness, depth of fruit and fine Bordeaux structure. Chateau Chasse Spleen and Tour Carnet are also worth seeking out for their balance and easy drinking style. Disappointments included Chateau La Lagune.
Several flights of St Emilions followed. The quality from this Appellation was as mixed as the multiple terroirs found in this commune. The most common faults being black coloured, over extracted wines with dry, hard, tannic structures. There were however a few exceptions that showed balance, natural ripe sweet fruit and fine tannins: Joanne Becot, Franc Mayne, L'Hermitage and amongst the premier Crus Classe: Beausejour Duffau, Canon La Gaffeliere, Chapelle d'Ausone and Pavie Macquin. The grand St Emilions were tasted with the elite Pomerols in a majestic right-bank shoot out on day two.
Next came two flights of Pomerol. Quality here is top notch and the wines are consistently ripe, deep of fruit and possess sweet tannic structures. The Moueix properties were uniformly delicious; Chateau La Fleur Petrus, Hosanna and Trotanoy were firing on all cylinders. However, Vieux Chateau Certan won by a short head; backward, brooding, with a wonderfully complex, dark, sweet fruit core. Evangile may well be the sleeper of the appellation, it appeared a touch closed but it reveals hints of greatness – purity, finesse and intensity.
http://www.justerinis.com/Cantemerle/Chateau_Cantemerle_5eme_Cru_Classe_Haut_Medoc_2006/7644/7334/WineDetails.aspx
Friday, 22 January 2010
2008s from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
Posted by Giles Burke-Gaffney, Buying Director
Monday, 18 January 2010
Catherine Faller discusses the 2008 vintage for Domaine Weinbach
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerFriday, 15 January 2010
Will it be a Chinese artist?
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux BuyerFor interested parties, we have just received our 4th tranche allocation at more than double the price of our 1st release!
http://www.justerinis.com/Mouton_Rothschild/Chateau_Mouton_Rothschild_1er_Cru_Classe_Pauillac_2008/10694/0/WineDetails.aspx
Wednesday, 13 January 2010
Roy Richards on Burgundy 2008
Posted by Julian Campbell, BuyerMonday, 11 January 2010
Chairman's Message
Posted by Hew Blair, Buying Director and ChairmanIt is unquestionably the case that this time last year we looked towards 2009 through an uncertain lens. The previous six months had proven to be tumultuous and there was no strong indication of how the market would proceed.
Our deep rooted belief in the merits of quality domaine bottled Burgundy was again shown to be shared by our customers, as was seen by the strength of the Burgundy 07 Primeur campaign launched last January.
The broking market also seemed to find its footing that month; we sold more Bordeaux in the first week of January than we did in the whole preceding month of December.
The general fine wine market continued to cautiously grow over the following months, and we were pleased to note that Justerini & Brooks grew market share, with sizeable and active private customers as well as top hotels and restaurants coming to us, driven perhaps by stability and our depth of stock.
It is also worth noting our customers' increasing interest in wines outside the classic French regions. We are seeing continued interest in top Spanish wines and in German Riesling, but it is in top Piemontese wines that we have seen the most dramatic rise. Despite 2008 being a record year for us in terms of Italian sales, this grew further through 2009.
Early 2010 will see us launch our new website; both the culmination of a two year project and an effective way to take Justerini & Brooks to even more like-minded customers. We are already operating in 23 countries.
Many of you have already discovered our Buyers' blog. My buying team are now using this to give you day by day reports as they taste new wines and new vintages in their continuous search for the best.
And there is good news for customers who store their wines with us through Cellarers (Wines) Ltd. The current storage rate of £11 per year inclusive of vat for a case will remain frozen come the start of the next storage year (1st July 2010), despite the rising costs of warehousing and insurance. However, delivery charges to mainland Great Britain will rise from £15 inclusive of vat to £15 exclusive of vat - a modest increase to cover costs. Purchases destined for mainland Great Britain not coming from Cellarers and over the value of £250 will continue to be exempt of delivery charge. Deliveries elsewhere will continue to be charged at the prevailing rate.
There is much for us to look forward to over the coming 12 months. We are genuinely impressed by the quality of the 2008 Burgundies which we are about to launch . The rest of the coming year will be taken up with the release of the 2009 vintage from Bordeaux, Germany and the Rhone, and exciting releases from Champagne, Italy and Spain. To date I have tasted several superb 2009 Rhones, and a couple of days ago, whilst in a very snowy Bordeaux, I tasted a barrel sample of Cos d'Estournel 2009 which was deeply impressive. The style of 2009, if anything can be drawn from such a small selection, is deep concentration and texture combined with a fabulous fruit content. Alcohols are high, but certainly from the wines I have tasted they are exquisitely balanced by acidity. Our Buyers' blog will update you with our discoveries as they come.
In the meantime I wish you all a very happy New Year.
Hew Blair
Chairman, Justerini & Brooks
Friday, 8 January 2010
Cos d'Estournel 2009 - "Monumental"
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
"Monumental" was the word Hew put forward when asked to describe it in a single word.
When asked for more he said, "Well, to look at it, you might think you were looking at a young vintage port such is the depth and intensity of its colour and its sheer viscosity. It has an alcohol level of 14.2%, not in itself that usual for Cos given the high merlot content. It has a quite extraordinary tannin level of over 100 (versus ordinary levels of roughly 60), yet a texture that is ripe and silky. It has a massive concentration, glorious acidity and quite beautiful fruit. We are talking comparisons with 29 and 47. A month spent in new oak was unnoticable, and what we tasted was the final assemblage with press wine"
One wonders what would have been surmised had they had the chance to taste more than just Cos. Certainly it would seem 2009 might have highs on a par with 2005, perhaps even higher. Whether or not it has the consistency, endowed as it is with such extreme raw materials, remains to be seen.
Monday, 4 January 2010
Happy New Year
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
The J&B blog is back in business after the `holiday season`. Firstly, we’d like to wish all our readers a very happy New Year and secondly, a quick heads-up... our January bin end offer will be released tomorrow; so keep your eyes peeled for all those wonderful bargains...It’s also worth mentioning our Burgundy 2008 tasting and offer. If you’ve been following Giles’ and Hew’s adventures in the Cote d’Or on our blog and want to taste/buy for yourself, we go-live next week.
Tuesday, 22 December 2009
Closed for Christmas
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
Quelle surprise
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
The 2009 `Liv-ex Fine Wine Power 100` poll is out, and no surprises for the winner, Chateau Lafite Rothschild. The only shock is that Lafite was only in sixth spot last year...The results are compiled by the Liv-ex boffins, who analyse data including the volume of trades on the exchange, the average Parker scores, average prices, annual performance and a weighted production (average price multiplied by the total production).
There are some fascinating results. Lafite accounts for a staggering 23% of business on the exchange, with the other first growths taking the next four places. Taylors, way down in 48th position has the highest average Parker score (97.2 points!). Petrus, DRC and Le Pin have the highest average prices, all exceeding 10K per case. Price performance is probably the most important statistic used, and it is Carruades de Lafite, not Lafite that leads the way (up 55%), followed by Duhart (33%) and completing a 1-2-3 for Domaines Barons de Rothschild, the Grand Vin, Lafite (up 26%). The only other contender in this category is Beychevelle, with a very respectable 23% rise.
For the full report, please follow the link below.
http://liv-ex.typepad.com/.a/6a00e55150c0be8834012876528b9f970c-popup
Thursday, 17 December 2009
Alsace 2009 : An in depth harvest report from Domaine Weinbach
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
On his recent visit, Giles kindly inquired about our 2009 harvest at Domaine Weinbach and I am happy to share our impressions with you.The potential of the new vintage is very high across our range of terroirs and grape varieties, with very healthy, beautifully ripe grapes and extremely pure aromas. The second half of August was hot and September was warm, both contributing to excellent maturities after the very mild weather conditions we had in April and May and despite a very damp July. August weather brought fears that total acidities would be too low but they are equivalent in most cases to the ones we experienced in 2005 and 2007 and the impression derived from the tastings is very fine. The maturities are optimal, both in sugar richness and in taste (phenolic) knowing that the grape skins were thicker than usual because of the lack of rain at the end of the season. In addition to their richness, the wines show freshness, juiciness and beautiful aromatic profiles. Because of the thick skins and dry conditions, botrytis (noble rot) was scarce and took time to develop in the most favorable terroirs. In return, it stayed incredibly pure and fresh. Due to its small proportion, ” tries ” (selections) needed to be extremely severe to produce tiny volumes of very high quality Sélections de Grains Nobles. Beautiful Vendanges Tardives, in of course much lesser quantities than 2005, were harvested showing great elegance of constitution.
The weather during harvest was a dream. We started on September 14 with our Pinot Noir: incredible colour, fruit and richness. We then paused for 10 days before picking Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Sylvaner. On September 29, we harvested our first Riesling and Gewurztraminer (both Cuvée Théo). This started the “heart” of our harvest and until October 7, we picked all our remaining Pinot Gris (including Vendanges Tardives, Sélections de Grains Nobles and Quintessence de Grains Nobles), all our Rieslings (including a beautiful Sélection de Grains Nobles in the Schlossberg) except a plot in the Altenbourg and all our Gewurztraminer except Altenbourg, Grands Crus Furstentum and Mambourg. The night of October 7 saw the first (moderate: 7 mm) rain in almost two months. The temperatures all along harvest had stayed between 18°C and 27°C with not even a hint of morning dew which can sometimes have the same "diluting" effect as light rain. Then, a week and just a couple of more mm rain later, on October 14 and 15, Gewurztraminer Altenbourg (“regular” as well as Vendanges Tardives Trie Spéciale and Quintessence de Grains Nobles), Gewurztraminer Furstentum regular and Vendanges Tardives. On October 20, a rich Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg Vendanges Tardives and to conclude on October 28, a beautiful first Riesling Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives.
To conclude I would like to say that we have been blessed with a series of excellent vintages: our brand new 2009 but also 2007 and 2008.
Laurence Faller,
Wednesday, 9 December 2009
J&B takes to the airwaves
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
We always said he had a perfect face for radio, and last night our very own Julian Campbell was the voice of authority, fount of all knowledge and general know it all on the Chris Evans Drive Time Show. Wednesday, 2 December 2009
Movers and Sheikhers
Posted by Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux Buyer
The big question is - how will major economies respond to the Dubai crisis? Hopefully this won’t be the double-dip we all fear, but if it is, bargain-hunters will probably be disappointed; it’s unlikely that there will be a glut of distressed sellers emerging from the Middle East!
Familia Cassone Malbec moves to screwcaps
Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer